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[guppytrash]

Just a thought, what about using an impact wrench rather than a drill?  Maybe I will give it a try if I can ever get the bit.
I ordered from ebay diamondbladesrus on Sept 26 and now October 7 and still no bit.  

[Guilty]

Just a thought, what about using an impact wrench rather than a drill?  Maybe I will give it a try if I can ever get the bit.
I ordered from ebay diamondbladesrus on Sept 26 and now October 7 and still no bit.  

You are going to need a drill.

[Jim Kerr]

Just a thought, what about using an impact wrench rather than a drill?  Maybe I will give it a try if I can ever get the bit.
I ordered from ebay diamondbladesrus on Sept 26 and now October 7 and still no bit.  

You need a coring bit.  An impact will fracture the cat and cause a big mess.  It would be nearly impossible to clean out without cutting your header. 

[Texas 103]

Just a thought, what about using an impact wrench rather than a drill?  Maybe I will give it a try if I can ever get the bit.
I ordered from ebay diamondbladesrus on Sept 26 and now October 7 and still no bit.  

They are a bit slow, took me about 10 days , worth the wait, good bit..Greg

[Carlos Silva]

my 2 cents...buy a good 'corded' drill before takin' on the cat!!!...you know you need one, I borrowed an old inferior one from a friend that wasn't gonna make it to the end... seems many of us have tossed the old Black & Deckers and are solely relying on our battery packed ones for all our needs...love my new drill, $100 bucks at Lowes, killer torque

[SPIDERMAN]

my 2 cents...buy a good 'corded' drill before takin' on the cat!!!...you know you need one, I borrowed an old inferior one from a friend that wasn't make it to the end... seems many of us have tossed the old Black & Deckers and are solely relying on our battery packed ones for all our needs...love my new drill, $100 bucks at Lowes, killer torque

I've got a 35 year old Milwaukee industrial 1/2" (w/cord) that about breaks your wrists when it fetches up on something. It's got more torque than most crotch rockets 

B B

[eddfive]

O2 sensors will fit in snugly where the factory sensors go.  Most header pipes have O2 Bungs in them now.  Most companies(except V&H) have placed them in such a place you can get to them with an O2 sensor removal socket or can get to it with a 7/8" wrench.  Factory headers, D&D, Rinehart and most the others have figured this out. There is no problem with the seal as all the sensors have a metal crushable gasket on them that will snug right up to the O2 bung.  The issue is that sometimes the factory runs them in tight and it may take a little effort to get them out.  You can tell if they bind so I sometimes have to lubricate the threads and run them back in and out.  If you ever put new headers pipes on make sure to run a tap in the O2 bung as most of them will chrome the pipe after the bungs are installed.  The bung threads will have Chromed up as well making the O2 sensor "gaul" on removal.  ALWAYS USE ANTI-SEIZE when putting plugs or O2 sensors back in.  You also do not need to overtighten them, just snug up plus a little.  If a bike has O2 bungs and I can get my sensors in there I always try to tune this way.  The copper tubes and vacuum pump method work but also can be problematic with the cooper tube collapsing under the heat.  I really have to pay attention to this to make sure readings are consistent.  Either method will yield good AFR data you just have to pay attention.  One more little thing that can get overlooked is that these wide band O2 sensors used for tuning need to be calibrated in free-air before each bike.  Keeps the data consistent.

[guppytrash]

Thanks for all the replies.   I was only thinking of the impact to spin the core bit with a socket set up like Carlos has in the picture above.  I guess to much hammer affect is what you are thinking.  Probably not smooth enough. 

Texas 103 did you get your bit from diamondbladesrus on ebay and was it this one?

   1.5" Premium WET Diamond Core Drill Bit "Brand New"
MY CORE BITS HAVE 10MM SEG. HGT. VS 6-8 MM LIKE MOST!

If it is the same one, glad to hear it works good.


Thanks Greg

[Robmay]

O2 sensors will fit in snugly where the factory sensors go.  Most header pipes have O2 Bungs in them now.  Most companies(except V&H) have placed them in such a place you can get to them with an O2 sensor removal socket or can get to it with a 7/8" wrench.  Factory headers, D&D, Rinehart and most the others have figured this out. There is no problem with the seal as all the sensors have a metal crushable gasket on them that will snug right up to the O2 bung.  The issue is that sometimes the factory runs them in tight and it may take a little effort to get them out.  You can tell if they bind so I sometimes have to lubricate the threads and run them back in and out.  If you ever put new headers pipes on make sure to run a tap in the O2 bung as most of them will chrome the pipe after the bungs are installed.  The bung threads will have Chromed up as well making the O2 sensor "gaul" on removal.  ALWAYS USE ANTI-SEIZE when putting plugs or O2 sensors back in.  You also do not need to overtighten them, just snug up plus a little.  If a bike has O2 bungs and I can get my sensors in there I always try to tune this way.  The copper tubes and vacuum pump method work but also can be problematic with the cooper tube collapsing under the heat.  I really have to pay attention to this to make sure readings are consistent.  Either method will yield good AFR data you just have to pay attention.  One more little thing that can get overlooked is that these wide band O2 sensors used for tuning need to be calibrated in free-air before each bike.  Keeps the data consistent.

Very good info Edd. Thanks for taking the time to post it!

[guppytrash]

Spiderman

This cracked me up.  I going to send this to one of my sportbike buddies.  Wife just walked by and asked, "what are laughing at?"

I've got a 35 year old Milwaukee industrial 1/2" (w/cord) that about breaks your wrists when it fetches up on something. It's got more torque than most crotch rockets 

By the way how do you get the qoute boxes? 

Greg

[Carlos Silva]

By the way how do you get the qoute boxes? 

Greg, after you click 'reply', scroll down below the area where you type to find the 'Topic Summary' area, at the right of each post you'll see an 'Insert Quote' for each of the posts, just click on the one you want to show, then you can cut them down or highlight them or whatever...works real good once you get the hang of it

[Robmay]

Greg, after you click 'reply', scroll down below the area where you type to find the 'Topic Summary' area, at the right of each post you'll see an 'Insert Quote' for each of the posts, just click on the one you want to show, then you can cut them down or highlight them or whatever...works real good once you get the hang of it

Or, if you want to just quote the whole thing like I just did, click the quote button in the upper right hand corner of that persons post on the topic page.

[sblair]

Well, I'm jumping on the band wagon but there are no core drill bits to be had!  Should be in stock next week!

[Robmay]

They got one at Graingers I could have in one day for $110....think I'll wait a bit.

[guppytrash]

Mine is OUT!  Just a few details that might help the next guy.
The entire cc in mine measured just 5 inches, I think some have been up to 7 inches long.
I used thread cutting oil to cool the bit...went about a half inch at a time.  Then dunked the bit in the bowl full of thread cutting oil to cool. 
The bolt is a 3" long 5/8 thread bolt with a 15/16 socket to fit.  My core bit is 1.5" X 17" from ebay.
20+ year old black and decker drill did just fine.
Place some towels over the wheel and brake disc, I did not want any of the cutting oil on the disc.  Then started without the muffler to blow the crap out...surprised to see no debri at all.   
Little stinky and smokey until I got the cutting oil burned out.