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[roadrunner]

Hello All,

My battery tender lead ends out the left side cover and has about 6" of cable and keeps getting the end chewed up.

How is everyone securing the lead so I doesn't get chewed up?

Thanks!

Update;
Funny instructions for Tender Harness states the following;
See Figure 8. Route the harness connector (6) down along the front of the battery, then to the right toward the space between the right frame tube and battery box (5).
Cleanly tuck the in-line fuse (2) into the nest directly in front of the battery. Bring the harness connector out under the right side of the battery box and continue to route through the hole or slot in the frame sheet metal (4) down to just above the oil fill (7) dipstick. Use a cable strap and secure the connector to the conduit on the existing harness running vertically near the frame tube. Trim any excess from the cable strap.
Proceed to ALL Models, Step 4. (install seat)

Not sure why my tender harness is on the left side.

[KGB]

I use the tethered cap and loop it around the left saddle bag support


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[grc]

You can run the lead out whichever side you want (there should be a lot more than six inches of wire).  When you connect the battery tender, which side is the tender located on?  That would be the obvious side to locate the bike harness connector.

Everyone has their own circumstances and preferences, so there is no single answer.  Personally, I prefer to have my bikes connector secured to the bike in a location where I can just pop off the weather cap and connect the tender wire without having to move the bike harness at all.  Mine is secured to the metal panel between the rear of the engine and the battery compartment with heavy duty 3M exterior grade mounting tape, and it's been there for over ten years without a problem.  My charger is on the wall next to where I park the bike, located where the charger harness easily reaches the bike connector.  You can also use plastic tie straps to attach your bike connector to frame tubes or anywhere you desire, just make sure you locate it where it won't be damaged by heat or get pinched/crushed during operation of the bike and suspension.  Once you have the connector located and secured, use ties to secure the rest of the wire harness.

Jerry

[Grizzly]

Hello All,

My battery tender lead ends out the left side cover and has about 6" of cable and keeps getting the end chewed up.

How is everyone securing the lead so I doesn't get chewed up?

Thanks!

Update;
Funny instructions for Tender Harness states the following;
See Figure 8. Route the harness connector (6) down along the front of the battery, then to the right toward the space between the right frame tube and battery box (5).
Cleanly tuck the in-line fuse (2) into the nest directly in front of the battery. Bring the harness connector out under the right side of the battery box and continue to route through the hole or slot in the frame sheet metal (4) down to just above the oil fill (7) dipstick. Use a cable strap and secure the connector to the conduit on the existing harness running vertically near the frame tube. Trim any excess from the cable strap.
Proceed to ALL Models, Step 4. (install seat)

Not sure why my tender harness is on the left side.

Having it on the left side makes it less likely to be noticed when the bike is parked on its' side stand.

Don't know if you use heated gear, but I use the same lead for my charger and my heated gear, so my lead comes out on the left side just under the front of the seat near the back left corner of the tank.  When the bike is on the side stand you can hardly notice it, and it is the best place for use with my heated gear.

[ultrarider123]

Having it on the left side makes it less likely to be noticed when the bike is parked on the side stand.

Exactamundo!  The '15 was routed to hang on the money side but it's one of the things I changed right off the bat to the primary side.  It's routed so I have just enough slack to keep it tucked under the primary side cover lip.  When I know it's going to be parked for a few days or longer, I can pop the bottom of the cover, pull the lead out and waller, easy charge.  Just as easy to unplug and re-tuck the lead.

I don't have any heated gear but my way would make it hard to use the lead if you did.

[NH Bulldog]

Mine is on the left side, under the side panel cover.  It is also very short, just enough to stick out from under the cover.  I have not used it yet because I just got the bike in June and it is ridden regularly.  As fall settles in, I intend to take a look and re-route so it is more readily accessible for quick connect/disconnect as it sits longer and longer.   My 2012 was on the right side, not hidden and was easy to access (although it did fall onto the exhaust a few times and melt the end off). 

[CVODON]

X2 on what Haird said.

[iski]

I use the tethered cap and loop it around the left saddle bag support


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Like this idea, tried it, so far so good.  Thanks for posting a pic.

[KGB]

   Like this idea, tried it, so far so good.  Thanks for posting a pic.

No problem, Damn my bike is dirty 

[roadrunner]

Thanks all!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Ironhorse]

Mine is routed up through the center console on the tank, where it is mounted with a capped female plug. There I can plug in either my charger, or my heated gear. My passengers plug passes through the leather grab handle over the back seat where she can plug in there.

[Trigger-Man]

How is everyone securing the lead so I doesn't get chewed up?

Not sure why my tender harness is on the left side.

I tuck mine behind the passenger grab strap bracket. It's handy and secure there

[iski]

I tuck mine behind the passenger grab strap bracket. It's handy and secure there

X2.   Have already gone back to this method, easier to use, like it better.

[ultrarider123]

I tuck mine behind the passenger grab strap bracket. It's handy and secure there

Great idea and would be an excellent spot...if I ever kept the passenger strap and bracket on my bike.  That's one of those things that gets removed when it comes home for the first time

[moscooter]

 
I'm not understanding anyone on the plus side of 50-60 wanting to deal with that damn tender connector routing down the left side and exiting at the bottom of the left side cover.  My '14 SG Special came that way from the dealer along with another new tender.  To keep it from dangling out the bottom of that side cover,  I put a small piece of velcro on the back of the bottom edge of the cover and the other velcro piece on the dust cover deal for the tender.

