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[ssls6]

Just a note to say I opened up my primary case and found my chain tight.  With effort, I could move the chain up and down by maybe a 1/4".  I'm not sure how the auto-tensioner is designed to work but I took mine out and replaced it with a V-Twin 18-8328 manual tensioner.  For anyone else using this manual tensioner, I suggest throwing the allen headed adjuster bolt away and to set it by hand to where you want it then lock it down.

My bike is a 2010.5 black CVO ultra.

[secvoboy80]

interesting! I just installed the Baker attitude. so far no probs at all. But I think buyin another one for my dyna (freshly tuned up to 107").
So what you sayin is to throw away the allen screw that comes with this tensioner V-Twin and replace it with another screw?

[grc]

The instructions for that manual adjuster tell you to remove the adjusting screw after you've made the adjustment and tightened the other screws, to prevent damage to the primary housing and/or chain.  As ssls6 mentioned, you could just remove the adjusting screw up front, make the adjustment by hand and lock down the screws, thus eliminating the extra step of remembering to remove the adjusting screw.

http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/VTwinProd1_10101_10102_3371006_-1

Jerry

[jpb]

This looks similar in construction to the SE manual tensioner.  If I remember correctly a lot of people removed them because they were very noisy and or transmitted a lot of vibration to the powertrain? 

I will be curious how you like yours.  I had the Baker unit installed and properly tensioned as per the instructions.  It generated a lot of noise.  Later I removed it when a few folks were bending theirs.

[HoustonAgingDad]

interesting! I just installed the Baker attitude. so far no probs at all. But I think buyin another one for my dyna (freshly tuned up to 107").
So what you sayin is to throw away the allen screw that comes with this tensioner V-Twin and replace it with another screw?

I like the Baker as well. I figure I'm in my primary once a year anyway so I check and adjust as necessary then. The auto adjusting idea (I don't believe) is needed on a bike that is maintained regularly. (also its just one more moving thing to break)

[ssls6]

This looks similar in construction to the SE manual tensioner.  If I remember correctly a lot of people removed them because they were very noisy and or transmitted a lot of vibration to the powertrain? 

I will be curious how you like yours.  I had the Baker unit installed and properly tensioned as per the instructions.  It generated a lot of noise.  Later I removed it when a few folks were bending theirs.

I think it is a clone of the screaming eagle part and yes it is very noisy.   So noisy that I pulled it back out after 500 miles.  I don't think it was hurting anything (that I could see) but it was distracting.  I have since bought a Baker unit but sent it back after I looked it over carefully.  I'm now using a Hayden unit and so far it is working great.

Before anyone asks, the Baker unit appears to have been modified once or twice since the pictures posted on their site and on the web.  I'm sure these mods were to keep it from bending but shining a light through it you can see that it would take some precision machining to get all the baker surfaces (teeth, guide, slider) to fit flush at the same time.  For the Baker unit to work correctly (just my opinion) they need a new inner primary with bolt/boss to hold the top.  BTW, the changes they made have an effect of making it impossible to put on without removing the compensator/clutch hub first or I could not figure out an order to get them in.  Maybe a stretched chain has a better chance but on my bike it was not gonna happen.

The Hayden unit reviews are like 90% positive and I'm in that bucket.  My primary is quiet, shifts are better but not as good as the screaming eagle clone unit I had in, and I can move the chain up/down at least 5/8 compressing the Hayden springs.  Even if I must change the Hayden shoe/spring every 20k or so, I would do it.  Some have said their springs/shoes have broken but most people are happy and so am I.

I will check the Hayden after a few thousand miles and may end up with a different opinion 

[fastfreddy]

i went down this road and found the stock unit worked the best far as noise and chain slap. 49k on the bike and stock adjuster -4k miles of testing the options... (SE & hayden) and if any one wants i have the SE part for cheeeeep like new condition

[FlaHeatWave]

i went down this road and found the stock unit worked the best far as noise and chain slap. 49k on the bike and stock adjuster -4k miles of testing the options... (SE & hayden) and if any one wants i have the SE part for cheeeeep like new condition

I'm with fast on this the '09 SERG has 59k on the OE Tensioner, no issues or related issues, quiet, minimal wear on the shoe, chain always within specs when checked...
It ain't broke and I'm not going to "fix" it 'till it is

My trick; No engine braking until the drivetrain is up to / near operating temperature...

[Texas 103]

This looks similar in construction to the SE manual tensioner.  If I remember correctly a lot of people removed them because they were very noisy and or transmitted a lot of vibration to the powertrain? 

I will be curious how you like yours.  I had the Baker unit installed and properly tensioned as per the instructions.  It generated a lot of noise.  Later I removed it when a few folks were bending theirs.

My HD tech tells me to install new chain with the SE, let it establish it's own wear pattern,then it's quieter..

[fastfreddy]

My HD tech tells me to install new chain with the SE, let it establish it's own wear pattern,then it's quieter..

the SE piece makes so much noise you would not hear any thing...it will drown out the neutral rattle and lifter noise at the same time!  i got one cheeeep if you want it

[Texas 103]

the SE piece makes so much noise you would not hear any thing...it will drown out the neutral rattle and lifter noise at the same time!  i got one cheeeep if you want it

I'm going to stay with my stock adjuster. I'll take your word for it...  rather fix the neutral rattle the right way.. parts should be here next week...stay tuned

[longlast]

I had the same thing as ssis6 the HD auto tensioner had the chain super tight. In turn causing damage to the inner primary case bearing and clutch hub splines.

After doing some research as why the auto tensioner had become to the point of moving up to tighten up the chain so far I found that it can happen when you're heavy accelerating and hard shifting.

What happens is between each heavy acceleration shift as the chain comes off the bottom of the compensater (in a sense it's being pushed)  inturn the chain becomes slack and it allows the auto tensioner to move up another notch to the point where it can't go any further and you got a primary chain tighter than a piano string.

If you like power shifting get rid of the the auto tensioner.
I still have the auto tensioner in mine but I don't do any more heavy shifting keeping it smoother. I've checked the tension two times since the repair and it's been good.

[DCFIREMANN]

Check out the Southern Oregon Hot Bikes true Hydraulic tensioner. I looked at the and removed my Baker unit and swapped it out. I have had no problems with it at all. My primary is quite as a church mouse. www.sohotbikes.com They have a you tube video on the unit as well.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Rooster]

Looks similar to the Hayden unit but may be better. Glad it works well for you.

[DCFIREMANN]

Looks similar to the Hayden unit but may be better. Glad it works well for you.

I really like my entire clutch, comp and tensioner set up that I have in the bike now. The clutch is no joke. It starts to grab as soon as you start to release the lever and my primary is quite as a church mouse. I would have loved to have found an older primary that had the inspection cover for the primary chain. I might have stuck with the Baker tensioner.

Be Safe

THE DAWG