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[UFO_HOG]

My saga and discovery......

Had front D407 warrantied at 5k - Badly cupped, replaced with D408

Replaced rear tire @ 6500 miles after SERG rear wheel inspection, badly cupped and had 3600 mile trip planned and didn't want to change it on the road.

When I replaced the front tire, at the same time (5k), I also stopped using MoCo recommendations for tire pressure and went with the max pressure listed on the tire. (42 rear, 41 front) Also put Dyna-Beads in the tires and removed all wheel weights.

Results: Over 5k on new front tire and over 3.6k on rear tire using max pressures and Dyna-Beads. Tires show absolutly no signs of cupping and show good wear. Only downside is it rides a little rougher.

Disclaimer: These are my results, yours may vary,  but I'll give you more reports as I get more miles on the tires.

[RayG]

I'm going to give the added air pressure a shot as well. So now we will have two of us reporting on the results.

Ray G.

[Firechief2]

I have been running max pressure since new -- no cupping and good wear life (currently at 16000 klm [10,000 miles] )

[RedDevil]

Because I'm not a small guy, I've always ignored the MoCo's recommended tire pressure and gone with the max on the side walls.  Have never had any abnormal tire wear. 

   

[Twolanerider]

Because I'm not a small guy, I've always ignored the MoCo's recommended tire pressure and gone with the max on the side walls.  Have never had any abnormal tire wear. 

   

99 times out of 100 if a car manufacturer's spec for tire pressure is less than the tire manufacturer's the car manufacturer is just try to gain a ride improvement they were unable to build in to their suspension.  I always run tires at the tire builder's specifications.  Makes more sense.

[Weasels]

I also have run maximum pressure from new and now with 12500 miles and still have 50% wear left on the rear tire front is cupped badly. As the last half wears faster than the first half I think I will get at least another 10000 miles before I replace. Speeds between 70 and 80 miles hr.

[LarryB]

on my First set of 407's I ran 36lbs both front and rear, front started cupping at 5k, not so bad that it hurt the ride. at 13.5k I changed tires, both F & R, got the 408 on the front, still running 36lbs, got 4k on this set and they look fine.
oh, by the way, dyna beads voids Dunlop warrantee

[UFO_HOG]

oh, by the way, dyna beads voids Dunlop warrantee

Outside of the tire falling apart during the mounting process, what exactly is covered. Cause the first time you exceed the legal speed limit, your warranty is void..............

I'll take my chances, they work great!

[grc]

WHAT IS WARRANTED
Every new Dunlop motorcycle tire that becomes unserviceable within six years or 72 months of the date of manufacture for conditions other than those which are listed under "WHAT IS NOT COVERED" will be replaced on the basis specified under "REPLACEMENT COST" below.


ELIGIBILITY
This warranty is extended to the first retail purchaser.


REPLACEMENT COST UP TO 50% WORN
If, during the first fifty percent (50%) of tread wear, the tire becomes unserviceable for a condition covered by this warranty, it will be replaced with a comparable new Dunlop tire. You pay only for retailer services, such as mounting and balancing.


AFTER 50% TREAD WEAR
If, after the first fifty percent (50%) of tread wear, the tire becomes unserviceable for a condition covered by this warranty, your Dunlop motorcycle tire retailer will replace it with a comparable new Dunlop tire at a cost calculated in the following manner:
1.   Either your original buying price substantiated by invoice, or the retailer's current selling price, times (x)
2.   Fifty percent (50%)
3.   Plus (+) all applicable federal excise taxes, and local taxes and all charges for retailer services such as mounting and balancing
A CASH REFUND WILL NOT BE EXTENDED IN LIEU OF THE ABOVE.


