Topic: Goal 95-100 HP & 115-120 TQ (Read 23941 times)

Zinister · « **on:** October 27, 2009, 02:19:20 AM »

I'm looking at V&H 2-2 Big Radius pipes, a dyno tune (SERT?), and a bolt in cam.

Is this easily doable and does anyone have suggestions on which bolt in cam. This in in a 110B so no high revs, I want power in the cruising RPMs.

Thanks for any ideas and/or suggestions.

Unbalanced · « **Reply #1 on:** October 27, 2009, 02:25:41 AM »

115/105 with just pipes / A/C and Freedom YB14sec07 cam. Check with the mod Marty his dyno is around here. (110mofo)

Back in 07 my 110 ultra was 116/104 with rinehart true duals and A/C and this same cam. Dyno is in the ultra section

So i think its doable / close to what you are asking for.

Zinister · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2009, 02:29:22 AM »

I forgot to mention this is a 2009 CVO Springer so it also has the AC already from the factory.

I was also looking at getting the QQT baffles for the pipes.

MKW · « **Reply #3 on:** October 27, 2009, 03:28:41 AM »

Quote from: Zinister on October 27, 2009, 02:19:20 AM

I'm looking at V&H 2-2 Big Radius pipes, a dyno tune (SERT?), and a bolt in cam.

Is this easily doable and does anyone have suggestions on which bolt in cam. This in in a 110B so no high revs, I want power in the cruising RPMs.

Thanks for any ideas and/or suggestions.

I have S&S 585 gear driven cams in my 2003 95CI motor. Great crusing power but lack that low end torque. Overall, pretty happy with the build but would like a better mid range cam. If you like the cruising power this is a good one. I get 95HP at 4500-5000 RPM range. No need to downshift when I want to pass on the highway. I'll post the dyno when I get back to TX.

aka_Matt · « **Reply #4 on:** October 27, 2009, 06:06:07 PM »

HQ500 cam would wake it up alot... don't wanna go to big with the stock 9.1 compression...

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #5 on:** October 27, 2009, 07:08:45 PM »

The 110s are pipe picky
That pipe is a power killer IMO, sorry to say. Some that will work Thunderheader, stock softail headpipes and Cycle Shack 1 3/4 tapers, Basanni Road Rage or Pro Streets just to name a few. No cam will fix the pipe issue and in fact as the overlap increases the bad pipe manifests itself

redtwin · « **Reply #6 on:** October 27, 2009, 09:14:41 PM »

In my 07 springer i used the andrews 55 cams reinhardt 2-1 pipe,105/120 w/sert

maddog110 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 27, 2009, 09:48:59 PM »

Dont put a ugly thunderheader on a bike like that! Yes it will make more power but, it will not make you happy to look at the total package. The 2-2s are great looking and sounding pipes-worth a couple ponies, IMO!!!

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #8 on:** October 27, 2009, 10:22:10 PM »

Would agree on the TH plus they have a chrome problem and chintzy shields.

Zinister · « **Reply #9 on:** October 28, 2009, 08:39:33 PM »

I think I'mvery limited on the pipes. I can't find many for an '09 Springer. I really don't like the looks of the 2-1 pipes so I might suffer a little for looks.

Don't most people see low 90's HP withjust a tune and V&H 2-2? I wasn't looking for much more from the cam. Is it the TQ that will suffer the most from these pipes?

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #10 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:32:36 PM »

We need to build as much torque in the 2-4k range as we can and a pipe that is not scavenging and is very open is a candidate to create reversion in that range when the cam is not stock (more overlap) is used. The stock headpipes have a very good design when coupled with Cycle Shacks if you like the 2 into 2 look.

Zinister · « **Reply #11 on:** October 28, 2009, 10:40:44 PM »

What kind of slip on mufflers would you use? I wouldn't mind a set of Screaming Eagle brand if they would fit/work with this cam.

Which cam is it? Is there a catalytic converter in my pipes and should I remove it if there is?

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #12 on:** October 29, 2009, 12:05:38 AM »

Your bike has the SE255 which is very mild
Take a look here
The tapered mufflers work very well

http://www.cycle-shack.com/cycle/agora.cgi?cart_id=6354137.14374*ma7lG1&product=2007&user4=Slip-Fit%20Mufflers

Zinister · « **Reply #13 on:** October 29, 2009, 02:35:10 AM »

Dewey what cam do you recomend? Would you invest in the Screaming Eagle cam plate with the new bolt in cam?

