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[ak]

not taking sides here. Us left coast  cvo rides perfer are freedoms , and the east coast guys play with there zippers.-   AK

[Twolanerider]

not taking sides here. Us left coast  cvo rides perfer are freedoms , and the east coast guys play with there zippers.-   AK

That proximity really has often seemed to be a determining factor Andy.  With the cam options it's fortunate for everyone that both options seem to be good ones.  In my own case the final work was actually based on a somewhat different criterion.  I knew I wanted to get the autotuning Thundermax package that Zippers offered.  That being so then just opted to get it all at the same place  . 

[SBB]

Don

 
How is the "Red bike".
Because you seem so happy with the Auto-tune I talked w/ Danny at Myrtle Beach about putting it on the Frontier.
Just hit 5K on the motor this weekend and she's running great.
Averaging 38 to 39 mpg.

Just hard to spend money on something when it feels so good!
But I am leaning in the Auto Tune direction.

How many miles on the "Red bike" now?
Are you still happy with it?



And,
One final question,
Do you know what a small block 402 double hump motor is?

 

[Twolanerider]

Don

 
How is the "Red bike".
Because you seem so happy with the Auto-tune I talked w/ Danny at Myrtle Beach about putting it on the Frontier.
Just hit 5K on the motor this weekend and she's running great.
Averaging 38 to 39 mpg.

Just hard to spend money on something when it feels so good!
But I am leaning in the Auto Tune direction.

How many miles on the "Red bike" now?
Are you still happy with it?



And,
One final question,
Do you know what a small block 402 double hump motor is?

 

Chip,

This is a fuel injected small block 402 with "double hump" heads.  It's one I built for a project a couple years ago.

[SBB]

Cool beans there Don!

Glad to know it's still cooking fine!
That's the great thing about this site.
So many options.
And as picky as you are, your opinion is important!



On the dbl hump,
Have one sitting in the garage.
Right next to the Powerglide and the upswept headers.
Kinda strange all this Chevy stuff sitting in the garage in front of the Mustang!
Great picture of yours.
Will post one of mine once it's installed.
Should be by the end of next week!

 
As you know, next to horsepower, a man can never have too many toys!

[SBB]

And not to get picky but,
My block is orange, yours is red.
Which one is factory?
I like the red better!

[Twolanerider]

And not to get picky but,
My block is orange, yours is red.
Which one is factory?
I like the red better!

Might just be the flash Chip.  It was painted with a VHT self etch primer, VHT Chevy Orange and finished with a couple coats of Nyalic.  It's what I do on just about any engine that isn't bound for a project such that the engine needs to be painted by the same people painting the car.

[SBB]

Might just be the flash Chip.  It was painted with a VHT self etch primer, VHT Chevy Orange and finished with a couple coats of Nyalic.  It's what I do on just about any engine that isn't bound for a project such that the engine needs to be painted by the same people painting the car.

I went back and looked again.
Looks red.
But your post makes me feel better that it's orange.
But I am partial to the red!

S
  /
    B

Sorry to get off topic but I figured if anybody would know what a dbl hump motor was, you would!

[Twolanerider]

I went back and looked again.
Looks red.
But your post makes me feel better that it's orange.
But I am partial to the red!

S
  /
    B

Sorry to get off topic but I figured if anybody would know what a dbl hump motor was, you would!

Chip, in the small block chevy world when someone says "double hump" they are referring to some old cylinder heads from the 60s and early 70s.  They were very popular solely because they accepted what was then the largest intake valves Chevy used (2.02" and 1.94").  Chevy heads had different casting identifiers on their ends.  These larger heads had two rounded humps, thus "double hump" heads. 

There have been some aftermarket products using casting symbols close to those (for marketing purposes).  And quite frankly a lot of heads are better than the old double humps.  The true double hump heads don't even have bolt holes in the ends of the heads for accessory or bracketry mounting.  So bracketry is sometimes harder to come by if one is looking for a nostalgic look.  If someone is building a small block and part of it's goal is any kind of nostalgic look though those are the castings people still look for.

