Topic: Progressive 12.5 B (Read 19084 times)

DavidB · « **on:** January 11, 2005, 09:06:48 PM »

Here is how the bike sits with the 12.5 inch Progressive shocks installed [smiley=biggthumpup.gif]

DavidB · « **Reply #1 on:** January 11, 2005, 09:09:07 PM »

Another

Twolanerider · « **Reply #2 on:** January 11, 2005, 09:19:53 PM »

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Here is how the bike sits with the 12.5 inch Progressive shocks installed

Mr. We · « **Reply #3 on:** January 12, 2005, 05:59:41 AM »

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Here is how the bike sits with the 12.5 inch Progressive shocks installed

DavidB · « **Reply #4 on:** January 12, 2005, 07:17:19 AM »

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DavidB.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #5 on:** January 12, 2005, 07:20:19 AM »

Mr., do a search on "Progressive." There are at least 3 or 4 threads on the subject in the Electra Glide section of the site. These shocks have been found to dramatically improve the ride and handling of the SEEGs over the stock air shocks and many on the board here have made the switch.

nsrider · « **Reply #6 on:** January 12, 2005, 11:09:50 AM »

Looks good DavidB, I also put the 12,5 progressives on mine after my little incident on the Dragons' Tail last summer and I haven't scraped anything since. Mama is much happier and we all know if mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #7 on:** January 12, 2005, 12:32:01 PM »

Speaking strictly from my own experience removing the air shocks and going to the Progressives was the single most important thing I've done to the bike for rideability, control and "feel" of handling. It was a night-and-day difference.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #8 on:** January 12, 2005, 12:44:09 PM »

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Looks good DavidB, I also put the 12,5 progressives on mine after my little incident on the Dragons' Tail last summer and I haven't scraped anything since. Mama is much happier and we all know if mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy.

David, nsrider, 2lane & others, does the extra 1/2" length really help the clearance that much? I was set on getting the 12" 440s but now am second-guessing myself. The reason I was going to stick with the stock ride height is I really don't notice any difference whatsoever in the clearance on this bike vs. my old '02 Electra Glide Classic. This bike scrapes stuff on the same roads and in the same places as that bike did and it had the regular old 13" shocks on it. In fact, I would even say that the SEEG is a little better (scrapes less) due to the stiffer suspension (less wallowing, more control).

Also, you're raising the rear up and the stuff that scrapes is more toward the front of the bike, so a 1/2" rise at the rear is going to translate into even less at the jiffy stand or footboard, which adds to my skepticism of the improvement in cornering clearance.

Help me understand! [smiley=help.gif]

RRSteve · « **Reply #9 on:** January 12, 2005, 01:42:28 PM »

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Also, you're raising the rear up and the stuff that scrapes is more toward the front of the bike, so a 1/2" rise at the rear is going to translate into even less at the jiffy stand or footboard, which adds to my skepticism of the improvement in cornering clearance.

Help me understand! [smiley=help.gif]

I'm not sure the how much the half inch helped, but I think the progressives make a difference. They don't compress as quickly and easily as the factory shocks and when you leaning into a hard turn I think they just control the compression much better than the old bottoming out factory jobs. I noticed an improvement with mine and I put the stock (12") 440 progressives on. All I know for sure is that the ride with the progressive's are much, much, better than the factory shocks. It was better from day one after the install, but was a tad stiff with just me on the bike, but after a couple hundred miles they were perfect. Hitting bumps and not bottoming out is still amazing to me since my old Wideglide bottomed out as bad as the SEEG did with factory shocks.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #10 on:** January 12, 2005, 02:24:37 PM »

I wouldn't dare offer an answer that was presented as definitive on the extra 1/2" difference in the shocks.

Laker · « **Reply #11 on:** January 12, 2005, 03:01:26 PM »

I have the 12" chrome version ordered right now. I hope I made the right choice. I will post my opinion after the install and a few miles. [smiley=laugh.gif]

DavidB · « **Reply #12 on:** January 12, 2005, 09:41:25 PM »

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David, nsrider, 2lane & others, does the extra 1/2" length really help the clearance that much?

