Topic: Handlebar Postion on 2015 FLTRUSE (Read 25057 times)

hogdooz · « **on:** December 06, 2014, 08:52:48 PM »

I would like my handlebars rotated up a little, talked to my dealer today since they didn't have time to do anything when I picked it up and they say they can't be moved because they're pinned. Has anyone removed the pin yet or is there any movement at all without moving the pin? How do I get to the handlebar clamp and the pin if the dealer absolutely won't do it for me? It looks to be built much different than my 2011 FLTRUSE was--I can't figure out how it comes apart. Thanks for any info.

graygus · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2014, 09:34:12 PM »

I bought my 2015 today and asked the dealer to rotate them up for me. They told me they were set as high as they would go without modifying the pin which they said they would not do. They are worried about liability issues. So I also want to find out how to move them and I believe there are a couple guys that have had this done.

WJS · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2014, 09:45:28 PM »

Remove the chrome cover under lock. Cover your tank to keep them from damage. Remove the 2 screws from the sides of instrument housing. Unplug the instruments. Take the 4 bolts out on risers remove bars. Get a pair of vice grips and pull the pin out of the lower part of riser. Pull and turn at the same time.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #3 on:** December 06, 2014, 09:59:13 PM »

Pinned handlebars? Pinned in one spot. When did this start? Hell, we used to make fun of the guys that didn't have enough sense to know that the first thing you do upon getting a new bike is adjust the bars to fit you.

graygus · « **Reply #4 on:** December 06, 2014, 10:08:04 PM »

Thanks WJS I will get on that little project.

OBB · « **Reply #5 on:** December 06, 2014, 10:10:35 PM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on December 06, 2014, 09:59:13 PM

Pinned handlebars? Pinned in one spot. When did this start? Hell, we used to make fun of the guys that didn't have enough sense to know that the first thing you do upon getting a new bike is adjust the bars to fit you.

Yup, big write up over on Roadglide.org with pix about it. Bars themselves have a slot in them that sits on the pin. Non CVO models also have the grips pinned so you can't rotate to far and pinch wires. CVO models have marks on the bars (it's in the manual) that you're not supposed to rotate the grips outside of those marks. Service bulletin out about 6 weeks ago telling dealers to rotate the bars the whole way forward during prep. I made sure my dealer was aware of this before my bike even got here. With the new fairing the bars are much closer to the radio and inner fairing that they had to put a "stop point" in there so people wouldn't rotate them too far forward. Imagine the trouble if people rotated them too far in the garage and then didn't turn the wheel lock to lock to check for clearance.

Maybe MoCo started rolling them forward at York and told the dealers there's no more adjustment.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #6 on:** December 06, 2014, 10:24:07 PM »

Quote from: OBB on December 06, 2014, 10:10:35 PM

Yup, big write up over on Roadglide.org with pix about it. Bars themselves have a slot in them that sits on the pin. Non CVO models also have the grips pinned so you can't rotate to far and pinch wires. CVO models have marks on the bars (it's in the manual) that you're not supposed to rotate the grips outside of those marks. Service bulletin out about 6 weeks ago telling dealers to rotate the bars the whole way forward during prep. I made sure my dealer was aware of this before my bike even got here. With the new fairing the bars are much closer to the radio and inner fairing that they had to put a "stop point" in there so people wouldn't rotate them too far forward. Imagine the trouble if people rotated them too far in the garage and then didn't turn the wheel lock to lock to check for clearance.

Maybe MoCo started rolling them forward at York and told the dealers there's no more adjustment.

Geez.... I know the MoCo has treated us like ugly stepchildren for years and years and years. Know they're acting like the nanny guardian of the stupid stepchildren as well.

