At the risk of sounding uninformed, can someone help explain what I'm looking at with the dyno sheets? I know it is showing torque and HP but am not sure how to read the graph. Thanks :-/Great article in July American Iron magazine on Dyno tuning and how the numbers can be manipulated by crooked tuners
H-D
Running into some major problem getting my 06 SCUC dialed in with my new Freedom pipes, Power Commander and Air Filter Kit.
My dealer has installed everything and followed all the instructions, on the dyno the bike is only pulling 1 to 2 hp & tq over stock.
Called Freedom discussed events with Brad.
A second Power Commander was over nighted and still the same numbers.
Once again discussed all the installation with Brad at Freedom and everything is installed and dialed to Freedoms specs.
Bike pulls hard in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear, then falls on its nose when the 4th gear pull is attempted.
Any ideas ?
This is driving me crazy
Thanks
Here are my dyno results with D and D Fatcats with Ghost Pipe, SERT, and K & N high flow filter. I'm pleased with the results considering that I've had no engine work (cams, heads, etc.).As you should be those are nice numbers and should feel really nice when you twist the throttle. :)
Posting this for CigarMike; He had his tune done at RC Cycles yesterday.
Mods are stage 1 AC, Freedom Pipes, PCIII with rev extend
Not to be negative here, just a comment. After reading the article in AIM about all the dyno do's and dont's, on Mikes bike, they used the first run for the baseline. The article warns that a lot of dyno operators use that first run to make thier improvements look better as a warmed up bike would produce a better base line after 4 or 5 runs. As much as 4 to 6 hp. Still good final numbers though.
my dyno numbers are 106 hp 116tq this was done with a race tuner v-h 2 into1 air cleaner and new cams to match the way harley originally desingned the moter most dont know it was designed to have a dome top piston but changed there thought of compression problems and went to a flat top piston leaving the same cam so by putting in a smaller duration cam i went from 100hp and 105 tq before cam change to 106hp and 116tq what a difference but still have a moter as dependable as stock :)
Hey JDOFLHRIDER- As the proud owner of a brand new Blue 07 Screamin Eagle Ultra, I've been looking for a pipe/air cleaner/ECU tuner to open it up a little, and it looks like you've got the perfect combo- you've got some great numbers. Can you tell me more about the muffers (slip-on?, part number?) and the 'Pro Tuner' (is this Harley, what is the part number?).
I would also like to know if you like the sound of the pipes- are they loud enough, not loud enough, too loud- would you buy the same ones again?
I'm really jazzed about the numbes you got- I hope to be at the same place in a couple of weeks!
P.S. This is my first post- Hi everybody!
2006 CUSE
First attempt at 100 ft-lbf at rear wheel:
SE slip-ons, SE high flow, SERT.
Disappointing, 82hp / 90.88 ft-lbf. The sound was somewhat better and the power was useable in that 2500 and 4000 range. The constant "tinging" sound, like a small chain dragging behind the bike was somewhat annoying though.
Then...the race...then more changes...
Installed Rinehart true duals, raced tuned again, then I get a respectable 95 hp / 96 ft-lbf. But all the peak power is between 4500 and 5500 rpm. It's not real world useable, except for hard riding, like this past weekend on the Dragon. The "tinging" was gone, but a rattle has started.
The bottom end power from idle up to 2000 in first gear is almost non-existant. It's so bad that my clutch is heating up in traffic and shuttering, and burning, but not slipping -- yet. Before the Rineharts I never had this problem.
Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed in the Rineharts. I installed then myself and had them on in about 2 hours, but the rear cylinder pipe is so close to the clutch cover (3/16") clearance that all the exhaust pipe heat next to the chrome clutch cover, and the clutch concerns me. The lack of bottom-end power is disappointing, but they look GREAT, and the bike runs hard between 3500 and 4500 rpm, then it runs real STRONG between 4500 and 5500 rpm. It's set up great for a high bank oval! LOL or those 70 mph roll-on drag races on the interstate with riding buddies, or with my wife who jumped on me 4 weeks ago, (while running the SE setup) with the whole crew riding behind us, with her race tuned softail Deluxe at 80 mph, and I couldn't pull away from her all the way up to 115 mph. That's when this whole Rinehart thing started. When your wife jumps on you in front of the whole gang, and your on a slight uphill grade so everyone behind you has a clear view of the race, and you can't pull away from her, well, your under a lot of pressure! Then when you look over and she won't look at you and you see a big grin on her face like "got-cha" and as you both back off, you see her saying over and over again, "yes, yes, yes" as she blasts by, well, then you know that 83 hp and 90.88 ft-lbf ain't gonna cut it. Man, the ragging I took over that, was horrible, but the pride I had in her was awesome!