110tHunDer · « **Reply #13 on:** January 12, 2005, 10:02:54 PM »

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103 I think you right in saying the 1/2 inch long shock is not really going to help that much in keeping the front floorboards from scraping. I think it helped me more with the jiffy stand. Now when I think its going to drag it doesn`t ,the front floorboards now drag before the jiffy stand and im not going to change the front springs to fix that. I like the lowered look . Its all relative.

I did some figuring and it looks like a .50" longer shock on the rear only efectivily raises the back of the bike at the swingarm by .42"..
The Shock mounts at an angle to the swingarm not at 90 deg.
I can feel the extra height in the saddle.
One thing though, my bike now rides and handles like it should have from the factory.

Im putting a set of Progressives on my Roadking now.

David and others, thanks for the input. As far as the actual rise due to the angle of the shock to the swingarm, I've forgotten more than I ever learned about geometry, but I was thinking about that aspect as well earlier today. Based on the .42" that you calculated, I think I'm going to stick with my original thoughts and go with the 12"ers.

Now then, sorry to be a PIA 'cause I asked this in another thread that I started awhile ago, but where did you guys get 'em from and for what price? I checked some of the internet sources mentioned in my thread, but on not one of them did I see the 440-4050's listed. Yeah, I could call them, but a lot of 'net vendors offer free shipping on 'net orders so I don't want to pay more if I don't have to.

Thanks, and I promise to shut up and finally buy some once you tell me your source! [smiley=beerchug.gif]

DavidB · « **Reply #14 on:** January 12, 2005, 10:41:14 PM »

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David and others, thanks for the input.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #15 on:** January 13, 2005, 01:42:53 AM »

I got mine from Krooners. They were least expensive I could find at the time by several dollars.

http://www.krooners.com/

110tHunDer · « **Reply #16 on:** January 13, 2005, 06:41:11 AM »

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I got mine from Krooners.

Laker · « **Reply #17 on:** January 13, 2005, 09:14:46 AM »

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Twolanerider · « **Reply #18 on:** January 13, 2005, 11:41:24 AM »

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Well, poopy pants.

JCZ · « **Reply #19 on:** January 13, 2005, 03:30:20 PM »

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Yes dear, they have telephones and everything.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #20 on:** January 13, 2005, 04:08:59 PM »

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Oh great........and now Twolane, of all people, starts calling grown men "dear".

110tHunDer · « **Reply #21 on:** January 13, 2005, 07:09:20 PM »

ROFLMAO! You guys are a riot. "Poopy pants" was not meant as a salutation like "sir," or "Mr.," nor is it a nickname or synonym for "Twolanerider." Guess I should've stuck with one of the more common versions of what I was really trying to say, like, "Well, shucks," "Aw, $h!t," or "Nuts!" [smiley=oops.gif]

Jackhd · « **Reply #22 on:** January 13, 2005, 07:18:17 PM »

How does your mustang touring seat fit? You like it? Is there a part # for it? How much? [smiley=blank.gif]

110tHunDer · « **Reply #23 on:** January 13, 2005, 07:44:46 PM »

OK, finally bit the bullet and went the http://www.mawonline.com/ route. 4050C's are on their way!

Thanks for the help, everyone! [smiley=beerchug.gif]

David, sorry to hijack your thread. [smiley=oops.gif]

DavidB · « **Reply #24 on:** January 13, 2005, 09:31:39 PM »

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How does your mustang touring seat fit?

GoFastGirl · « **Reply #25 on:** January 14, 2005, 08:40:35 PM »

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Costs about 400.00 direct from Mustang. Its the one piece design that is made for a ROadking

That is quite a bit cheaper than the seat from Corbin. I've had a chance to sit on one from Corbin and it seemed ok. I remember sitting on the stock one also and the Corbin one seemed better for a shorter rider. But if the Mustang is so much cheaper I would like to know how someone thinks it is for width in the front. Would it be good for a shorter rider too?