I get it, some of that stuff can only move so much. It makes sense with the grips. But guys are really moving the handlebars so much they're causing problems? Guess I need to actually see what's there before saying it is profound nonsense. But for gawd's sake it makes a guy feel like he might as well have a Schwinn trike and Pee Wee Herman outfit if we're so far removed from dealing with our own bikes anymore...

grc · « **Reply #7 on:** December 06, 2014, 10:55:24 PM »

Unfortunately there are many people running around loose these days Don that don't have a lot of what used to be called "common sense". Add to that the litigious nature of our society, and the fact that no one it seems ever thinks they are to blame for the bad things that befall them, and we get manufacturers that feel it necessary to install pinned bars, along with plastering the bikes and other products with enough warning labels to wallpaper a small room. People don't heed warnings, people don't read manuals, and people often refuse to take good advice when it's offered. The nanny state has been created by those sorts of people, not necessarily the manufacturers of products. Trust me, we didn't add all those warning labels and automated safety devices on cars because we were looking for a way to pizz away more money. We did it to cover our azzes. And I'm going to assume that Harley is doing the same thing.

I'm often amazed when I think back to how things were in the 50's, 60's, and even 70's, that any of us survived long enough to reach adulthood. Somehow people back then managed to develop that common sense I mentioned earlier, and those who didn't often screwed up and often got hurt. When we did something stupid and got hurt or tore up our stuff, we didn't look for someone else to blame, we sucked it up, took responsibility, and moved ahead. What a novel idea.

Jerry

Twolanerider · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2014, 12:45:35 AM »

Quote from: grc on December 06, 2014, 10:55:24 PM

Unfortunately there are many people running around loose these days Don that don't have a lot of what used to be called "common sense". Add to that the litigious nature of our society, and the fact that no one it seems ever thinks they are to blame for the bad things that befall them, and we get manufacturers that feel it necessary to install pinned bars, along with plastering the bikes and other products with enough warning labels to wallpaper a small room. People don't heed warnings, people don't read manuals, and people often refuse to take good advice when it's offered. The nanny state has been created by those sorts of people, not necessarily the manufacturers of products. Trust me, we didn't add all those warning labels and automated safety devices on cars because we were looking for a way to pizz away more money. We did it to cover our azzes. And I'm going to assume that Harley is doing the same thing.

I'm often amazed when I think back to how things were in the 50's, 60's, and even 70's, that any of us survived long enough to reach adulthood. Somehow people back then managed to develop that common sense I mentioned earlier, and those who didn't often screwed up and often got hurt. When we did something stupid and got hurt or tore up our stuff, we didn't look for someone else to blame, we sucked it up, took responsibility, and moved ahead. What a novel idea.

Jerry

It's all so true Jerry. The same thoughts you and I and others (of sensible mind and dinged up body) have had more than once. Too often think back on some of the equipment utilized and things done and contemplate how much was left to us. That used to be recognized as "can do" or other descriptions. But we learned from it. Now we're never allowed the chance.

I readily admit and appreciate the safety increases that have come from advancing tech. Things we never could have dreamed of when we were kids. And much is just a good application of modern technology. But much is nanny state-ism. For someone that wonders how we learn and progress without challenge and experience it both worries and annoys the hell out of me.

FLSTFI Dave · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2014, 07:42:22 AM »

With the pin removed the bars will rotate quite a ways forward before they will hit the fairing.

My dealer removed the pin for me as part of the prep, even had me come sit on it so they could get them where I like them.

FLH91 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2014, 08:15:37 AM »

My Dealer also removed the pin during prep and had me sit on it to get the desired fitment. Overall the bars are VERY comfortable for me, no change out needed.

graygus · « **Reply #11 on:** December 07, 2014, 08:32:08 PM »

I just finished pulling the pin (Not that pin as in Bang) It was really easy thanks to all who gave advice. What a difference in the feel. I managed to even get a 100 mile ride in without getting wet. Now we need to give her some power and some rumble.

hogdooz · « **Reply #12 on:** December 07, 2014, 10:33:51 PM »

Thanks for all the replies. I'll try to get done in the morning, I'm assuming the chrome cover under the switch is just a lift up cover. And are you saying the switch doesn't have to come out?

graygus · « **Reply #13 on:** December 08, 2014, 12:02:00 AM »

Yes that is correct.

WJS · « **Reply #14 on:** December 08, 2014, 04:56:47 AM »

Chrome cover slides out under switch. Horseshoe shaped. Once you remove it the hole in the housing is large enough to pass over switch.

hogdooz · « **Reply #15 on:** December 09, 2014, 11:44:26 PM »

OBB, is there any way to get a copy of that service bulletin that told the dealers where to position the bars? Or at least the bulletin number? Thanks.

