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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra Classic® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: Lars on November 02, 2019, 05:12:00 PM
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Went riding with buddy's yesterday on my 2013 SEUC that has 59K miles on it. I have the tour pack removed and wiring curled up under the seat.
It was running great when I noticed the volt meter only showing 6 volts +/- and the battery light came on. The voltage gradually went back to 14 volts and battery light went out. It did this several times before I got back home. It never did make any unusual noises and seemed to run just fine.
I removed the seat and checked to see if there were any signs of hot wires or any burnt wires. None were evident. The battery connections were tight and all seemed well. The only thing I noticed was the cord for the battery tender didn't have the cap in place and the bare lead was touching the exhaust pipe but I don't think that should have had anything to do with the problem, should it?? Any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Lars
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If properly wired the exposed point on a battery tender plug is negative so should not affect anything if it touches a metal surface. What you're describing is probably regulator. Diagnosis for anything like this is always the same though. Hook a voltmeter the battery to see what is actually being produced and also there by check the stock gauge. Also check for loose battery cable connections.
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Went riding with buddy's yesterday on my 2013 SEUC that has 59K miles on it. I have the tour pack removed and wiring curled up under the seat.
It was running great when I noticed the volt meter only showing 6 volts +/- and the battery light came on. The voltage gradually went back to 14 volts and battery light went out. It did this several times before I got back home. It never did make any unusual noises and seemed to run just fine.
I removed the seat and checked to see if there were any signs of hot wires or any burnt wires. None were evident. The battery connections were tight and all seemed well. The only thing I noticed was the cord for the battery tender didn't have the cap in place and the bare lead was touching the exhaust pipe but I don't think that should have had anything to do with the problem, should it?? Any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Lars
The exposed male terminal at the connector on the bike half of the tender harness is connected to the ground terminal on the battery, so it will not cause a short if it contacts a grounded part. So no, that wouldn't have caused your battery voltage warning light and gauge. If the battery cables are clean and tight at the battery terminals, the next thing you should check is the ground wire for the voltage regulator. It attaches to a bolt for the rear exhaust system bracket, located at the right side cover of the transmission. Verify with a meter that you have no voltage drop between the negative battery terminal and the voltage regulator ground wire, and make sure connection of the ground wire is clean and tight to the exhaust bracket bolt. If everything up to that point checks good, there's a good chance you have a failing voltage regulator.
Jerry
I must type too slow, Twolane beat me to the punch again. ;D
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I must type too slow, Twolane beat me to the punch again. ;D
Jerry I think that just means he's good to go when his other bike has a similar problem someday 👍
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I'll do the checks that you all suggest and see what I find.
Twolane is probably right about the good to go part.
I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks.
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I recently replaced the voltage regulator on my bike. In my case the bike would discharge intermittently. I would be cruising along and then suddenly battery light would come on and volt gauge would read around 7. Before I could slow down and pull over it would return to normal. This happened about 4 times over an 8 month period. It never lasted more than a minute when it acted up before it would return to normal. When I pulled the regulator it had obvious signs of heat build up as the back side of it (the rubbery side) had an area that was expanded and cracked. Replaced it with a new one, no issues since.
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Had the same issue with mine as jachd17 described and as you've described Voltage drops of then returning after a while. I thought I'd resolved the problem only for it to return again did wire checks and a number of other checks including removing the Voltage Rectifier and diode testing all checks passed but the issue would return.
Finally I replaced the Regulator Rectifier it's been nearly 3 years now with no more issues.
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I’ve been away from the site for a while, but thought I had better do the follow-up to my post.
After doing the checks that you all recommended, I found that the regulator was bad.
Replaced the regulator and all is good.
It turns out that the ground cable at the battery wasn’t torqued to the correct inch pounds either. That may have been the original cause of the problem to begin with.
Thanks for all of the knowledgeable recommendations.
Lars.
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It's not unusual. I have had three big twins. An 1985 FLT, a 2004 FLHTCI and the 2008 FLHTCUSE3. I have had to replace voltage regulators in all of them. Some more than once. Still better than dealing with a bad stator. (Did that on the 85)