DavidB · « **Reply #26 on:** January 16, 2005, 07:16:41 PM »

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That is quite a bit cheaper than the seat from Corbin.

lugnut · « **Reply #27 on:** January 17, 2005, 11:30:27 AM »

Did it today. I ordered mine from www.mawonline.com $399.95 plus shipping. 4019/C 12.5". Went with 12.5 instead of 12 because I weigh 250 and travel alot. Chrome instead of balck because there the same price. Thunder does lugnut does. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

110tHunDer · « **Reply #28 on:** January 17, 2005, 01:37:39 PM »

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Thunder does lugnut does.

Laker · « **Reply #29 on:** January 18, 2005, 11:37:22 AM »

Just checked with www.mawonline.com and saw that my 440's shipped yesterday. I hope UPS is fast as I go out of town on Thursday night. I don't know if I can concentrate on business if they are just sitting at home waiting to get on the bike. Oh, the agony. [smiley=nervous.gif]

lugnut · « **Reply #30 on:** January 27, 2005, 05:33:28 PM »

There here but to dam cold to go in the garage and play.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #31 on:** January 30, 2005, 01:33:20 PM »

John, better take a look at the little package of hardware. I just opening mine up to do the install and am missing one of the shouldered sleeves we need for our bikes. Only got three and need four. [smiley=furious.gif] [smiley=furious2.gif] [smiley=furious3.gif]

lugnut · « **Reply #32 on:** January 30, 2005, 01:39:25 PM »

This looks right. Thanks for the heads up.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #33 on:** January 30, 2005, 04:58:56 PM »

Thought you only got two of everything until I scrolled right (big photo, LOL!), but, yeah, you're in good shape. I only got 3 of the do-dads in the top row. Of course, I got 4 of everything else, but nothing else is used for the Electra Glide installation! Again, I say: [smiley=furious.gif] [smiley=furious2.gif] [smiley=furious3.gif]

I would not recommend installing these without a jack underneath the bike as some reported successfully doing. I got quite a bit of compression when I removed the left side shock. Even lifting the rear of the bike back up left me about 1/2" or so short of being able to install the new Progressive and these are the 12" 4050's. Will get the Craftsman jack underneath it and finish the job then once I get the other sleeve I need.

RRSteve · « **Reply #34 on:** January 30, 2005, 07:12:34 PM »

I know what you mean 103. I put mine up on my PitBull jack and then used my floor jack under the rear tire to raise and lower the swing arm.

lugnut · « **Reply #35 on:** January 30, 2005, 07:49:19 PM »

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16HD117 · « **Reply #36 on:** January 30, 2005, 08:58:53 PM »

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So just the do dads is all we need, plus two jacks. One for the frame and one for the rear tire. If that it were good to go as soon as the wheather breaks here in about a month.

Hey John,

You need to seriously consider makin' that move to Atlanta. So far this winter, we've only had a hand full of days that we couldn't ride. [smiley=cool3.gif]

Jock · « **Reply #37 on:** January 30, 2005, 09:36:44 PM »

I hear you there 103lugnut...Sav, GA

Laker · « **Reply #38 on:** January 31, 2005, 09:50:06 AM »

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John, better take a look at the little package of hardware.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #39 on:** January 31, 2005, 10:21:13 AM »

I was thinking about this again last night. The instructions have a 2/00 copyright date on them, so they only covered up through the 2000 year model (why so out-of-date I don't know), but for Electra Glides they said to use the shouldered sleeve like is in the top row of lugnut's picture. Said they allowed for the proper offset or something to that effect. I can post a scan of the instructions tonight. That's what I planned to use on mine, but got to thinking I could probably just use the plain sleeves instead and everything should be good to go.

Laker, mounting without any of the hardware is probably not a good idea as it would leave the mounting bolts in direct contact with the rubber bushings instead of a hard surface like a sleeve and wear the bushings out very quickly, as well as sacrifice the shocks' performance to some extent.

Laker · « **Reply #40 on:** January 31, 2005, 10:29:46 AM »

I appreciate it. I will have to check it out tonight. I thought it was a little odd not to use any of the provided hardware. At least I have not taken the bike for a ride yet. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

MAS · « **Reply #41 on:** January 31, 2005, 11:38:12 AM »

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The instructions I received with the Progressive shocks did not have me using any of the hardware included. I just slapped them bad boys on there. Were my instructions lying to me?