And to make matter worse, her new main bike is an 06 SE Fat Boy that has yet to be race tuned! So, heck, I'm under alot of pressure here!
So, anyway, I'm thinking about either...
a.) Removing the baffles in the Rineharts (I have to do that anyway to bend the tabs to stop the rattling sound) and installing a 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt at the front of the baffle to create some back pressure.
b.) Reinstalling the factory header pipes and useing the Rinehart slip ons.
c.) Race tuning it again, as is, and asking for more bottom end power --if possible. The lack of bottom end almost feels like a timing issue.
I'm told (haven't measured yet) that the HD stock header pipes are larger in diameter than the Rineharts so they flow better right out of the engine. I do know that the cross-over tube on the stock header pipes creates the much needed back pressure for torque, and the stock header pipes clear the clutch cover by and inch or so. An engine builder told me that Rinehart's mythic performance drops off as the cubic inches go up. He said that Rineharts perform great on the TC88, but not near as well on the 103 HD engines.
Has anyone else had the same bottom end issue with Rineharts????????????? Any clutch problems??????????
I JUST RODE MY SE ULTRA HOME FROM GETTING D+D FAT CATS WITH THE HP BAFFLE 98.22 HP AND 113.36 TQ 3000 RPM.I ALSO HAVE A SE PRO TUNNER,AND AC
I WOULD SAY THE SOUND IS DIFFERENT BOTH SOUND GOOD .I HAVE HAD KERKERS ON LAST 2 BIKES SO GETTING USED TO NEW SOUND IS LIL DIFFERENT.IF LOOKING FOR KERKERS I HAVE A PAIR WITH 4000 MILES ON THEN FOR SALE $250 PLUS SHIPPING.
What kind of drives losses would you normally expect from the crank to the rear wheel? Is it greater than 10%?Found a couple of posts that speak of this...
Well just had the bike dyno'd this evening and have to say what a difference in seat of the pants test. Red line is the pcIII 96" w/rineharts download, close but extremly rich at 2000 to 3000 rpm. after tuning I have to say that there is a pretty noticable difference in driveability. Have to say over all I am very pleased so far. And God I love that Rinehart sound!! [smiley=jalapeno.gif] [smiley=orange.gif] [smiley=2vrolijk_20.gif] First time trying attachment. Hope I get it right.
SERT, SEAC, 595 Cams/Gear drive, SEII S/O
I'm taking her in Monday to dyno tune her with my RB Racing Black Holes.......... :bananarock:
Sometimes random thoughts appear from seeminly nowhere. Saw this thread with a new active post. Then the thought occurs:
"Is the guy that runs a dyno a dynocologist?" :nixweiss:
Aren't those numbers low for the cam/mods you've done? Or is that just a baseline before you get the RB's?
Well the results are in.. I want to hear what you guys think about the looks of the power band. Also look at where the Tourque starts 1500 not bad!
110 Stage 1, SE 251 Cams, SE Valve Springs , Adjustable Push Rods, SERT, Dual Reinharts
NOTE FOR THE WRENCHES: Up garade the push rods the first set tried on this motor bent, bent bad! The wrench has them on the magnet in his tool box.
Click on the photo it will open up full size:
I think it's excellent. Looks like it's all right where you want it. And stays there too. I just can't get past staying with the chain drive. But that thing's gotta pull like a mutha! Man, have fun with it 3z's! :2vrolijk_21: Hoist! 8)
Thanks Hoist, yes it pulls hard! It really does have a forgiving power band..
Thanks for your input :)
Looks great Steven. In where you want it, stays in for the duration and gives all you'd want for regular highway riding. Got to feel sweet going down the road. How's your engine feel on the heat side where so many are so concerned?
This may sound too GEEKISH but hang in there... The cooling fans used for computers can move up to 250 CFM they are 12V DC brushless which means water will not affect them. Weather or not I can blame MOCO for their problem I intend to keep my bike enjoyable/running until this all gets worked out. Anyway. There is more than enough room behind the rear jug to do a stand off surface mount with one of these fans. When stuck in traffic it will blow much needed air directly on the rear jug. This is my personal fix, I like my ride and want to keep it ridable no matter what MOCO does for /to the rest of the world.