Sorry so many questions but a I've read allot of your comments and you seem to be pretty knowledgeable about engine builds.

I read the posts about below this one about the results from the cam and fullsac install. Kinda looks like what I'm after power wise.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #14 on:** October 29, 2009, 08:56:25 AM »

As a bolt-in cam I would run one of a few:
Woods TW5-6, high peak torque and lots of midrange punch (2-4k torque rise)
S&S 570 or 585 depending on if the compression is raised, little more HP little less punch
Remember that the cam is not going to be the saver, the part that brings everything home, just assists.
The pipe and tune will need to be spot on. If so I see no reason why you can not reach your goal and more, of course with headwork even easier and the torque range is extended.

Zinister · « **Reply #15 on:** October 29, 2009, 10:25:11 AM »

I think for now it would just be pipes, a tune, and an maybe a cam. Are my stock pipes allot worse than say the V&H 2-2. I don't mind the way they look as much as they are too quiet.

I'm thinking of buying a fatboy or low rider for the wife. I'm going to get her something 2007 or newer so that means I'm going to hold off on any major investments on my bike for next year. Gotta keep momma happy so that I can waste my money ha ha ha ha.

Zinister · « **Reply #16 on:** November 15, 2009, 01:54:43 AM »

Dewey,

I talked to my local dealership about tuning the bike like a friend as had done. The bike is an 08 SE Dyna. He got 114 RWHP and 121 RWTQ. He put a woods cam and cleaned up the heads, said he did nothing more than clean up the casting. He's running V&H long shots and those are way too damn loud!!!!

I was hoping to skip the head work at this time and go with slips ons. I wondered what you thought about Bub 7 slip ons or even the whole 2-2 Bub 7 exhaust. I don't know if there is any advantage to getting the whole system as you said the stock '09 pipes are pretty good.

Dealership offered free dyno tune if I had the cam install done there. Total price for SERT, Wood Cam and install, Dyno tune = $1200.00

SERK3 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 15, 2009, 07:44:36 AM »

Quote from: Zinister on November 15, 2009, 01:54:43 AM

Dewey,

I talked to my local dealership about tuning the bike like a friend as had done. The bike is an 08 SE Dyna. He got 114 RWHP and 121 RWTQ. He put a woods cam and cleaned up the heads, said he did nothing more than clean up the casting. He's running V&H long shots and those are way too damn loud!!!!

I was hoping to skip the head work at this time and go with slips ons. I wondered what you thought about Bub 7 slip ons or even the whole 2-2 Bub 7 exhaust. I don't know if there is any advantage to getting the whole system as you said the stock '09 pipes are pretty good.

Dealership offered free dyno tune if I had the cam install done there. Total price for SERT, Wood Cam and install, Dyno tune = $1200.00

Which Woods Cam did he use? I would also like to get in this same range, Only difference is mine is a 07 110 SE Road King, Not sure if that would make any diff erence or not.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #18 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:13:08 AM »

114 RWHP and 121 RWTQ

OK so is that SAE? I would like to see the dyno and know that the dyno is in fact a Dynojet 250I with a recent calibration and newer Winpep software. That said the shape of the curve is more important not just what peak numbers that are hit. I could get anyone a combo to hit very high numbers but the bike is not going to be a lot of fun to ride especially if it is a bagger.

Don't know anything about the Bubs. I stand firm on Cycle Shacks. They work. Dewey got 95hp and 115tq out of his stock 110 springer with just a TFI to tune it with, those pipes or close, stock mufflers cored and Cycle Shack baffles.

GtreetSlide · « **Reply #19 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:37:56 AM »

In my opinion, building a fast harley is no different than building a motor for a race car. You really only have two options; HP or TQ based build.

That said; a good HP motor makes power at higher RPMs because the cams (and everything else) are designed to "anticipate" moving fuel efficiently when the motor is really spinning up. A good TQ motor makes power at much lower RPMs by design. If you are going to use the bike mostly for drag racing, then HP is definitely the way to go, but riding in tight twisties and traffic is gonna make you hate the motor. If you spend most of your time riding at 200-4500 rpms, TQ is definitely the way to go.

Any combination of parts you use are aimed at primarily HP or TQ and some attempt to get a reasonable combination of the two. The Most important part is "HOW you ride" and a "good Balance" of the parts you use. I've seen a lot of diappointed people who combined parts that don't compliment each other.

