Topic: Want to see what crap your breather dumps into your intake? (Read 23011 times)

r0de_runr · « **on:** October 10, 2015, 05:48:09 PM »

2012 CVO SG, Liqui-Moly 10W60 oil with about 400 miles on it; 25000 miles on bike, just had a valve job, new seals, guides, springs. 57H cam. Makes good power and shows no measurable oil consumption.

I put on a clean and dry catch can and rode 250 miles in 70 degree weather, not riding hard at all, got 43mpg. This video shows what came out, at least an ounce of goo.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fgaqbb9e2mg9p0p/20151010_162643.mp4?dl=0

Here is what the replacement can looks like mounted. Was going to clean/replace at each oil change, but I better do it every few tanks of gas.

OBB · « **Reply #1 on:** October 10, 2015, 08:03:03 PM »

That's nasty.

How did you do a bypass?

And last but not least,,,,,, Where can I find a 2102 model? I didn't think they'd be making them for another 86 years

r0de_runr · « **Reply #2 on:** October 10, 2015, 09:50:05 PM »

Fixed the year, lol. 2012.

Here is how I did my cvo intake.

r0de_runr · « **Reply #3 on:** October 10, 2015, 09:51:17 PM »

And my 103 with Arlen Ness Big Sucker.

r0de_runr · « **Reply #4 on:** October 10, 2015, 09:51:54 PM »

underneath

SneakyPete · « **Reply #5 on:** October 10, 2015, 10:05:04 PM »

If you route that hose up and under the gas tank, down the backbone and into the battery compartment and parallel to the gas overflow hose, you can eliminate the catch can altogether. I've done this with my last two bikes, maintenance free! Because you are routing the oil up, most of the oil drains back into the heads.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2015, 10:35:05 PM »

A photo...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r2xj17v070yh4tq/2015-09-22%2005.10.29.jpg?dl=0

SneakyPete · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2015, 10:39:24 PM »

Some more...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/29hd20i5h0ol628/2015-09-22%2005.11.45.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qmx02js9k8216tl/2015-09-22%2005.11.36.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0q1id1a08qdt30k/2015-09-22%2005.11.55.jpg?dl=0

SneakyPete · « **Reply #8 on:** October 10, 2015, 10:43:54 PM »

Don't forget to plug the original vents in the backing plate. Drilled and tapped for 1/4 x 20 Allen head set screws secured with Loctite...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8w796j8aacxajr/2015-09-22%2005.14.09.jpg?dl=0

r0de_runr · « **Reply #9 on:** October 11, 2015, 12:00:26 AM »

I'd rather not have that goo running back into my motor. Lots of water in it, and I'm sure it's pH is probably acidic.

ptnlinda · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2015, 04:41:22 AM »

Great Information thanks. Something I will consider doing.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #11 on:** October 11, 2015, 08:55:27 AM »

Quote from: r0de_runr on October 11, 2015, 12:00:26 AM

I'd rather not have that goo running back into my motor. Lots of water in it, and I'm sure it's pH is probably acidic.

No goo here, only oil

OBB · « **Reply #12 on:** October 11, 2015, 08:58:56 AM »

Quote from: pete_4854 on October 11, 2015, 08:55:27 AM

No goo here, only oil

Pete. Please explain how that work. I'm not following and am interested in both setups.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #13 on:** October 11, 2015, 01:18:04 PM »

Quote from: OBB on October 11, 2015, 08:58:56 AM

Pete. Please explain how that work. I'm not following and am interested in both setups.

Check out the Kuryakyn website and search "bluegrass breather kit". I used that system on my SEEG and have applied the same principle on my SERG using pipe fittings instead of the banjo fittings. I had to do that because you can't use their banjo fittings with the stock ventilator air cleaner.

Running the breather hoses down means gravity works against you versus for you so you discharge more oil to ground or into a catch can. No way to hide the hose or the catch can so not as visually pleasing. You can't see the bluegrass set up nor what I have done unless I point it out to you.