A lot of kids playing with small blocks now and not really being familiar with the old stuff often confuse "double hump" as a description for the casting marks on the old heads and "double pumper" as a description for the old Holley carbs.  It's got "double" and it's got some kind of "ump" and that sounds close enough to be right to a kid that's never driven anything other than a tuner rice car.

Here's the mark on the ends of the heads that makes them an official "double hump":

[Twolanerider]

I went back and looked again.
Looks red.
But your post makes me feel better that it's orange.
But I am partial to the red!

S
  /
    B

Sorry to get off topic but I figured if anybody would know what a dbl hump motor was, you would!

Chevy was always either Chevy orange or the corporate GM blue after the early to mid 80s.  But with different rattle cans Chevy orange can vary some  .

That motor was oranger than it looked in that photo.  But not much.  Chevy orange even changed from Chevy a little bit over the years.  But it was never really a red color.  Painting a small block Chevy some old Ford red color would certainly invite deep chasms opening in the earth and the escape of demons from hell (or something like that)....

By the way, which of the several ways to get to 402 on a small block was yours done?

[HWYMAN1]

Don,
As I have put on another thread, I am considering some top end work. You mentioned that you did NOT want compression release. I understand what they do, but not sure of pro and cons of this item. Not really interested in "super" compression based engine, would like to stay at around 10 but I am intersted in your opinion on "to release or not to release" that is the question? thanks john

[Hoist!]

Don,
As I have put on another thread, I am considering some top end work. You mentioned that you did NOT want compression release. I understand what they do, but not sure of pro and cons of this item. Not really interested in "super" compression based engine, would like to stay at around 10 but I am intersted in your opinion on "to release or not to release" that is the question? thanks john

John, you defintely don't need compression releases for 10:1! I'd try and keep it just below 10:1. It's easier on detonation issues with some of the gas we see today. Compression will add heat also, which we don't need any more of. Use the 1.4KW starter and it'll be plenty strong to start your motor and not tax the starter. We've been running 10:1's in many engines over the years. All with standard HD starters and no compression releases. If you set the heads up for manual releases, you can always add them later if you feel you want a little more starting help. Or install them, and use them as you need to. Unlike the new 110's where we don't have the choice to remove them, because they're electronically tied into the ECM!

Hoist!

[Twolanerider]

Don,
As I have put on another thread, I am considering some top end work. You mentioned that you did NOT want compression release. I understand what they do, but not sure of pro and cons of this item. Not really interested in "super" compression based engine, would like to stay at around 10 but I am intersted in your opinion on "to release or not to release" that is the question? thanks john

John, my thinking involved a few things.  First is that generally I just didn't want to screw with them (compression releases).

Building an engine big enough to need them is a temptation to build an engine bigger than I need or want and an engine big enough to commonly have other reliability questions down the road.

I don't want to regularly burn my damn fingers.

I wanted to use the cylinder head bridges to fill that space around the plugs.  At least not without further machining of the bridges you can't do that with compression releases.

I didn't want to forget to use the damn thing sometimes.

I didn't need nor want a motor that required them.

I wanted simple, reliable, easy, efficient maximization of the basic platform I had.  That was the guidance I gave Zippers (repeatedly).  That could be done without the need for compression releases.

That there were other issues with the work is separate and apart from the original intent.  Too many sets of compression releases are installed for show purposes anyway.  I just didn't want to screw with them.

[Talon]

I agree with you 2LR, I haven't done much yet, but I want  bike that will be dependable, won't get to hot in the summer, and I can get on and just ride all day. Not to say that some of the higher HP big motors aren't reliable, but the more you push them the better the chance of having problems. Just depends what your looking.

[Twolanerider]

I agree with you 2LR, I haven't done much yet, but I want  bike that will be dependable, won't get to hot in the summer, and I can get on and just ride all day. Not to say that some of the higher HP big motors aren't reliable, but the more you push them the better the chance of having problems. Just depends what your looking.

Exactly Talon.  That was my goal as well.