My advice is; first "pick your Power Range", then do with combinations proven to hit that target... But, even the Best tuner can't get a good tune unless the parts are in agreement...

jimbob

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #20 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:50:42 AM »

Want a test of how fun these bikes can be?
Add the torque numbers from 2-4k rpm at 100rpm increments and compare those numbers. Or average them.
I get phone calls every day from guys that swear they want big hp numbers and when they tell me what that means they define high wide torque curves.
I give them that and the HP rides shotgun, it's part of the formula.

Zinister · « **Reply #21 on:** November 15, 2009, 01:37:59 PM »

I'm definitely going for the TQ build. That's why I bought a Harley vs a crotch rocket.

I'll get which Woods cam he wants to use and I'll check on the dyno facts. The place that's doing the work is Clinton Harley in Clinton Iowa. I met the guy with the Dyna and he raced my friend on his tweaked Buell and wasted the Buell. The owner says he can fry the back tire at will when going down the road in town which indicates allot of TQ versus peak numbers.

As always thanks to everyone helping me with the Harley build process. I'm very good at the car building but never had a Harley to play with.

FLTRI · « **Reply #22 on:** November 15, 2009, 02:42:30 PM »

If budget is the issue, the CycleShack slipons are the best way to go.
If max TQ and a 2into1 is preferred look, the Thunderheader is the king.
Then there is everything else.
We sell Thunderheaders 10:1 over any other pipe for best performance. Their quality control has improved recently. Better chrome and bracketing.
The Thunderheader is also adjustable for those high overlap cam profiles that creates reversion.
They also have come out with a tru-dual for '09-up baggers with a balance tube hidden between them. We've tuned a couple of these and they work great.
If performance results are important the Thunderheader is a great pipe.
As always, JMHO,
Bob

L.A.Player · « **Reply #23 on:** November 17, 2009, 04:08:00 AM »

IMO I think the Thunderheader is a good choice. On my 2006 FLTRI I have Thunderheader slipon's, HD 95" kit with Headquarters 0034 bolt in cams, SE heavy duty spring and a Direct Link tune. I'm getting 98 ft lbs of torque out of this thing. I'm going to experiment by changing the exhaust to a D&D 2 into 1 Fatcat and see where it takes me. Thats's also a good pipe. Just ask the CVO members.

Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle · « **Reply #24 on:** November 20, 2009, 11:00:24 PM »

Quote from: Zinister on October 27, 2009, 02:19:20 AM

I'm looking at V&H 2-2 Big Radius pipes, a dyno tune (SERT?), and a bolt in cam.

Is this easily doable and does anyone have suggestions on which bolt in cam. This in in a 110B so no high revs, I want power in the cruising RPMs.

Thanks for any ideas and/or suggestions.

Easily doable with a Supertrapp (or other decent exhaust such D&D) and a set of 259E cams.

Zig · « **Reply #25 on:** December 08, 2009, 09:59:40 PM »

My local guy has been talking about the SE259 E cams, along with the v&h pro pipe for my 110. trouble is V&H is talking January b4 they will be ready for the 2010s. Numbers like 110hp/130tq are being thrown about, but I haven't seen the dyno yet. Any experience with this combo?

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #26 on:** December 17, 2009, 07:01:43 PM »

Several Wood cams, would take you there.

SBB · « **Reply #27 on:** December 17, 2009, 07:46:30 PM »

Numbers like 110hp/130tq are being thrown about, but I haven't seen the dyno yet.[/

I have found the secret to 125 H/P and 135 Torque.
Ask the red bike guys, they been holding back on us.
Take your stock CVO mufflers, powder coat them red, instant 125/135.
The secret is out, red mufflers rule!
But I haven't seen the dyno yet.

SBB

Zig · « **Reply #28 on:** December 23, 2009, 11:46:43 PM »

I just added a CR 575 cam, D&D 2/1 pipes and a high flow K&N intake. No head work, stock pistons, and got 102/123. Most of the torque is in the 2500-3500 range, so it is very usable power.
Zig

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #29 on:** December 24, 2009, 08:08:00 AM »

Quote from: Zigg on December 23, 2009, 11:46:43 PM

I just added a CR 575 cam, D&D 2/1 pipes and a high flow K&N intake. No head work, stock pistons, and got 102/123. Most of the torque is in the 2500-3500 range, so it is very usable power.
Zig

Zigg do you notice any more engine noise with the cr cam? Thanks Doc

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #30 on:** December 24, 2009, 11:32:31 AM »

I admit bias. My choice would be the Woods TW5-6 to accomplish the same goal (similar timing) but I am sure the CR cam is good too they are both ground by Andrews.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #31 on:** December 24, 2009, 06:46:00 PM »

Curious if theyre both ground by Andrews then why wouldnt you just use an "Andrews" Cam?