CVODON · « **Reply #14 on:** October 11, 2015, 01:37:56 PM »

After 50 years of fooling with motors, I see no need for this diverting the overflow waste. Let it burn, combustion temp is so high these days that immediately the fumes are turned into exhaust waste go away and they are almost fully fumes at this stage, turn to liquid as they cool and accumulate in hose or can. If really worried about it, use a add-on bung welded into high vacuum area of exhaust and let the exhaust suck it out like we did our race cars 40 years ago before we found vacuum pumps. But nothing I want to deal with in a can hung under a vehicle. JMHO.

VANAMAL · « **Reply #15 on:** October 17, 2015, 01:27:33 AM »

I cleaned my catch can after about 4000 miles and it had two teaspoons of oily water and a teaspoon of oil. Not much at all

SneakyPete · « **Reply #16 on:** October 17, 2015, 07:27:05 AM »

In the next week or so I'll post detail photos on how to install the kuryakyn bluegrass breather kit on my SERG for those that might be interested.

TN · « **Reply #17 on:** October 17, 2015, 07:37:53 AM »

I like the setup Pete, makes perfect sense for several reasons.

TN

SneakyPete · « **Reply #18 on:** October 17, 2015, 07:43:48 AM »

Quote from: TN on October 17, 2015, 07:37:53 AM

I like the setup Pete, makes perfect sense for several reasons.

TN

Yep, worked like a charm on my SEEG. No ugly hoses hanging down your engine, catch cans or maintenance required. Set it and forget it.

North Star · « **Reply #19 on:** October 17, 2015, 12:59:45 PM »

Quote from: pete_4854 on October 17, 2015, 07:27:05 AM

In the next week or so I'll post detail photos on how to install the kuryakyn bluegrass breather kit on my SERG for those that might be interested.

How come on the Kury website it says it is not for Touring models?

'99-'06 Twin Cam with Stock & Most Carbs, ’01-’15 Twin Cam with Delphi EFI (except ’08-’15 Touring/Trike & '11-'12 FLSTSE, '13-'14 FXSBSE & '14-'15 FLSTNSE)

naitram · « **Reply #20 on:** October 17, 2015, 01:07:36 PM »

Quote from: CVODON on October 11, 2015, 01:37:56 PM

After 50 years of fooling with motors, I see no need for this diverting the overflow waste. Let it burn, combustion temp is so high these days that immediately the fumes are turned into exhaust waste go away and they are almost fully fumes at this stage, turn to liquid as they cool and accumulate in hose or can. If really worried about it, use a add-on bung welded into high vacuum area of exhaust and let the exhaust suck it out like we did our race cars 40 years ago before we found vacuum pumps. But nothing I want to deal with in a can hung under a vehicle. JMHO.

thats fine if it does burn off, but on my 02 SERK it would slowly saturate the AC and once that was full it would drip out

2BAGGR · « **Reply #21 on:** October 17, 2015, 02:04:04 PM »

Interesting....

TN · « **Reply #22 on:** October 17, 2015, 04:38:43 PM »

these screen shots are from a vendor selling breather kits and such, YMMV

grc · « **Reply #23 on:** October 17, 2015, 07:07:40 PM »

Cars have been required to vent the crankcase back to the intake for over 40+ years now, and we don't see car engines dropping like flies by the side of the road from that recirculated stuff. On top of that, many cars had/have recirculated exhaust gases also dumped back into the engine to help reduce NOx. And yet todays car engines have the highest reliability and length of service in the history of the product. How can that possibly be? And I don't see ads for products to bypass the system and vent the crankcase to atmosphere for cars either.

Jerry

ptnlinda · « **Reply #24 on:** October 17, 2015, 08:01:14 PM »

Quote from: pete_4854 on October 17, 2015, 07:27:05 AM

In the next week or so I'll post detail photos on how to install the kuryakyn bluegrass breather kit on my SERG for those that might be interested.