Laker,

Laker · « **Reply #42 on:** January 31, 2005, 11:57:06 AM »

You would think that a product that costs $400 would come with up to date and extremely accurate instructions. Especially on something as important as the shocks. Oh well, not to fear, cvoharley.com is here!! Thanks for the input guys. [smiley=bigok.gif]

DavidB · « **Reply #43 on:** January 31, 2005, 07:48:04 PM »

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You would think that a product that costs $400 would come with up to date and extremely accurate instructions. Especially on something as important as the shocks. Oh well, not to fear, cvoharley.com is here!! Thanks for the input guys.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #44 on:** January 31, 2005, 08:17:43 PM »

Here is the instruction sheet for the hardware.

Laker · « **Reply #45 on:** January 31, 2005, 10:18:11 PM »

Thanks a million for taking the time 103. When I got into the garage tonight and reread the instructions, it all made sense. I also used the stock washer and locking washer and left the progressive washers in the box. Now if the weather would warm a little I might be able to test these puppies out.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #46 on:** January 31, 2005, 10:54:31 PM »

You bet, Laker. Thanks to DavidB, too, for posting his photo. I guess this is proof that all things happen for a reason. If I'd have got all four of my thing-a-ma-jiggers, this never would've come up and you'd have been riding around sleeve-less (and I ain't talking about your t-shirts). [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

lugnut · « **Reply #47 on:** February 02, 2005, 05:38:01 PM »

Thanks gentlemen. It good to know when I get into the garage and start taking things a part I'll have the confidence in knowing what I'am doing. Just need to make it to the garage. THANKS AGAIN

lugnut · « **Reply #48 on:** February 03, 2005, 07:31:43 PM »

Brian, Install the shocks yet. If so did things go smooth

110tHunDer · « **Reply #49 on:** February 03, 2005, 11:21:35 PM »

No, still waiting on the stupid sleeve. I thought it would've been here by now. Are they still using the Pony Express between here and the West Coast?!? I did get the jack under it tonight though, so I'm good to go as soon as it gets here. I will take photos of the install and post those and some instructions when I finally get the job done.

Here's one thing I was thinking about tonight though, while I was messing with the jack . . . For you guys going with something other than the stock 12" length, won't that necessitate adjusting the belt tension?

lugnut · « **Reply #50 on:** February 04, 2005, 07:07:32 PM »

Can I here your thought on the belt tension. Please. Think out loud for me. Thanks

110tHunDer · « **Reply #51 on:** February 04, 2005, 07:55:51 PM »

Yeah, maybe we don't have this question in the right section of the board. I'm surprised no one's responded yet. Maybe it's totally insignificant, but as you add length to the shocks, it seems it would increase the drive belt tension and vise-versa.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #52 on:** February 04, 2005, 09:58:04 PM »

You're not pushing the axle back you're moving the swingarm up or down within the normal suspension arc.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #53 on:** February 04, 2005, 10:09:04 PM »

OK, so why do they tell you to check tension with the bike on the ground? It would be a lot easier to find the tight spot in the belt with the rear wheel in the air (with the bike on a jack). Mind you, not trying to make a big deal out of this, just trying to understand. [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

110tHunDer · « **Reply #54 on:** February 05, 2005, 08:44:57 AM »

Well, I guess Mobe's measurements (see here: http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=eg_gen;action=display;num=1098034542;start=38#38) blow my concern out of the water. I guess I was just being anal and over-analyzing. I'll take it as a sign that winter's getting a little long in the tooth right about now! [smiley=confused.gif]

DavidB · « **Reply #55 on:** February 05, 2005, 09:37:39 AM »

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Well, I guess Mobe's measurements (see here: http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=eg_gen;action=display;num=1098034542;start=38#38) blow my concern out of the water.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #56 on:** February 05, 2005, 12:23:13 PM »

103, I was in a real rush the other day when answering this. I can tell you what the guys at Progressive told me. I assumed there wasn't any particular problem as you're only moving the swingarm in the same arc as it would normally move. That being so I asked them "why the warning unless someone is using shocks that are a ton longer or shorter than stock."

