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Author Topic: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:  (Read 23618 times)

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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #30 on: May 05, 2012, 09:46:26 AM »

PHOTO F:  HERE YOU CAN SEE THE INFAMOUS SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL THAT WAS LEAKING WHICH IS THE CULPRIT OF THE GREASY MESS ON THE BACK OF THE PRIMARY, SOME BEGIN LEAKING SO BAD, GUYS HAVE PUDDLES ON THE FLOOR.....

AS YOU CAN SEE HERE TWO PILOT HOLES THE SIZE OF SAY 5/64" WERE PREVIOUSLY DRILLED AND NOW TWO WOOD TYPE SCREWS SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE OEM SINGLE LIP OF THE SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL. THE USE OF TWO PLIERS WERE THEN USED AND JUST TO MENTION THIS SEAL WAS TOUGH TO PULL OUT.....IT'S AMAZING HOW WHEN SOMETHING IS TOUGH TO PULL OUT HOW THAT IT CAN STILL LEAK....BUT THIS WAS ANOTHER BONUS OF DOING THE GEAR CHANGE, BEING ABLE TO TAKE CARE OF THIS DELIMA.  THIS AS YOU KNOW IS A LOT OF WORK FOR A $7.00 SEAL REPAIR......MOST GUYS WOULD TAKE THIS TO THE SHOP AND PAY AROUND $400.00 JUST TO REPLACE THE SEAL!!!!!!  



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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 10:43:07 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #31 on: May 05, 2012, 09:46:49 AM »

PHOTO G:  THIS IS A GOOD PHOTO SHOWING THE SURFACE CLEANED UP, AND HOW I PUT BLUE TAPE OVER THE SHARP SPLINES TO KEEP THE SHARP SPLINES FROM TEARING AT THE NEW DOUBLE LIP SEAL.  IF YOU NOTICE THE "RED" AROUND THE EDGE OF THE NEW DOUBLE LIP SEAL I PUT IN, APPARENTLY  ACCORDING TO THE PROFESSIONAL SEAL SALES GUYS EACH SEAL MANUFACTURER COLOR CODES THEIR SEALS SO WHEN YOU GO IN LOOKING FOR A SEAL THEY WILL KNOW WHICH MANUFACTURER PRODUCED IT.  THIS PHOTO WAS TAKEN PRIOR TO TAPPING IT IN.  RIGHT BELOW THE SEAL'S LOCATION YOU SEE ANOTHER BOLT HOLE AND THE BLACK STUFF AROUND THAT HOLE, LOL I DID CLEAN THAT UP I ASSURE YOU!!!! LOL

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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 10:44:23 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #32 on: May 05, 2012, 09:47:34 AM »

PHOTO H;  THIS PHOTO IS SHOWING YOU THAT "DONUT" THAT GOES ON TO PROTECT THE DRIVE SHAFT WHILE TORQUING THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY, A SIDE NOTE THIS "DONUT" ACTUALLY THREADS ON.  NOTICE THE NEW 30T TRANSMISSION SPROCKET OF COURSE AS WELL AS THE NEW 136T BELT.  ALSO THIS PHOTO SHOWS YOU A GOOD LOOK AT THE RUBBER MOUNT SPACER / ISOLATOR , BY THE TIME THIS PHOTO WAS TAKEN THE NEW REAR WHEEL SPROCKET AND BEEN PUT ON THE REAR WHEEL AND THE SWING ARM HAD BEEN REMOVED TO OF COURSE REMOVE THE OLD BELT AND REINSTALL THE NEW 136T BELT.



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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 10:47:28 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #33 on: May 05, 2012, 09:47:56 AM »