Twolanerider · « **Reply #32 on:** December 25, 2009, 12:44:43 AM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on December 24, 2009, 06:46:00 PM

Curious if theyre both ground by Andrews then why wouldnt you just use an "Andrews" Cam?

Andrews machines cams for many others. They're the machinist in those cases but not the designer. The profile comes from someone else and Andrews just cuts them to spec. Andrews also ahs their own cams. Products they have both designed and cut.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #33 on:** December 25, 2009, 01:04:11 AM »

They all have different timing and lift events. Rates of lift vary. Nothing wrong with Andrews native grinds either but really this CVO 110 is a little differant motor, mainly the heads, and zeroing in on what the owners, as a whole, mostly want and what the motor needs to get there enables a smaller company to create a custom. In the case of Wood cams all of their cams are designed to pack a punch in their designated rpm range. FYI anybody can contact Andrews and have a custom ground if you are real adept at IC engine design you may hit a winner. Software helps create the recipe.

Zinister · « **Reply #34 on:** December 25, 2009, 02:40:44 PM »

Dewey, what do you think of the TW7 for a SESS3 with no head work done? Just tuning and slip on exhaust.

I'm still thinking about going with BUB 7 slip ons. And I got the SERT for xmas, actually I have to go pick it up from the dealer over the break.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #35 on:** December 25, 2009, 03:49:51 PM »

The TW7 will offer an improvement but may not be worth the loss of warranty and expense without added compression, minor headwork, and a custom tune.

SBB · « **Reply #36 on:** December 25, 2009, 06:02:20 PM »

Quote from: Deweysheads on December 25, 2009, 03:49:51 PM

The TW7 will offer an improvement but may not be worth the loss of warranty and expense without added compression, minor headwork, and a custom tune.

Thanks for that news Don.
My dealer installed my TW7H and I have full warranty.
With the "custom tune" it's over 100 ft. lbs. at 2200 rpm and stays above 100 till 5800.
The 2 year warranty runs out 10-01-2010, then I may go for "added compression" and "minor headwork", but then again, maybe not.
Time will tell, I should be close to 40K miles by the end of the warranty period so who knows.
Thanks for all your help!

SBB

Zinister · « **Reply #37 on:** December 27, 2009, 01:10:12 AM »

Dewey do you recommend TW5-6 over the TW7h?

Is this because of the lack of headwork and compression?

What do you think the difference in performance would be without the headwork as I may do this at a latter date but, after the warranty is over.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #38 on:** December 28, 2009, 09:34:16 AM »

The TW5-6 is a perfect bolt-in for the 110 stock motor, however adjustable pushrods are needed. It will deliver all the low end torque and more yet not give up the ghost as quick upstairs. The TW7 is OK but so close to the 5 and the 5 will work for the grunt guys. The guys looking at the dyno numbers and that don't mind a little more gear shifting I would lead them toward a TW408-44 or an S&S grind. Even the SE259 looks promising but no direct experience with that yet.

harleyguynv · « **Reply #39 on:** December 28, 2009, 10:01:01 AM »

Quote from: Deweysheads on December 28, 2009, 09:34:16 AM

The TW5-6 is a perfect bolt-in for the 110 stock motor, however adjustable pushrods are needed. It will deliver all the low end torque and more yet not give up the ghost as quick upstairs. The TW7 is OK but so close to the 5 and the 5 will work for the grunt guys. The guys looking at the dyno numbers and that don't mind a little more gear shifting I would lead them toward a TW408-44 or an S&S grind. Even the SE259 looks promising but no direct experience with that yet.

Do you have a Dyno chart showing the TW5-6 in a stock motor with AC and pipes? If not what would you say the numbers would be? Can you bolt this in without changing the head gastets, which is what I'm interested in doing. I'm thinking about the CR575 also. The CR575's supposedly run pretty quiet. How noisey is the woods with a chain drive? I appreciate all of your input on this site!!

