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[bmcgc]

So Im going to try here.

Everyone is mainly concerned about that coveted "Harley Sound".

Im concerned with matching the flow rate of all the components.

I found info telling me a stage 1 Big Sucker flows 200 cfm, the 103 heads flow 225 cfm, but no info on what the intake manifold and exhaust system flow.

Am I wasting money by adding a Big Sucker and tuning and keeping my oem 2006 exhaust?

[ultrarider123]

bmc, you may want to start a new post asking this question (if you haven't already).  I would have to see what your muffler looks like from the 2006 to make any kind of guess BUT knowing that things changed drastically on the touring bikes in 2009, I would say your muffler/exhaust isn't the same style as what is discussed here...

[NH Bulldog]

The short answer to your question:  Yes, it is a waste of money.

The longer answer:  In the case of this thread, we are letting the same amount of air IN, while letting air flow more freely OUT.  However, if you do the opposite and let more air IN, without allowing for a way to let all the extra air OUT, you are wasting your money.  Picture a funnel in your mind.  Pour a lot of water in the big end (modified intake/stock exhaust) and it backs up because water is flowing out through a more restrictive opening.  Now flow water through the small end (stock intake/modified exhaust) and water flows much more freely with less restriction, but you can't get very much water in there in the first place.  Best solution is to modify both intake and exhaust at the same time, and then load a tune (program) designed for that configuration.  If you absolutely have to do one before the other, do the exhaust before the intake.  

[FLY-DOG]

I'd like to do this mod but still can't tell from the photos and description exactly where you are making the cut?

[ultrarider123]

If you look at the pictures and inside the rear of your mufflers, you will see this plug.  The best way to make the cut in the correct place is to get your dremel ready, insert it into the rear end of the muffler and grind a bit.  Remove the dremel and look inside.  You should have made a grind point just inside the plug (about 1/8" or better).  If you look at the plug installed and plug removed pictures (specially the plug when it's removed), you should be able to tell what you are removing on your bike.  PM me if you need to discuss in more detail.  It's hard to describe but once you realize what you are removing, it's pretty simple from there on out...

[onthebreak]

Does anybody know what the baffle plug looks like on the 2012 softail conf. flstse3 and what you can do to remove it? Thanks!

[ultrarider123]

Does anybody know what the baffle plug looks like on the 2012 softail conf. flstse3 and what you can do to remove it? Thanks!

Saw one in the parking lot at SMHD this past weekend but had already replaced the stock system.  I'll research and see what I can come up with.

[ultrarider123]

An update on the 2013 SE touring bikes (SERG, SEUC and SERK).  Looks like the MOCO has gotten smarter as the exhaust outlet pipe is about 2" longer on the 2013's than the earlier bikes (2012 back).  However, the plug is still the same design so while the principle of the plug removal is the same, access is a bit harder on the 2013's.  The solution is using a longer shaft for the dremel but have not found one that long as of yet.  I'm researching and will let you know.

[cvoscoot]

Just finished this mod.Wow!! what a difference it made.I was fixing to spend big money on new exhaust to get better sound but not now. I am very happy with this new sound.Thanks for the post!

[ultrarider123]

Glad to hear it.   it really is amazing how much difference it makes and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Plus, if you don't like it and wanted even more sound, THEN you can spend the money. So far all the ones I've done have stopped with this. Thanks for the kind words and glad I could help

[ultrarider123]

An update on the 2013 SE touring bikes (SERG, SEUC and SERK).  Looks like the MOCO has gotten smarter as the exhaust outlet pipe is about 2" longer on the 2013's than the earlier bikes (2012 back).  However, the plug is still the same design so while the principle of the plug removal is the same, access is a bit harder on the 2013's.  The solution is using a longer shaft for the dremel but have not found one that long as of yet.  I'm researching and will let you know.

Quoting myself here but a follow-up to the above.  Been working on a couple solutions.  The solution of a longer shaft for the dremel grinding wheel will NOT work.  I tried a couple different lengths (used hardened steel same-diameter metal rods I fashioned) and there is a reason something turning 5K to 35K RPM needs a shorter shaft....yep, it wasn't pretty.  I have a request in for one of the removed 2013 SE mufflers when one of the new local owners replaces their muffler/header for one of the many other options.  But from what I have looked at in the dealership, the only way we may actually get to the plug in guestion is to remove the main pipe extention the MOCO placed restricting access to the plug on these new 2013 SE mufflers.  As soon as I get on in hand to practice on, I'll post pictures and details. 

[Fullsac Performance]

Quoting myself here but a follow-up to the above.  Been working on a couple solutions.  The solution of a longer shaft for the dremel grinding wheel will NOT work.  I tried a couple different lengths (used hardened steel same-diameter metal rods I fashioned) and there is a reason something turning 5K to 35K RPM needs a shorter shaft....yep, it wasn't pretty.  I have a request in for one of the removed 2013 SE mufflers when one of the new local owners replaces their muffler/header for one of the many other options.  But from what I have looked at in the dealership, the only way we may actually get to the plug in guestion is to remove the main pipe extention the MOCO placed restricting access to the plug on these new 2013 SE mufflers.  As soon as I get on in hand to practice on, I'll post pictures and details.  

No luck huh? Darn it, darn it darn it!  

SG

[ultrarider123]

No luck huh? Darn it, darn it darn it! 
SG

That's funny right there....

Yep, looks like if I can't find a solution for this, folks may have to spend money on one of 'dem hexaust sistums that ya sell....

Steve, I will be the first to tell you that the Fullsac way is the best way to go if you want to replace the header and innerds of the stock SE muffler.  You build a great system...I'm just cheap and want to spend as little as possible.  Have a great day...

[Fullsac Performance]

That's funny right there....

Yep, looks like if I can't find a solution for this, folks may have to spend money on one of 'dem hexaust sistums that ya sell....

Steve, I will be the first to tell you that the Fullsac way is the best way to go if you want to replace the header and innerds of the stock SE muffler.  You build a great system...I'm just cheap and want to spend as little as possible.  Have a great day...

Thanks Ultra!

SG

[Jswerve]

Huge shout out to the OP and everyone involved in this thread. I was surfing for info on slipons and headpipes trying to make that hard decision we all face. Which sound? What pipe can I find with the sound and performance I want? I stumbled upon this and my wife is at work, dremel and scoot were just chillin in the garage so I thought, hey! Why not give this a try before you pull the trigger on any aftermarket parts? So I ran to the parts store and grabbed a 5 pack of reinforced dremel disks and probably spent about 60-90 mins of total labor relatively painless once I figured out a method to the madness. So then the moment of truth, starting the scoot. You know what? Pretty damn impressed, quite a significant change!!! I am going to let it marinate awhile. Maybe I upgrade, maybe I don't but it's the best damn 5 dollar upgrade I have ever done!