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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin' Eagle® Road Glide® => Topic started by: Big C. on February 20, 2012, 10:14:55 PM
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Heres a few pics I've taken during the modifications to my FLTRSE3. Thanks for all the input and advice along the way. Here she is stock on the lift.
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The tear down with the D&D ghost pipe set in place.
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12" OEM Monkey bars.
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Side shot.
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Oil temp gauge, ran the wiring under the tank a little cleaner than on the down tubes.
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Cam chest tear down.
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Timken/Torrington cam bearings.
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Assembled SE support plate with Woods TW7-H cams and LMR spring.
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Completed Cam chest with SE oil pump inside.
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Woods directional lifters.
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Lifters in place.
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Ceramic coated D&D Boss 2 into 1.
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Changed out gauge light bulbs with these LED's wow what a difference.
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Heres a pic showing the difference of the stock bulb Vs. the LED's.
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Installed Bi-Xeon HID's along with Hush mat acoustic treatment. I was able to save the inspector sticker/label and placed it over the Hush mat.
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6000K HID light check.
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Installed the garage door opener.
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Grabbed the power for the opener from the unused headlight socket due to the HID kit only used one of the light sockets.
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Used the 2012 CVO Road Glide 5x7 speaker grills and disassembled them and modified them to install JL Audio's C5 5x7 and tweeter component system.
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Tucked the large JL crossovers under the right glove box. Had to notch out the covers to allow me to install the wires after I mounted them due to the covers are just touching the glove box. Ran all the wires into a wireloom to neaten it up a little.
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Speakers just fit. had to cut some of the speaker frame off for clearance to reinstall the outer.
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Hawg Wired 1502 amp is what I chose for the power source.
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Ran an all in one IPod/IPhone power and audio cable in to the right glove box.
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The connector was made by Simple and has a video lead as well. Could be utilized with an after market deck if I decide to change it out. Capped it off with a green rubber boot for now.
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Nice mods all. Great attention to detail!
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The 5x7's really fill up the RG's speaker grill and sound much better than the Focal K2 6 1/2 I ran last year. The 5x7's produce a lot more bass you can actually fell a little thump in the seat and running boards while sitting on the bike with the motor not running of course.
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Kury plate frame drilled and bolted. I made up a douche connector and reused the plastic cover behind the fender so it plugs right into the factory pigtail and looks some what stock.
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Plate came out ok. I think its a touch to far left but its close. Covered the hole and the lower dimple so I was happy. Also painted the inside tips of the ghost pipe and muffler black. Got sick of cleaning and polishing the muffler tip to match the chromed ghost tip.
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Thats most of them. I'm in the middle of a few small things now I'll post pics as soon as their done.
THX again Cory
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Nice mods all. Great attention to detail!
Thanks Earlybuy, I've seen some pics you posted of your bike and you take it to the next level with the details. Great mods and ideas. For example if i remember corectley you had your turn signals gold and chrome plated!
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Great pictures and report, Cory! That is a bike to be proud of. :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
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Thanks for sharing, nice bike !!
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sweet. :2vrolijk_21:
TN
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Wow...I am impressed. That is some nice work. :2vrolijk_21: :orange: :mango: :cucumber: :pineapple: :pepper:
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Thanks for all the kind words everyone.
Cory
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Nice SERG Big C. Like the LED's.
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Great Job! Thanks for sharing
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Performance Machine XL grips
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Got a chrome starter put in for a 50.00 up charge due to the original black one peeled! Also painted all the raw motor bolts granite along with the neutral switch and chromed covered all the other bolts.
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Granite head bridges.
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Billet front motor mount with chrome linkage and hardware.
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Cory,
You've done an excellent, detailed job...well done! :2vrolijk_21:
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Very well done....Can you share the model # of the license plate set-up please?
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No problem the Kury part number was 9182 and the new superseeded number is 9255 either will work I paid $93.49 for my kit. Just follow this link to Fireguy's earlier post http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34963.90 (http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34963.90) hope this helps.
Cory
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Thank you so much brother.
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Gave the front end a little attention this winter as well. Chrome allen plugs and chrome bolt covers on the calipers, Chrome front axle mounting hardware kit and chrome rotor bolts. Getting to the end here of this years winter projects just a couple more things on the punch list will post them up when complete.
Cory
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Close up.
