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[DrSpencer]

2011 FLXH 103" Street Glide w/38K miles

I bought the bike new and immediately put in SE255's (using stock lifters & pushrods), then V-Tuned with TTS

Bike runs great, no valve train noise, etc.

If I decide to swap the lifters, can I reuse my SE255 cams that have 38K miles on them?

Thanks

[Twolanerider]

2011 FLXH 103" Street Glide w/38K miles

I bought the bike new and immediately put in SE255's (using stock lifters & pushrods), then V-Tuned with TTS

Bike runs great, no valve train noise, etc.

If I decide to swap the lifters, can I reuse my SE255 cams that have 38K miles on them?

Thanks

Roller lifters don't slide or generate other mated specific wear patters.  So, so long as all the parts look ok, you're good to go.

[DrSpencer]

Roller lifters don't slide or generate other mated specific wear patters.  So, so long as all the parts look ok, you're good to go.

Good to know.

What about reusing the stock push rods, that have 37K on them?

Thanks

[timo482]

you can continue to reuse stock pushrods as long as there is little wear on them. the only part that needs regular replacement is the lifters themselves due to random issues with the roller needle bearings.

[timo482]

now that twin cams are getting a bit old they really are very reliable with a few specific things to watch out for. post 2007 lifters is number one, cranks are number two for big power builds, and compensators. i changed the inner cam bearings since it was apart. i replace all seals and bearings on any assembly i have to take apart. i changed the compensator because there was one worn part, no way to get a new one, i had to remove the compensator when changing the rear gear ratio. lifters every 20 or so and they last. a friend has a 88. put the 95 kit in new. installed a gear drive cam when the rear cam bearing issue surfaced. has just ridden it since - well over 100,000 miles with no other actual work other than a rear brake cartridge, brake pads, tires, and a couple of batteries.  my 07 had a couple of immediate problems .. got the cylinders bored, new pistons and rings at 500 miles from poor seal. and its been trouble free - sidecar since new so its loaded real good and there are no issues "knock on wood"

[DrSpencer]

From what I gather from this thread, it seems like the 110" motors (that came stock w/SE255's) are more prone to lifter failure than my 103" (which I put SE255's in), is this correct?

Thanks

[Finster101]

From what I gather from this thread, it seems like the 110" motors (that came stock w/SE255's) are more prone to lifter failure than my 103" (which I put SE255's in), is this correct?

Thanks

From what I have read here the root of the 110 lifter issues are the very heavy springs in the heads.  I'm sure someone much more knowledgeable will chime in.

[HD Street Performance]

There is more to the story. The springs are not that heavy, seat pressure, but are a little stout going over the nose. Common so called "fix" is change to beehives. Well now you have reversed the problem, too much seat pressure with stock protrusion and they only have a single spring. Single point of failure if a spring breaks.

So what's the story?
Not a single component is the root cause, it is a poorly engineered system. The cam, albeit produces good low end torque, has overly fast ramps. The springs have too high of a spring rate. The pushrods are too weak and flex with the added pressure. The lifters are low quality and bleed off too fast and have a low MTBF. The top end valve train weight, the components, are heavy. Everybody wants to just click here or push button there. Something that can be done in the garage over a weekend by average joe mechanic. It is not that easy to fix all of that unfortunately. There is a way however to get to the low hanging fruit.

First what that doesn't include:

• A new cam plate and oil pump unless the OE parts are worn
• Same comment on tensioners and tensioner pads and all the oil relief valve gizmos and pressure adders

Suggestions:

• Remove the heads or use a Nub tool and change the valve springs. I have a nice .650 lift dual spring that is much lighter weight, rate and seat pressure lower than stock dual, and uses a tool steel retainer. 140# seat 360# open @.550"
• Change the cam to one with reasonable ramps which are most modern grinds today but some are better than others
• Change the lifters, I prefer Morel because they are made in the USA and I test them. They have the lowest bleed down rate of any I have tested and can be rebuilt, but who would for the cost of a new set.
• Change the pushrods to a premium 7/16" tapered pushrod, adjustable, again I sell these
• Set the preload to .100
• Motor on.

Hope that helps.

[DrSpencer]

There is more to the story. The springs are not that heavy, seat pressure, but are a little stout going over the nose. Common so called "fix" is change to beehives. Well now you have reversed the problem, too much seat pressure with stock protrusion and they only have a single spring. Single point of failure if a spring breaks.

So what's the story?
Not a single component is the root cause, it is a poorly engineered system. The cam, albeit produces good low end torque, has overly fast ramps. The springs have too high of a spring rate. The pushrods are too weak and flex with the added pressure. The lifters are low quality and bleed off too fast and have a low MTBF. The top end valve train weight, the components, are heavy. Everybody wants to just click here or push button there. Something that can be done in the garage over a weekend by average joe mechanic. It is not that easy to fix all of that unfortunately. There is a way however to get to the low hanging fruit.

First what that doesn't include:

• A new cam plate and oil pump unless the OE parts are worn
• Same comment on tensioners and tensioner pads and all the oil relief valve gizmos and pressure adders

Suggestions:

• Remove the heads or use a Nub tool and change the valve springs. I have a nice .650 lift dual spring that is much lighter, rate and seat pressure, than stock, dual, and uses a tool steel retainer. 140# seat 360# open @.550"
• Change the cam to one with reasonable ramps which are most modern grinds today but some are better than others
• Change the lifters, I prefer Morel because they are made in the USA and I test them. They have the lowest bleed down rate of any I have tested and can be rebuilt, but who would for the cost of a new set.
• Change the pushrods to a premium 7/16" tapered pushrod, adjustable, again I sell these
• Set the preload to .100
• Motor on.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the detailed response.

Given the choice, which cam would you choose for a stock 103", SE255 or TTS 100?

Aren't these two cams almost the same grind?

Thanks

[HD Street Performance]

The TTS 100 is a fixed SE255. Does everything the SE255 does but doesn't hammer the valve train
Valve Spring Info Here
The SE CVO spring is very similar to the CompCams 977

[DrSpencer]

The TTS 100 is a fixed SE255. Does everything the SE255 does but doesn't hammer the valve train
Valve Spring Info Here
The SE CVO spring is very similar to the CompCams 977

Would the valve train of a stock 103" tolerate swapping in just TTS 100 cams & new lifters (no springs) without worry?

Thanks

[HD Street Performance]

Yes assuming we are talking about a 2008up non-CVO 103.

[DrSpencer]

Yes assuming we are talking about a 2008up non-CVO 103.

Good to know, I have a 2011 FLHX

Bike presently has 38K miles. I'll probably do TTS100 cams, cam bearings, & lifters when I do a 40K service. I imagine I'll go in through the top, so I'll be reusing the stock push rods. Unless someone can make a case why I should not.

At 40K miles, besides breathers, is there anything else I should be replacing/addressing while I have the cam chest open?

Thanks

[timo482]

but does that tts 100 cam require a tune and tuner?

im getting in the habit of changing lifters every so often.. the tuner is real money unless it does something else magical.

a ramp fixed cam that would lower wear is a really great thing.... but its a lot of money on the retirement string

[DrSpencer]

but does that tts 100 cam require a tune and tuner?

im getting in the habit of changing lifters every so often.. the tuner is real money unless it does something else magical.

a ramp fixed cam that would lower wear is a really great thing.... but its a lot of money on the retirement string

Yes. Any different grind cam would require a new tune.

My bike, with SE255's, is already married to a TTS tuner.

Thanks