That was the root of their warning. A "cover your ass for liability" kind of thing. In the normal suspension arc it's tightest at one center point and varies within the operating limits within the normal range of travel. But some folks might remove stops or do other things that would allow it to move beyond the normal range of travel. And might mount shocks so short in a misguided attempt at lowering to help that process along. Granted, they'd likely have all kind of other problems to contend with to. But the warning for tightness was reported for those circumstances.

mfgreen · « **Reply #57 on:** February 05, 2005, 04:04:30 PM »

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Can I here your thought on the belt tension. Please. Think out loud for me. Thanks

The tension should be inspected and adjusted periodically. Your thoughts of it having to be done because of taller or shorter shocks is noteworthy. The tension on the belt will not change because the fulcrum point is at the frame and that does not change in relation to the drive cog or the rear cog for the belt. This is proven when your original shock telescopes or compresses. With a longer or shorter stroke that your new fitment of shocks provides, the relationship of the distance of cogs have to each other remains the same distance. All that has changed is the stopping points(of the rear wheel axle) in the arc formed from the connection point of the swingarm to the chassis. It is like an analog clock. The connection point of the swingarm to the frame(where the hands of the clock rotate from) now have a different operating point. Lets say for example that the minute hand used to rest at quarter past thre and with longer shocks the hand would now rest at 3:17 or with shorter shocks the resting point would be 3:13 or thereabouts. Not much of a change and the geometry of the offset that exists between the drive cog and the cog on the rear wheel assembly versus the connection point of the chassis and the swingarm is setup as such that this does not become an issue within the arc of travel that the bike can be operated at.

JR · « **Reply #58 on:** February 05, 2005, 09:41:34 PM »

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OK, finally bit the bullet and went the http://www.mawonline.com/ route.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #59 on:** February 05, 2005, 10:31:19 PM »

JR, the 4050's are the 12.0-inch heavy-duty.

DavidB · « **Reply #60 on:** February 05, 2005, 10:46:28 PM »

The 12.5 inch 440 Hd put a stop to a lot of kickstand draging around corners. I ride 2 up most of the time. When solo the HD shocks are still a lot less harsh than the stock shocks and now bike feels like its on rails.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #61 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:11:07 AM »

The rear suspension on the touring bikes is another area where a decision made for production by HD really escapes me.

Shocks of a type like the Progressives are undeniably better. They will also require less regular maintenance by the rider just because they won't leak down like the air shocks do. They're safer and more comfortable for the rider. There is less overall maintenance due to the lack of air lines and fittings. They would install on the assembly line faster (also due to the lack of air lines). But yet we've had the air shocks on the touring bikes for years; even on the front for a few years.

Can they be that much cheaper to manufacturre? And, even if there is a significant difference, how much cost is worth the difference in handling and the safety thereby accrued?

mfgreen · « **Reply #62 on:** February 06, 2005, 08:38:37 AM »

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The rear suspension on the touring bikes is another area where a decision made for production by HD really escapes me.

Shocks of a type like the Progressives are undeniably better. They will also require less regular maintenance by the rider just because they won't leak down like the air shocks do. They're safer and more comfortable for the rider. There is less overall maintenance due to the lack of air lines and fittings. They would install on the assembly line faster (also due to the lack of air lines). But yet we've had the air shocks on the touring bikes for years; even on the front for a few years.

Can they be that much cheaper to manufacturre? And, even if there is a significant difference, how much cost is worth the difference in handling and the safety thereby accrued?

