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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra Classic® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: Rhino on November 29, 2006, 09:17:32 PM
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Could someone direct me to the fix (yeh, I know the law) that will allow high and low beams to operate without turning off the spots on a 07 SEUC, and still allow spot manual control??? I wanna see the light.
Thanks
Rhino (BULL)
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Could someone direct me to the fix (yeh, I know the law) that will allow high and low beams to operate without turning off the spots on a 07 SEUC, and still allow spot manual control???
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Here's a wiring diagram on how to do it....
(http://flhrsei.org/yabb2/Attachments/runninglamps.jpg)
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Thanks DooD,
I'll check it out. On the 07, the spots/passing are on its own circuit switch shared with the cruise control. The aux is still open for someother toys. I'll open it up and see if that is the bdirection for my 07. Really appreciate it!!
Rhino (BULL)
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Hey HD,
Does your schematic show the yellow being hot all the time, while still contolled by the existing spot switch, or are we now employing the additional use of the aux switch also? Thanks
R
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Hey HD,
Does your schematic show the yellow being hot all the time, while still contolled by the existing spot switch, or are we now employing the additional use of the aux switch also?
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WHat happens when you have to get a safety inspection?
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WHat happens when you have to get a safety inspection?
That would depend on what State you are in for the inspection. Not illegal in all states.
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There is another way. If you'd like to leave the Aux completely available for other things, the fender tip light circuit is almost unused on our bikes. There is a connector behind the headlight that is free for it (since we don't have the fender tip lamp) and you can tie directly into it. I spliced into the harness before it got to the Spots switch that way the switch still works, but it takes it off the headlight circuit like it is from the factory.
Also if your lookin for more light, swap the spot bulbs out for 886's (instead of the stock 881's) and change both headlight bulbs out for H9's instead of the H8 and H11.....more wattage. I've had mine like that for better than 20K miles and zero problems with em, except I can see REALLY well at night.
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I love this stuff,
Thats DooD & Fr8,
I will open up the headlamp and take a look see. I do like the idea (both) taking it away from the headlamp, although in 25 yr I never had one go, HOWEVER, seems easier through the headlamp, am I correct?
Also, I like these light suggestions. A definite since I tend to ride at night and want to see WELL no matter what.
As far as a safety inspection, whatizit? Really, it's funny that a safety inspector would even look for such a lame thing, since this is being done FOR SAFETY!. Oh yeh, No safety inspections here....yet....we control our own.
R.
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I love this stuff,
Thats DooD & Fr8,
I will open up the headlamp and take a look see.
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AH HAH! Yup, never the two together... That could be a disaster in any case, especially, if I got this right, that the spots and the lamps are on the same circuit. What genius did that I wonder.
ANyway, before I look at the schematic, will the lead for the front fender light, if I find it, not be part of the aux switch, and also, I assume it takes it (the spots) to another fuse circuit. If so, no problem, will go hunt down some lamps tommorrow.
BTW, how about the heat? any plastic gonna melt when its 100 ambient outside in traffic and the lights are on? Do I need to worry about that in addition to making sure my pants don't catch on fire from the engine heat too? Might be to much to think about all at once....
Thanks
Ron
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AH HAH!
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Thanks Fr8,
This is nice. Will be my first mods on my B/O tommorrow for sure. Thanks again!
Ron
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Thanks Fr8,
This is nice.
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OK,
I haqve not opened it up yet, weather is just tooo nice to take the time, but calling for rain tommorrow,
If I understand correctly, this will work.
A. Remove outer fairing
B. Find Yellow wire juswt before spot switch in harness.
C Cut it and add a pigtail.
D. Plug it in the open fender circuit (which wire? Are there two on that plug BTW)
E. Retrn ther wire back to the yellow and splice it back in ther harness on the spot side.
E. Voila!
Yes?
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There is another way.
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Thanks Mr. Gomez!
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Hi All, Incl Fr8...