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Nice mods Big C :2vrolijk_21: About ready to do some of the same ones you just did myself. My biggest decision is whether to go with the 10 or 12 inch yaffes. Would you have a pic or could you take a pic of you on the bike so I can get an idea of shoulder position?......Thanks...Grandpa
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Bike is on the lift still, hoping to have it buttoned up this weekend. I'll post up a pic for ya grandpa when I get her back on the ground.
Cory
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Bike is on the lift still, hoping to have it buttoned up this weekend. I'll post up a pic for ya grandpa when I get her back on the ground.
Cory
:2vrolijk_21: Thanks alot Cory, Have a great day!!
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You are the MAN :2vrolijk_21: Great mods ::)
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Cory would you mind taking a picture of the oil gauge (with another gauge in the picture) to get an idea of how the lights look with leds.
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Fireguy this ones for you. The spun aluminum oil temp gauge looks very close to the stock gauges until they are illuminated. The oil temp gauge has no backlighting so the numbers on the gauge face don't glow. Their is only a halo of light that illuminates the gauge face. The LED's are brighter than stock which allow the gauge to be read at night with no problems. I knew this going forward with this mod and felt the small cosmetic difference well out weighed the convince of having accurate oil temp at a glance. Took this pic in dim light with no flash to help show the contrast a little better. Hope this helps.
Cory
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Sorry my bad the pic above was before the LED upgrade heres a fresh pic with the new bulbs. Makes a good before and after comparison for ya.
Cory
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Cory, thanks so much for the pics. LED's make a Huge difference.
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Well looks like money time again. Those leds are kickin. Your whole project looks great.
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Cory: Awesome project. I hope they're not too bright in the pitch dark.
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Thanks Eagleye, I think the shutter setting on the camera enhanced the effect a little. They illuminate perfect with out blinding or distracting me while riding at night but I find I also can read the gauges easier with a quick glance. But I wouldn't go any brighter.
Cory
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Corey,
Great work on your mods ! Did you put LED's in your speedo and tach gauges ?
Thanks..... Easyrider
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Last thing Cory, where did you get your lights and how tough was it installing the cams on your own? Looking at doing the same with Fullsac kit.
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I found them at Super Bright LED's. Part number and web sight is shown in this pic. The bulb I choose has 4 perimeter LED's and 1 forward facing LED. The cam chest work took me forever, I would not say it was easy. I needed to borrow a few specialty tools to get the project done. I did a lot of research here on this sight and along with the service manual and instructions from some after market vendors and good friends I got her done. I had to go into the chest a couple of times due to over looking a few steps. For example I'll finish my thread here and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Cory
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One step forward three steps back! Back in again.
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Decided to remove the LMR spring I installed. It didn't help quite the valve train and felt the extra oil pressure was just to high for my comfort.
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Went back to the stock spring and made sure the end coil lined up properly with the roll pin and also installed the roll pin split facing away from the spring.
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I felt with the addition of the SE High Volume Oil Pump it would generate enough oil pressure and volume on its own. Again this is just my personal opinion.
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I also forgot to make sure the cam gears were level/plumb. I think this how to describe this. You need to make sure with a straight edge that it touches both cam gears. I forgot to do this the first go around. Good thing I doubled checked because I did need to change the rear cam shim from the supplied .130 to a .140 to achieve this. Shims are shown below on the cam plate. Basically it's a washer that sits over the end of the cams to space out the cam gears.
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I almost didn't do this step. Was afraid of what I was going to find. I checked the crank run out. The crank run out was just under 5 thousands. It could of been a lot worse I guess considering the new factory allowable spec is now 12 thousands!!! After learning this I decided to not use the oil pump install guide pins I used the first time and rather let it float into it's natural position on the crank in hope to prolong the oil pump life.
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Also changed the jam nuts on my SE tapered Adj. pushrods to a high quality grade 8 nuts due to the original nuts have been known to split!
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My quality control expert approved.
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And of course I had to add a little OCD touch. Billet Chrome Pushrod tubes. They don't show to well in this pic but it was a nice finishing touch.
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That's all I got guys. I'm done till next winter and she off the lift and all back together. Time to ride!
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Done and ready to roll.