Pete I will be very interested in seeing your instal. Thanks in advance.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #25 on:** October 17, 2015, 08:49:28 PM »

Quote from: grc on October 17, 2015, 07:07:40 PM

Cars have been required to vent the crankcase back to the intake for over 40+ years now, and we don't see car engines dropping like flies by the side of the road from that recirculated stuff. On top of that, many cars had/have recirculated exhaust gases also dumped back into the engine to help reduce NOx. And yet todays car engines have the highest reliability and length of service in the history of the product. How can that possibly be? And I don't see ads for products to bypass the system and vent the crankcase to atmosphere for cars either.

Jerry

I agree, but I think the difference is how the system is designed for a car versus a twin cam Harley. Oil vapor is one thing, pure oil is another and that is what comes out of the twin cam head and directly into your intake.

robertg · « **Reply #26 on:** October 17, 2015, 08:54:28 PM »

This is how I vented my Heavy Breather.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #27 on:** October 17, 2015, 08:54:45 PM »

Quote from: North Star on October 17, 2015, 12:59:45 PM

How come on the Kury website it says it is not for Touring models?

'99-'06 Twin Cam with Stock & Most Carbs, ’01-’15 Twin Cam with Delphi EFI (except ’08-’15 Touring/Trike & '11-'12 FLSTSE, '13-'14 FXSBSE & '14-'15 FLSTNSE)

I believe this has to do with what type of air cleaner base plate that is used. I will have to modify the base plate on the ventilator AC to accommodate the banjo fittings, not a big deal, but because it is not a direct bolt on product, the manufacturer makes disclaimers. Doesn't mean it won't work.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #28 on:** October 17, 2015, 09:01:47 PM »

Quote from: robertg on October 17, 2015, 08:54:28 PM

This is how I vented my Heavy Breather.

That looks good! i see you are using the Kuryakyn breather bolts, but I didn't think they were long enough to install the banjo fitting on the outside of the AC. Can you show us how you did it? This won't work for me using a ventilator AC.

robertg · « **Reply #29 on:** October 17, 2015, 09:07:40 PM »

Quote from: pete_4854 on October 17, 2015, 09:01:47 PM

That looks good! i see you are using the Kuryakyn breather bolts, but I didn't think they were long enough to install the banjo fitting on the outside of the AC. Can you show us how you did it? This won't work for me using a ventilator AC.

I tapped threaded holes in the bolt covers, and the bolt sticks out on the inside. I have a short hose that joins the inside bolt head to the outside bolt.

A picture would be a lot easier to follow than my explanation.

ptnlinda · « **Reply #30 on:** October 17, 2015, 09:31:24 PM »

Quote from: pete_4854 on October 17, 2015, 08:54:45 PM

I believe this has to do with what type of air cleaner base plate that is used. I will have to modify the base plate on the ventilator AC to accommodate the banjo fittings, not a big deal, but because it is not a direct bolt on product, the manufacturer makes disclaimers. Doesn't mean it won't work.

Pete, Very interested to see how you do this as I would like to follow suit if possible.

North Star · « **Reply #31 on:** October 18, 2015, 09:57:14 PM »

Quote from: robertg on October 17, 2015, 09:07:40 PM

I tapped threaded holes in the bolt covers, and the bolt sticks out on the inside. I have a short hose that joins the inside bolt head to the outside bolt.

A picture would be a lot easier to follow than my explanation.

Thats just perfect! Please tell us what parts you used, etc. Looks really clean that way.

robertg · « **Reply #32 on:** October 18, 2015, 11:43:01 PM »

Quote from: North Star on October 18, 2015, 09:57:14 PM

Thats just perfect! Please tell us what parts you used, etc. Looks really clean that way.

It's the Kuryakyn bluegrass breather kit. I'm out of town so I can't take pictures.

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #33 on:** October 19, 2015, 12:00:38 PM »

Not all engines are equal so showing a pic of a piston clean or dirty proves what?? No idea of state of tune or how well rings sealed etc. If you do not want it inside vent it to the ground.. Or not,...... 99% of all the builds we do we let it go back in with no issues.. But that is a engine that has correct ring seal and proper tune..

TN · « **Reply #34 on:** October 19, 2015, 08:28:47 PM »

i agree that the pictures are not a good example, too many unknowns. There is no good reason that anything coming out of the breathers should be dumped back in the throttle body. So I think I will vent to the ground.