TTYL
Steven
I know it wont hurt :drink:
12 Volt DC Cooling Fan.
120mm x 120mm x 38mm.
Rated at 12 Volt DC at 900 Ma.
Brushless. Size Approx.: 4 11/16" square x 1 7/16".
RPM: 3200. CFM: 130. Noise: 48 dB.
Delta part number: AFB1212VHE.
With 6" wire leads.
(Stock #: FN14)
This one is rated at 130 CFM that is a lot of air.
That will be the cheapest Blow Job I ever got :bananarock: :bananarock: :bananarock:
I thought about heat taping my rear pipe also, any thoughts?????
Personally I'd ceramic coat the pipes first. Will get more benefit without acquiring something that's ugly as FireDood's scar.
Personally I'd ceramic coat the pipes first. Will get more benefit without acquiring something that's ugly as FireDood's scar.
Have you been under the covers again! :huepfenjump3:
Don't make me show you the darkside of the moon. :P I'll have you know I had a good surgeon and he didn't butcher me. ;D
Unexpected beverage expulsion all over the keyboard!
Personally I'd ceramic coat the pipes first. Will get more benefit without acquiring something that's ugly as FireDood's scar.
Well the results are in.. I want to hear what you guys think about the looks of the power band. Also look at where the Tourque starts 1500 not bad!Steven,
110 Stage 1, SE 251 Cams, SE Valve Springs , Adjustable Push Rods, SERT, Dual Reinharts
NOTE FOR THE WRENCHES: Up garade the push rods the first set tried on this motor bent, bent bad! The wrench has them on the magnet in his tool box.
Click on the photo it will open up full size:
I rode with JC this weekend and he said my profile name SJPZZZ was not to easy to say or remember. So I have switched to my given and earned road name IronButt.
Hey IronAss, you'll always be 3z's to me! ;D Hoist! 8)
That will be the cheapest Blow Job I ever got
I thought about heat taping my rear pipe also, any thoughts?????
Gary and Jim,
My dissatisfaction with the numbers was that I thought these were not the best "tune" jobs in the world from what I had learned from many of you here about what constitutes a good dyno tune. The bike ran better after dyno #3, but still feels like there is more beast to be had. My impression from others here that number of HP in high90, low 100's with torque 105 to 115 range would constitute what can be achieved. (I know Gary don't worship the numbers but it is an ego thing). But I honestly felt that I did not get quality dyno tuning now having spent considerable coin. If i lived in CA or in Memphis area I would have been okay with numbers knowing the quality of work done, but here north of Jax,FL there don't seem to be many quality dyno tuners. Next trip will be to Jim Brown of bragging rights in Clermont, FL since had him recommended by others here unless any knows somene closer. Thanks for input you reaffirmed my impression, John
.... My impression from others here that number of HP in high90, low 100's with torque 105 to 115 range would constitute what can be achieved. (I know Gary don't worship the numbers but it is an ego thing). But I honestly felt that I did not get quality dyno tuning now having spent considerable coin. .... JohnJohn,
Otophile,
Depending on when you do this there might be someone for you to go to. The dyno is just about finished at Seminole Harley and the shop steward just got back from Harley. I am going to let him dyno tune my bike and I can let you know how it goes.
Jim @ seminole and I have had many conversations on the topic and I am willing to give him a shot with a clean map and see how his tuning does against my own tune with the Twin Tec / baseline dyno that he is willing to do to compare the two.
-harry
Harry,
I appreciate the offer. You originally recommended Jim Brown with Bragging rights to me in December. Big lesson i should have listened then, it would have saved me alot of time , frustration, and money. I had planned on going to him in Leesburg but unexpected family issue came up. If your happy with what you get at Seminole HD let me know, I just want to go to someone who others trust and have experience with. thanks, John
I recently had Rinehart Performance baffles installed. Here is the before/after dyno sheet. Other mods include SERT and Stage I.
Before: 91.28HP 108.87 Torque
After: 94.92HP 113.46 Torque
I have a quick question based on your dyno chart.Dan,
I know, I know, I shouldn't assume anything, but I'll go out on a limb on this one and assume the the more peaked bell curve in your dyno chart is for torque as that goes along with the legend stating torque on the right side of the chart. That torque curve looks very peaky though. The other upward to the right is the max power curve.
Torque is what a dyno records and hp is a calculation formula of torque and rpms.