OK, I opened up the buzzards nest and shot some pix of the open fairing on the FLHTCUSE2. Did that just to see inside, short a few wires and ...well , and ask for some help.
If you look you will see replicas I hope of what you guys have.
Since I don't know how to print on the pics or draw, it makes it more difficult.
On the fairing is a plug connected connector made up of 4 wires. They are the running lights and spots. Blue & Black and Grey & Purple (Spots&Run)
At the headlamp back to coupler and then to harness innards is 2 plugs, one to low and one to high. Low is yellow and black and high is white and black. At the coupler between the lamps is 3 yellow, 3 whites and 1 black. There is also a black pigtail, and a orange/white single from the coupler too.
One of those pigs is covered with a red cap.
Off the fairing, there is a blue and black wire to a connector that is open. I am sure this is the open fender light. Works when on, looks like it is connected to the running lights too.
So how do i isolate those spots on the existing switch, so when switching to high, the spots are unaffected? and at the same time take them away from the headlamp circuit to the running light (fender tip) circuit? Plainspeak please with arrows would be nice.
The high beam is a 35 watter. Unbeleivable as a combo. Already changed out the low for a H9 65w with a razor knife, huge diff for sure. Will add a 55 to the high, combined with the 38 w I already added in place of the 27 watt spots.
I need the lights bad. The back roads here are full of wildlife, and I don't need a deer or pig adventure on the unlit backroads.
Help Me
Rhino
(aint afraid of bustin anything)
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another
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another
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another
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another..
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yet another
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So anyway, which wire at what place do i cut and then I stick it where. Hey also saw them diodes where a yellow wire also goes. Hmm, sorry, just the simplest wire to wire. A little cutting and splicing is a good thing, as long as it works.
Thanks ahead!
Rhino
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Rhino...just did this to mine while changing the bars.
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I'm gonna grab a flashlight and go investigate.
After I take a look I may have one more ?
For now thank a you so a very much
Rhino!
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OK TC,
I found the harness and it is tight in there. On the schematic, it shows the yellow going all the way from the interconnect harness (#6) and dissapears in a miriad of secret places, eventually to the low beam, (as seen in pix). If power is coming along the yellow from the switch, to the harness and then to the low beam, would it not cut power to the low beam also? Or , could I cut it further along the line where I can at least get at it?
The yellow splits, also runs from the low beam and to the handlebar, I assume the low/high beam switch. Before I cut...howz it go? Measure twice cut once?
Thanks
R
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THEYSAY GIT ER DUN, well i got it done.
Thanks so much!
Rhino
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Rhino...what did you do? It is tight in there. On the 06, what I did allows the spots to be cut off, and the low beam remains on, and the spots remain on with the high beam/low beam. The yellow wire to the spot switch is a hot not feeding anything but the spots....unless the diode blocks the signal to the spots when the high beam is on?
Inquiring minds want to know?
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Hi TC,
What I did, after looking hard at this little project with advice from experts...
Finding that yellow wire was easy. Hmm after looking at it I ending up using a tap on connector from radio shack. I disconnected the harness holding the yellow wire (and about 10 others) for a bit more manuvering room. First I added my pigtail to the connector, long enough to reach where I was going with it (over to the blue wire on the fender tip lite open circuit). I slipped it in the slotted side, and it stayed in place. I used a 16ga. Then I carefully positioned the in-line portion of the connector around the yellow, and when ready, was able to get a pliers in there to squeeze them and the connector together. After I did that, I THEN cut the yellow in back of the connector (the side going to the dash switches) and taped it all up to make sure that there woud be no exposed anything. That way it was easier for ME. Now the yellow was cut leaving the yellow going into the multiconnector open, and the yellow was now connected to the pigtail wire connector, and that long pigtail was routed around the front and then connected to the BLUE at the fender tip.
After it was all together, and everything was secure, it was time to test. Turning on the ign, and there it was, spots during the low and high beam, and the spot switch works totally independant.