TN

North Star · « **Reply #35 on:** October 19, 2015, 10:56:21 PM »

Quote from: robertg on October 18, 2015, 11:43:01 PM

It's the Kuryakyn bluegrass breather kit. I'm out of town so I can't take pictures.

but where did you get the bracket that mounts the air filter on the left side? That isn't part of the Kury kit, is it?

I'd probably just use the little chrome can in the kit for me- especially since I have the Kury horn cover, so it would mount just like the pictures on their website.

robertg · « **Reply #36 on:** October 19, 2015, 11:10:53 PM »

Quote from: North Star on October 19, 2015, 10:56:21 PM

but where did you get the bracket that mounts the air filter on the left side? That isn't part of the Kury kit, is it?

I'd probably just use the little chrome can in the kit for me- especially since I have the Kury horn cover, so it would mount just like the pictures on their website.

It's in the Drag Specialties catalogue.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #37 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:04:36 PM »

Ok just finished installing the Kuryakyn bluegrass breather kit #9932 on my SERG. I'll attempt to take you through step by step how I did it. First remove gas tank and existing air cleaner. Great opportunity to clean and polish your rocker boxes and make sure wiring harnesses are clean and in good working order.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #38 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:12:06 PM »

Next lay out the parts you'll need from the breather kit: you only need the banjo fittings, aluminum washers and 3/8" breather bolts. In addition you'll need about 4 ft of 5/16" ID fuel/PCV hose and a 5/16" vacuum tee. Cut the hose going the the rear cylinder head 3.5" long, the front cylinder hose 7" long and use the remainder to run down the backbone to the ground. See photo.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #39 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:16:50 PM »

Next route the end of the long hose through the hole in the frame behind the rear cylinder head, into the battery compartment and then down parallel to the gas tank overflow hose.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #40 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:17:22 PM »

More...

SneakyPete · « **Reply #41 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:32:22 PM »

You will need to trim this hose to finish length once everything is set up, but for now just let it dangle under the bike.

Now since I'm going to modify the stock ventilator air cleaner because I can't use the stock breather bolts, I need a means to support the throttle body between the cylinder heads. Kuryakyn makes this part too, it's called a carburetor support bracket but it is identical to the HD induction module support bracket pn 27712-08 used on non-CVO air cleaners with plastic housings. The Kuryakyn pn is 9929 and comes in chrome of course!

Test fit the bracket to make sure everything is in alignment before tightening any bolts. The bracket comes with 1/4" socket head mounting screws. I had to take my die grinder and remove some metal in way of the breather bolts, likely due to having an HPI TB instead of stock, but it otherwise fit perfectly. Make sure the bracket is flat against the cylinder head, then install the banjo fittings and breather bolts with aluminum washers. The washers go on either side of the banjo fitting. Once installed it should look like the photo below.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #42 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:33:15 PM »

View from the top...

SneakyPete · « **Reply #43 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:35:09 PM »

I suggest taking a tie wrap and secure the vacuum tee to the front cylinder spark plug wire near the support clip to keep things tidy

SneakyPete · « **Reply #44 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:50:20 PM »

Make sure the breather bolts are tightened and you are finished with the breather install. Just trim the vent hose under the bike and secure as you see fit.

Next I had to modify the ventilator air cleaner backing plate since the "ears" that are used to bolt the AC to the heads are no longer needed. I used a hack saw to remove the "ears" and then set the backing plate up on my drill press table to mill the surface. I don't normally recommend using a drill press as a mill as the quill bearings are not designed for radial loads, however in this case I'm dealing with fairly soft cast aluminum material and only taking a series of "skim" cuts until I achieve the desired finish dimension. I used a 7/8" diameter HS two flute single ended end mill turning at 4000 rpm. Came out real nice. If you don't have this set up, a die grinder and disc sander would work as well.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #45 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:55:37 PM »

Since I now have two large holes in the backing plate, I need to plug those holes as I don't want to draw unfiltered air into the intake. I used a metal cutting hole saw to drill blanks out of 16 gauge sheet metal and used JB Weld to epoxy them in place.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #46 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:56:17 PM »

Epoxied in place...