Zig · « **Reply #40 on:** December 28, 2009, 11:04:32 PM »

Doc, it seems the engine is actually quieter than before-Pipe is shouting though. The range I used to hear the valve train clatter was at low speed around 2500 and up. That seems to have toned down quite a bit. The tune richened up the mix a bit, so, it runs cooler too.

Zigg

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #41 on:** December 28, 2009, 11:45:57 PM »

Quote from: SBB on December 25, 2009, 06:02:20 PM

Thanks for that news Don.
My dealer installed my TW7H and I have full warranty.
With the "custom tune" it's over 100 ft. lbs. at 2200 rpm and stays above 100 till 5800.
The 2 year warranty runs out 10-01-2010, then I may go for "added compression" and "minor headwork", but then again, maybe not.
Time will tell, I should be close to 40K miles by the end of the warranty period so who knows.
Thanks for all your help!

SBB

You are luck to have a good performance oriented dealer that
1. knows how to tune
2. Does not delete the engine warranty because of aftermarket parts.
I am sure most folks know the warranty deal and having to use "street legal" SE parts to comply but some dealers offer leniency and with the 110 and the other issues that is a good thing.

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #42 on:** December 29, 2009, 07:46:32 AM »

Thanks Zig. Doc

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #43 on:** December 29, 2009, 12:40:04 PM »

Dewey do you recommend TW5-6 over the TW7h

No but I do have a TW7 VS stock

The green and blue are with a pipe change from stock 07 headpipes and fatshotz to a White Bros E. The red is the SE255 (stock) with the stock headpipes and fatshotz. this is a stock motor but expertly tuned, not a dyno jet for you numbers guys but this is corrected to dynojet by their software. I would be looking more at the % of change and where and what occured rather than numbers.

rascal1007 · « **Reply #44 on:** December 30, 2009, 12:43:50 PM »

Quote from: Deweysheads on December 29, 2009, 12:40:04 PM

Dewey do you recommend TW5-6 over the TW7h

No but I do have a TW7 VS stock

The green and blue are with a pipe change from stock 07 headpipes and fatshotz to a White Bros E. The red is the SE255 (stock) with the stock headpipes and fatshotz. this is a stock motor but expertly tuned, not a dyno jet for you numbers guys but this is corrected to dynojet by their software. I would be looking more at the % of change and where and what occured rather than numbers.

Hi Don,

Do you know what has been done to this engine? Example any other mods, headwork, etc.?

The stock SE255 cams make some decent torque.

Vosselman (NL - Europe) · « **Reply #45 on:** December 30, 2009, 12:58:04 PM »

2007 CVO FLHTCUSE2

All runs well tuned. With the swap from SE255 to TW7H we expected a drop in low rpm torque, but expected more above 4000....
Stock heads, stock throttle body, stock headers

Red = Se255 and SuperTrapp Fathshots.
[PE AFR was set too soon and made the afr too rich above 5500. This resulted in the big drop above 5500, the hp curve would have been a little more horizontal without PE AFR.)
Green = Tw7H and SuperTrapp Fathshots (PE AFR turned off, straight 13.0 afr also above 5500)
Blue = Tw7H and WB E 2in1 (PE AFR turned off, straight 13.0 afr also above 5500)

The SE255 is very 'exhaust'-friendly. The TW7H likes a good flowing exhaust.

The engine was taken apart for crank and timken.
Is going together with Deweys heads. CR 10:1
We will probably try the TW7H with a 4 degree gear. Just to increase low rpm torque.

Zinister · « **Reply #46 on:** December 30, 2009, 05:49:12 PM »

OK, I'm convinced. I won't chnge to this cam without doing the headwork and raising the compression. I will ride the bike this year and next with new pipes and a tune. I'll do all the work at once when the warranty is over.

Thanks for your help Dewey!!!!!

Zinister · « **Reply #47 on:** January 01, 2010, 03:15:04 PM »

Dewey,

This is my friends bike that has the woods 7h cam in it. It was even used as advertisment on the Woods cam site.

Vosselman (NL - Europe) · « **Reply #48 on:** January 02, 2010, 04:58:12 AM »

Zinister,

1) The sheet is in uncorrected. Check upper right corner. Uncorrected is STD is NO weather and altitude correction.
All other corrections are there to make it easier to compare between different days: SAE, EEC, DIN, ISA, ISO
Comparing between different dyno's will still be different. But above corrections will help also.
In most cases STD will show higher numbers than the other corrections. Corrections of 5% is common.