I was in my bike shop (say fancy shed) at the rear of the property when I finished this project. It was about that time I heard my daughter screaming (just loud, not in horror), exclaiming the garage door was trying to crush our cat. Needless to say, as I was testing all this wonderful stuff, flipping the high and low beam, little did I know, my programmed switch was opening and closing the garage door. I was laughing hysterically when I saw that one, reminded my of a tv commercial about "what does this switch do honey?"
Rhino
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Glad it worked out for you, Rhino....I did the same thing with the garage door...I'd do it, then forget, and do it again...sometimes I amaze myself with how goofy I can be. I was 25 feet from the door!! More light is a good thing!! I'm going to test mine on the road this weekend as the temps here are around 70 in the day and 50 at night.
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Yes TC,
Thank YOU!
PS, cat survived...
See ya!
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Hi TC,
What I did, after looking hard at this little project with advice from experts...
Finding that yellow wire was easy. Hmm after looking at it I ending up using a tap on connector from radio shack. I disconnected the harness holding the yellow wire (and about 10 others) for a bit more manuvering room. First I added my pigtail to the connector, long enough to reach where I was going with it (over to the blue wire on the fender tip lite open circuit). I slipped it in the slotted side, and it stayed in place. I used a 16ga. Then I carefully positioned the in-line portion of the connector around the yellow, and when ready, was able to get a pliers in there to squeeze them and the connector together. After I did that, I THEN cut the yellow in back of the connector (the side going to the dash switches) and taped it all up to make sure that there woud be no exposed anything. That way it was easier for ME. Now the yellow was cut leaving the yellow going into the multiconnector open, and the yellow was now connected to the pigtail wire connector, and that long pigtail was routed around the front and then connected to the BLUE at the fender tip.
After it was all together, and everything was secure, it was time to test. Turning on the ign, and there it was, spots during the low and high beam, and the spot switch works totally independant.
[highlight]I was in my bike shop (say fancy shed) at the rear of the property when I finished this project. It was about that time I heard my daughter screaming (just loud, not in horror), exclaiming the garage door was trying to crush our cat. Needless to say, as I was testing all this wonderful stuff, flipping the high and low beam, little did I know, my programmed switch was opening and closing the garage door. I was laughing hysterically when I saw that one, reminded my of a tv commercial about "what does this switch do honey?" [/highlight]
Rhino
[size=36]LMAO!!![/size] ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Since the change over to the new format, we lost some posts. I NEED to do this when I do my Buletooth.
Is the prefered way still cutting the yellow wire?
How do I know which wire is the fender light? Which color is positive? Is there a diagram?
I need help on this one! TIA, AJ
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Aloha AJ,
I just did this last Sunday while installing some J&M stuff also.
Pics in this thread are helpful. I cut the yellow wire from harness, taped and heat shrink on switch side then wired the other yellow end into the blue fender tip light wire. No brainer as the other wire with blue is black. Took longer to convince myself that this yellow wire was the one to cut. As stated, it is in harness along with about 15 other wires. Seems like there was more than 10. The switch side is the side nearest the front looking at it attached to fairing support bracket.
Kelly
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Aj, I have done 4 of these so far, and it is very easy, as long as you look at the pictures. I got it down to 10 minutes each now, and works well. On the new 07 CUSE2's, which I am familiar with, you can also tap into the fender wires from the existing leads that already have connectors on them. The only cut you have to do is the yellow at the specified harness, I never tried it from the other side of the harness, and it is a bit tight to get in there if you just remove the outer fairing. Believe me, those in-line taps are the way to go.
Rhino
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I need help!
We're in the garage now trying to figure out which yellow & blue wires to cut! Any help? AJ
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Another ? If you attach to the blue wire, will you still have control using the spot switch?
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As said, ony the yeloow is cut, and then from the dash side (which ultimately goes to the switches) , not the harness side. (The harness side is left with the yellow sticking out of it, and tape it off), attach a wire TO the yellow coming from the dash, and run it in the fairing TO the fender tip light, and yes, the spots are controlled as normal with the switch, the only diff is the spots stay on while the high beam is on too.