SneakyPete · « **Reply #47 on:** October 20, 2015, 08:01:31 PM »

You also need to plug the original vents to the intake. I drilled out and tapped for 1/4" x 20 Allen head set screws and secured with locktite.

AC mods are now complete, so time to paint with HD granite spray paint to make it purdy again!

SneakyPete · « **Reply #48 on:** October 20, 2015, 08:02:10 PM »

Another...

SneakyPete · « **Reply #49 on:** October 20, 2015, 08:03:31 PM »

Ok ready to finish assemble and take for a test ride.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #50 on:** October 20, 2015, 08:04:35 PM »

Another...

SneakyPete · « **Reply #51 on:** October 20, 2015, 08:06:33 PM »

Finished and works beautifully!

SneakyPete · « **Reply #52 on:** October 20, 2015, 08:07:30 PM »

Really finished!

OBB · « **Reply #53 on:** October 20, 2015, 09:03:11 PM »

Looks great.

Now flip that outside air cleaner chrome cover upside down to hide that sticker.

ptnlinda · « **Reply #54 on:** October 21, 2015, 05:30:15 AM »

Thanks Pete that was very helpful. Great tutorial.

68 XLCH · « **Reply #55 on:** October 21, 2015, 09:13:38 AM »

Pete excellent work and pictorial.

danner55 · « **Reply #56 on:** October 21, 2015, 09:58:59 AM »

pete_4854,

After looking at your post my concern is what supports the air filter assembly? It looks like you removed the supports & plugged up the mounting bolt holes that mounts the air filter backing plate to the heads. As I see it you have the air filter assembly only supported by the throttle body.

Just my 2 cents!

Danner

SneakyPete · « **Reply #57 on:** October 21, 2015, 10:33:39 AM »

Quote from: danner55 on October 21, 2015, 09:58:59 AM

pete_4854,

After looking at your post my concern is what supports the air filter assembly? It looks like you removed the supports & plugged up the mounting bolt holes that mounts the air filter backing plate to the heads. As I see it you have the air filter assembly only supported by the throttle body.

Just my 2 cents!

Danner

That's correct, however, the AC itself weighs little and doesn't put any stress on the TB as long as the TB is properly supported. This is taken care of with the addition of the support bracket. Appreciate your feedback!

RonandJanet · « **Reply #58 on:** October 21, 2015, 01:01:32 PM »

Very nice! Thanks for taking the time to share this.

danner55 · « **Reply #59 on:** October 21, 2015, 01:40:14 PM »

pete_4854,

I failed to see the throttle body support bracket! Thanks for the info!

Dan_Lockwood · « **Reply #60 on:** October 22, 2015, 11:07:41 AM »

Quote from: danner55 on October 21, 2015, 01:40:14 PM

pete_4854,

I failed to see the throttle body support bracket! Thanks for the info!

Here's the picture of the upper TB cross brace. It bolts under the banjo bolts and then has two bolts down from the top into the top of the throttle body.

Also Robertg, if everyone is so concerned about the oil debris inside the AC, what happens when the condensed oil and water vapor hits the filter and then drains down the side of your transmission? Just thought that was an odd place to put the filter.

I have my old Shovelhead crankcase vented out the back and under the frame at the rear of the transmission. This is out of sight and only a little vapor comes out. UNLESS I've let it set of a month or so and the crank sump fills up and then it's a HUGE mess when it's fired back up. Be prepared to clean up half a quart or more.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #61 on:** October 22, 2015, 07:13:32 PM »

Quote from: Dan_Lockwood on October 22, 2015, 11:07:41 AM

Here's the picture of the upper TB cross brace. It bolts under the banjo bolts and then has two bolts down from the top into the top of the throttle body.

Also Robertg, if everyone is so concerned about the oil debris inside the AC, what happens when the condensed oil and water vapor hits the filter and then drains down the side of your transmission? Just thought that was an odd place to put the filter.

