Topic: Primary rattling noise? (Read 12108 times)

bigmuff · « **on:** September 05, 2009, 06:58:33 PM »

If I put the bike in neutral and let the clutch out there's a rattling noise from the primary. Pull the clutch in and it goes away. I'm guessing this is just the compensator but want to see if other's bikes are doing it.

RedDevil · « **Reply #1 on:** September 05, 2009, 08:50:55 PM »

Haven't heard it on mine.

LarryB · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2009, 09:06:08 AM »

change fluid, try Amsoil SuperShift tranny fluids in the primary

AXIL · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2009, 10:25:31 AM »

bigmuff, what year is your bike? sounds like the primary main shaft bearing.

Rooster · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2009, 12:45:00 PM »

Quote from: AXIL on September 06, 2009, 10:25:31 AM

bigmuff, what year is your bike? sounds like the primary main shaft bearing.

Mine is in for that and more first tapping then sort of howling to go with it. Jim says use Baker high torque bearing, stronger and doesn't walk. Just read an article in Oct American Iron that suggested the same bearing to go back in.

bigmuff · « **Reply #5 on:** September 06, 2009, 06:45:42 PM »

It's a 2010 CVO Street Glide.

Anways, it didn't do it today. It did it yesterday when I got back from a long ride. I took a long ride today and when I got back it didn't do it. Weird.

In general this bike is quieter than my 2005 Road King. It still clicks, clacks and clunks but not quite as loud.

Harley really needs a completely new drivetrain design. I have a couple Hondas too and the drivetrains in those are far superior from a noise and drive-ability standpoint. Of course they don't sound like a Harley though. Harley management places a lot of emphasis on that, to the point that the engine design suffers. I believe a double-pin crank and/or counterbalancing along with liquid cooling would mitigate a lot of the issues in the new engines, albeit at the expense of the exhaust tone.

AXIL · « **Reply #6 on:** September 06, 2009, 09:14:24 PM »

I am sorry you feel that way about harley. may be you should go back to jap junk and have a chittet day.

Pete · « **Reply #7 on:** September 07, 2009, 06:20:41 PM »

Tranny quiets down after a grand or so, when I first got mine I thought the shifts were stiff as well. FYI final drives on BMW's are so bad these days that folks competing in the Iron Butt Rally this year are carrying a spare with them along the way! Also, for the heck of it check and see if the fuel door release button is vibrating (sounds like a chain rattling).

Screamin_Beagle · « **Reply #8 on:** September 07, 2009, 06:48:46 PM »

Check the primary chain....

bigmuff · « **Reply #9 on:** September 08, 2009, 03:42:24 PM »

After a few more rides I've determined that it's temperature-dependent. When the bike is cool it doesn't do it. The hotter the engine the louder the rattle. It almost sounds like the primary chain is too loose which I think would make sense. Bike gets hotter, chain gets looser.

LarryB · « **Reply #10 on:** September 08, 2009, 03:43:37 PM »

bigmuff, what bike do you have, year?

bigmuff · « **Reply #11 on:** September 08, 2009, 03:44:27 PM »

2010 CVO Street Glide.

mjb765 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 08, 2009, 03:46:16 PM »

Try Redline Primary oil and see if that helps...and while you are there--Redline Shockproof will quiet things down in the trans and it will shift better. It worked wonders in my '10 SESG. Just my $.02

Hoist! · « **Reply #13 on:** September 08, 2009, 03:53:39 PM »

These bikes since the '06 Dyna have auto chain tensioners. What most don't know is that there is still an adjustment to them. And the auto-tensioner will not function correctly unless it's first installed/setup with the correct tension to begin with. The chain will stretch as it gets hotter. So I'd check the chain/chain tensioner for the correct setup before looking further.

Hoist!

bigmuff · « **Reply #14 on:** September 08, 2009, 04:00:00 PM »

Quote from: Hoist! on September 08, 2009, 03:53:39 PM

The chain will stretch as it gets hotter. So I'd check the chain/chain tensioner for the correct setup before looking further.

Hoist!

That's what it sounds like to me. The temperature-dependent nature points to excess chain slack. I would think a bearing would be worse when cold. But again, it's a Harley and logic doesn't usually apply.

mjb765 · « **Reply #15 on:** September 08, 2009, 04:06:28 PM »

I'm obviously out numbered on this one, but couldn't the wrong or oil too thin cause this as well? Heat would make the oil thinner thus causing more noise

grc · « **Reply #16 on:** September 08, 2009, 10:00:43 PM »

I don't know that I agree with the idea that the chain develops more slack when it gets hotter. Prior to the addition of the auto adjuster, the specs for chain free play were 5/8-7/8" cold, 3/8-5/8" when hot. As you can see, the free play decreases when hot, by approximately 1/4", on the older models. I don't know of any reason why that would change with the current models.