WHAT IS NOT COVERED
•   Tires worn beyond the last one thirty-second of an inch (1/32") of original tread depth. Beyond this point, the tire has delivered its original tread life and there is no warranty regardless of its age or mileage.
•   Tires submitted for unserviceable before wear-out (1/32" tread depth remaining), but more than 72 months after the week of manufacture as determined by the U.S. Department of Transportation serial identification number.
•   Tires submitted for non-uniformity or any ride related condition that are worn beyond the first 25% of useable tread depth.
•   Tires on motorcycles normally operated outside the U.S. and Canada.
•   Tires used in racing, other competition, or in excess of legal speed limits. See also speed restriction for repaired tired in "Tire Selection Care and Maintenance."
•   Highway-type tired used for off-the-road service or in any application not recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer.
•   Tires used on motorcycles fitted with trailers.
•   Claims made by anyone other than the first retail purchaser of the tire.
•   Tubeless tires fitted without innertubes to rims requiring innertubes.
•   Tires molded or branded "tube type" fitted without innertubes.
•   Tires fitted with used, damaged or incorrect size innertubes.
Note: New replacement tires should always be fitted with new tubes for safety. Radial tires fitted with tubes not marked with matching size or radial (R) designation.
•   Tires improperly repaired (see Tire Tips), with section repairs, or whose sidewalls have been modified by the addition or removal of material. The serviceability of any repaired/altered tire is entirely the responsibility of the person making the repair or modification.
•   Tires injected with dry/liquid balancers or sealants, or in which anything other than air has been used as the support medium.
•   The consequences of new tires or repaired tires not being subjected to a proper run-in/break-in period (see Tire Tips).
•   Tires rendered unserviceable by road hazard-type damage such as impact breaks, punctures, cuts or snags; or as a result of an obstruction on the motorcycle, fire, corrosives, running while flat, misalignment, improperly maintained balance, suspension, deficiencies, improper inflation, overloading, improper mounting or rim fitment; or by spinning, as in mud snow, sand, on ice or during on-the-motorcycle balancing or dynamometer testing.
•   Ozone cracking/weather checking for tires treated with dressings or incompatible cleaning agents or submitted more than 48 months after manufacture.
•   There is no warranty for any specific mileage achievement.

Jerry

[grc]

(continued)

OWNER OBLIGATIONS
•   You are responsible for proper tire care, and lawful and prudent motorcycle operation. Maintain tire inflation and load in accordance with motorcycle owner's manual, tire information placard and restrictions molded on tire sidewalls.* Frequently check inflation pressure with a tire gauge and inspect for damage or irregular wear.
*Exceptions: For high speed, fully loaded or dual riding touring motorcycle applications, inflate front tires to 34 psi and rear tires to maximum load inflation pressure on sidewalls. Rear touring tires must be inflated to a minimum 36 psi for light to medium loads and 40 psi for dual riding and other loads. Never exceed maximum load indicated on the tire sidewall or vehicle capacity load found in owner's manual.


FOR REPLACEMENT CONSIDERATION
You should present the tire to the retailer from whom you bought the tire or, if the Dunlop tire in question was fitted as original equipment, to the retailer from whom you bought the motorcycle. With the exception of mail-order tires you may also submit your tire to any other retailer selling Dunlop motorcycle tires.

Should you be unable to contact any of those retailers, please contact the Dunlop Motorcycle Tire Sales office at 1-800-845-8378.
•   A mail order tire must be returned to the company from which you ordered it and you must pay all associated shipping and handling costs.
•   Except for tires which become unserviceable during the first 50% of tread wear, you must pay the previously specified 50% replacement cost.
•   You must pay the difference in retailer's price for any more expensive replacement tire of different design.
•   You must pay all applicable taxes and any charges for retailer services.

LEGAL RIGHTS
No implied or express warranties, either for merchantability or otherwise, are extended beyond the time when the tire has delivered its original tread life as shown by tread wear to one thirty-second of an inch(1/32"). Except for the express warranties set forth in this "Limited Warranty," all other warranties, conditions, representations, promises, guarantees, covenants or collateral agreements, express or implied, statutory or otherwise, relating to the tire or any services provided in relation thereto are excluded to the extent permitted by law.

To the extent permitted by law, Dunlop shall not be responsible for (1) any commercial loss, (2) any damage to, or loss of property other than the tire itself, or (3) for any other type of incidental, indirect, special or consequential damages, arising from any cause whatsoever, including negligence.

Some states in the U.S. do not allow limitation on how long an implied warranty lasts, or the exclusion of incidental, indirect, special or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

In Canada, legislation in some provinces provides for certain additional warranties or remedies other than as stated herein, and to the extent that the same may not be waived, the limitations and exclusions set out above may not apply to you. This Limited Warranty gives you specific legal rights. You also may have other rights that vary from province to province.


MODIFICATIONS
No dealer, distributor, or representative has authority to make any statement, commitment, promise or agreement binding upon Dunlop, except as stated herein, or except for any statement made binding upon Dunlop by and applicable law.