I have my old Shovelhead crankcase vented out the back and under the frame at the rear of the transmission. This is out of sight and only a little vapor comes out. UNLESS I've let it set of a month or so and the crank sump fills up and then it's a HUGE mess when it's fired back up. Be prepared to clean up half a quart or more.

Can't speak for a shovel head, but not the case for a twin cam.

danner55 · « **Reply #62 on:** October 23, 2015, 03:25:33 AM »

Evo motors will sump up.

Dan_Lockwood · « **Reply #63 on:** October 24, 2015, 12:13:18 AM »

Quote from: pete_4854 on October 22, 2015, 07:13:32 PM

Can't speak for a shovel head, but not the case for a twin cam.

I agree on the Twin Cam as it has a pan that's lower than the crankcase. It will not fill up with oil.

My point was to hide the filter underneath rather than possibly oil filming the side of the bike over the long term.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #64 on:** October 24, 2015, 07:36:53 AM »

If he were run the hose the way I did it, there would be no need for a filter at all and there would be no hose visible, nor any oil venting to ground.

The key point is that you route the hose up, not down and let gravity return any oil back to the head. No oil will get past the banjo fitting before it runs back into the head. It is the same concept as using an expansion tank for a hydraulic system.

jpb · « **Reply #65 on:** January 31, 2017, 11:26:25 AM »

Old thread I know!

Anyway to do this on an 2007 FLHTCUSE2 bike regarding the throttle body support bracket? I don't have holes in my HPI 58 Max-flow to marry up to that bracket shown in the photos.

FLTRI · « **Reply #66 on:** January 31, 2017, 11:44:52 AM »

Quote from: CVODON on October 11, 2015, 01:37:56 PM

After 50 years of fooling with motors, I see no need for this diverting the overflow waste. Let it burn, combustion temp is so high these days that immediately the fumes are turned into exhaust waste go away and they are almost fully fumes at this stage, turn to liquid as they cool and accumulate in hose or can. If really worried about it, use a add-on bung welded into high vacuum area of exhaust and let the exhaust suck it out like we did our race cars 40 years ago before we found vacuum pumps. But nothing I want to deal with in a can hung under a vehicle. JMHO.

My experience as well! Good post.
Bob

jpb · « **Reply #67 on:** July 26, 2017, 03:49:34 PM »

Old thread I know!

Anyway to do this on an 2007 FLHTCUSE2 bike regarding the throttle body support bracket? I don't have holes in my HPI 58 Max-flow to marry up to that bracket shown in the photos.

I have the old cable throttle body. Is there a support bracket that might work as shown in this article?

Thanks!

r0de_runr · « **Reply #68 on:** July 26, 2017, 06:48:09 PM »

Sorry guy, I don't know anything about your intake plumbing.

On mine, the bolts holding the intake to the side of the motor are hollow and allow the gasses in the valve rocker arm area to vent into the air cleaner area. By drilling and tapping, and installing a fitting, I routed those gasses to the ground. I plugged the orifices in my air cleaner backing plate with Blue RTV.

The reason I did it was not to prevent those gasses from entering my cumbustion chamber, but to prevent the condensate (mostly oil) from running down the inside of my air cleaner, saturating the air cleaner element, and ultimately dripping onto my cam chest while parked, or accumulating and then blowing all along the right side of my bike at speed.

Not everyone has this problem, nor chooses to fix it they way I did.

jpb · « **Reply #69 on:** July 26, 2017, 11:26:44 PM »

Quote from: r0de_runr on July 26, 2017, 06:48:09 PM

Sorry guy, I don't know anything about your intake plumbing.

On mine, the bolts holding the intake to the side of the motor are hollow and allow the gasses in the valve rocker arm area to vent into the air cleaner area. By drilling and tapping, and installing a fitting, I routed those gasses to the ground. I plugged the orifices in my air cleaner backing plate with Blue RTV.

The reason I did it was not to prevent those gasses from entering my cumbustion chamber, but to prevent the condensate (mostly oil) from running down the inside of my air cleaner, saturating the air cleaner element, and ultimately dripping onto my cam chest while parked, or accumulating and then blowing all along the right side of my bike at speed.

