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Author Topic: Clutch Line replacment  (Read 4448 times)

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mjb765

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Clutch Line replacment
« on: March 28, 2011, 08:47:33 PM »

OK--what am I missing??? Had to install a longer clutch line on the SESG2 when I put the new bars on. Filled up the master cyl and used a vacuum bleeder at the valve on the trans cover. Got all the air out after filling the master up a few times. Then starting pumping the lever, then holding it while releasing the valve. Did that A LOT and still I have no resistance at all up top. Checked for leaks--nothing....I have been through more than 1/2 bottle of fluid. Does this sound right and should I keep going, or does it sound like I missed something???

Mike
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mattm

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2011, 09:38:56 PM »

When you open the valve while holding the lever in, do you see any bubbles in the fluid that comes out?

When you took the old line out, are you sure you got the little o-ring on the slave out?
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Half_Crazy

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2011, 09:55:59 PM »

Take the bleeder all the way out... wrap the threads in teflon tape (plumber's tape)... and reinstall. The Vac might be sucking air through the threads, not pulling through the line.
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mjb765

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2011, 10:27:48 PM »

When you open the valve while holding the lever in, do you see any bubbles in the fluid that comes out?

When you took the old line out, are you sure you got the little o-ring on the slave out?

At first I thought you might be right, so I went back out and pulled the line out of the trans to check...then I found the old o ring on the floor--so that wasn't it:(  Just went through it again and it starts to feel like something at the lever, then I bleed it and it never comes back again.
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mjb765

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2011, 10:29:12 PM »

Take the bleeder all the way out... wrap the threads in teflon tape (plumber's tape)... and reinstall. The Vac might be sucking air through the threads, not pulling through the line.

I have the hose right up to the nut on the bleeder...not all the way to the threads. Still have to get the wrench on the bleeder to open it.
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digga25

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2011, 10:34:56 PM »

dont use the vac do it by hand
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mattm

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2011, 10:52:41 PM »

You might try a bit of grease around the base of the bleeder.  This keeps you from sucking air around the threads of the bleeder.  Worst case, pitch the bleeder and get yourself a speedbleeder.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2011, 10:59:31 PM »

With those small reservoirs and chambers it's easy for cavitation or turbulence to leave some air behind.  So best bet often is to bleed it by hand.  It's a must do if using DOT5 fluid.  Absolutely can not use a power bleeder of any kind with DOT5.

If bleeding by hand don't just pump once and open the bleeder.  Pump the lever slowly but fully four or five times.  Then while holding the lever down open the bleeder screw.  Repeat as necessary to get it bled.  Just make sure the reservoir isn't run low on fluid.
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Half_Crazy

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2011, 06:16:29 AM »

I have the hose right up to the nut on the bleeder...not all the way to the threads. Still have to get the wrench on the bleeder to open it.

never mind...
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mjb765

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #9 on: March 29, 2011, 06:49:41 AM »

With those small reservoirs and chambers it's easy for cavitation or turbulence to leave some air behind.  So best bet often is to bleed it by hand.  It's a must do if using DOT5 fluid.  Absolutely can not use a power bleeder of any kind with DOT5.

If bleeding by hand don't just pump once and open the bleeder.  Pump the lever slowly but fully four or five times.  Then while holding the lever down open the bleeder screw.  Repeat as necessary to get it bled.  Just make sure the reservoir isn't run low on fluid.

It's DOT4..if that makes a difference. Been pumping, holding and opening as described. I can only do it 2 or 3 cycles then I have to fill up the reseroir so the the fluid level doesn't expose the hole.
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timo482

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2011, 07:30:26 AM »

when i installed a hyd clutch in my 2000.... i finally cracked the bleeder just a 32 of a turn - and filled the rez and walked away - checked it every few hours to make sure it was not dry up top - after 24 hrs of gravity - a bubble appeared in the rez - added fluid - closed the bleeder and it was good till i sold the bike.

VERY frustrating

VERY hard to bleed

to
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porthole

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2011, 09:13:01 AM »

Keep the grease in the can and not on the bleeder.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2011, 12:01:37 PM »

It's DOT4..if that makes a difference. Been pumping, holding and opening as described. I can only do it 2 or 3 cycles then I have to fill up the reseroir so the the fluid level doesn't expose the hole.

The few cycles and refill is normal.  It's a small reservoir and you use it up quickly.  No problems created by a pressure or vac bleeder if you've been using DOT4. 

Might be worthwhile to try letting it gravity bleed for a bit.  Put a line on the open bleeder and let it drain in to a bottle of fluid.  This can take awhile.  And it's easy to drain enough that sometime later you realize the handlebar reservoir has drained too low or too completely.  So you need to watch it with some regularity. 

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mjb765

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #13 on: March 29, 2011, 12:07:04 PM »

The few cycles and refill is normal.  It's a small reservoir and you use it up quickly.  No problems created by a pressure or vac bleeder if you've been using DOT4. 

Might be worthwhile to try letting it gravity bleed for a bit.  Put a line on the open bleeder and let it drain in to a bottle of fluid.  This can take awhile.  And it's easy to drain enough that sometime later you realize the handlebar reservoir has drained too low or too completely.  So you need to watch it with some regularity. 



I was thinking I may try that tonight......At least I can leave the reservoir cover off for that instead of the on and off every minute cycle you do while bleeding.

As soon as I get this annoying thing called "work" out of the way I can get back to working on this!
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Twolanerider

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Re: Clutch Line replacment
« Reply #14 on: March 29, 2011, 12:12:22 PM »

I was thinking I may try that tonight......At least I can leave the reservoir cover off for that instead of the on and off every minute cycle you do while bleeding.

As soon as I get this annoying thing called "work" out of the way I can get back to working on this!

One idea to consider if trying the gravity bleed thing.  The parts stores commonly have attachment kits you can screw on to the top of a bottle of brake fluid that allow turning the bottle upside down on a master cylinder reservoir.  This allows for continual refilling while bleeding and is handy if wanting to walk off and let one gravity bleed for awhile. 

The little plastic things work.  But you have to be careful or you'll make a heluva mess.  I've used them on bikes when dual front calipers just wouldn't bleed (usually DOT5 crap) and I wanted to walk off and leave it for a bit to bleed on its own. 
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