That being said, ALL torque/power curves cross at 5250 rpms as a rule of this math formula. Your chart shows that happening way down around 4,000 rpms. I'm not sure how this can be.
I'll probably be going through all this later after my new '08 SERK gets in my hands.
Just thought I'd bring this up and see if anyone else has an answer for this.
I'M JUST CHECKING MY OPTIONS.WHEN I PUT MY MUFFLERS ON D AND D PIPES WEREN'T OUT YET.I LIKE THE SOUND OF MY MUFFLERS AND D AND SOUND ALSO .I JUST BEEN LOOKING TO SEE IF NUMBERS FROM D AND D'S ARE INCREASED ENOUGH TO CHANGE.RIGHT NOW IT LOOKS TO CLOSE TO CALL.MY LOCAL HD SHOP IS MOUNTING A SET OF BORZILLA'S ON A 110 THIS WEEK SO THAT MIGHT ANSWER FAT CAT OR BORZILLA'S CHOICE.LOL GOOD LUCK JDOFLHRIDER
Put a few miles on my bike yesterday and love the way it rides compared to before. Just installed D&D Fatcats w/ quiet baffle, PCIII, SE 50MM, Throttle Body, SE 251 Cams, K&N AF. See my Dyno attached. I plan to get a better tune in the comings months...right now just going to ride. Any advice to get better performance without too much $$ is welcome. Thanks, Rich
not much $$$$$? have you considered the 30 tooth motor sprocket?
not much $$$$$? have you considered the 30 tooth motor sprocket?
I've already spoken to him about that. When he sees how my bike flies out of the hole, he'll be changing that sprocket right after Sturgis! ;) Hoist! 8)
Howie, I did not get my work stuff completed and did not leave for Sturgis and will not be going. Looks like I will miss "No Panties Wednesday" in Hullet. R
I have a quick question based on your dyno chart.
I know, I know, I shouldn't assume anything, but I'll go out on a limb on this one and assume the the more peaked bell curve in your dyno chart is for torque as that goes along with the legend stating torque on the right side of the chart. That torque curve looks very peaky though. The other upward to the right is the max power curve.
Torque is what a dyno records and hp is a calculation formula of torque and rpms.
That being said, ALL torque/power curves cross at 5250 rpms as a rule of this math formula. Your chart shows that happening way down around 4,000 rpms. I'm not sure how this can be.
I'll probably be going through all this later after my new '08 SERK gets in my hands.
Just thought I'd bring this up and see if anyone else has an answer for this.
06 103 CI- Thunderheader, K & N Hi flow AC, SERT.
thunderheader on a stock bagger. tis why your not making anything untill midrange.
Dennis, do you see any problems using the TH on the 110" RevTech carb'd Evo Motor w/6-speed RT Trans, I'm putting in my Wide Glide? Thanks.
Hoist! 8)
thunderheader seems to work better on evo motors. if you are gonna spin it up to make power---- you will not be riding in the famouse dip area. speedneed is cammed to where his tq curve is right at the t-header dip, negating any performance he may have had. kinda like putting big radius pipes on a motor that signs off at 4000 rpm.
i think the t-header will work well with your combo hoist!
Just removed V&H Fuel Pak from 07 CUSE with V&H Duels and ovals, Dorety AC with Power Paks and had bike dyno'd with SERT. No changes to config. other than SERT. Tuner set a perfectly flat AFR at 13.5. I gained 5 lbs of torque (105lbs ) but nothing on HP (only 83.5hp). Is it possible that the Fuel Pak was producing the same HP with no tuning required. This was done on the same dyno with only about 10 degrees temp difference. I was expecting a bump in hp from the SERT and tune. Bike seems to running good and I'm hoping for a little improvement in mileage but would like to see more ponies for the $600 investment. Any thoughts on this are appreciated.
The AFR is not "perfectly" flat, but there is not much deviation. Also, I'm not overly concerned about the numbers unless a problem is indicated. My question is more related to realizing no gain in hp from the SERT and dyno from what was previously reported on the same dyno, same temp range with Fuel Pak. Is this possible? I gained 5 lbs of torque, why no hp gain?There were some bumps at the high point of hp, is it likely that they indicate some slippage on the dyno drum that would account for no gains in hp? If anyone has an answer, please jump in here. All input is appreciated.
Bearammus
hopefully this will work
hopefully this will work
Here is the dyno sheet with the D & D fatcats with quiet baffle.
