CVO Technical > Twin Cam
CVO Twin Cooled Oil Cooler Project
HD Street Performance:
Yes, hate this phone. Cooling
TRS300:
--- Quote from: HD Street Performance on August 25, 2018, 03:44:45 PM ---Yes, hate this phone. Cooling
--- End quote ---
ha ha. No worries. I understood what you meant.
Hey folks,
I did not post this thread to start yet another debate over how "best" to cool your Harley. I know about head fans, I know about tuning etc... I was sharing this information to let folks with "Twin Cooling" know that if they remove their thermostat that the system has a lot of extra capacity to remove heat from the heads when the thermostat is removed. A significant amount of heat for that matter. It's a simple mod that only takes an hour. And with the thermostat out refilling the system and getting the air out is easier as the cooling system is a loop with the bypass removed. I'm just sharing what I've found that's all.
As for head fans, something simply does not "seem right" if I have to add head fans to a bike with water cooling in the heads. Furthermore, the twin cool system works at all speeds, even better at high speeds where-as the head fans work more at low to no speed. Anyway, I have done tests to the effect of blowing air across the head and it does help. But frankly i think that water cooling from the twin cooled system is better solution as it removes the heat from the inside, from around the valves, whereas the fan cooling is cooling the surface temp of the head, not the core.
Regards, Tim
TRS300:
--- Quote from: Mikey on August 25, 2018, 12:27:02 PM ---Wow interesting! I agree with the fans to late, mine seldom run at all. How did you take control of the fans?
Thanks,
Mikey
--- End quote ---
I had a feeling this question would come up since I mentioned it. There are a number of ways you can do this but it depends on your skill level and how comfortable you feel in altering things on your bike. I suppose I could write a "How-To" if there was enough interest. But here's a list of different ways to do this... Which one is best is up to you.
1.) Tap the wires that go to the temp sensor on the bottom left radiator and run a jumper circuit that has ~ 390<>400 ohm resistor and an on/off switch where you can reach it (I would mount it via a hole in the plastic inner shroud in the lower itself where it's not noticable). The switch is so you can defeat the effect of the resistor in the jumper wire. The resistor fakes the signal to the ECU that the water temp is hotter than it really is. This is a great solution because the ECU will still shut down the fans when the bike gets moving. What it does too is run the fans and the pump for a few minutes every time you shut down the bike. So even if you make a quick stop (for gas for example) on a hot day the fans and the pump will cool down the motor while filling up. When you take off again the heads have been "pe-cooled" during the pit stop. If you do not like that the fans run after shutdown, simply flick the switch to "off" and break the resistor circuit and the system will return to normal and fans will shutdown.
Edit: The lower the value of the resistor the sooner the fans will turn on, you should play with what value works best for you. If you still think they come on too late put a lower value resistor in the loop. Do not go below 100 ohm I would say. It take a complete short circuit, or open circuit in the sensor loop to throw a CEL. As long as the sensor is plugged in you should not see an open circuit. And as long as you have a resistor in the jumper you will not see a short circuit.
Edit2: If you do not want the fans to operate after shutdown at all you can use a simple reed relay switch that closes when accessory wire is powered. that way the resistor is engaged only when the run switch is engaged.
2.) Take full control of the fans by switch: a.) use a 1K ohm resistor jumper on the fan circuit to fool the ECU into thinking the fans are ok and in the loop. Then run the fans any method you like (switch. thermal switch, etc...)
3.) I have a microcontroller that reads information off the CAN bus and does a few things for me. One of the things it does is directly control my fans based on head temperature. I can adjust when the fans start and I can adjust when I want to shut them down based on MPH. I have my fan set to engage ant any speed less than 50 mph and engine temp is greater than 170. But this is a bit beyond what most folks can do. Oddly, my system will not run the fans after shutdown because I've not taken over control of the water pump... I like the "Run after S/D" feature... So I may actually add another control circuit to manage a resistor jumper on the cooling water thermal sensor to get that feature working...
Not sure if any of this made sense but there it is...
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TRS300:
--- Quote from: Phreakyz on August 25, 2018, 11:40:17 AM ---If you want the bike to run cooler, buy a tuner and re-flash it. The OE Calibrations are very lean in order to meet tough emission requirements which causes the high combustion chamber temps.
I live in a state that does not emission test bikes. I have removed my cat and then re-flashed my CVO Street Glide with a Vance and Hines FP3, now my fans barely ever run except for the most extreme stop and go traffic on HOT days. Sometimes I run them manually just to make sure they don't freeze up from lack of use. The comfort level is so much higher because your right side calf and thigh is no longer roasting...
Your bike will run better and cooler and you will be happier :)
--- End quote ---
I also have an FP3.
What calibrations did you use to flash the ECM to get this good result?
My right calf is still uncomfortable and it's from the exhaust so I know the bike is running lean. I've not found any help on the web on how to get the mixture to be richer with the FP3.
BigLew55:
You might want to add a note that this is applicable to the 14-16 MY bikes. In '17 they removed the thermostat and made the pump motor variable speed.
Cool project, BTW. Thanks for sharing.
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