Rhino
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Did you get it to work for you AJ :nixweiss:
Are you :drink: heavily because things didn't go according to plan
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You know what happened when MacGyver cut the wrong wire. Boom!
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As said, ony the yeloow is cut, and then from the dash side (which ultimately goes to the switches) , not the harness side. (The harness side is left with the yellow sticking out of it, and tape it off), attach a wire TO the yellow coming from the dash, and run it in the fairing TO the fender tip light, and yes, the spots are controlled as normal with the switch, the only diff is the spots stay on while the high beam is on too.
Rhino
AJ....what he said!! That puts the aux lights on it's own circuit and still lets the switch work.
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AJ....what he said!! That puts the aux lights on it's own circuit and still lets the switch work.
And that's a good thing. You do not want to find out how much leather can be quickly and almost permanently sucked up your ass when a fuse blows that suddenly lands you in the deafening darkness of having neither headlights nor spots in the middle of a long sweeping turn on a dark moonless night. You might as well just buy a new seat when that happens.
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Yellow wire is pin # 2 in the 18 pin harness coming off the switch side
Pix to follow
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And that's a good thing. You do not want to find out how much leather can be quickly and almost permanently sucked up your ass when a fuse blows that suddenly lands you in the deafening darkness of having neither headlights nor spots in the middle of a long sweeping turn on a dark moonless night. You might as well just buy a new seat when that happens.
2ln, you were next on my call list.
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2ln, you were next on my call list.
Looks like you got a good description back there. But call anytime. Not a thing. :2vrolijk_21:
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2ln, you were next on my call list.
Actually, I misspoke, or mistyped...it's not really a seperate circuit, but only has a very minimal current draw from the ass end of the bike. Even with the bulb change in the Aux lights, you'll be well under 10Amps and it has a 15amp fuse...
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And that's a good thing. You do not want to find out how much leather can be quickly and almost permanently sucked up your ass when a fuse blows
not only permenent but the orstrich borg like ramifications of said such sucking up on the '07's could actually hurt :huepfenlol2:
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Actually, I misspoke, or mistyped...it's not really a seperate circuit, but only has a very minimal current draw from the ass end of the bike. Even with the bulb change in the Aux lights, you'll be well under 10Amps and it has a 15amp fuse...
Separate from the headlights though. And that's the goal. Want to eliminate the possibility of losing them both at the same time due to a single popped fuse.
I made mine behave even a bit differently than that. Mine still go on and off with the headlights in a normal fashion (it's part of the state safety inspection here and I really just didn't want to screw with it). But used a relay pack such that if the headlight fuse pops the spots will come on automatically. So even if the headlights are suddenly lost while in high beam the spots will still come on automatically. So the on/off relative to high beam function stayed normal but they'll never leave me dark if the headlight fuse suddenly blows.
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not only permenent but the orstrich borg like ramifications of said such sucking up on the '07's could actually hurt :huepfenlol2:
gawdammit, there's a mouthful of soda I'll never get back
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And that's a good thing. You do not want to find out how much leather can be quickly and almost permanently sucked up your ass when a fuse blows
not only permenent but the orstrich borg like ramifications of said such sucking up on the '07's could actually hurt :huepfenlol2:
Gene, you have such a way with words!
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Sure Mark (07CVO) now you show up after all the fun!
This is the conncetor where the yellow wire is. Tim is pointing to the side towards the fairing not the side that needs to be cut. It is pin #2 in the 16 pin harness.
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In the above picture you can see the blue/black plug. Here is a close up. ( or at least I think it is )
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I was in my bike shop (say fancy shed) at the rear of the property when I finished this project. It was about that time I heard my daughter screaming (just loud, not in horror), exclaiming the garage door was trying to crush our cat. Needless to say, as I was testing all this wonderful stuff, flipping the high and low beam, little did I know, my programmed switch was opening and closing the garage door. I was laughing hysterically when I saw that one, reminded my of a tv commercial about "what does this switch do honey?"