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Oh Grandpa, I didn't forget ya heres a pic showing me on the bike for your handle bar project. Again these are the 12" OEM Monkey Bars and I'm 6"3 with a 32" inseam. Bars are perfect for me my arms are just under straight out. Very comfortable for all day riding. Good luck with your mods.
Cory
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Very nice job. Hope it works out well for you. Had to order the leds.
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Once I get this beast out of the garage and into the sunlight I post up a few more pics of the finished results. Thanks again for all the help from the members on this sight and a good friend that watched over my shoulder and steered me back on course when I needed guidance. Hope this thread will give members some info and ideas for their Mods, oh and I'm not responsible for the money that might vanish out of your wallet after reading this thread.
Thanks again everyone,
Cory
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Corey,
Great work on your mods ! Did you put LED's in your speedo and tach gauges ?
Thanks..... Easyrider
No the speedo and tach are sealed I think? Maybe someone can figure this upgrade out and post their solution.
Cory
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Very nice job. Hope it works out well for you. Had to order the leds.
Things should work out good I tried my best to cross all my T's and dot my I's.
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Things should work out good I tried my best to cross all my T's and dot my I's.
It appears that you did. Do you have a straight on pic showing the speed/tach lit next to the gauges for comparison.
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Skillet I found that they match up OK. The speedo and tach being larger and closer to the rider were easy to read at night but found my self taking my eyes off the road longer trying to read the smaller cockpit gauges. So I came up with the LED idea.
Cory
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Skillet I found that they match up OK. The speedo and tach being larger and closer to the rider were easy to read at night but found my self taking my eyes off the road longer trying to read the smaller cockpit gauges. So I came up with the LED idea.
Cory
Thanks Cory. Yes it all goes together well.
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Hey Cory. Great job and great pics. You did such a fantastic job and done just the way I would have done it. Great choices and it was fun reading this one all the way through. Enjoy your ride. :2vrolijk_21:
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Hey Cory. Great job and great pics. You did such a fantastic job and done just the way I would have done it. Great choices and it was fun reading this one all the way through. Enjoy your ride. :2vrolijk_21:
Thanks cvostu, now that the bikes off the lift and all my projects are done " for now, we all no their never done " all I need is some nice weather. Figures all last week it was in the 80's and now that I'm ready to roll it's windy and back into the 30's.
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Isn't that how it always goes? :nixweiss:
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Cory great job on your bike. Did you program your ecu after installing your cams?
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Cory great job on your bike. Did you program your ecu after installing your cams?
Heres the short version of a very long story. Last year I ran this same configuration and had it tuned by Bean at Big Boyz. However my granite finish started to peel on the cases and cylinders. MoCo decided to replace the motor so I had to remove all my mods before the dealer would swap it out. So I now have just finished reinstalling everything exactly the same less the LMR spring but added the SE oil pump into the new motor. After assembly I warmed it up and did a quick lap around the neighborhood and the tune still seemed pretty close! It fired up with avengeance and after its warm up cycle it idled right at 1000RPM throttle responce seemed smooth and bike had no hesitation or decel pop. Time will tell how close it really is, Do you think I should go back in for a fine tune just to make sure all its potential is available on tap?
Cory
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Cory,nice job on the bike and good write up!!! I have the same bike,same color and love what you did. Where is the dyno tuner that you use? I use R&R in Manchester.I am also in NH.
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Cory.......excellent pictures. Greatly appreciate the pictures with your 12" monkey bars. With the 12's ...were you able to use the original clutch and brake lines ? I'm on the fence between 10's or 12's. Thanks! Easyrider
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Cory,nice job on the bike and good write up!!! I have the same bike,same color and love what you did. Where is the dyno tuner that you use? I use R&R in Manchester.I am also in NH.
Digga25 hows the new 117? Big Boyz is a haul from us they are in Augusta ME. Wanted to try something diffrent they tune very differently than most. Instead of using the AFR as a guide line Bean uses a Five gas analyzer. They install four probes into the exhaust system two into each header and he samples the gasses in increments of like 200 rpm all the way up to WOT testing the front and rear cylinder independently. Then he makes his adjustments until he achieves complete combustion. The result is a very rideable precise tune at any throttle position. The guys over at R&R are great as well I had a 05 RoadKing Custom with one of their stage four 95" kits all done up with diamond cut heads and cylinders Reggie's billet gear drive cam support plate, Baker DD6 and so on. It would pull by my buddies bike and at the time he was running a 113.