PHOTO I:  THIS PHOTO SHOWS THAT HD# 94137-09 MAINSHAFT DEEP WELL SPROCKET SOCKET 1 7/8" /INCLUSIVE OF THE DONUT.  A VERY NICE SOCKET FOR SURE, THAT THING MUST WAY 5 LBS....GEEZ BUT IT IS A PRECISION ORIENTED PIECE OF EQUIPMENT FOR SURE.....AND I AM TELLING YOU.....THE IMPACT WRENCH TAKING OFF THE NUT AND THEN PUTTING IT BACK ON WAS VERY NICE!!!!!  YOU DON'T NEED THE OTHER TOOL SUGGESTED BY HARLEY THE TRANSMISSION PULLY LOCKING TOOL IF YOU USE AN IMPACT WRENCH BUT WITHOUT AN IMPACT WRENCH YOU WOULD NEED THAT TOOL AS WELL.  I HAVE READ WHERE GUYS HAVE HAD A REAL DIFFICULTY TRYING TO REMOVE THE 1 7/8" NUT WITH JUST A "CHEATER" BAR.  IT TOOK THAT IMPACT WRENCH A GOOD 7-8 SECONDS TO BREAK THAT NUT LOOSE...I SUPPOSE 10 YEARS OF HEAT AND SO FORTH MADE THAT BABY PRETTY SOLID.   AND YES I KNEW I WAS TURNING IT THE CORRECT WAY! THIS NUT IS LEFT HAND THREAD.  I WOULD SAY IF ONE WAS GOING TO USE A CHEATER BAR WHICH IS A VERY SLOW PROCESS MAKE SURE YOU COVER YOUR BIKE...IN CASE THAT TOOL SLIPS OFF ON YOU....I BORROWED THE IMPACT WRENCH FROM MY SON, BUT IT'S MY NEXT TOOL....HE HAS A SIMPLE DEWALT 345T ELECTRIC IMPACT WRENCH....I HAVE USED IT FOR SEVERAL PROJECTS....TIME TO GET ONE OF THESE!!!!

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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 10:54:57 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #34 on: May 05, 2012, 09:48:37 AM »


PHOTO J:  SHOWING THE IMPACT GUN I USED....THAT DONUT THAT GOES ON THERE IS THE ONLY WAY YOU COULD REALLY DO THIS....THAT OTHER TOOL THAT THEY SAY YOU NEED TO LOCK THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY IS NOT NEEDED WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.....ONE OF THE SEVERAL SERVICE MANUALS I OWN SPECIFICALLY THE 1993-1994 FXR/FLHT SERVICE MANUAL SAYS TO PUT THE BIKE IN 5TH AND PUSH ON BRAKE.....


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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 10:57:02 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #35 on: May 05, 2012, 09:49:18 AM »


PHOTO K:  THIS IS A GREAT PHOTO THAT SHOWS YOU EVERYTHING CLEANED UP AND IT SHOWS YOU ALL THE BOLT HOLES:
    2 FOR THE STARTER BOLTS THAT COME FROM THE BACK
    1 FOR THE GROUND WIRE AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THE BELT LOOKS TO BE TOUCHING IT.
    4 FOR AROUND THE STATOR (2 OF THOSE ARE OUTSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY AND 2 INSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY.
    2 BOLTS ONE ON EACH SIDE IN THE INNER PRIMARY.
  -----
   9   TOTAL BOLTS THAT HOLD THE INNER PRIMARY.

OUR SERVICE MANUAL AND PARTS MANUAL IS WRONG WHEN IT COMES TO THE BOLTS AND LENGTHS OF BOLTS THAT ARE USED HOLDING ON THE INNER PRIMARY....ALL I NEED TO SAY ABOUT THIS IS MAKE SURE YOU TAKE A PIECE OF CARDBOARD AND DRAW OUT THE BOLT PATTERN AND PULL OUT A BOLT THEN PUSH IT INTO A VISIBLE LOCATION THAT MATCHES ON YOUR CARDBOARD AND THEN YOU WON'T HAVE ANY ISSUES....

HERE IS ANOTHER DISCUSSION, OUR 1999 FXR BIKES FROM THE FACTORY HAVE HAD RUBBER SILICON PUT INTO CERTAIN HOLES...AS WELL AS HAVING LOCKING TABS FOR THE INNER PRIMARY BOLTS.  HD IN LATER MANUALS STOPPED SUGGESTING OR REQUIRING THE NEED FOR RTV SILICON BEING PUT INTO TO THE INNER PRIMARY HOLES TO PREVENT SEEPAGE OR LEAKING.  SO IF YOU HAVE A PROFESSIONAL DO YOUR BIKE YOU HAVE A DELIMA ARE YOU GOING TO PAY HIM TO CLEAN OUT ALL OF THE OLD RUBBER SILICON OUT OF THE THREADED HOLES AS WELL AS OFF THE BOLTS OR NOT WORRY ABOUT IT....PERSONALLY I TOOK THE TIME TO CLEAN EACH BOLT WHICH I DO ANYWAY...WHICH TAKES TIME OF COURSE, THEN THERE IS THE MATTER OF CLEANING THE BOLT HOLES AS WELL.  I CLEANED THE BOLT HOLES VERY WELL.....TOOK SOME TIME AND INSTEAD OF USING BLACT RTV SILICON THIS TIME I AM GOING TO USE AVIATION GASKET CEMENT WHICH IS A PRODUCT I HAVE USED FOR 8 YEARS ON MY BIKES WITH HUGE SUCCESS, GREAT PRODUCT.





