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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: 1roadking on March 09, 2020, 09:22:29 PM
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My clutch is periodically slipping after riding for a few hours in 5th and 6th gear rolling throttle on at 3000 to 3500 RPM. I had the clutch pulled and checked and the shop said the plates looked good and spec’d out properly. I am making about 125 square and it seems to be slipping under load at max TQ. The shop that checked it and 1 other shop said the stock clutch should take those numbers with no issues. Any ideas? Thanks for the help.
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I've been told that 125 is about maxing out the stock clutch spring, more is evidently needed, also, IMO, synthetics in the primary tend to cause a bit of a glazing which in turn cause slipping. I went back to an intended use, non-synthetic oil, no more issue.
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I have noticed mine is holding better since switching from syn to formula plus since going 117. I think the variable assist will be my next purchase as I have noticed flaring between gear changes at WOT.
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Looks like you have a 16 CVO Streetglide, which would have the Slip and assist clutch. You are right at max power the factory clutch will handle, so with any wear it will start to slip or heat will also help it start rot slip.
One of the best solutions on the market is the AIM VP SDR series clutch. As RPM goes up it clamps harder. You would want the unit with the High Performance spring kit. It will handle 160 torque. https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/vp-sdr (https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/vp-sdr)
I have been running this on my built 13 CVO King for many years, no issue at all. I'm 138.5 HP and 140 torque.
Very easy to install, 30 minutes tops if you are slow and take your time.
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I would try and go with the heavier clutch spring. There is a heavier SE spring available. Try this before investing in a new clutch
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Looks like you have a 16 CVO Streetglide, which would have the Slip and assist clutch. You are right at max power the factory clutch will handle, so with any wear it will start to slip or heat will also help it start rot slip.
One of the best solutions on the market is the AIM VP SDR series clutch. As RPM goes up it clamps harder. You would want the unit with the High Performance spring kit. It will handle 160 torque. https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/vp-sdr (https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/vp-sdr)
I have been running this on my built 13 CVO King for many years, no issue at all. I'm 138.5 HP and 140 torque.
Very easy to install, 30 minutes tops if you are slow and take your time.
I'd use the same VP SDR kit with the performance spring kit and all my problems with clutch slip on my CVO 2014 King with the 117-Kit are gone 8)
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As others have said....my vote would be for at least a stronger set of springs and possibly a non Syn oil if a new performance clutch is not in the budget
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I’m good with doing whatever is required to eliminate the problem. The shop is recommending new clutch plates and a heavy duty spring for $350 installed. They are telling me that with this set up they have reliably run 150 square with 0 issues. Does this sound right? I’m not opposed to buying AIM VDP if that is what it’s going to take. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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I’m good with doing whatever is required to eliminate the problem. The shop is recommending new clutch plates and a heavy duty spring for $350 installed. They are telling me that with this set up they have reliably run 150 square with 0 issues. Does this sound right? I’m not opposed to buying AIM VDP if that is what it’s going to take. Thanks for all the help everyone.
I would suggest the AIM route. I originally went just the heavy spring route and still had slippage at max torque/max load. Added the AIM and have since went back to the lighter spring with still no issues
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I’m good with doing whatever is required to eliminate the problem. The shop is recommending new clutch plates and a heavy duty spring for $350 installed. They are telling me that with this set up they have reliably run 150 square with 0 issues. Does this sound right? I’m not opposed to buying AIM VDP if that is what it’s going to take. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Are you satisfied with the current clutch lever effort and engagement point? If not, a new heavier spring will only make the effort worse and won't fix the engagement point issue. There are other solutions available, it all depends on exactly what you want as an end result. The AIM system increases clamping pressure as rpm rises, which will help with higher rpm slippage but it also increases clutch lever effort at higher rpm. You can install an aftermarket actuator (slave cylinder) that's designed to lower lever effort along with either a heavier spring or something like the AIM pressure plate. And of course there are complete clutch replacements by companies like Barnett.
If you aren't worried about lever effort, the heavier spring is the least expensive option. If your clutch has been slipping for any significant amount of time, the plates may be heat damaged and worn, so it makes sense to change them regardless of what other option you choose.
Jerry
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We are starting to find out that with some of the bigger power M8 builds no one seems to have a cutch that will hold big torque down low in the RPM. A good friends 126 M8 which has lots of torque is having slight slip around 2500 rpm with, but thats over 130 torque. Above 3K and over 150 torque its holding. This is with the AIM and heavier springs.
On my build we decided to try the Recluse torque drive to see if that would fix the issue. Riding the bike you can not feel the slip at all. On the dyno slip is obvious at 3000 rpm and a little over 150 torque. Slip is gone by 3250 and no slip above 160 torque.
Recluse specifically states to not use strong springs in the instructions in several places. I do like clutch pull is very similar to stock.
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I’m running a Twin Cam 117 with about 125/130 Square. It does make really strong TQ starting at about 2500 RPM and it slips in 5/6 at about there up to about 3500 to 4000 RPM.
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The Bandit clutch won’t slip at low or high RPMs. Low lever effort as well.
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Been using a Rekluse torqDrive for 3 years with no issues. 130/135 and she gets run hard regularly. Back tire is averaging 5k. At least I don't have to worry about cupping anymore. ;D
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Ok, opted for the next heavier clutch spring and new plates installed for $340. I don’t really notice a difference in clutch pull and so far it’s holding perfect:)