Noise disappears when the clutch is disengaged, and returns when the clutch is engaged. Sounds like either a clutch noise or a trans noise (trans input shaft and gears turn when clutch is engaged, even in neutral). Maybe a little excessive shaft end play that shows up when up to full temp?

Jerry

Rooster · « **Reply #17 on:** September 09, 2009, 11:02:40 AM »

While inspecting the damage to inner primary bearings tech pointed out a very small nick where he said primary chain was a little loose at one time but had been adjusted. I to thought the auto adjuster took care of adjusting especially since the moco took away the inspection door now you have to replace an expensive outer primary gasket to check. I for one miss that inspection access.

Hoist! · « **Reply #18 on:** September 09, 2009, 11:44:24 AM »

Quote from: Rooster on September 09, 2009, 11:02:40 AM

While inspecting the damage to inner primary bearings tech pointed out a very small nick where he said primary chain was a little loose at one time but had been adjusted. I to thought the auto adjuster took care of adjusting especially since the moco took away the inspection door now you have to replace an expensive outer primary gasket to check. I for one miss that inspection access.

You can't adjust the auto-tensioner assembly at the inspection cover location like the old manual adjusters. You'd be able to check the chain tension itself, but you can't get to the tensioner. The cover needs to be removed for that.

Hoist!

bigmuff · « **Reply #19 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:26:45 AM »

Dealer says "noise is normal". I told them "no way. Fix it and don't feed me corporate bs".

Rooster · « **Reply #20 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:29:29 AM »

Quote from: Hoist! on September 09, 2009, 11:44:24 AM

You can't adjust the auto-tensioner assembly at the inspection cover location like the old manual adjusters. You'd be able to check the chain tension itself, but you can't get to the tensioner. The cover needs to be removed for that.

Hoist!

To bad the outer primary gasket can't be reused.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #21 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:34:08 AM »

Quote from: Rooster on September 12, 2009, 11:29:29 AM

To bad the outer primary gasket can't be reused.

Well....... There's a difference between not supposed to and can't. More than once have done so. Couple of times it's seeped. But only a couple. Actually a pretty fair batting average when considering the wager is a two or three dollar quart of ATF versus a $32+ gasket.

Rooster · « **Reply #22 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:46:32 AM »

All the gaskets should be reuseable since us test pilots have to keep taking things apart and fixin things. Actually zippers would be really nice.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #23 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:51:18 AM »

Quote from: Rooster on September 12, 2009, 11:46:32 AM

All the gaskets should be reuseable since us test pilots have to keep taking things apart and fixin things. Actually zippers would be really nice.

That's something I'd not do to someone else's bike. But when the damned primary gaskets go so expensive and since I could roll it back in the garage and change it so quickly if need be I have occasionally given that one a shot at reuse.

hdbrad03 · « **Reply #24 on:** September 12, 2009, 05:45:02 PM »

I've reused mine more than once and has never leaked.

Brad

bigmuff · « **Reply #25 on:** September 23, 2009, 09:59:03 PM »

Well, put new pipes and a Super Tuner on it. Changed the tranny oil and the sound is now all but gone. It was definitely a temperature issue but also I think a combination of transmission oil and break-in. As I've been riding it the noise is getting less and less. Today was the hottest it has been in a while and even after a hard ride it wasn't doing it.

Now I just need to quiet the valve train down. Anyone else try those travel-limiting tappets? Do the tapered pushrods help?

mjb765 · « **Reply #26 on:** September 23, 2009, 10:02:13 PM »

Quote from: bigmuff on September 23, 2009, 09:59:03 PM

Well, put new pipes and a Super Tuner on it. Changed the tranny oil and the sound is now all but gone. It was definitely a temperature issue but also I think a combination of transmission oil and break-in. As I've been riding it the noise is getting less and less. Today was the hottest it has been in a while and even after a hard ride it wasn't doing it.

Now I just need to quiet the valve train down. Anyone else try those travel-limiting tappets? Do the tapered pushrods help?

Let me know if you have luck quieting the valve train....I don't always want to use the radio, but that noise is killing me!!

StreetDog · « **Reply #27 on:** October 10, 2009, 06:53:34 PM »

The one I looked at and heard run the other day had no distinctive top end valve train noise ( quite compared to my 07' SERK) , it did have the typical motor noises thou. But I was surprised not to hear top end valve noise. Almost made me buy that one instand of waiting on the right color. I wonder if some make that valve train noise and some don't depending on how they were assembled.

Author Topic: Primary rattling noise? (Read 12108 times)