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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 11:07:09 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #36 on: May 05, 2012, 09:49:42 AM »


PHOTO L:  IN THIS PHOTO YOU SEE MY NEW SPROCKET.....70T 1 1/2" REAR WHEEL SPROCKET....I ALSO DISCOVERED UPON RESEARCH THAT FOR FXR2 OWNERS THAT THE CHROME COVER INSERT TO COVER THE REAR WHEEL SPROCKET IS ACTUALLY STILL BEING PRODUCED, I HAVEN'T DECIDED WHAT MY LONG TERM PLANS ARE AS TO WHETHER I WILL GO BACK TO THE CHROME COVER OR NOT, I BELIEVE FOR THE REST OF THIS TIRE'S LIFE I WILL GO WITH JUST THE BLACK VERSON OF HOW IT COMES....THE HD# 91733-85A IS 8 HOLE CHROME REAR WHEEL SPROCKET COVER FOR $55.00 SHIPPED TO ME.  SO FOR NOW SINCE I HAVE ALREADY RED LOCKTITED THE BOLTS AND HAVE THE REAR WHEEL BACK IN THE HOLE I WILL WAIT UNTIL MY NEXT TIRE CHANGE TO PERHAPS PUT ON THE CHROME COVER IF I DECIDE I WANT IT.  ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE OPTIONS.....I HAVEN'T HAD ENOUGH TIME TO ADJUST TO WHETHER I LIKE THE BLACK 70T REAR WHEEL SPROCKET "DESIGN" OR WHETHER I WANT IT TO BE CHROMED LIKE THE 65"T OEM WAS.....FXR3 AND FXR4 OWNERS IN THE PAST HAVE NEVER HAD THE ISSUE TO BEGIN WITH SINCE YOU HAD A OEM CHROMED "THUNDERSTAR" REAR WHEEL SPROCKET.....


I JUST REMEMBERED THAT FXR3 OWNERS THAT DECIDE TO GO WITH A 70T REAR WHEEL SPROCKET AND WANT IT TO BE NARROW (1 1/8" BELT) I BELIEVE HD MADE THE "THUNDERSTAR" STYLE REAR WHEEL CHROMED SPROCKET IN A NARROW VERSION WITH 70T, OR MAYBE THAT WAS THE 65" TOOTH VERSION THAT WAS A NARROW BELT STYLED, I CAN'T REMEMBER SINCE I DON'T OWN THE FXR3 BIKE HAVEN'T THOUGHT ABOUT IT MUCH.

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« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 11:16:40 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #37 on: May 05, 2012, 10:08:30 AM »



THE NEXT FOUR PHOTOS HAVE BEEN DOWNLOADED AND WERE ROTATED BY THE SOFTWARE PROBABLY BECAUSE THEY ARE TOO TALL.....???  SO TO ORIENT YOURSELF YOU WILL HAVE TO TURN YOUR HEAD OR DOWN LOAD THE PHOTOS AND ROTATE ON YOUR END....LOL....COMPLICATED...I KNOW!!!

THE ORANGE MALLET WAS USED TO SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION TO REINSTALL THE SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT, AFTER YOU HAVE REPLACED THE OLD BELT WITH THE NEW ONE AND AFTER YOU HAVE REINSTALLED THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS.  SO REINSTALLING THE PIVOT SHAFT MEANS GETTING THE TRANSMISSION AND THE SWING ARM TO MATCH UP AGAIN TO SLIDE THE PIVOT SHAFT BACK THROUGH .  IT WAS A VERY EASY PROCESS USING THIS SIMPLE METHOD WITH THE ORANGE MALLET.....