2) The run starts at 3000 rpm.

3) Compare the rpm points:
3000 = 95 ftlbs
3500 = 114
4000 = 122
4500 = 120
5000 = 114
5500 = 105

4) VH pipes start producing above 3000 rpm.
The pipes we tested have a better low rpm power.

5) Your friends heads have been reworked which should help higher rpm power.
Increasing compression will move the entire curve up.
We tested with stock heads.

6) The stage 1 curve seems to be a bit on the low side. Would be nice to see BOTH in SAE.

Although there are some differences, they are not that far off with our measurement.

I realy like the Wood cams, but on a 110ci the SE255 still seems to be a nice cam.
If we can get the same torque with a later closing cam that would be nice. Therefor we plan to test that TW7H with a 4 degree gear.

Zinister · « **Reply #49 on:** January 02, 2010, 01:28:24 PM »

I would be very interested in your results!! Please post when you have them completed.

The chart I posted was really to show the compression of the 2 cams on the same dyno. Although I haven't ridden the bike I have been riding with the guy when he's ridden hard, the bike runs very well and pulls away from another buddies Buell pretty easily. The Dyna is was too loud for my taste and he did have some head work done as you say. He doesn't have the high compression pistons but does have roller rockers with the 1.7 ratio instead of stock. Unfortunately he isn't very good at telling me what was done as he lets the dealership tell him what needs to be done and he pays. He's not really into the how and why more the just do it type.

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #50 on:** January 06, 2010, 09:34:37 AM »

Woods wants his sheets posted on his site in uncorrected. I sent a few and he called me to tell me how he wanted them. Being that my elevation will not show what he wants no reason for me to send him sheets to post on his site. We have done very well with many of his cams. Not a bash just poiting out a reason for the status of sheets on woods site. This was middle of last year when we spoke on the sheets.

The main thing that has been covered very well is where do you ride the bike. What rpm range are you spending 75+% of your time in. Set the bike up to make the power there. Fun factor will be off the chart. Good luck.

HOGMIKE · « **Reply #51 on:** January 06, 2010, 10:18:57 AM »

Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on January 06, 2010, 09:34:37 AM

Woods wants his sheets posted on his site in uncorrected. I sent a few and he called me to tell me how he wanted them. Being that my elevation will not show what he wants no reason for me to send him sheets to post on his site. We have done very well with many of his cams. Not a bash just poiting out a reason for the status of sheets on woods site. This was middle of last year when we spoke on the sheets.

The main thing that has been covered very well is where do you ride the bike. What rpm range are you spending 75+% of your time in. Set the bike up to make the power there. Fun factor will be off the chart. Good luck.

IMHO I think a lot of people forget about that, and just chase the numbers!

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #52 on:** January 07, 2010, 10:40:50 AM »

Well it is his site so his rules. For anyone that has a dyno above 4000 feet the uncorrected is not going to be a good comparison. Goes back to the same old deal make sure you are looking at sheets that are as close to what you are doing as you can. As well sheets that are recent due to the decline in fuel quality. What could be done several years ago is not what we are dealing with today.

Ohio phil · « **Reply #53 on:** January 17, 2010, 09:03:10 PM »

Ok here is my 2009 serg, thunderheader and se pro tuner

JDOFLHRIDER · « **Reply #54 on:** January 17, 2010, 09:10:46 PM »

Quote from: Ohio phil on January 17, 2010, 09:03:10 PM

Ok here is my 2009 serg, thunderheader and se pro tuner

no cam or other parts

Ohio phil · « **Reply #55 on:** January 18, 2010, 06:12:13 AM »

JDOFLHRIDER
all stock just thunderheader and se pro tuner, I thank they changed the pro tuner for 2010 and it's a even better unit, I got a se so I would not have to put $6000 in the motor to get good hp and tq.
Thanks Ohio Phil
C-YA

BigLew · « **Reply #56 on:** January 21, 2010, 02:35:54 PM »

WOW that is hard to believe. I can't get close to that in mine!

Mike

trahog · « **Reply #57 on:** January 22, 2010, 08:42:56 AM »

D&D fat cat and tts master tune and dyno time by Heath at h&d cycles lillian alabama

guppytrash · « **Reply #58 on:** January 22, 2010, 11:36:14 AM »

Ohio phil

I would be interested to see your bike on a different dyno. I don't know of a single 110 that has reached those numbers with a pipe and race tuner.
With an exhaust and race tuner only, expect nothing more than high 80's low 90's hp and 100 +/- 10 TQ.
Lots of tricks to make a dyno give the numbers a person wants to see.

