Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

OK. I don't want to beat this to death but, I need help. I have a trip planned the end of next week and until a week ago I never heard of slipped fly wheels! The indy shop (well recommended) that resealed my primary says he is almost positive that I have slipped fly wheels due to the motor vibration at idle. He checked front motor mount etc. but all is OK there. Today I called him back to see if he could check it out to tell me for sure this is the issue but the Republic of Texas Rally in Galveston is going on and he is out of pocket until Tuesday. One of his helpers tells me they have to pull the cam cover, trans cover and top end to check to see if the fly wheels have slipped. I don't know if he knows what he is talking about or not. I am pretty mechanically inclined having earned my living years ago as an auto mechanic and have done a lot of work on my bikes but never to this extent. Can any one tell me how slipped fly wheels can be diagnosed? Does the whole engine have to be torn down?

Appreciate any help!

Sunman

Cam cover, and cam plate, which would require the pushrods/upper rocker covers to be pulled, needing the tank to be juggled around on the frame, or removed altogather, then a dial or test indicator to be mounted to witness/record(we record this here on each clients work order) the pinion shaft movement.
Fueling manufactures a part # 9015 that actually bolts to the face of the cam chest area with 2 thumb screws, and makes it a snap to check.
If that is good, nothing saying that the sprocket shaft's C/L is OK, and by rights, should also be checked.
Scott

[Sunman48]

He doesn't know what he's talking about.  Cam cover yes, but not the trans cover, and not the top end.

Jim

Thank Jim. So how can it be checked?

Sunman

[Eqcons]

Thank Jim. So how can it be checked?

Sunman

Pretty much as Scott says - cam cover and cam support plate then a dial guage on the end of the crank. No need to disturb the top end though - bolt cutters to cut the pushrods, then fit adjustable pushrods when you're done.

Jim

[Sunman48]

Pretty much as Scott says - cam cover and cam support plate then a dial guage on the end of the crank. No need to disturb the top end though - bolt cutters to cut the pushrods, then fit adjustable pushrods when you're done.

Jim

Thanks again Jim. That is what I thought but I was getting a different story from the shop. I thought it could be checked by pulling the cam cover and cam plate but wasn't sure. I have been into the cams myself when I replaced the cam chain tensioners and at that time cut the push rods and replaced with adjustable push rods. I recently opended up the cam case again to check the tensioners. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary dial indicator or experience to check the run out.

Thanks,

Sunman

[Eqcons]

Thanks again Jim. That is what I thought but I was getting a different story from the shop. I thought it could be checked by pulling the cam cover and cam plate but wasn't sure. I have been into the cams myself when I replaced the cam chain tensioners and at that time cut the push rods and replaced with adjustable push rods. I recently opended up the cam case again to check the tensioners. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary dial indicator or experience to check the run out.

Thanks,

Sunman

Nice and easy then if you've already got adjustable pushrods.  I'd imagine a dial gauge would be quite cheap in the US, and it's just a matter of rigging something up to hold it in position on the end of the crank, and turning the back wheel in gear to make it rotate.

Jim

[Twolanerider]

Thanks again Jim. That is what I thought but I was getting a different story from the shop. I thought it could be checked by pulling the cam cover and cam plate but wasn't sure. I have been into the cams myself when I replaced the cam chain tensioners and at that time cut the push rods and replaced with adjustable push rods. I recently opended up the cam case again to check the tensioners. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary dial indicator or experience to check the run out.

Thanks,

Sunman

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust.  Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

[sadunbar]

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust.  Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

 

[Sunman48]

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust.  Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

Thanks!

Sunman

[Sunman48]

Thanks!

Sunman

[efrbc1]

Been following your saga as I have an '05 SEEG.  Mine has almost 40K.  Original front motor mount was replaced (by me) long ago with the "newer" style.  The newer motor mounts are made from a harder material and the first thing I noticed was a significant increase in vibration/motor shake at idle.  Smoothed right out as soon as bike was brought above idle.  Put up with this for waaaaay too long and finally changed to the Glide Pro mount (complete system).  Problem solved.

With 58K on yours I'm fairly certain you do not have the "original" front mount in there.  I didn't catch if this problem was ongoing or something that happened following a recent service but from what I've read, it seems like this started following transmission repair and you noted they did do something with the front motor mount.  If this is the case, that is where I would start looking.  I put gear drive cams in mine at 12K (bought the bike used with that on the clock) just to eliminate the cam chain worries.  Crank was well within spec for runout and no problems since.  The '04 - '05 SEEG 103 was (and still is) one of the best motors HD ever built.  Unless the bike has thrashed, I would find it hard to believe your crank whas slipped - and all of a sudden.  I would look elsewhere unless you have reason to focus in on the crank.

Chris

[Sunman48]

Thanks for the reply Chris. I replaced the front motor mount myself at 36,000 miles. Don't know if it is the new style or not. The motor was shaking badly at the time and when I took the old one out it was bad. Motor has been shaking (at idle) badly for some time now, way before the trans seal repairs.  and the shaking toned down with the new one installed. Shop owner suspected front motor mount but it was OK. Top motor mount assy is OK. Only thing to do now is open up the cam case and check the run out.

Sunman

[efrbc1]

Chances are you put in the "new" style motor mount - which will increase the shake at idle.  You say the shake "toned down" after replacement.  Has it gotten worse since?  Does the shake continue once you come off of idle?  I would at least try a new/different front mount before going through all the hassle of checking crank runout.  MUCH easier/cheaper and you may find your problem.

Chris

[grc]

There are three mounts, not just one in the front.  Has anyone checked the two rear mounts and the powertrain alignment?  This is a critical area on the older bikes with the single front mount, and if folks just replace a failed front mount without also checking and neutralizing the rear mounts and then checking/correcting the alignment they can find themselves with more vibration, not less.  (The rear mounts are the rubber bushings on either end of the swingarm pivot btw).  Just a thought.

Another thought is to check all the easy stuff first, like any grounding out of parts to other parts, like brake pedals to pipes, other parts to the frame, etc.  The engine tends to shake qujite noticeably at idle, so what seems like good clearance with the bike shut down may not be when the engine is shaking at idle.  Just another thought.

Jerry

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Another nearly-free option is to bolt a piece of 3"X3" steel flat stock to the engine cases, on the face of the cam chest area, and mount a magnetic-base equipped indicator to it, and then position the indicator to check pinion shaft TIR.
1 clearence hole for a 1/4" screw needs to be drilled in order to complete this magnetic base mount.
Scott

[Sunman48]

Chances are you put in the "new" style motor mount - which will increase the shake at idle.  You say the shake "toned down" after replacement.  Has it gotten worse since?  Does the shake continue once you come off of idle?  I would at least try a new/different front mount before going through all the hassle of checking crank runout.  MUCH easier/cheaper and you may find your problem.

Chris

Chris, the shop installed a new motor mount but it did not stop the shaking so they put mine back in. Still, it might be a good idea to try another one just in case.

Thanks,

Sunman