BUT TO GO BACKWARDS HERE A BIT, WHEN YOU ARE TRYING TO REMOVE THE OLD BELT YOU MUST FIRST REMOVE THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS ON BOTH SIDES, WHICH WILL BE REQUIRED TO REMOVE THE BELT FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BIKE, BUT YOU NEED THE ENTIRE SWING ARM TO RELEASE FROM THE TRANSMISSION SO YOU HAVE TO REMOVE BOTH LOWER SHOCK BOLTS....ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS AND PUNCHED OUT THE SWING ARM PIVOT SHAFT THE SWING ARM WILL FALL AWAY FROM THE TRANSMISSION AND AT THE SAME TIME THE TRANSMISSION WILL DROP SEVERAL INCHES, HOWEVER, USING THE ORANGE MALLET CAN KEEP THE TRANSMISSION FROM DROPPING SEVERAL INCHES WITH THE MANIPULATION OF THE BIKE BEING ON A FLOOR JACK WHERE YOU CAN RAISE THE BIKE INDEPENDENT OF THE TRANSMISSION WHILE USING THE ORANGE MALLET AS A INDEPENDENT LEVERAGE POINT.  

I WOULD EITHER HAVE CARPET ON THE FLOOR OR CARDBOARD TO HELP PROTECT THAT SWING ARM WHEN IT DROPS....IT WOULDN'T HURT TO HAVE 4 HANDS DURING THIS PART OF THE PROCEDURE, WHEN THAT SWING ARM DROPS IT'S PRETTY HEAVY AND AWKWARD AND REMEMBER YOU HAVE THE REAR CALIPER THAT WANTS TO FALL OFF AS WELL....SO YOU WANT TO BE COGNIZANT OF KEEPING THAT FROM BANGING ON THE FLOOR, WHEN THIS SWING ARM DROPS ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU ARE GOING TO GO OH CRAP...LOL AND REALIZE YOUR PREDICAMENT.....THAT'S WHY ANOTHER SET OF HANDS CAN HELP...BECAUSE ALL YOU WANT TO DO IS PULL THAT SWING ARM OFF LONG ENOUGH TO GET THE OLD BELT OUT AND REINSTALL THE NEW ONE.....ONCE YOU GET THE NEW BELT AROUND THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET, THEN YOU ARE READY TO TRY TO GET THE SWING ARM BACK TOGETHER...BUT REMEMBER YOU NEED TO PUT ANTISEIZE ON THE PIVOT SHAFT....AND CHECK THE INNER PARTS IE: WAVE NYLON WASHERS, THE RUBBER MOUNTED SPACER/ISOLATORS BEFORE JUST PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER....SO AS YOU CAN SEE YOUR INCLINATION IS TO HURRY AND GET IT ALL BACK TOGETHER BUT RUSHING TO DO SO WILL KEEP YOU FROM SEARCHING OUT THE INTERNALS OF THE SWING ARM AND THEIR CONDITION.

JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND GET THE CONCEPT HERE AND YOU WILL FIGURE OUT YOUR BEST ORDER OF DOING THINGS....IT'S JUST THAT AT THIS STAGE A LOT IS HAPPENING....THE SWING ARM REMOVAL AND BELT INSTALLATION IS EASIER DONE WITH 4 HANDS.....BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE TO BE DONE BY ONLY TWO.  AS IN MOST THINGS AFTER YOU HAVE DONE THIS ONCE IT BECOMES A LOT CLEARER AND EASIER AS WELL.

JUST REMEMBER YOU CAN REMOVE THE PIVOT SHAFT WITHOUT REMOVING THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS BUT THE SWING ARM WILL NOT LOWER OR FALL WAY UNTIL YOU DO SO BUT YOU CAN NOT REMOVE THE SECONDARY BELT OR PUT THE NEW ONE ON UNLESS YOU ALLOW THAT SWING ARM TO FALL AWAY.  THE TRANSMISSION HOWEVER, WILL INDEED DROP DOWN A COUPLE OF INCHES JUST ENOUGH TO MISALIGN PUTTING THE PIVOT SHAFT BACK THROUGH IF REMOVED UNLESS YOU INDEPENDENTLY SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION (WHEN REMOVING THE PIVOT SHAFT) WHICH BRINGS US TO THE MERITS OF THE ORANGE MALLET WHICH CAN BE USED TO CONTROL THE TRANMISSIONS HEIGHT VIA USING YOUR FLOOR JACK TO RAISE OR LOWER THE BIKE INDEPENDENTLY.


whew

PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED

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« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 05:05:05 PM by FXR2evo99 »
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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #38 on: May 05, 2012, 10:09:00 AM »