Now Now two lane rider....
The point you are making is valid and the shock by Showa that is used is significantly cheaper. Harley Davidson is so locked into the decxades old design of what they make that technology that will markedly improve your handling, braking or rideability of these bikes is your responsibility....not the MoCo's. Remember, this bike is just a platform. Sort of a do-it-yourself starter kit. The MoCo does not give two hoots about it because it sells. The most advanced platform offering that will get any play in that area is the V-Rod. That is where you would possibly see any area of significant technical offerings that are even in the same decade of technology that is accepted in the Harley circles of riders. Most of the H-D constituents are having a hard enough time accepting the hydroformed frame that the V-Rod has.
With regards to maintenance, I think that the MoCO and the dealers feel that it is a good thing that the shocks require maintenance, especially by them, for you, as a customer are looked as a revenue source each and every time you walk through the door. It's why it's so difficult to get a straight answer to a question. They can't charge for the answer unless they are currently selling something to you. And even then, the money does not guarantee a straight answer.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #63 on:** February 06, 2005, 09:02:51 AM »

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Can they be that much cheaper to manufacturre?

DavidB · « **Reply #64 on:** February 06, 2005, 09:24:01 AM »

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With regards to maintenance, I think that the MoCO and the dealers feel that it is a good thing that the shocks require maintenance, especially by them, for you, as a customer are looked as a revenue source each and every time you walk through the door.

BLM777 · « **Reply #65 on:** February 06, 2005, 09:24:57 AM »

Amen Bro's for MFG and 2Lane.......HD is undeniably basing their product design, improvements and disgustingly absent concern for consumer satisfaction singularly upon profitability. Couple that corporate motivation with an arrogant and condescending attitude spawned by the "only game in town" phenomenon and you can end up with a CVO unit that allows you to invest another 3-5k to get it to a semi custom look, adequate handling and perfomance to the level of the HD ads. Hmmmmmm.....lots' of room for one, or several of the up and coming "Davids" to hit ol' Goliath repeatedly, right between the running lights.

DavidB · « **Reply #66 on:** February 06, 2005, 09:29:09 AM »

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DavidB, did you ever think posting your photos would end up in a 4+ page thread with as many twists and turns as this one?[/quote

I changed the crappy grips the other day that were causing hand cramps. Maybe I should post a pic of the new ones and see were that takes this thread .

mfgreen · « **Reply #67 on:** February 06, 2005, 09:35:13 AM »

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Amen Bro's for MFG and 2Lane.......HD is undeniably basing their product design, improvements and disgustingly absent concern for consumer satisfaction singularly upon profitability. Couple that corporate motivation with an arrogant and condescending attitude spawned by the "only game in town" phenomenon and you can end up with a CVO unit that allows you to invest another 3-5k to get it to a semi custom look, adequate handling and perfomance to the level of the HD ads. Hmmmmmm.....lots' of room for one, or several of the up and coming "Davids" to hit ol' Goliath repeatedly, right between the running lights.

Sometimes, when I look at the new Harley Davidson ad with the empty garage, I wonder if Harley Davidson is poking fun at the consumer (us) by saying that their product is all a figment of our imagination. Imagining that we are buying the best that they can build. Imagining that they are offering a safe bike Imagining that the brakes work as well as they can Imagining that the chrome isn't pealing. Imagining that the paint isn't flawed. Imagining that the factory gives a damn what we think.....we already bought into the imagination.

lugnut · « **Reply #68 on:** February 06, 2005, 12:33:05 PM »

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There here but to dam cold to go in the garage and play.

Well today is the day. 60* outside ( warmer than jacksonville ) Wondering if I do one at a time or take both off then install new ones. Guess I'll find out once i pull that first bolt. Using two jacks. One under the frame and the other under the rear tire. Wish me luck. I'LL BE BACK

mfgreen · « **Reply #69 on:** February 06, 2005, 12:57:10 PM »

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Well today is the day. 60* outside ( warmer than jacksonville ) Wondering if I do one at a time or take both off then install new ones. Guess I'll find out once i pull that first bolt. Using two jacks. One under the frame and the other under the rear tire. Wish me luck. I'LL BE BACK

Lucked out with the weather......hoping that the changeover is as good to you. With two jacks, I think that either method will work.....I would opt for the most stable.

mfgreen · « **Reply #70 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:05:02 PM »

One more thought, if you remove the existing shock on one side, I believe that the new shock should line up pretty darn close to be able to put it in its place and torque it down. Then movin' to the other side should produce the same great results.