HOGMIKE · « **Reply #59 on:** January 22, 2010, 11:53:22 AM »

Quote from: guppytrash on January 22, 2010, 11:36:14 AM

Ohio phil

I would be interested to see your bike on a different dyno. I don't know of a single 110 that has reached those numbers with a pipe and race tuner.
With an exhaust and race tuner only, expect nothing more than high 80's low 90's hp and 100 +/- 10 TQ.
Lots of tricks to make a dyno give the numbers a person wants to see.

M

trahog · « **Reply #60 on:** January 22, 2010, 01:25:40 PM »

Hey gummpy It's called a good tuner and time spent on the dyno,Here is another one of my dyno sheets with stages of bike 1st stock 2nd pipe 3rd tts master tune last tunning by training by Doc tunning by H&D cycles no happy Dyno either

trahog · « **Reply #61 on:** January 22, 2010, 01:30:58 PM »

also this bike is a blast to ride,where I ride in the 3000 -4000 rpm range unless on my v-rod all the way past redline can't blow the damn thing up

guppytrash · « **Reply #62 on:** January 22, 2010, 02:36:48 PM »

Quote from: trahog on January 22, 2010, 01:25:40 PM

Hey gummpy It's called a good tuner and time spent on the dyno,Here is another one of my dyno sheets with stages of bike 1st stock 2nd pipe 3rd tts master tune last tunning by training by Doc tunning by H&D cycles no happy Dyno either

Don't get your panties in a wad. Reread my post...read it careful and slow this time. Pay special attention to the numbers I said most have had as a result of exhaust/tuner mods and then look at your dyno... then look at Ohio phil's numbers then... read your qoute.
My reply was addressed to a dyno over 100hp/120Tq with a tuner and an exhaust. AGAIN READ SLOWLY...you may even notice I made no comment towards your post, my post starts with "Ohio phil". Most people read left to right starting at the top of the page.
Can I make a suggestion...LESS CAFFEINE!!

"last tunning by training by Doc tunning by" WHAT, WHO, SLOW DOWN THERE BRAHOG!

trahog · « **Reply #63 on:** January 22, 2010, 04:39:02 PM »

I was looking at ohio phils dyno and from right to left reads max hp 90 and max tq 110 that is what i commented on was the last few post,no caffeine for me

trahog · « **Reply #64 on:** January 22, 2010, 04:43:09 PM »

also the tunning was done by Doc from Hd MD while Training Heath from H&d cycles mabey if you slow down you can understand my fast talking

HOGMIKE · « **Reply #65 on:** January 22, 2010, 05:25:50 PM »

And, here I thought all "southerners" had a drawl, and talked slowly!!

guppytrash · « **Reply #66 on:** January 22, 2010, 06:34:05 PM »

Quote from: trahog on January 22, 2010, 04:43:09 PM

also the tunning was done by Doc from Hd MD while Training Heath from H&d cycles mabey if you slow down you can understand my fast talking

"Maaaaabey"

its just me but the graph on Ohio phil's dyno looks like the TQ line sits on 120 and the HP at 100. To get it running good you need to get a good "tunning".

It must be my third grade reedun ability.

Ohio phil · « **Reply #67 on:** January 22, 2010, 07:14:02 PM »

Hay Guppy
Where do u live ? I had a good idea the # would be 100 & 110 and got 99.7 & 118, I would say lets roll them out that would be a good dyno !!!!!

guppytrash · « **Reply #68 on:** January 22, 2010, 10:42:24 PM »

I live in Chicago and would love to "roll them out" but it would not be much of a race. Mine is not nearly as powerful as yours.

trahog · « **Reply #69 on:** January 23, 2010, 08:54:32 AM »

Hey Hog Mike, I'm a transplant from Iowa ,so I can ride year round.Lol and looks to me in the dyno the #'s show 90hp and 110tq looks like the graph is misleading.I'll roll mine out the dyno can't match the rider when it comes to the track,or red light to red light lmao

HOGMIKE · « **Reply #70 on:** January 23, 2010, 10:36:22 AM »

Quote from: trahog on January 23, 2010, 08:54:32 AM

Hey Hog Mike, I'm a transplant from Iowa ,so I can ride year round.Lol and looks to me in the dyno the #'s show 90hp and 110tq looks like the graph is misleading.I'll roll mine out the dyno can't match the rider when it comes to the track,or red light to red light lmao

I learned the hard way years ago that chasing numbers was NOT my riding style.
I have had to "de-tune" some of my bikes over the years just to get it to pull the way I wanted to suit ME!
My '09 and '10 were easier to do this by playing with the ECM rather than swapping out parts.