THE "WAVEY" LOOKING WASHER THAT YOU SEE WITH THE SWING ARM PIVOT SHAFT COMING THROUGH IT IS THE NYLON SPACER WASHER WHICH IS A VERY THIN PLASTIC WASHER IT SEALS THE INTERNALS OF THE PIVOT SHAFT FROM DEBRIE I DISCOVERED THAT ONE OF MINE WAS PRETTY SHRADED SO I REPLACED ONE OF THEM THE OTHER ONE WAS FINE.....EVEN AFTER 13 YEARS.  THE SERVICE MANUAL CALLS FOR PUTTING ANTISEIZE ON THE PIVOT SHAFT AXLE WHICH I DID AS WELL.

PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED


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« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 05:04:11 PM by FXR2evo99 »
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FXR2evo99

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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #39 on: May 05, 2012, 10:09:33 AM »

CLOSE UP PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED

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« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 05:03:50 PM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #40 on: May 05, 2012, 10:10:09 AM »

CLOSE UP PHOTO SHOWING THE ISOLATOR IN POSITION, ALSO REFERRED IN YOUR PARTS BOOK AS A SPACER, AND THE SERVICE MANUAL AS A RUBBER MOUNT.  DIFFERENT NAMES BUT ALL THE SAME PART, SO CALL IT THE RUBBER MOUNT ISOLATOR SPACER.....LOL

PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED


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« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 05:05:33 PM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #41 on: May 05, 2012, 10:21:50 AM »

Will save this spot for some comments for later
« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 11:54:22 AM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #42 on: May 05, 2012, 10:22:16 AM »

will save this spot for some comments for later
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #43 on: May 05, 2012, 12:17:30 PM »


TO DO THIS PROJECT THERE ARE APPROXIMATELY 35 DIFFERENT TORQUE VALUES....IT TOOK ME 3-4 HOURS OF RESEARCH JUST TO ACCUMULATE THESE VALUES READING THROUGH THE MANUAL....YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW FRUSTRATING TO BE IN THE SHOP IS AND TO SAY NOW WHAT'S THAT TORQUE VALUE FOR THIS BOLT AND THEN TRY TO FIND IT.....SO HERE ARE SOME TORQUE VALUES:TORQUE VALUES FOR THE FOLLOWING;


REAR WHEEL SPROCKET BOLTS:
APPLY RED LOCKTITE
45-55 FT-LBS TORQUE

REAR WHEEL AXLE
CASTLE NUT:  (THE NUT THAT HAS THE COTTER PIN GO THROUGH IT)  
DO NOT EXCEED 65 LBS OF TORQUE BECAUSE OF WHEEL BEARING SEIZING
TIGHTEN CASLE NUT TO 60 FT-LBS TORQUE AND CHECK TO SEE IF THE COTTER PIN CAN BE INSTALLED.  IF REQUIRED TIGHTEN CASTLE NUT JUST ENOUGH TO ALIGN AXLE HOLE AND CASTLE NUT SLOTS, BUT DO NOT EXCEED 65 FT-LBS MAXIMUM TORQUE.

BOTTOM SHOCK BOLTS;
APPLY AVIATION GASKET CEMENT TO BOLTS  & 35-45 FT LBS TORQUE


PRIOR TO INSTALLATION OF INNER PRIMARY:

TRANSMISSION PULLEY:
REVERSE THREADS MEANING IT GOES ON COUNTERCLOCKWISE/LEFT HAND THREADS:
APPLY A DROP OF RED 262 LOCTITE  ON TRANSMISSION PULLEY NUT THEN TIGHTEN WITH IMPACT WRENCH TO A MAXIMUM OF 150LBS TORQUE
PAGE 6-13 FXR2 MANUAL SAYS DO NOT TIGHTEN THE TRANSMISSION PULLEY/SPROCKET TO MORE THAN 150 FT-LBS TORQUE

INTERESTING TO SEE WHAT DIFFERENT MANUALS SAID THROUGHOUT THE YEARS FOR EXAMPLE:
1993-1994 FLT/FXR SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-7 SAYS:
APPLY A DROP OF 262 RED LOCTITE AND TIGHTEN 110-120 FT-LBS BUT NEVER
TORQUE ABOVE 150 FT-LBS

TRANSMISSION PULLEY/SPROCKET LOCKPLATE ALLEN HEAD SCREWS:
THE SOCKET HEAD SCREWS HD# 3594 ALREADY HAVE A LOCKING COMPOUND THAT ALLOWS THEM TO BE REUSED UP TO THREE TIMES THE 4TH TIME THE SCREWS ARE REMOVED, REPLACE WITH NEW SCREWS.  OR IN MY CASE CLEAN THEM UP AND USE AVIATION GASKET CEMENT.
APPLY AVIATION GASKET CEMENT
THEN TIGHTEN SCREWS TO 84-108 IN-LBS OR 7-9 FT-LBS TORQUE


SHIFTER ROD LEVER SOCKET HEAD SCREW:
LOCATED ON SPLINES IN FRONT OF SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL
MAKE SURE THAT YOU LINE UP WHERE THE LEVER WAS BEFORE WITH THE SCORING DONE PRIOR TO REMOVAL.
TIGHTEN SCREW TO 18-21 FT-LBS TORQUE

INNER PRIMARY INSTALLATION (9 BOLTS IN ALL):
INNER PRIMARY CHAIN CASE BOLTS (4);
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-24
  MAKE SURE O~RING IS IN POSITION
  MAKE SURE YOU HAVE REPLACED TWO OTHER SEALS;
  STARTER JACKSHAFT SEAL AND INNER PRIMARY MAINSHAFT OIL SEAL

INSTALL BOTH OUTER BOLTS AND WASHERS TO THE FRONT OF THE BIKE WHICH ARE OUTSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY THEN INSTALL THE TWO BOLTS WITH LOCKTABS INSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY AND TIGHTEN ALL FOUR BOLTS IN THE PATTERN BELOW 18-21 FT LBS TORQUE.  PUT RTV/AVIATION GASKET CEMENT ON BOTH INTERIOR PRIMARY BOLTS.

3              2
                                                              6
                                        5                      

1              4



INNER PRIMARY CHAIN CASE BOLTS (2)
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-24
3” LONG INTO THE INNER PRIMARY LOCATION (NUMBER 5 & 6 ABOVE)
APPLY RTV/AVIATION GASKET CEMENT TO THESE 2 ADDITIONAL BOLTS AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TO 18-21 FT LBS TORQUE.

« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 12:19:33 PM by FXR2evo99 »
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Re: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION:
« Reply #44 on: May 05, 2012, 12:18:21 PM »

STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS (2):
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 5-16
INSTALL THE TWO STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS AND WASHERS INTO THE BACK OF THE INNER PRIMARY FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BIKE.  APPLY AVIATION GASKET CEMENT THEN TIGHTEN STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS TO 13-21 FT-LBS.

GROUND CABLE BOLT (1):
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-24
TO BE INSTALLED WITH APPROPRIATE WASHER AND LOCKWASHER AND TIGHTENED TO 18 - 21 FT LBS TORQUE.


STARTER JACKSHAFT:
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 5-27
BE SURE THE LOCKPLATE PROTRUSION IS STICKING INTO THE KEYWAY.
PAGE 5-28  LOOK AT FIGURE 5-31
TO PROPERLY INSTALL JACKSHAFT;
INSTALL JACKSHAFT LOCKPLATE AND BOLT.  HOLD PINION GEAR IN PLACE AND TIGHTEN JACKSHAFT BOLT TO 84-108” IN-LBS TORQUE.  BEND TAB ON LOCKPLATE AGAINST FLAT OF BOLT HEAD TO SECURE.


INSTALL COMPENSATING SPROCKET AND SHAFT EXTENSION ASSEMBLY, CHAIN, CLUTCH SHELL BASKET AS A SINGLE ASSEMBLY . THE CLUTCH HUB AND SHAFT EXTENSION ARE SPLINED, SO A SLIGHT ROTATION OF THE CHAIN DRIVE WIL AID IN THE LINING UP OF THE SPLINES.

PLACE SLIDING CAM OVER SHAFT EXTENSION. SLIDE SPROCKET COVER OVER SLIDING CAM.

PLACE TRANSMISSION IN 5TH GEAR AND APPLY REAR BRAKE.

APPLY 2 DROPS OF 262 RED LOCTITE TO THE THREADS OF THE COMPENSATING SPROCKET NUT AND TIGHTEN IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION 1 1/2” SOCKET 150-165 FT-LBS TORQUE.

APPLY 2 DROPS OF 262 RED LOCTITE TO THE THREADS OF THE CLUTCH SHELL BASKET HUB MAINSHAFT NUT.  INSTALL NUT AND HAND TIGHTEN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION 1 3/16” SOCKET 70-80 FT LBS TORQUE.

CHAIN TENSIONER BOLTS:
    FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 1-27
    FREE PLAY IN THE UPPER STRAND SHOULD BE 5/8” - 7/8” WITH COLD ENGINE
CENTER BOLT NUT:  21-29 FT LBS

CHAIN TENSIONER SHOE BOTTOM 2 BOLTS
NO TORQUE NUMBERS PROVIDED


CLUTCH SHELL BASKET/CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT:
CLUTCH ADJUSTER SCREW:
CLUTCH ADJUSTER JAM NUT TIGHTEN TO 72’-120” IN-LBS TORQUE
    

REAR SWING ARM PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE) INSTALLATION:
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 2-70

THE PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE) GETS COATED WITH ANTISEIZE

SLIDE RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATER) ONTO PIVOT SHAFT.  THE SMALL DIAMETER BOSS ON THE RUBBER MOUNT MUST FACE OUTWARD WITH THE PIN HOLD AT THE TOP (SO THAT IT ALIGNS WITH THE PIN CAST IN THE PASSENGER  FOOTBOARD/REAR SWING ARM BRACKET END CAPS

SLIDE NYLON SPACER (HD# 47513-80) ONTO PIVOT SHAFT WITH SMALLER DIAMETER BOSS FACING INSIDE TOWARD THE SWING ARM.

FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF BIKE INSERT PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE) INTO SWING ARM AND TRANSMISSION MOUNT.

ON LEFT SIDE OF BIKE, INSTALL NYLON SPACER (HD# 47513-80), RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATOR) AND CUP WASHER ONTO PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE), INTSALL NUT UNTIL FINGER TIGHT. REMEMBER TO PROPERLY ORIENT THE LEFT SIDE RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATOR) AND NYLON SPACER AS PREVIOUSLY DESCRIBED.

HOLD RIGHT SIDE NUT ON THE PIVOT SHAFT AND TIGHTEN LEFT SIDE PIVOT SHAFT LOCKNUT TO 40-45 FT-LBS TORQUE

OBSERVING “LEFT” AND “RIGHT” STAMP ON CASTING, INSTALL REAR SWING ARM END CAP BRACKETS FITTING THE CAST PIN IN RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATOR) HOLE.

INSTALL TWO BOLTS WITH LOCKWASHERS TO SECURE END CAP BRACKETS TO BIKE FRAME. TIGHTEN SWING ARM END CAP BRACKET BOLTS TO 34-42 FT LBS TORQUE.

NOTE:
REMOVE THE DECORATIVE CHROME PLUGS IN THE REAR SWINGARM END CAP BRACKETS AND CHECK TORQUE ON THE PIVOT SHAFT LOCKNUT EVERY 5,000 MILES


DRIVE BELT TENSION  
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 1-34:
CHECK THAT THE DRIVE BELT TOP STRAND DEFLECTS 3/8” - 1/2” WHILE APPLYING 10 LBS OF FORCE UPWARD

10 OUTER PRIMARY SCREWS (10):  9FT LBS
CLUTCH INSPECTION COVER/DERBY COVER (5):  9FT LBS
PRIMARY CHAIN INSPECTION COVER SCREWS (4) WHERE OUR SHIFTER COMES THROUGH: 9 FT LBS

BE CAREFUL YOU CAN STRIP THESE SCREWS EASILY 9 FT LBS IS ALSO EQUAL TO 108 IN-LBS SO DON'T EXCEED THIS MUCH.

I PERSONALLY USE AVIATION GASKET CEMENT ON MY BOLTS WHENEVER BLUE LOCTITE IS CALLED FOR AS A SUBSTITUTE TO KEEP CORROSION FROM OCCURING....IT'S A GREAT PRODUCT MADE BY PERMATEX CAN GET IT A NAPA.  IT'S ALSO REFERRED TO AS FORM A GASKET....

THE OUTER PRIMARY SCREWS CAN BE STRIPPED EASILY BY CORROSION SO USING THIS PRODUCT CAN BE A TREMENDOUS BENEFIT.....


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