This way,  I can just pull loose the bottom edge of the cover and fish out the tender cord and connect up.  However,  on the side stand.......this is too low to suit me.

My '09 Ultra came with a tender setup too,  but the cord routed out thru a hole in the frame under the seat and zipped tied down the right side.  Very convenient and obviously easier as it's higher up when bike on side stand.

When my current battery needs replacement,  to be sure I will be re-routing my tender to the right side.

[Para Bellum]

Mine is on the left side, under the side panel cover.  It is also very short, just enough to stick out from under the cover.  I have not used it yet because I just got the bike in June and it is ridden regularly.  As fall settles in, I intend to take a look and re-route so it is more readily accessible for quick connect/disconnect as it sits longer and longer.   My 2012 was on the right side, not hidden and was easy to access (although it did fall onto the exhaust a few times and melt the end off). 

I noticed on the '18s the tender cord is where NHB said above, but there's another wrinkle:  Where the cord goes into the inside of the frame, it enters a wiring harness--and then it's invisible.  Didn't spend a lot of time on it, but couldn't find where it went; didn't go to the battery + terminal like the "add-on" harnesses do.  I did see where the '18s owner's manual says both the Main fuse and the P & A fuse must be inserted to use the battery tender cable.

[grc]

I noticed on the '18s the tender cord is where NHB said above, but there's another wrinkle:  Where the cord goes into the inside of the frame, it enters a wiring harness--and then it's invisible.  Didn't spend a lot of time on it, but couldn't find where it went; didn't go to the battery + terminal like the "add-on" harnesses do.  I did see where the '18s owner's manual says both the Main fuse and the P & A fuse must be inserted to use the battery tender cable.

The battery tender lead is part of the wiring harness now, and it is connected to the P&A fuse.  So you won't find leads going to the battery, which is a good thing.  Another good thing is the fuse is twice the amp rating of the old add-on style tender harnesses.

Jerry

[ultrarider123]

The battery tender lead is part of the wiring harness now, and it is connected to the P&A fuse.  So you won't find leads going to the battery, which is a good thing.  Another good thing is the fuse is twice the amp rating of the old add-on style tender harnesses.

Jerry

So THAT'S why the MSRP is up another couple thousand for the '18's.....

[Para Bellum]

So THAT'S why the MSRP is up another couple thousand for the '18's.....

(head palm)  Of course!   

[iski]

So THAT'S why the MSRP is up another couple thousand for the '18's.....

Does this mean in 2019 the little cap on end of the wiring harness won't be included and will be a $50 option.   

[ultrarider123]

Does this mean in 2019 the little cap on end of the wiring harness won't be included and will be a $50 option.   

$50?  Really?  Don't you know HD stands for "Hunerd-doller"....

[Ironhorse]

Here's the one on my tank console. I planned on using it for my heated gear, but it's used mostly for the Battery Tender.

[Ironhorse]

The one we use the most is here, run up through the grab strap. When my wife rides along I use a "Y" splitter
for both of us.

[iski]

$50?  Really?  Don't you know HD stands for "Hunerd-doller"....

In 2020 it will cost $100.  Will be the 3rd "new improved version" of the 2019 model cap that fell off when the bike was going faster than 45 mph. 

[Grizzly]

Here's the one on my tank console. I planned on using it for my heated gear, but it's used mostly for the Battery Tender.

Now that's the neatest job I've seen thus far... Where did you get the parts to complete it?

Thanks in advance.
Mike

[Ironhorse]

Now that's the neatest job I've seen thus far... Where did you get the parts to complete it?

Thanks in advance.
Mike

Mike,

I got it from Gerbing: https://www.gerbing.com/panel-mount
Another good source for hook ups and connectors is http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-product/power-cables/PWRCBL
This is what I use to control the heat. http://www.warmnsafe.com/dual-remote-control-heat-troller/

Hope this helps.

Mark

[Grizzly]

Thanks Mark. 

[bigchuck]

Great idea and would be an excellent spot...if I ever kept the passenger strap and bracket on my bike.  That's one of those things that gets removed when it comes home for the first time

Passenger grab handle is required by Texas law even with backrest.

[ultrarider123]

Passenger grab handle is required by Texas law even with backrest.

No kidding?  Lawmakers are so funny.  Probably lots of money from the grab handle lobby....

Have they ever actually looked at the "safety straps" and how useless they really are?  And also still required if there is a backrest/tourpac? 

Oh well, I guess that puts me out of moving to Texas....

[roadrunner]

Follow up, replacing the stock harness, expecting to find harness connected to the battery .

Found out Rushmore models have the harness preinstalled and not connected to the battery.

Going to check the manual, any one replace your preinstalled battery tender harness?

Thanks

[grc]

Follow up, replacing the stock harness, expecting to find harness connected to yhe battery .

Found out Rushmore models have the harness preinstalled and not connected to the battery.

Going to check the manual, any one replace your preinstalled battery tender harness?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Why replace the stock harness?  If the end is damaged, get another one and splice it to the stock wire.  It's a much better setup than the old ones attached directly to the battery terminals.  If you just want a longer wire, you can buy extension cables from Deltran (Battery Tender) that will plug in to the existing connector.  Trying to think of reasons to change, those were all I could come up with.

Jerry

[roadrunner]

Thanks, dealer also recommended the same!

End was worn off, spliced it and zip tied to saddle bag guard.