Do I get 90/100??? No, but, the bikes are way fun to ride!
JMHO, of course!

guppytrash · « **Reply #71 on:** January 23, 2010, 12:18:28 PM »

Quote from: HOGMIKE on January 23, 2010, 10:36:22 AM

I learned the hard way years ago that chasing numbers was NOT my riding style.
I have had to "de-tune" some of my bikes over the years just to get it to pull the way I wanted to suit ME!
My '09 and '10 were easier to do this by playing with the ECM rather than swapping out parts.

Do I get 90/100??? No, but, the bikes are way fun to ride!
JMHO, of course!

[/quote

Well said!

Ohio phil · « **Reply #72 on:** January 23, 2010, 04:55:54 PM »

u got Mike thats y i left this one alone pipe and a tune, im old and been riding and building for many years i get to put about 10,000 miles a year on. That said put on a good pipe like the thunderheader and tune a 110 they run good to about 4500 rpm's with the 6 speed it still pulls good at 100 mph. and guppy i just thought u was trying to b a smart a
C-YA Ohio Phil

guppytrash · « **Reply #73 on:** January 23, 2010, 09:03:41 PM »

Ohio phil

You know, I have never tried a thunderheader exhaust but I have heard time and time again they are one of the best performance pipes you can put on an HD. So I must concede that after looking at Fullsac numbers of 96/114 (stage 1) it is entirely possible you are pulling your numbers. Just saying as you well know if you have been around, there are lots of tricks to make numbers on a dyno.
I have done the Fullsac stage 1 mods on my bike with the exception of Steve's maps. My bike does not make 96/114. I do believe those numbers are obtainable if I had a better tuner. I may ditch my SERT for a Mastertune just so I can use the Fulsac maps.
IMHOP there are a lot more bad tuners than good ones.
If anybody knows of a dyno Jedi master in Chicago please let me know.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #74 on:** January 26, 2010, 02:33:08 PM »

Brian
Valley Racing
259 West Delite Inn Road
Beecher, IL 60401
(708) 946-1440

bigmegina · « **Reply #75 on:** January 28, 2010, 12:45:29 AM »

after i put a vance & hines 2 into 1 pro pipe on my 2000 road glide i did not need a dyno to tell the performance difference compared to my slipons.the thunderheader and pro pipe were very close in hp gain but i liked the looks of the pro pipe better.i did not like the way the thunderheader belched black exhaust on the bags.the only reason i did not put 1 on my 09 serg is the pipe is now to loud for me.guess i am getting old.if you want real performance pro pipe is the way to go.

FLTRI · « **Reply #76 on:** February 02, 2010, 11:49:00 AM »

Quote from: bigmegina on January 28, 2010, 12:45:29 AM

...... did not like the way the thunderheader belched black exhaust on the bags.

Man that sounds rich!!! A properly tuned bike with a T/H would not belch black exhaust.

Quote

if you want real performance pro pipe is the way to go.

And there are several others like the D&D Fatcat, and especially the Supertrapp Supermeg which provides great performance and adjustable sound volume.
Bob

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #77 on:** February 05, 2010, 07:37:37 AM »

I agree.
Scott

StreetDog · « **Reply #78 on:** February 07, 2010, 05:38:55 PM »

Quote from: Zinister on October 28, 2009, 08:39:33 PM

I think I'mvery limited on the pipes. I can't find many for an '09 Springer. I really don't like the looks of the 2-1 pipes so I might suffer a little for looks.

Don't most people see low 90's HP withjust a tune and V&H 2-2? I wasn't looking for much more from the cam. Is it the TQ that will suffer the most from these pipes?

Zinister I put the Big Radius pipes and the SERT on my 05' SE FatBoy with the 103ci and it dynoed at 89.0hp and 93.6 tq. I was thinking it had more than that stock! So those pipes may look cool but they sure kill the power! And your hearing too, sound bounces off the pavement and back into your ears.

Author Topic: Goal 95-100 HP & 115-120 TQ (Read 23941 times)