Running the race tuner..
newseultra07 - I'd be interested in what the curve looks like below 3k.
I'd be curious as to the A/F ratio...
hopefully, Things are coming around for me and my bike.
I dynoed my FLHTCUSE3 BEFORE any mods and after. I have 3,800 miles on it. The first dyno resulted in 77.74 HP and 98.98 ftlbs torque. This isnt what the H-D sales/material says!
I added on Rhinehart True Duals exhaust and a PCIII resulting in 86.74 HP and 110.70 or about an 11% overall improvement.
I also dynoed my 08 Night Rod and posted those results over on the Revolution motors.
What do you think about these results?
You are correct however, that was only the first "recorded" run. The dyno operator (Bob)does 3-4 "pulls" on the dyno to get the bike up to temp. If he had recorded each pull the "baseline" run number would be a higher number. You can't just go by the run number.
Does anyone know how to take the dyno run file and convert it to a jpg? I don't have a scanner, and I don't know how to view the dyno file I have. Thanks!
Sorry about the poor picture quality... but, how does this look?
'07 SEUC w: V&H TD head-pipes, Reinhart slip-ons, Ness A/C, Zippers TMAT.
max power= 80.16
max torque= 97.74
I've been running this setup for about 8 mos & this is the 1st time on the dyno.
A/F has a dip around 2200rpm.
note- run temp=92, humidity=27%
Does anybody have any suggestions and/or comments? (aside from the Zipppers TMAT :P)
Should I flatten the curve?
I figured if it was rich, it'd run cooler in Louisiana's hot summer.
Not real familiar w/ all this electronic tuning. Gimme a carb anytime~
Does anyone know how to take the dyno run file and convert it to a jpg? I don't have a scanner, and I don't know how to view the dyno file I have. Thanks!
I just switched from Freedom True Dual to 2 into1 D&D Fat Cats. The motor is stock and I have a SERT and Zippers A/C. My take is that the numbers are slightly better but the difference is the usable range from low 2000's to 4000. The first run I had just over 1000 miles on the bike. The second run I have 17,500. The high SAE for both I think is due to altitude. We're at about 6000 feet.
Bret
110" with Fat Cat quiet baffle
Ported and reworked stock heads(stock valves and springs)
SE257 cam
SE 10.5:1 pistons (approx 10:1)
SERT
Another successful tune up from Jarz Performance in Abbostford BC.
Drove a nice 1500 mile round trip for this tune up.
Sure was nice to get out for a spin.
Brad
Ok, well here it is via a photo.
Just got her back from the winter sleep all mods are final , I hope.
Heavy Breather air cleaner, stock pipes with cat removed by Fullsac, Fulsac 2 1/4 cores no packing, Andrews 54 cams, stock throttle body and manifold bored to 53mm. Cant wait to ride it!!!!
'06 SEUC, Changed out the head pipes to Basanni Power Curve Duals and V&H Ovals for the mufflers. Zippers high flow A/C. Otherwise stock.
82.35 HP
88.17 Torque
Sound about right?
49445CVO,
What mechanism was used to tune your bike, SERT, SUPER SERT, TTS, Power Commander ?
To me this sounds about 10 light on both sides. typically .. pipes, a/c, tune on the 103's was roughly 98 tq / 93 hp give or take a couple on most dyno jet 250i dyno's. Check out the SEEG Dyno Sheets its pretty consistent. Could be a super super stingy dyno so, before getting upset about it, I would do another run on another 250i for peace of mind sake.
One other question, was this done in 4th gear? If it was it could be right on the numbers.
5th gear pull with Rinehart true duals, A/C , SERT all 3 of my CVO 103's have dyno'd within a hp / tq of each other. The curve looked like this.
Just got the 2010 Ultra run done on the dyno. The engine is set up with the SE A/C, SERT, V&H Power Duals and the SE 259e cam. The mufflers are Kirkers with Mikuni PAT cores. Sound is polite and classic. This is my first touring bike and I plan to travel and don't want issues with noise level but love the rumble. (I have a highly modified FatBoy for raising hell). I love everything about the Ultra and there is plenty juice to keep me happy. I have done some other mods like the new Windsplitter windshield and I will post a list of those with pics within a few days.
