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[redbeard719]

Thanks Fish Eye,

Those are the same signal bodies that came off of the bike, or new bullets? Body looks longer and no amber lens. I'll do some looking for the brackets. Also, the handlebars, I went to the Buky website and couldn't fine the "Odyssey" bars. How did you come across these? They look great!

They're the same signals, but I added the visor trim rings with clear or smoke lenses, I can't remember specifically, but I think smoke.  They match the headlight trim ring, and also make them look longer. 

The Odyssey bars aren't listed, but if you call Juan (which I recommend), he'll be happy to help.  I first read about them on the Roadglide.org forum, as that's where Buky Bars have some deep roots - the fixed fairing bikes have more options for bars, and Buky fits the bill well.

Check out this review I posted about the bars.  I like them so much I plan to replace my Carlini bars on my Road Glide with Buky Bars.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=89334.0

[rjmorris]

I really appreciate all of the info. Looks like I'll have to give Juan a call (great review). So with your risers (2"??), you've got 18" apes?? I'm 6'1" and just wondering how that would work for me. I've just recently put Wild One 14's on my 13 CVO Ultra. Love 'em. I'll quit bugging you, for now anyway. Thanks again!

Rusty

[redbeard719]

I really appreciate all of the info. Looks like I'll have to give Juan a call (great review). So with your risers (2"??), you've got 18" apes?? I'm 6'1" and just wondering how that would work for me. I've just recently put Wild One 14's on my 13 CVO Ultra. Love 'em. I'll quit bugging you, for now anyway. Thanks again!

Rusty

Haha, no bother at all.

I had 1.5" risers originally from Wild1 (their Chubby risers), but with the Springer adapter plate that replaces the top tree and allows for regular risers, the risers mount about 3/4" back towards the tank.  With 1.5" risers, the bars would hit the tank.  I also had no luck finding a 2.5" riser anywhere, so bought the Wild1 riser extensions in 1" height. 

I ended up with 16" bars on 2.5" risers.  The extra inch is really no big deal.  I'm 5'10" and with this set up my hands are just above my shoulders.  Keep in mind, I have the Danny Grey seat too.

[rjmorris]

Hey Fish Eye,

Just spoke with the folks at Buky Bars. Got the 16" Odyssey's on the way. Was I correct in hearing from them that the clamping area is stepped down to 1"? Is that the entire width of the clamping area? Did you put a top clamp on your Wild One risers? I'm trying to get all of my ducks in a row so when they arrive, I'm ready to go. Many thanks!

Rusty

[redbeard719]

Hey Fish Eye,

Just spoke with the folks at Buky Bars. Got the 16" Odyssey's on the way. Was I correct in hearing from them that the clamping area is stepped down to 1"? Is that the entire width of the clamping area? Did you put a top clamp on your Wild One risers? I'm trying to get all of my ducks in a row so when they arrive, I'm ready to go. Many thanks!

Rusty

Well, this all depends on a couple things.  First, did you order regular bars from Juan, or did you order springer bars?  The risers on a springer are wider apart, and there is no one piece top clamp.  Regular bars, well, have a 3" riser area and with apes, a 1 piece top clamp is best.

When I bought my Springer, the previous owner had already installed one of these top plates - not sure if it is a Carlini part or not, there are others that make them too.  I've used a Carlini plate before on a different bike, and it's a top quality piece.

http://www.carlinidesign.com/Harley-Parts-Accessories/Springer-Adapter-Plates/Fat-Springer-Adapter-Plate-1-FX-Springer.html

With this plate, you can run regular risers, which allow you to run any handlebar for any bike, providing it clears the tank/console when the bars are turned.

I am also using the Wild 1 Chubby risers in 1.5" height, and the Wild 1 Chubby riser extensions, in 1" height.  You CANNOT go any lower than 2.5" on the riser height with these bars or else the bars will hit the tank when turned (assuming you run a top plate adapter like I am).

They are the Wild1 website (www.wild1inc.com).

You'll need longer riser bolts than what comes with the top clamp.  I think I used 2" socket head cap screws (allen head bolts/internal hex).  The thread pitch is 1/2-13.

You'll also need bolts for the top clamp too.  I can't recall the correct size, I think it's 5/16-18 and I used 1.25" long bolts, but I can't remember exactly.  Ace Hardware will have all your needs, and some of them actually have chrome bolts and plugs for the bolt heads.

As for the riser area of the bars, they do step to 1" diameter.  I ended up with a spare clamp that I never used from Wild1.  It's normally $60, but if you want, it's yours for $50 shipped.  Picture below.

Here are a few pictures of the riser/plate area on the bike.  Hope this helps.

Of course, if you ordered springer bars, then all that is a moot point!

Let me know if you need cable lengths, I have that information as well.







Here is the Wild1 Top Clamp I have.  It's brand new, in the package.

[rjmorris]

Great info fish eye! Thanks for all of the insights, tips, and photos. You've given me a lot more to think about!

Rusty

[Twism_23]

Great thread, I had a question regarding the coil relocation you did. Where did you route the extended wire to the new location? Did you have to remove the tank? Thanks a lot!

[redbeard719]

Great thread, I had a question regarding the coil relocation you did. Where did you route the extended wire to the new location? Did you have to remove the tank? Thanks a lot!

I did have the tank off, partly for the handlebar swap and partly for the coil relocation.  It's not a terrible process removing the tank, just not always fun getting all the gas out to avoid the mess when removing the crossover tube.

My bike already had the braided stainless crossover line, but if you have the stock rubber one, it's even easier.  Run the gas as low as possible, attach two cheapy vise grips on the rubber line to pinch it, and cut the center between the vise grips.  A new hose isn't expensive, or you can install the braided one; they're about $30.

As for the coil wiring, the wires were long enough, but I had to snip a few zips ties in front of the battery to get the length.  I ran it with the other wires in the wire trough on the spine of the frame, and popped it out with the injector wires.

Having the tank off really makes it easier though.

[Twism_23]

Thanks Fisheye, installed mine yesterday. Took the tank off and all went fine. I question, I am thinking of adding the chrome rocker horn like you did. Did you make you own extension wires for the horn or did you use DK's? Changing my speedometer today, cams and exhaust next week. These long winters in Canada are costing me a lot of money. Too much time to work on the bike!
Thanks in advance for your answer.

[redbeard719]

Thanks Fisheye, installed mine yesterday. Took the tank off and all went fine. I question, I am thinking of adding the chrome rocker horn like you did. Did you make you own extension wires for the horn or did you use DK's? Changing my speedometer today, cams and exhaust next week. These long winters in Canada are costing me a lot of money. Too much time to work on the bike!
Thanks in advance for your answer.

Good call removing the tank.  With what you've done, it's almost necessary to do it right.

As for the horn, it's just two wires.  I had some extra wire left over from one of my ape hanger projects, so I did extend the wiring, and then placed those two wires into a larger piece of heat shrink.  It keeps to clean and looks factory.  Best of all, I really like the look of the coil in the horn's place and that stupid fake seat post removed so you can see the oil tank and the rear cylinder. 

As for the connections to the horn itself, they're just plain old female spade connectors.  Nothing fancy.