Rhino
:worthless: :dier_21:
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Hey Hard 10,
You are close, but that is not the right wire harness. It is the harness on the left side. Just thought I would post this so no one ventures into this cut too soon.
Rhino
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HD-dude’s suggestion gets my vote for a couple of reasons; simple and effective.
The Orange/Red wire on terminal 4 of the accessory switch is the main fused P&A accessory circuit and is switched only by the ignition switch. Dude’s method gets the spotlamps off the headlamp circuit. This can be useful in case of an issue with the headlamp circuit /fuse.
The front fender tip lamp is on the headlamp circuit so if there were an issue with the lighting circuit, the spots would also be affected.
djkak
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HD-dude’s suggestion gets my vote for a couple of reasons; simple and effective.
The Orange/Red wire on terminal 4 of the accessory switch is the main fused P&A accessory circuit and is switched only by the ignition switch. Dude’s method gets the spotlamps off the headlamp circuit. This can be useful in case of an issue with the headlamp circuit /fuse.
The front fender tip lamp is on the headlamp circuit so if there were an issue with the lighting circuit, the spots would also be affected.
djkak
The fender tip pigtail is not on the headlamp circuit, but it's own 15 amp fuse....I blew the fuse with test probes, that's how I know. This circuit feeds all the Close Encounter lights on a regular ultra classic's front fender.
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The fender tip pigtail is not on the headlamp circuit, but it's own 15 amp fuse....I blew the fuse with test probes, that's how I know. This circuit feeds all the Close Encounter lights on a regular ultra classic's front fender.
Thanks TCnBham, that is correct. The late model machines have the headlamp on a circuit independent of the other lighting. It looks like 2003 was the first year for this in the Touring Platform.
The lighting circuit which the fender tip light is apart of would be a good option for powering up the spotlamps.
Regarding my posted reply above; in the words of Gilda Radner’s character, (Emily?) on Saturday Night Live; “Never mind”.
djkak
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Thanks TCnBham, that is correct. The late model machines have the headlamp on a circuit independent of the other lighting. It looks like 2003 was the first year for this in the Touring Platform.
The lighting circuit which the fender tip light is apart of would be a good option for powering up the spotlamps.
Regarding my posted reply above; in the words of Gilda Radner’s character, (Emily?) on Saturday Night Live; “Never mind”.
djkak
I have the advantage of not having my head cluttered up with prior model year stuff, as the only other HD I've owned was an old Panhead chopper, and it barely HAD wires... ;D ;)
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Regarding my posted reply above; in the words of Gilda Radner’s character, (Emily?) on Saturday Night Live; “Never mind”.
djkak
Emily Litella :)
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Hey Hard 10,
You are close, but that is not the right wire harness. It is the harness on the left side. Just thought I would post this so no one ventures into this cut too soon.
Rhino
So whats the verdict here? Seems this simple wire swap has gone aray? Whats the correct thing to do for an 07 ultra?
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So whats the verdict here? Seems this simple wire swap has gone aray? Whats the correct thing to do for an 07 ultra?
It does seem that my first reply didn’t really add any value; classic assumption issues. Please allow me to try again.
HD-dude’s suggestion gets my vote for a couple of reasons; simple and effective.
The Orange/Red wire on terminal 4 of the accessory switch is the main fused P&A accessory circuit and is switched only by the ignition switch. Dude’s method gets the spotlamps off the headlamp circuit. This can be useful in case of an issue with the headlamp circuit /fuse.
It is my sense that this mod can be executed quickly and cleanly without removing the outer fairing. Removing the panel that houses the fairing switches should expose all of the wiring necessary to complete the mod.
BTW, this won’t help you much at all with your spotlamps, but my favorite Emily Litella (Gilda Radner) Weekend Update bit was the “Endangered Feces” skit.
djkak
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And now, our daughter Francine, will play the recorder! ;) Hoist! 8)
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BTW, this won’t help you much at all with your spotlamps, but my favorite Emily Litella (Gilda Radner) Weekend Update bit was the “Endangered Feces” skit.
djkak
And now, our daughter Francine, will play the recorder! ;) Hoist! 8)
Don’t tell me Francine also has endangered feces; now that is a remarkable coincidence! Damn, here we are off topic again. Hoist, if you have a hand held spotlamp at home maybe you could shed some light on Francine’s….oh forget it. If we are quiet about this, maybe no one will notice. :)
djkak
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Don’t tell me Francine also has endangered feces; now that is a remarkable coincidence! Damn, here we are off topic again. Hoist, if you have a hand held spotlamp at home maybe you could shed some light on Francine’s….oh forget it. If we are quiet about this, maybe no one will notice. :)
djkak
Hey dj, how's it going? I thought you'd know it. She's another Gilda SNL character. I don't think one thread stays on topic anyway. Actually, I don't want spots all the time anyway. Geez, I better get out of this thread. It's just that I was promoted today and was feeling Evil! ;) Hoist! 8)
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Hey dj, how's it going? I thought you'd know it. She's another Gilda SNL character....Geez, I better get out of this thread. It's just that I was promoted today and was feeling Evil! ;) Hoist! 8)
You can be pretty darn sure that any brain cells of mine that may have stored even a faint memory of Francine, have long since been recycled for something much less useful. :)
Congratulations on the promotion! Everyone can use one of those every now and again to keep their spirits up. The extra moolah won’t get in the way much either, I’m sure.
djkak
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You can be pretty darn sure that any brain cells of mine that may have stored even a faint memory of Francine, have long since been recycled for something much less useful. :)
Congratulations on the promotion! Everyone can use one of those every now and again to keep their spirits up. The extra moolah won’t get in the way much either, I’m sure.
djkak
Not a work or $ promotion. Oops, better drop it. ;) Hoist!
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Not a work or $ promotion. Oops, better drop it. ;) Hoist!
In the back of my mind I knew that something as far out of balance as a wiring thread off topic on feces couldn’t exist in a harmony with the rest of the universe; entirely my fault.
djkak
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a wiring thread off topic on feces
djkak
Wait, a moderator will move this thread to cat barf before long.
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Does seem strange to go from several different ideas to cut wires to playing the recorder to warranty promotions. ;)
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Wait, a moderator will move this thread to cat barf before long.
I’m not sure that this thing won’t morph back into something more appropriate like 32E three brush armature growling; although when you consider all of the action in Cat Vomit, armature growling might get more exposure there.
Looking back, Cat Vomit really marked the beginning of the cabin fever season for Motorcycle enthusiasts. I wonder what will happen to it once the sun comes out.
djkak
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Being that it has been almost 18 months and I have not done this mod yet. I am going to try and tackle it this morning. Has anyone else done this lately? If so my question still is: which side of the yellow is cut? And which side is the power from the fender tip applied too? If I am reading this correct, cut on inner fairing side of connector and splice that to the blue wire?
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Ok, aborted once again. Fairing back on I'm going ridin'.
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It does seem that my first reply didn’t really add any value; classic assumption issues. Please allow me to try again.
HD-dude’s suggestion gets my vote for a couple of reasons; simple and effective.
The Orange/Red wire on terminal 4 of the accessory switch is the main fused P&A accessory circuit and is switched only by the ignition switch. Dude’s method gets the spotlamps off the headlamp circuit. This can be useful in case of an issue with the headlamp circuit /fuse.
It is my sense that this mod can be executed quickly and cleanly without removing the outer fairing. Removing the panel that houses the fairing switches should expose all of the wiring necessary to complete the mod.