lugnut · « **Reply #71 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:23:29 PM »

That was a mindless job. 10 minutes Just was thinking of all the possibilty. Took one side off and it didn't line up ( 12.5 ) Then took othere side off and lowered the jack under the tire. OK next question. Don't have battery in and still salt laying around on the roads for me to go for a ride. Were did you end up on the adjustment. Screwed mine down two turns to start. I noticed they can turn up 7 times before it took a effert to turn. ( bike was still on the jack. Thanks for the help and support.

lugnut · « **Reply #72 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:26:23 PM »

Think I can tackle the fluid change in the forks next? I know I can but think to much. With "you all" support anythings possible. THANKS

mfgreen · « **Reply #73 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:32:22 PM »

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Think I can tackle the fluid change in the forks next? I know I can but think to much. With "you all" support anythings possible. THANKS

Congratulations, glad you did not have to post in "them thar tools". Yeah you can do the front end. It will take you longer than the 10 minutes you just spent. Plan on 1 to 2 hours with it and you are going to be just fine.

lugnut · « **Reply #74 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:34:38 PM »

hope not to big

lugnut · « **Reply #75 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:35:40 PM »

Size does matter

mfgreen · « **Reply #76 on:** February 06, 2005, 01:53:27 PM »

Lugnut,
The pix are good. The shocks installation looks good and professional. Now, tell the wife that you are spending the money that you saved on labor on a ride this spring(with her). She'll probably ask you what else you would like to do to the bike and what the rewards to her will be for that.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #77 on:** February 06, 2005, 04:31:17 PM »

John, are you gonna leave the shock filler valve on just to fake people out? [smiley=lolk.gif]

lugnut · « **Reply #78 on:** February 06, 2005, 04:47:40 PM »

LOL When I was taking the filler do dads off I noticed that. All gone. LOL

lugnut · « **Reply #79 on:** February 06, 2005, 04:50:51 PM »

Brian was out looking at Magnums today. Thier hot. Also looking for the answer to my ? about were folks have there adjustment on their shocks. I started at 2 turns.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #80 on:** February 06, 2005, 05:15:01 PM »

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110tHunDer · « **Reply #81 on:** February 08, 2005, 07:14:02 AM »

Got my sleeve yesterday and guess what - they sent the WRONG ONE! The one they sent is too short and the shoulder is too thick. My 20-minute shock install is turning into a 2-week ordeal and that is only if they overnight the correct one this time like I asked and I get it wrapped up this weekend. [smiley=furious.gif] [smiley=furious2.gif] [smiley=furious3.gif]

110tHunDer · « **Reply #82 on:** February 09, 2005, 07:59:27 PM »

Well, it looks gently used, but I finally got the correct sleeve today. Two weeks after starting this, I should be able to get done with the install this weekend. Glad I decided to do this during the winter instead of riding season.

WFP · « **Reply #83 on:** February 09, 2005, 09:52:54 PM »

so what's the preferred, 12 or 12.5...I ain't light at 265+ so I will go HD version but don't know, 12 or 12.5?

/Bill

DavidB · « **Reply #84 on:** February 09, 2005, 11:18:03 PM »

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so what's the preferred, 12 or 12.5...I ain't light at 265+ so I will go HD version but don't know, 12 or 12.5?

/Bill

The 12.5 helped with the draging floorboards in curves. But I still drag the kickstand from time to time.

spydglide · « **Reply #85 on:** February 27, 2005, 03:43:05 PM »

Had the local HD shop install the adjustable air shocks w/ on-board pump so that I can drop it 'in the weeds' for either looks or ease of manuverability around a parking lot and raise it way up for cornering ground clearance while riding the twistys.......have been very pleased (after getting over the initial cost). Makes the Black & Blue SEEG fit me better since I'm a old timer chopper rider that can never seem to get my current Harley to sit as low as my ole hard-tailed knuckle.

the O`Fender · « **Reply #86 on:** February 28, 2005, 10:01:52 AM »

