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[grc]

I'm starting to think that the MoCo has decided to save a little cash by purchasing recycled pop bottles and then melt them down for tensioner shoes.

[syclone]

I thought of that...but I have no experience with the other "auto" types so i have nothing to compare tension to. The shoe on it is probably 30 % longer than the stock shoe and nearly fills the entire distance between the sprocket and the basket....so the chain is riding a longer distance on shoe material and is a hell of a lot tighter.  i have not had the opportunity to listen to a new Dyna to see if there is any noise.  It might work ok on a non-bagger application cause the center to center distance between the sprocket and clutch basket is greater.

[grc]

I am using the Hayden M6 (no extra noise) for about 9 months now however I use alot more preload than what the manufacturer suggests.

[Twolanerider]

O'Fender,

I had a little email conversation with Hayden, since the instructions said to set the play at 5/8" for a regular Big Twin, but to set it at 1/2" for a stroker.

[grc]

Why?

If it's a piece I had limited or no experience with and I had specific guidance from a manufacturer that had significant experience I think I'd take their advice

[Twolanerider]

TwoLane,

I guess because I would prefer a little slack versus the possibility of trashing a bearing.

[STICKMAN]

So  :othe instructions call for 1 inch of free play between the chain and the tensioner ( before releasing spring tension) Should I go with that  to avoid a potention bearing problem?

[TB]

I put in a Hayden M6 at the 500 mile mark with the freeplay just as Jerry mentioned.  Halfway between the regular 88" and the recommendation for a "stroker".  Checked it at the 10K mile mark with no appreciable change.  I will be checking it again this fall at the 20K mark, but I have had several M6's and my experience is that they require absolutely no attention whatsoever.  

Wish I could find a woman like that!!!! [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

[syclone]

So

[the O`Fender]

I tried it at 1" and 1 1/8th" and at 1 3/16ths..all cold measurements...before releasing the retaining tab..  it howled/whined at every setting.

And this is exactly why the manufacturers ratings don't work (it will be noisey) so increase the preload. That slack will increase with heat. I don't know how to measure the slack I just know when I am assembling it where it needs to be, for it to be quiet and thats about 1/2" of travel between the shoe and the spacers!!! compress the spring after you tighten the adjuster down (I use channel locks) and the chain should be at the perfect setting otherwise it's noisey. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[RedFXR2]

All this talk about too much or too little spring tension makes a pretty good argument for the hydraulic unit, the HB125.  That unit uses a small hydraulic cylinder, open at the bottom, similar to a hydraulic lifter, to dampen compression and a return spring to do the actual pushing up against the chain.  The spring isn't all that powerful, acting only to keep the shoe pressed against the chain.  The cylinder allows movement, it just dampens it and then returns to the preload, also a dampened movement.

When I installed mine, I was concerned about a number of things--too tight being the number one.  But I followed the instructions, and there it's been for about two years now.  I never had any noise at all, although the manufacturer mentioned that there might be a slight whine for the first couple hundred miles or so.  Shifting is definitely crisper and neutral is a snap.

Anyway, if you haven't bought the M6, you might consider the HB125.

[syclone]

And this is exactly why the manufacturers ratings don't work (it will be noisey) so increase the preload. That slack will increase with heat. I don't know how to measure the slack I just know when I am assembling it where it needs to be, for it to be quiet and thats about 1/2" of travel between the shoe and the spacers!!! compress the spring after you tighten the adjuster down (I use channel locks) and the chain should be at the perfect setting otherwise it's noisey. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

I was talking about the new H-D auto tensioner not an m6.....and by the way..the chain will run tighter (less slack) when hot....I'm sure you ment "decrease" with heat.

[grc]

I was talking about the new H-D auto tensioner not an m6.....and by the way..[highlight]the chain will run tighter (less slack) when hot[/highlight]....I'm sure you ment "decrease" with heat.

Absolutely correct.

[STICKMAN]

O'FENDER,
Can you run that by me again. I'm about to put this thing in. What spacers are you refering to?. The intructions reference the freeplay in the top of the chain where you would take the measurement for the stock adjuster. Are you taking it down at the shoe? Also do you think 1/2 is good for my 95 or should I go to 3/4?

[grc]

Stickman,

O'Fender was referring to the M6, not the H-D part.  The M6 has shims (spacers) that you place under the spring to set the initial preload, and you measure between the top of the shims and the bottom of the shoe.  I'm not familiar with the H-D part, so I can only suggest to follow the instructions that come with it precisely.

Jerry