06' FLHTCUSE 103CI to 107CI Conversion:UPDATE!!! Switched to "quiet baffles" from "performance baffles" with my Rinehart True Duals plus a retune and I picked up about 25 ft/lbs of torque at 2200 rpm while reaching 100 ft/lbs at that rpm. What an improvement over the "performance baffles" where I didn't reach 100 ft/lbs until about 3250 rpm.
1. NRHS Stage 2 CNC welded & ported TC 88 heads (1.90 intake and 1.615 exhaust) set to 87cc to achieve 10.2:1 static compression (swapped out my 103 heads)
2. Andrews Hydraulic Cam Conversion Kit with Andrews 54N cams
3. Bored Cylinders to 3.938 and installed CP 107FT forged pistons
4. Changed out injectors to SE 4.90 gms/sec
5. SE High Flow Air Cleaner and Rinehart True Duals with Performance Baffles
6. Dyno Tuned - SERT
104PWR 112TRQ I gained 26.4HP and 29.4TQ over my stock 103CI motor with the original stage 1 upgrades!
Switched to "quiet baffles" from "performance baffles" with my Rinehart True Duals plus a retune and I picked up about 25 ft/lbs of torque at 2200 rpm while reaching 100 ft/lbs at that rpm. What an improvement over the "performance baffles" where I didn't reach 100 ft/lbs until about 3250 rpm.
I now have alot more area under the curve with 100 ft/lbs or more of torque from 2200 to 4700 rpm. I lost some at the top end, but with an 885 lb. bagger, I think the overall change in the torque curve was well worth the tradeoff. The bike is alot more responsive and alot more fun to ride. The "seat fo your pants dyno" difference is amazing.
I am very surprised at the results with just a baffle change and retune. Any thoughts?
I have attached the new Dyno Chart
PS: I'd like to thank all responders for their input regarding the change I made.
Compared your before / after results again. Man, that's a great improvement. Nice that your comp is not too high at 10.2 - 1. Very nice build.
JW
this is d-d fatcats,custom cam,ventalator aircleaner,and thundermax .love the outcome
Nice! And the custom cam is?? :nixweiss:
JW
Nice! And the custom cam is?? :nixweiss:
JW
What he said?
SBB
This is my first time to do any dyno work, or tuners, and I am very satisfied with the results. Work was done by Victoria Harley Davidson and tuned by the owner Tim, Installed Arlen Ness AC, V&H True Duals with Monster Ovals and the PC tuner. My criteria was to improve performance and cool the bike while maintaining my fuel economy at cruising speed. The bike runs great and my mileage is till 38 to 40 MPG. Heat on my right leg is gone, and temperature dose not exceed 222 degrees. The only thing I am still getting used to is the much louder sound of the exhaust. Turner told me he could do a better job of tuning with the True Duals then the power duals because he could tune each cylinder independently. I went with his recommendation, and if I lost some torque, I am not missing it.
HP 92.57
Torque 109.29
Looks good--TQ over 100 from 2400 to 4800 rpm--must be fun.
Shhhhhh, it's a secret. Notice all the redacted info at the bottom of the dyno sheet. Special chit there. Oh god..... it'll be on WikiLeaks in a month :o !Cams were a special design for 110,s
Man that was some sweet sounding music.
UPDATE!!! Switched to "quiet baffles" from "performance baffles" with my Rinehart True Duals plus a retune and I picked up about 25 ft/lbs of torque at 2200 rpm while reaching 100 ft/lbs at that rpm. What an improvement over the "performance baffles" where I didn't reach 100 ft/lbs until about 3250 rpm.Do these quiet baffles come with the pipes or purchased seperately? Kind of a dumb question since spare parts like that rarely are included. My original pipes are still in the box from when I went to Rineharts and I never opened them to check. I better put that on my list. Glad that these helped.
I now have alot more area under the curve with 100 ft/lbs or more of torque from 2200 to 4700 rpm. I lost some at the top end, but with an 885 lb. bagger, I think the overall change in the torque curve was well worth the tradeoff. The bike is alot more responsive and alot more fun to ride. The "seat of your pants dyno" difference is amazing.
New dyno and new guy running it. Trained by Doc.
My numbers on my bike, 2011 flhtcuse6, when I got it in end of August. 94hp,114 ftlbs. Torque. She going in tonight to have the 117 kit put on her but with 10.7:1 pistons. My Ture duals will hurt my final numbers but I bet she sound beast!Rule of thumb... The bigger the engine the less true duals lose over 2into1 exhausts. Also the more cam overlap the worse true duels work at lower rpms as compared to 2into1.