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Cory.......excellent pictures. Greatly appreciate the pictures with your 12" monkey bars. With the 12's ...were you able to use the original clutch and brake lines ? I'm on the fence between 10's or 12's. Thanks! Easyrider
Nope you gotta change your lines. But you will have enough factory wire to thread threw the bars with no problem. I originally ordered the Super size kit from Yaffe and ended up returning it and went threw my local dealer to figure out the lines and fittings I needed. I would recommend using 45* banjo's to help the lines flow better with the bars the Yaffe kit came with straight banjo's which sent the line straight down and in plain sight.
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Nope you gotta change your lines. But you will have enough factory wire to thread threw the bars with no problem. I originally ordered the Super size kit from Yaffe and ended up returning it and went threw my local dealer to figure out the lines and fittings I needed. I would recommend using 45*banjo's to help the line flow better with the lines of the bars the Yaffe kit came with straight banjo's which sent the line straight down and in plain sight.
:2vrolijk_21: +6" worked perfect for me. Enjoyed this post Big C.
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:2vrolijk_21: +6" worked perfect for me. Enjoyed this post Big C.
Thanks aclass, I couldn't remember the length but + 6" sounds spot on.
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Thanks alot Big C for the pic. Kinda figured Id go with the 12's but wanted to see first. And like Aclass said, good thread, enjoyed it. Really nice pics. Enjoy your bike with all your new mods!!....Grandpa
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Thanks a lot Big C for the pic. Kinda figured Id go with the 12's but wanted to see first. And like Aclass said, good thread, enjoyed it. Really nice pics. Enjoy your bike with all your new mods!!....Grandpa
Thanks Grandpa, you'll love the 12's. Great look and fit, due to the design with the points on the top and bottom people ask me if they are 14's all the time!
Good luck with your mods
Cory
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Cory, still waiting for completion.Should be this week.Went by there and was very surprised and happy with the build.They are doing more than I anticipated for no extra money.They have four million dollars in machines.They make all thier own cases,heads,cranks.They do a lot for the military so they come in routinely to certify and calibrate the machines. When they balance the crank they attach the rods and connect them to a couple of hydraulic pistons that feed info to the computer,the process is great to watch.Nice clean shop. By the way nice bike you got there.
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Cory, still waiting for completion.Should be this week.Went by there and was very surprised and happy with the build.They are doing more than I anticipated for no extra money.They have four million dollars in machines.They make all thier own cases,heads,cranks.They do a lot for the military so they come in routinely to certify and calibrate the machines. When they balance the crank they attach the rods and connect them to a couple of hydraulic pistons that feed info to the computer,the process is great to watch.Nice clean shop. By the way nice bike you got there.
Digga25 I'm good friends with Pete Fisher in parts and sales and Reggie Jr again please tell them Big Cory says hello. That shop is no joke and is by far the best in our area and is definitely in the top 3 in the country. I loved my R&R build in my old King wish I never sold it! But it was love at first sight with the silver CVO Road Glide, I first saw the orange and really liked it but the silver sealed the deal for me and had to sell the king. Any how would love to meet up for a ride someday and hear that 117 blow by my stocker I know R&R won't disappoint ya.
Cory
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Ok Cory,next time I go north I am going to call you to meet for a beer.Good luck with your ride and thanks for the ideas on the mods.Fred
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nice thx for all the pics
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Still the best looking CVO ever built IMO.
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Thank you guys. Been away from fourm for awhile sorry for the super late responce. On that note I'll say this with my last speaker swap out to the 5x7's I went backwards. The Focal 6 1/2's were louder while riding at highway speed. And after installing a few systems on my friends bikes next time its apart I will change out the amp to a Rockford or an Arc and will install Hertz 6 1/2".
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Does anybody know if the matching Oil Temp Gauge is still available???
Anybody have a Part Number???
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Does anybody know if the matching Oil Temp Gauge is still available???
Anybody have a Part Number???
They don't make that anymore last I heard. There was someone on the site looking for one and it took him a long time to find one.
:oops:
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Does anybody know if the matching Oil Temp Gauge is still available???
Anybody have a Part Number???
Part number is or was 75320-05A
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Part number is or was 75320-05A
Thanks :2vrolijk_21: