If you don't turn the ignition on before you start, the fuel pump will not energize and there will be no pressure on the fuel tank quick disconnect.
I just laid the fuel tank console back on a towel where the seat used to be.
You think you have to remove the upper front motor mount but the front rocker cover will come off without removing the mount or torque rod-it will only come in and out one way.
Before removing rocker support bolts, get that cylinder on it's base circle by turning the rear wheel in 6th gear with plugs removed.
Even with the lifters all the way down, there is still pressure on the aluminum rocker plate so when you loosen the rocker bolts loosen them up evenly.
You can't use a gear ratchet wrench on the rocker bolts until the bolts are up some. I brought home a co workers 1/4" drive thin ratchet an an extremely short 7/16 and 1/2" sockets and had clearance between the frame and engine to get rocker bolts out.
On the rear rocker assy, you have to remove it with the 2 horn side bolts still in the plate and reinstall the same way.
All the bolts you remove will have a white sealer on them so buff the threads clean.
When putting back together, hand start all bolts several threads before tighteneing.
I did not torque the 8 rocker bolts, just tightened them as tight as I could with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Again draw the support plate down a few turns at a time-EVENLY.
Pushrod holders are PIA..
The Rocker Locker bushings are tapered on one end. The tapered end will fit thru the supplied washer. When you stick the bushing in the rocker, about 3/8" should stick up. If so, then draw bushing in with rocker bolt and supplied washer and nut. It is possible for the rocker shaft to rotate so make sure the rocker shaft flat is in the correct position-the bolt will easily go thru.
I soaked the lifters for a couple hours but still clattered for 20 seconds on start up.
Babbling now-good luck.