CVO Technical > Twin Cam

Cam Box

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jsfenster110:
On the 110, when going into replace the cams should you also replace the oil pump?  I am at 25,000 miles and just replaced the lifters at this point.

If cam plate, would it be automatic to replace the oil pump?

KGB:
I replaced cams, oil pump and plate (S&S) cam bearings, lifters and adjustable push rods, engine was quitter than stock and ran so much better

Unbalanced:
Are either the oil pump or camplate scored or damaged?

What is your oil pressure when hot at a traffic light or idling?   With blue pump and plate I am never below 10-12 lbs of oil pressure.   Prior I was showing 0-4 lbs so much happier knowing there was more always scares me seeing the needle at or near zero

Are you changing the cam plate to improve leakage? Improve pressure?
S&S cam plate is adjustable and will/can improve idle pressure but so can adding in a shim into the cam plate

Oil pump - if not dmg’d /worn checking for scoring inside the pump- check the washers and gearotors for wear or cracks

If you have a high flow already in there and no dmg it may not be necessary. Dealers choice

25k miles on lifters in a 110 - definitely recommend you change them even if you did nothing else

Bearings in cam chest - if you are in there put in new and better

Adjustable push rods are most likely necessary as most cams don’t have a stock base circle and will be needed.   Added benefit if you use quickie tapered is no chamfering of the new tubes and you don’t have to remove rocker-box and cradle to do any work in cam chest in the future

Non quickie pushrods are going to be stronger and stiffer - less flex but a bit more labor - depends on your school of thought here

FWIW I just replaced it all on the 2015 with S&S

Good luck with the upgrade

jsfenster110:
Thank you for the feedback.

Pressure at idle is 11 and 24-26 running down the road.

It seems crazy not to replace pump and plate while changing the cams.

Thanks again

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