BTW, this won’t help you much at all with your spotlamps, but my favorite Emily Litella (Gilda Radner) Weekend Update bit was the “Endangered Feces” skit.
djkak
After looking at the wiring diagram, I assumed that this would be most easily achieved by just removing the cover for the fairing switches, but then when I looked at things, I realized that the ignition switch would have to come off. With no service manual at hand, I couldn't figure out how that's done. How does the ignition switch come off (assuming that 'with a big hammer' is not an acceptable answer)?
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Here ya go..........
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Great - Thanks!!
I assume the ignition switch just goes back on with no special procedure (assuming you didn't drop the little spring they mention will fall out).
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Yep, just re-instal in the reverse order. The key will remain in the lock & when you re-install, turn it back to the right. Don't worry about the spring, it's a big honkin' thing, not easy to lose.
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Ours is even easier Breeze. There was a change post-06. No hold-your-mouth-right alignment issues to keep static prior to reassembly.
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Cool. I've been taking the outer fairing off and looking up into that deep narrow hole and then putting the fairing back on for close to three years now. It just seems so much easier to pull off that little cover under the ignition. I'll try THAT this weekend, if I can just figure out how the cover comes off. I successfully pulled the ignition knob last night, but didn't have enough time to actually DO anything so I slipped it back on. I didn't see any attachment points for the cover though, so that will prolly be magic too.... Any secrets to how that comes off?
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Cool. I've been taking the outer fairing off and looking up into that deep narrow hole and then putting the fairing back on for close to three years now. It just seems so much easier to pull off that little cover under the ignition. I'll try THAT this weekend, if I can just figure out how the cover comes off. I successfully pulled the ignition knob last night, but didn't have enough time to actually DO anything so I slipped it back on. I didn't see any attachment points for the cover though, so that will prolly be magic too.... Any secrets to how that comes off?
Not hard. Lock off. Big nut underneath it (Crescent wrench). Then two screws (one on each side) that also hold the cover in place.
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Do you have to remove the passing lamps?
i think for my 04 SEEG it was one of the steps to remove the switch housing.
/Bill
Not hard. Lock off. Big nut underneath it (Crescent wrench). Then two screws (one on each side) that also hold the cover in place.
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Do you have to remove the passing lamps?
i think for my 04 SEEG it was one of the steps to remove the switch housing.
/Bill
No Bill, sure don't. The two screws on the side are small ones. Not the large ones through the passing lamp brackets.
Here's an old pic I found to illustrate the screw. Now I don't remember for sure if it's one or two on each side though. Whichever, it's the black screw(s) on the little airplanes port wing that hold the cover in place from the sides.
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No Bill, sure don't. The two screws on the side are small ones. Not the large ones through the passing lamp brackets.
Here's an old pic I found to illustrate the screw. Now I don't remember for sure if it's one or two on each side though. Whichever, it's the black screw(s) on the little airplanes port wing that hold the cover in place from the sides.
Thanks!
Those pouches sure would look pretty in red...
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hey, how did you change that picture....it had pouches showing and an engine the first time I looked!
Thanks!
Those pouches sure would look pretty in red...
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Thanks!
Those pouches sure would look pretty in red...
I've had the same thought.... ::)
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I've had the same thought.... ::)
WTH is that plane doing there Don? :confused5: ;D
Hoist! 8)
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WTH is that plane doing there Don? :confused5: ;D
Hoist! 8)
What can I say man. I got tired of arrows and a plane was the first thing I found. :P
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What can I say man. I got tired of arrows and a plane was the first thing I found. :P
HeHe! Ya mean it's not on the bike? :nixweiss: ;D ;D ;D
Hoist! 8)
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What can I say man. I got tired of arrows and a plane was the first thing I found. :P
That must be cause Airplane is filed under "A" and Finger is filed under "F", right? Otherwise... ::) :P
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That must be cause Airplane is filed under "A" and Finger is filed under "F", right? Otherwise... ::) :P
If I'd known Dood was on leave would've been there in a heartbeat. Didn't know he was out enjoying something else though. And he's quicker than all of us put together when he puts his mind to it.