OBB · « **Reply #16 on:** December 10, 2014, 05:34:40 AM »

Quote from: hogdooz on December 09, 2014, 11:44:26 PM

OBB, is there any way to get a copy of that service bulletin that told the dealers where to position the bars? Or at least the bulletin number? Thanks.

Let me do some digging. I'm pretty sure it was on the RG site.

hogdooz · « **Reply #17 on:** December 11, 2014, 11:06:06 AM »

I rotated my bars, it was just as easy as all of you said. Mine were just fine rotated forward to the pin stop without removing the pin. I would sure like to find that service bulletin to take to my dealer who was adamant the bars wouldn't move. Thanks for all the help.

FLSTFI Dave · « **Reply #18 on:** December 11, 2014, 04:44:25 PM »

Quote from: hogdooz on December 11, 2014, 11:06:06 AM

I rotated my bars, it was just as easy as all of you said. Mine were just fine rotated forward to the pin stop without removing the pin. I would sure like to find that service bulletin to take to my dealer who was adamant the bars wouldn't move. Thanks for all the help.

Sad how many dealers seem to know less about the bikes than we do. Luckily the dealer I use is pretty good and knowledgeable.

Classic45 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 28, 2015, 08:18:43 AM »

Service Bulletin M-1375, 2015 Road Glide Handlebar Adjustment at PDI.

hogdooz · « **Reply #20 on:** January 28, 2015, 10:33:38 AM »

Thanks Classic45, I'll make sure my dealer sees this. My bike was built 11/2014 but the bars were left all the way back and down. It's so much more comfortable with the bars forward against the pin, I don't think I'll need to pull the pin to go any farther forward.

nytryder · « **Reply #21 on:** February 06, 2015, 04:59:02 PM »

Quote from: WJS on December 06, 2014, 09:45:28 PM

Remove the chrome cover under lock. Cover your tank to keep them from damage. Remove the 2 screws from the sides of instrument housing. Unplug the instruments. Take the 4 bolts out on risers remove bars. Get a pair of vice grips and pull the pin out of the lower part of riser. Pull and turn at the same time.

Correct! It took about 15 min. start to finish to do mine. My bike was unrideable for me at the stock pinned angle.

CVODON · « **Reply #22 on:** February 07, 2015, 09:52:07 PM »

Mine is pushed up against the pin and everything is great. I am 5'11 and have 34-35" sleeve length so I am not a tall long arm guy but It would be uncomfortable if moved any further forward. I rode 185 miles today and it is, without a doubt, the most comfortable of all the HD's I have owned.

nytryder · « **Reply #23 on:** February 23, 2015, 07:43:30 AM »

Quote from: FLSTFI Dave on December 07, 2014, 07:42:22 AM

With the pin removed the bars will rotate quite a ways forward before they will hit the fairing.

My dealer removed the pin for me as part of the prep, even had me come sit on it so they could get them where I like them.

Same here. In the pinned position my bike was dangerous for me. Very difficult to handle because the bars were way too low. There is no clearance issue with pushing the bars to a more upright position.

ganev · « **Reply #24 on:** April 04, 2015, 07:56:04 PM »

Is it safe to remove the handlerbar pin guys?

OBB · « **Reply #25 on:** April 04, 2015, 08:33:00 PM »

Quote from: ganev on April 04, 2015, 07:56:04 PM

Is it safe to remove the handlerbar pin guys?

Yup. When adjusting your bars, make sure you don't push them so far forward that they hit the radio housing. There are alignment marks on the bars by the grips that supposedly you should not exceed the limits of those marks if you need to roll the controls towards or away from you also.

Trigger-Man · « **Reply #26 on:** April 05, 2015, 09:01:27 PM »

Quote from: WJS on December 08, 2014, 04:56:47 AM

Chrome cover slides out under switch. Horseshoe shaped. Once you remove it the hole in the housing is large enough to pass over switch.

OK .......feel foolish in that I can't figure out how to slide out that horse-shoe shaped chrome cover

. Read in another thread to insert a small screwdriver or paperclip in the notch at the bottom and "it'll just slide right out"?!?!?! Tried pushing, poking & pressing in every direction while I'm trying to slide the chrome piece off and nothing is happening

! In that same thread another fellow said he broke the part and had to order a new one ........don't want to go there. Any help with exactly how this thing is held in place and how to free it would be appreciated.

OBB · « **Reply #27 on:** April 05, 2015, 10:16:05 PM »

Quote from: TRIGGER-MAN on April 05, 2015, 09:01:27 PM

OK .......feel foolish in that I can't figure out how to slide out that horse-shoe shaped chrome cover . Read in another thread to insert a small screwdriver or paperclip in the notch at the bottom and "it'll just slide right out"?!?!?! Tried pushing, poking & pressing in every direction while I'm trying to slide the chrome piece off and nothing is happening ! In that same thread another fellow said he broke the part and had to order a new one ........don't want to go there. Any help with exactly how this thing is held in place and how to free it would be appreciated.

That was me that broke it (peeled the chrome off of it trying to reinstall it). I can't tell in your pix but you need to take the two screws out of the sides of the instrument cluster to let it come apart. After that, it will give you more room to work with it.

Trigger-Man · « **Reply #28 on:** April 05, 2015, 11:20:16 PM »

Many thanks OBB .........that did the trick

! Turns out the piece needs to be lifted upwards before it'll slide out.

My bike was manufactured in January and per the service bulletin should have been delivered with the bars fully forward. The dealer must have believed it because he insisted they were full forward. What do you know .........turned out they were only about 3/4 forward. Up against the pin now and that's way better and good enough for me

!

OBB · « **Reply #29 on:** April 06, 2015, 06:19:05 AM »

Quote from: TRIGGER-MAN on April 05, 2015, 11:20:16 PM

Many thanks OBB .........that did the trick ! Turns out the piece needs to be lifted upwards before it'll slide out.

My bike was manufactured in January and per the service bulletin should have been delivered with the bars fully forward. The dealer must have believed it because he insisted they were full forward. What do you know .........turned out they were only about 3/4 forward. Up against the pin now and that's way better and good enough for me !

Good deal. Glad you got them adjusted to your liking.

bigjohn63 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 07, 2015, 02:38:54 PM »

I am 6 foot tall and didn't like the bars on the new RG so when we got home pulled dash and pulled the pin and moved the bars to where they feel great now

Reddog303 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 29, 2015, 01:21:41 AM »

Been away so Idid the same rotated to the highest pin pos. perfect now ,:)

Robmay · « **Reply #32 on:** May 23, 2015, 11:55:40 PM »

I've got mine off, rotated forward but am having trouble getting the chrome piece back ON. I'm afraid I'm going to break the clip on the bottom. Any tips?

HogBreath · « **Reply #33 on:** May 24, 2015, 09:00:54 AM »

Quote from: Robmay on May 23, 2015, 11:55:40 PM

I've got mine off, rotated forward but am having trouble getting the chrome piece back ON. I'm afraid I'm going to break the clip on the bottom. Any tips?

Ball peen hammer and a large punch?

OBB · « **Reply #34 on:** May 24, 2015, 09:04:48 AM »

Take the screws out of the side of the instrument pod so it's in two pieces. Much easier (although not slip in) to get that piece back in there. FWIW, that piece is $34 at the dealer

Robmay · « **Reply #35 on:** May 24, 2015, 09:36:27 AM »

Quote from: OBB on May 24, 2015, 09:04:48 AM

Take the screws out of the side of the instrument pod so it's in two pieces. Much easier (although not slip in) to get that piece back in there. FWIW, that piece is $34 at the dealer

I was just telling Ken I figured that part would be about $200...glad to hear I was wrong!

I (we) have been trying to get it back on with the odometer piece loose. Hell I even took the piece off all the way and can't get it to snap back in there. I think Ken (Hogbreath) almost broke the tab off late last night, so I told him we should just leave it alone until this morning. You can see based on his reply above why I prefer not to let him work on my bike....

HogBreath · « **Reply #36 on:** May 24, 2015, 10:05:41 AM »

Quote from: Robmay on May 24, 2015, 09:36:27 AM

I was just telling Ken I figured that part would be about $200...glad to hear I was wrong!

