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[LETS_ROLL]

I agrre with HOGMIKE.  I did the coring removal then I cut it in half and totally removed it.  It is much easier and faster to cut and remove than coring it.  As long as you have a saw and welder, wich I didn't but what are friends for.  A six pack and it was done.  Let's Roll

[laynlow]

All the people trying this method are going the hard way IMO. You may still be able to salvage your header.
Just cut the sucker in half, clean out the guts, weld it back together, you can't see the weld under the heat shield anyway! I know there are a  couple ways to "gut a cat", but this way is the best and easiest, all you need is a welder.....they are  all over the place.
Think of the time and money involved.

My dealer came up with a 09 96" headpipe take off and there holding it aside for me untill my D&D's arrive. I'm going with the D&D slip-ons, SERT, SE hi-flow aircleaner and dyno for now. Leaving for the Smokey's in a couple of weeks and want to make sure I get some riding time in before heading out. Maybe, over the winter I'll consider new cams and possibly a tweek of the OE heads, maybe. . .

[Highjagger]

The next step requires a 1.6" coring drill bit that is 14" long.  You can get one of these form McGillis Warehouse for $25 + shipping. 

http://mcgillswarehouse.com/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemID=154120006&IN=SILVERBRAZEDDRILLBIT,14

This bit is designed for drilling concrete and has a 5/8" UNC shaft for accepting a chuck.  This is a lot bigger than anything I own, so I purchased a 5/8" rod with UNC threads from Home Depot.  I cut it to a more reasonable length and mounted it to the bit with a nut and lock washer.  I ground down the end sticking out of the bit to get it to fit my 3/4" drill chuck. 

It is not possible to get such a coring drill bit here in germany .
Would one of you send his one to me ?
( Your used one when it is possible to use it again or a new one ?
For sure i will pay for it and i will also pay the shipping costs )
Please make a remark outside the box : " used motorcycle-part just for demo and for free - gratis "
My adress as PN ( paypal or how you want )
My adress :

[LarryB]

It is not possible to get such a coring drill bit here in germany .
Would one of you send his one to me ?
( Your used one when it is possible to use it again or a new one ?
For sure i will pay for it and i will also pay the shipping costs )
Please make a remark outside the box : " used motorcycle-part just for demo and for free - gratis "
My adress as PN ( paypal or how you want )
My adress :

I have one available

[dartman]

( Your used one when it is possible to use it again or a new one ?


HJ, Ive been using the same bit since 06 its been used probably 30 times and still cuts fine.

[Highjagger]

Then i have to invite you to visit me for a few days to make holidays here .
( please bring your bit with you ) .
 I have a complete appartement in my house that i leave empty for guests .
With bathroom , bedroom , living room and kitchen .
Feel free to use it .
 It would be a pleasure for me and my wife and our doggy . 

[FLSTFI Dave]

All the people trying this method are going the hard way IMO. You may still be able to salvage your header.
Just cut the sucker in half, clean out the guts, weld it back together, you can't see the weld under the heat shield anyway! I know there are a  couple ways to "gut a cat", but this way is the best and easiest, all you need is a welder.....they are  all over the place.
Think of the time and money involved.

Yep, just cut it in half, gut all of the cat and weld it.

Cutting it in half gets all the cat out, the core bit gets maybe 1/3 out at most and is still very restrictive.

why are you coring the head pip, I thought this process was let go in favor of the total removal

So did I.

Once you have cut one it is clear why it is the prefered method, faster and much more open. 

Even if you have to pay some one to cut and weld, you are looking at less than an hours work, 30 dollars tops.

[Highjagger]

But one could see the weld when removing the heat shield and then they have an argument to complain about ( the police )
When the cat is cored out , you can`t see it without removing the hole pipe .
For germany , this way is the better one , i guess .

[fourstar]

Someone on this board, I forgot whom, cut the collector at the original welds, removed the cat and re-welded it.  I haven't seen the result but as I recall the claim was that it was undetectable.  I doubt if the German police see enough CVO's to know if a pipe has been cut and welded anyway. 

[HOGMIKE]

But one could see the weld when removing the heat shield and then they have an argument to complain about ( the police )
When the cat is cored out , you can`t see it without removing the hole pipe .
For germany , this way is the better one , i guess .

#
OR.........you could purchase a stock head pipe for the 96" 48 state bikes, no weld marks,, you still have your cat pipe for the German police. California will have smog checks in the next few years. I elected to keep my cat head pipe, installed a non-cat head pipe, Fullsac cores in the mufflers (still have the stock part # on the mufflers, head pipe, etc.
I understand your pain, California is about the same as Germany as far as EPA requirements!
I have all my stock parts for the future.
Hope this helps.

[Highjagger]

But with a 96cui 48state cat-free header i wouldn`t have the automatic exhaust-control ,
the police know hat there have to be one since 2007 and they would check first and see that there is none , ( mine is deactivated , allways open by software from dealer , but the police can`t check this - mostly ) .+
So the best would be to core the cat out .
I was thinking about this since january - best way for me i guess .

[HOGMIKE]

But with a 96cui 48state cat-free header i wouldn`t have the automatic exhaust-control ,
the police know hat there have to be one since 2007 and they would check first and see that there is none , ( mine is deactivated , allways open by software from dealer , but the police can`t check this - mostly ) .+
So the best would be to core the cat out .
I was thinking about this since january - best way for me i guess .

I could be wrong, but, I think the ex. control is after the collector. It has been awhile since I looked in the parts book.
It could be changed with the '09's? because of the new exhaust system?
The core option will only remove about 50% of the material due to the configuration of the catalyst inside the oval collector. It will help, none the less.

[Highjagger]

The exhaust contro is located at the end of the header , after the crossover-pipe .
But i don`t know yet how to remove it , but removing the ex-control is necessary for coring the Cat , and remount the ex-contro afterwards again .
I don`t know even whether a 1.6" is small enough because it is getting a little more narrow at theis point of the ex-control.
So i guess that a 1.5" core-bit would be better for me .
But such a drill is not available here in germany , i found nothing nowhere .

[FLSTFI Dave]

The exhaust contro is located at the end of the header , after the crossover-pipe .
But i don`t know yet how to remove it , but removing the ex-control is necessary for coring the Cat , and remount the ex-contro afterwards again .
I don`t know even whether a 1.6" is small enough because it is getting a little more narrow at theis point of the ex-control.
So i guess that a 1.5" core-bit would be better for me .
But such a drill is not available here in germany , i found nothing nowhere .

why not cut the pipe at the cat, remove all the cat, and weld back together.  This gets all the cat out, better performance and sill leaves the exhaust control.....

the weld is hidden by your heat shields

[Highjagger]

I do not really trust a welded pipe and the dealers are " mystirious " about such things here in germany , the next step for them would be to make nothing further for warranty works when there would be a case of it .