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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Jbbrown73 on July 26, 2020, 09:44:21 PM
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The 110 has given it up after a measly 32k. Since it's got to come apart I want it put back together in a configuration that I don't want to have to worry about for about 60,000 miles at least. Can I get some recommendations on a good build that's reliable and makes good power and torque. I am thinking 117 build. What's opinions on gear drive cams, head work, etc...? The majority of the miles are highway at 80+. I also pull a trailer some times, so torque is important. I am rarely over 4k RPM so I don't need horsepower at super high rpm. It's a Road Glide Ultra so it's a heavy bike. It's a wet head so I know that creates some limitations.
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I went with screamin eagle 117 kit with the redshift 587. Made sure the foundation was s&s flywheel. Lots of torque.
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Out of curiosity, which is the cause of the failure the lifter or cam?
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Haven't taken apart yet. It's above my abilities, so it will be going to S&S Speed Shop in metro East STL for the work. It's still running, just making a hell of a racket, so I hope it's not come completely apart and sent metal through the entire engine.
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Out of curiosity, which is the cause of the failure the lifter or cam?
Generally the roller of the lifter fails.
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My answer will be contrary to most but based on personal experience. You pull a trailer that changes things, long life will come from a valve train with relieved pressure/ loads, lower heat (compression & cylinder pressure down), and excellent ring seal. What does it take to go there? A 113 from stock cylinders bored +.060. A cam with mild ramps and added exhaust duration. If 117 is on the plate, ok this is a full engine job, bored cases not the drop-in kits. Remember you said 60k reliable miles, that is where I am going. Compression on the conservative side. Heads need new guides and a good valve job plus dual springs that are lighter than stock. High quality lifters. Crank needs to be reworked at minimum, an S&S crank, better. Use head fans to cool the engine. Add a higher capacity clutch. Use the latest rev compensator. Have a proper tune done. Consider a smaller front pulley to lower gearing.
The whole gamut of things the internet says that are needed, many are not and just oem parts will be fine. Lifters are a maintenance item still, 30k miles and gives a look at the cam chest then.
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I hate to say but we've all been warned. I just did a complete build while I was thinking about lifters. Crank too had to be replaced. Good luck however you decide to go. Stuart.
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If one wanted to replace the lifters before a failure occurred what’s a good lifter to use with the stock cam and pushrods?
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S&S which are basically the (now superseded) OE "B" lifters.
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I have quality slow bleed lifters made in America, $130 shipped
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HD Street Performance, do you consider your replacement lifter the same quality as S&S? Who manufactures them?
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The quality is equal. I would prefer not to reveal the source, they are made for us and I buy them manufacturer direct.
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The quality is equal. I would prefer not to reveal the source, they are made for us and I buy them manufacturer direct.
So what’s the best way to order the lifters from you? How much do they cost? Thanks
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I will pm you
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I have quality slow bleed lifters made in America, $130 shipped
Do your lifters have an oil hole that feeds the roller?
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No sorry they do not. That said I am not aware of any roller failures. These have been offered since 2001 by other vendors
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No sorry they do not. That said I am not aware of any roller failures. These have been offered since 2001 by other vendors
Is it the roller that fails on the stock 110 lifter or the roller bearing?
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It can be either or both. The heat treat of the roller along with the harmonics in the valve train in the 2000-2700 rpm range are close to the root causes in my opinion.
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(https://media4.giphy.com/media/12aW6JtfvUdcdO/giphy.gif)
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Has anyone seen a vendor with Hylift Johnson B2313SE lifters in stock?
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Has anyone seen a vendor with Hylift Johnson B2313SE lifters in stock?
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WFO Larry
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WFO Larry
Thanks
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Great news......... the lifter did not come apart, just made one hell of a noise. So no metal in engine, no need for new cams, and I only have to spend money on upgrades not damage. Looking forward to the magic that Jason at C&S does with the engine.
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Has anyone seen a vendor with Hylift Johnson B2313SE lifters in stock?
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I got mine here ...... https://www.automotivemachine.com/
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The blue beast lives again!!! I want to thank Jason Clasquin at C&S Speed in metro east St. Louis for doing such a great job on the Road Glide. I asked him to build me a reliable engine that will take me around the country in style. It's supposed to be decent this week, low 50's one day so I hope to get out and take a little test ride.
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Ok Pal
You know the rules....Its downright uncivilized to post a dyno chart without detailing the specs of the build.
Whatinall did ya do to it?
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Ok Pal
You know the rules....Its downright uncivilized to post a dyno chart without detailing the specs of the build.
Whatinall did ya do to it?
It got some new up and down thingies and a go around part.
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It got some new up and down thingies and a go around part.
Very insightful, glad you cleared that up Don
PS
I thought them Up and Down Thingies were actually thingamabobs?
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Very insightful, glad you cleared that up Don
PS
I thought them Up and Down Thingies were actually thingamabobs?
If the up and down thingies and thingamabobs would high dome up and down things be thingamaboobs?
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I thought thingamaboobs were on a 92 year old stripper?
Or is that thingamamawboobs?
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I thought thingamaboobs were on a 92 year old stripper?
Or is that thingamamawboobs?
Yes! To all of it.....
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:oops: Truth! I violated the cardinal rule of thingamabob up and down thingies. :drummer: So, had a failed lifter and we all know the driver of the lifter failures are due to stiff springs in the 110's. So, head work was inevitable. He took it apart, and the lifter had not come apart so all was good in the world, no engine damage. So heads went out and got ported/polished with new valves, guides and springs. Jugs were punched out .010 so it's now roughly a 111-112. New pistons of course plus new push rods and lifters. I already had a Kury 24D cam that was installed about 6 months after I bought the bike. It was in perfect shape and worked with the goal of the build so it got new bearings and left it in place. Also put in a new high volume oil pump since it was apart. Crank runout was very good so didn't do any bottom end work. Went with a D&D fatcat exhaust and the flow numbers of the heads made it necessary to go to a 58mm throttle body. It has a nice somewhat angry exhaust note and little to no valve train noise so I believe the goal was met. It's got 32k on it, so if I can make 100k without having to get back in it I'll be very happy. :bananarock:
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Thanks for the update Pal
I was starting to think Me and Twolane were gonna have be censored and end up in CVO jail if we went much farther.
I'm glad it didn't wipe out the cam cause them 24Ds is getting hard to find, like bigfoot riding a unicorn.
I bet you will be very pleased with the performance once you get a chance to air it out.
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I was starting to think Me and Twolane were gonna have be censored and end up in CVO jail if we went much farther.
Thingamaboobetyboobetyboobety up and down in dual retentive wobbling synchronicity with a (size) 24D. (that's a big'un)
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That's what she said.
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I am shipping lifters daily, the Morels work quite well.
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That’s a very nice dyno sheet Jrbrown, and happy it all worked out for you. 100 lb/tq Fromm 2,000 rpm is a beautiful thing...👍👍. Ride safe and enjoy.
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I think its time now to do a little bit of maintenance on my King.
I now have about 23000 mi on my King (and 15000 mi with the 117 cui conversion).
Is it time to do proactive replacement of the lifters / tappets?
What do you think of them: JIMs POWERGLIDE™ steady roll tappets for 99- Twin Cam. They have brass liners instead of needle bearings?
Or is it better to use others tappets?
Thank you for your reply and your opinions.
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Run away from the Jim’s. They have bad bleed down.
New S&S, Johnson High Lift
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Run away from the Jim’s. They have bad bleed down.
New S&S, Johnson High Lift
Thanks for your response 8)