I (we) have been trying to get it back on with the odometer piece loose. Hell I even took the piece off all the way and can't get it to snap back in there. I think Ken (Hogbreath) almost broke the tab off late last night, so I told him we should just leave it alone until this morning. You can see based on his reply above why I prefer not to let him work on my bike....

At least it was your bike and not mine buddy

Trigger-Man · « **Reply #37 on:** May 24, 2015, 02:27:44 PM »

Quote from: Robmay on May 24, 2015, 09:36:27 AM

I was just telling Ken I figured that part would be about $200...glad to hear I was wrong!

I (we) have been trying to get it back on with the odometer piece loose. Hell I even took the piece off all the way and can't get it to snap back in there.

Robmay ......check posts 26 - 28 in this thread for more info. I had no success removing that chrome piece until OBB advised loosening the two screws holding the instrument pod. That allowed for enough separation to remove and reinsert the $34 piece w/o breaking the tab off

Robmay · « **Reply #38 on:** May 24, 2015, 05:35:41 PM »

Quote from: TRIGGER-MAN on May 24, 2015, 02:27:44 PM

Robmay ......check posts 26 - 28 in this thread for more info. I had no success removing that chrome piece until OBB advised loosening the two screws holding the instrument pod. That allowed for enough separation to remove and reinsert the $34 piece w/o breaking the tab off

I have the screws loose.

Trigger-Man · « **Reply #39 on:** May 24, 2015, 07:27:45 PM »

Quote from: Robmay on May 24, 2015, 05:35:41 PM

I have the screws loose.

Well now .......that explains it ..LOL

! Sorry Robmay .........I couldn't resist

. Seriously, I probably removed those two screws completely and was able to wiggle the black housing away from the fork lock knob just enough to slip that bugger in where it belongs. That's the best I can offer ........maybe someone else can help. Good luck with it brother!

Robmay · « **Reply #40 on:** May 24, 2015, 08:30:45 PM »

Yeah Trigger, that's what we're doing but it's not cooperating!

On a side note, took the bike out today to test the bar placement and I like it better.

Robmay · « **Reply #41 on:** May 26, 2015, 02:32:46 PM »

Did you guys that bought a piece for $34 get the CVO part? Just Priced at dealer and its $70 for the chrome piece plus $17 for the sticker insert.

OBB · « **Reply #42 on:** May 26, 2015, 06:03:26 PM »

Quote from: Robmay on May 26, 2015, 02:32:46 PM

Did you guys that bought a piece for $34 get the CVO part? Just Priced at dealer and its $70 for the chrome piece plus $17 for the sticker insert.

That dealer must not like you too much. I MIGHT have still been in my 30day new purchase 15% discount period when I bought mine but I don't think so. I'm digging up my receipt. If I can't find it tonight, I'll call the dealer tomorrow and see what part number it was they got me. Mine came with the sticker on the insert. Makes me think they're looking for the wrong part. It is a CVO restricted part I believe.

OBB · « **Reply #43 on:** May 30, 2015, 01:43:08 PM »

Here's the receipt with the part number I bought.

Robmay · « **Reply #44 on:** May 30, 2015, 08:28:29 PM »

Thank you sir. I'll check with my local dealer when I get back home.

Rob

OBB · « **Reply #45 on:** May 31, 2015, 01:08:27 PM »

Quote from: OBB on May 30, 2015, 01:43:08 PM

Here's the receipt with the part number I bought.

And here's the part that I got with that receipt

Trigger-Man · « **Reply #46 on:** June 01, 2015, 06:09:56 PM »

OBB .......what's the trick to posting multiple pics in a single post?

OBB · « **Reply #47 on:** June 01, 2015, 10:09:06 PM »

Quote from: TRIGGER-MAN on June 01, 2015, 06:09:56 PM

OBB .......what's the trick to posting multiple pics in a single post?

Use an offsite hosting place like Photobucket. Put the pix there and then you copy the IMG code and paste it into the body of the reply box.

Author Topic: Handlebar Postion on 2015 FLTRUSE (Read 25057 times)