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Had the local HD shop install the adjustable air shocks w/ on-board pump so that I can drop it 'in the weeds' for either looks or ease of manuverability around a parking lot and raise it way up for cornering ground clearance while riding the twistys.......have been very pleased (after getting over the initial cost). Makes the Black & Blue SEEG fit me better since I'm a old timer chopper rider that can never seem to get my current Harley to sit as low as my ole hard-tailed knuckle.

spy who's gear did you purchase (manufacturer & model)?

spydglide · « **Reply #87 on:** February 28, 2005, 10:35:07 AM »

O'Fender, air shocks system made by Legend, not sure of the model #....I had the HD Dealer order it to fit the '04 SEEG and install it during set-up. Cost was a little over $1600 if I remember right. I've been very pleased w/ it.

lugnut · « **Reply #88 on:** March 26, 2005, 05:07:57 PM »

WOW What a ride. Winter is over. Went for a ride and was off in la la land listen to the XM radio with the hog tunes when I started thinking this bike rides like my SE Road Glide when I remembered I changed the shocks. What a differents. Then I started looking for the bumps and pot holes. Ended up twisting them 2 1/2 turns from the top. I weight 250 and I got the 12.5 HD 440. Anyone on the fence about this upgrade, DO IT. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Brian I just put the chrome bezels pieces over my speaker grills. You don't have them do you.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #89 on:** March 26, 2005, 07:24:36 PM »

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Brian I just put the chrome bezels pieces over my speaker grills. You don't have them do you.

LOL! No.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #90 on:** April 04, 2005, 08:59:33 PM »

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WOW What a ride. Winter is over. Went for a ride and was off in la la land listen to the XM radio with the hog tunes when I started thinking this bike rides like my SE Road Glide when I remembered I changed the shocks. What a differents. Then I started looking for the bumps and pot holes. Ended up twisting them 2 1/2 turns from the top. I weight 250 and I got the 12.5 HD 440. Anyone on the fence about this upgrade, DO IT. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Brian I just put the chrome bezels pieces over my speaker grills. You don't have them do you.

Finally got some miles on the bike with the Progressives and momma on the back and yes, these things are a HUGE improvement over the stock air shocks. My wife noticed a night and day difference in the quality of the ride. I agree with lugnut and others, this is definately money well spent.

Although I scraped the right floorboard and bracket pretty hard on a tight right-hander, there was still a noticeable improvement in lean angle in more "normal" turns and this is with the 12" HDs. With as little as 2 turns, I can see the rear of the bike sits up higher than with any amount of air using the old shocks. How I can tell is I can clearly see more of the axle nut showing between the passenger side pipe and saddlebag than in the photos I have of the bike prior to doing the shock change.

Making adjustments takes only slightly more time than pulling the air pump out of the saddlebag lid organizer, removing the valve cover, and pumping air into the old shocks. Even though you have to remove each bag and adjust one shock at a time, it takes no effort at all to make a quick adjustment. We started out with 1 turn and ended up with 3.5 being the best for us two-up. Solo, I will probably run 2 or 2.5 turns.

These things are great and like lugnut says, if you are on the fence, get off!

BAKRDS · « **Reply #91 on:** April 05, 2005, 11:13:29 PM »

I'm running 12.5 heavy duty 440s. They feel good to me at the softest setting. I go 250& hide solo allthe time. The turns on the 440s or air psi in the stock shocks won't change the ride hight , only The dampening. I may have missunderstood ,but it seemed someone though that was the case. If I were to order again I would't get the heavy dutys.Rideing solo I think I could use less spring preload

110tHunDer · « **Reply #92 on:** April 06, 2005, 07:39:01 AM »

I think I disagree with that, BAKRDS. Turning the ring at the top of the 440s adjusts the spring preload, not dampening. The IAS circuit in these shocks is what controls the dampening. If you dial up more preload you will have somewhat less compression of the spring which can result in a somewhat higher static seat height and, therefore, ground clearance. It wasn't a lot and I didn't take any measurements, but there was a noticeable (to the naked eye) increase in the ride-height of my bike going from no preload up to 3.5 turns.

Author Topic: Progressive 12.5 B (Read 19084 times)

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