Jerry

[LarryB]

ok, so we don't care about the warrantee. but alot say "they work great". can anyone tell me in what way they work great. I ask people who use them to explain, and all they say it, no weights on my wheels. beyond that i don't get anything.. oh, by the way, it voids metzlers and avons too. Dyna beads were first made with the intent on use in trailer tires, square cut. and they got adapted to other things, motorcycle tires, round cut.
I need more feedback, and something besides "they work great" before I drink the Kool Aide

[grc]

ok, so we don't care about the warrantee. but alot say "they work great". can anyone tell me in what way they work great. I ask people who use them to explain, and all they say it, no weights on my wheels. beyond that i don't get anything.. oh, by the way, it voids metzlers and avons too. Dyna beads were first made with the intent on use in trailer tires, square cut. and they got adapted to other things, motorcycle tires, round cut.
I need more feedback, and something besides "they work great" before I drink the Kool Aide

I've searched for some scientific test results or data on these, and on various types of balancing liquids, over the years and haven't really found anything that's convinced me yet.  As you say, all I can find is comments from users.  How many folks could really tell the difference, especially when used on a bike with a 1960's design suspension?  Do these things really provide a good balance, or is it like some of those J.C. Whitney performance or fuel economy improvers that folks swear by to keep from having to admit to themselves they got taken?  I don't know.

Perhaps we need to do a blind test.  Take a small fleet of bikes, remove all the wheel weights, and install the beads in half the bikes.  Then take the wheels with the beads and throw them on a good modern dynamic brake balance machine and see how much imbalance the machine finds.  Then take a group of riders and have them ride each bike and decide if it does or doesn't have the beads installed just by the ride and handling characteristics.  Collect all the data, crunch the numbers, and I wouldn't be surprised to find that the results show no significance.  In other words, nothing different than just random guesses.  I might be surprised, but I somehow doubt it.

I think the real answer is in the comment I highlighted in the quoted post.  No visible wheel weights, and we all know how much Harley rider's value style over performance.  Take all those ugly wheel weights off, and even if the tires bounce all over the highway it's a good mod because I don't have to look at all those ugly weights. 

OK you bead proponents, take your best shot.  Convince me with some real evidence, not just "I think" comments.

Jerry

[Dracula]

I think the real answer is in the comment I highlighted in the quoted post.  No visible wheel weights, and we all know how much Harley rider's value style over performance.  Take all those ugly wheel weights off, and even if the tires bounce all over the highway it's a good mod because I don't have to look at all those ugly weights. 

How do you get the ugly wheel weights to stay on?  Mine were MIA (just the weight, not the adhesive backing, so it wasn't a cleaning the wheel issue) in 2 - 3K miles.

[Hoist!]

I've searched for some scientific test results or data on these, and on various types of balancing liquids, over the years and haven't really found anything that's convinced me yet.  As you say, all I can find is comments from users.  How many folks could really tell the difference, especially when used on a bike with a 1960's design suspension?  Do these things really provide a good balance, or is it like some of those J.C. Whitney performance or fuel economy improvers that folks swear by to keep from having to admit to themselves they got taken?  I don't know.

Perhaps we need to do a blind test.  Take a small fleet of bikes, remove all the wheel weights, and install the beads in half the bikes.  Then take the wheels with the beads and throw them on a good modern dynamic brake balance machine and see how much imbalance the machine finds.  Then take a group of riders and have them ride each bike and decide if it does or doesn't have the beads installed just by the ride and handling characteristics.  Collect all the data, crunch the numbers, and I wouldn't be surprised to find that the results show no significance.  In other words, nothing different than just random guesses.  I might be surprised, but I somehow doubt it.

I think the real answer is in the comment I highlighted in the quoted post.  No visible wheel weights, and we all know how much Harley rider's value style over performance.  Take all those ugly wheel weights off, and even if the tires bounce all over the highway it's a good mod because I don't have to look at all those ugly weights.  

OK you bead proponents, take your best shot.  Convince me with some real evidence, not just "I think" comments.

Jerry

The only evidence I have Jerry, is that my bike had a slight vibration every time I threw a wheel weight off. That's how I realized it was gone. Now with the Dyna Beads, I have NO vibration, nor do I have ANY wheel weights! That's good enough proof for me, albeit, not the scientific proof you requested!

Hoist!

[UFO_HOG]

Not scientific, Rode bike on freeway at 70 mph on cruise, let go of bars, slight vibration of handlebars. Put in Dyna Beads, same freeway at same speed, NO Vibration........

You will notice a difference......