Not everyone has this problem, nor chooses to fix it they way I did.

You did a great fix! I just found what I was looking for so I could use your design to complete mine. I was simply looking for a support plate that could support my throttle body. Your support plate bolts to your heads and the top of your throttle body and mine does not have those holes on top of the TB so I need support from the face of the throttle body.

Just in case anyone else would like to see here is a photo of what I found online.

Thanks!!

Texas 103 · « **Reply #70 on:** September 15, 2017, 11:08:16 AM »

Quote from: Dan_Lockwood on October 22, 2015, 11:07:41 AM

Here's the picture of the upper TB cross brace. It bolts under the banjo bolts and then has two bolts down from the top into the top of the throttle body.

Also Robertg, if everyone is so concerned about the oil debris inside the AC, what happens when the condensed oil and water vapor hits the filter and then drains down the side of your transmission? Just thought that was an odd place to put the filter.

I have my old Shovelhead crankcase vented out the back and under the frame at the rear of the transmission. This is out of sight and only a little vapor comes out. UNLESS I've let it set of a month or so and the crank sump fills up and then it's a HUGE mess when it's fired back up. Be prepared to clean up half a quart or more.

Similar to Dan's set up, DId the banjo fitting s from Kury, milled the backplate the thickness of the fitting, bolted it right between backplate and head. Hoses run up and well hidden, no catch can, haven't seen a drop on the ground yet. Oil is running uphill.

jimfreeman · « **Reply #71 on:** September 20, 2017, 02:41:33 PM »

The "final" leg of the breather hose is actually in contact with the top of the rocker box before it goes through the hole in the frame & then on down to the ground. I cannot route the hose so that it is not laying on the rocker box. I am concerned that the heat from the rocker box will melt the hose. Anyone have a problem with the hose melting?

r0de_runr · « **Reply #72 on:** September 20, 2017, 06:29:45 PM »

Nope. I used 600 degree silicone fuel line.

jimfreeman · « **Reply #73 on:** September 20, 2017, 11:19:27 PM »

Good to know. Thank you.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #74 on:** September 21, 2017, 07:00:38 AM »

Quote from: jimfreeman on September 20, 2017, 02:41:33 PM

The "final" leg of the breather hose is actually in contact with the top of the rocker box before it goes through the hole in the frame & then on down to the ground. I cannot route the hose so that it is not laying on the rocker box. I am concerned that the heat from the rocker box will melt the hose. Anyone have a problem with the hose melting?

I used standard Advance Auto parts 3/8" fuel line. No problem, but which hole in the frame? Right or left side?

jimfreeman · « **Reply #75 on:** September 21, 2017, 07:21:41 AM »

Right side as you are sitting on bike i.e same side as air cleaner.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #76 on:** September 21, 2017, 10:27:59 AM »

What year is your bike?

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jimfreeman · « **Reply #77 on:** September 21, 2017, 03:08:59 PM »

2011 Ultra Limited FLHTK. Not a CVO (please no bashing for trying to learn something in CVO forum) but I wouldn't have thought that would matter for this purpose. If anything I would have thought my stock 103 engine would be a little smaller and thereby give more clearance.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #78 on:** September 21, 2017, 05:54:07 PM »

No bashing here! The 2009 and up frame has access holes for the hose on both left and right side. Use 3/8" fuel hose coming off the banjo fittings to a 3/8" vacuum "Y" fitting, then single 3/8" single hose that runs parallel to the spark plug wires and down through the access hole on the left side into the battery compartment and down the right side to ground. Hose will not touch the rocker box

jimfreeman · « **Reply #79 on:** September 21, 2017, 06:38:33 PM »

Will give that a try this weekend. Thanks for the guidance.

windjammer · « **Reply #80 on:** September 21, 2017, 06:43:28 PM »

Properly working umbrella valves would prevent the oil from getting there in the first place have you replaced them when you did the other work on your heads?

Author Topic: Want to see what crap your breather dumps into your intake? (Read 23011 times)