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[103_RK]

I have a 03 SE Road King with a race tuner.  I changed from Rinehart True Duals to V&H Bigshot Duals with Thunder Monster baffles.  The bike ran OK but would run sluggishly between 1800 and 2000 rpm.  I kept adjusting the fuel between 1500 and 2000 rpm from 0 to 30% throttle.  It runs much better now.  Why is the rear cylinder VE table so much less than the front.  I would have thought it would be more fuel in the rear since it would run hotter than the front.  Also I have a Daytona twintec scan tool.  I was looking at the rear cylinder timing yesterday and saw where there was a small amount of detonation.  The twintec shoed where the knock sensor retarded the timing.  THis wasn't ever the case before.  Is this a fuel or timing issue?  I hate to start on the wrong table.  It still hiccups slightly when accelerating from 1800 to 2000.  I know some say I shouldn't run below 2000 but I always have and it used to run fine there.  Also when I am at idle, I can hear a different sound from the left and right pipes, it sounds like the rear cylinder is running slower than the front.  Maybe I am just paranoid but I would like to get this corrected befor going to the fall rally at Myrtle Beach in October.

[syclone]

The rear VE's are different in the SERT map for your RK because the stock system which splits the exhaust 75 % right and 25 % left causes the rear cylinder to be scavanged less than the front. The rear also runs hotter so it needs LESS fuel..different timing.
Dont know what version SERT you have...but since you are running true duals..If you can..try loading the map for an SE 103 Fat Boy.
Cut the target AF's down to 13.9 anywhere they are higher...dont touch the timing tables.
Cut the Decel Enleanment values by at least 50 % for decel popping with the Thunder monsters...if it pops..reduce them some more.

[103_RK]

Cyclone, The map I have came from HD Maps for a 103" 2001 to 2004 FLHTCSE with the SE air cleaner and Rinehart true duals.  It was for duals without the factory pipes.  Would you still reccomend the fatboy map?  I don't mind expirementing.  I have Race Tuner version 4.1.2.  I am afraid of detonation, so I don't mess with timing.  I have been adjusting the feul by the front and rear VE tables.
 Thanks

[syclone]

Sure...try the Fat boy map..if you compare it to the canned flhtcse2 map in the SERT you will see the big differences in the VE and timing tables. just may cure your low rpm concerns.
you can always go back to the HD Maps load.  you will not hurt anything...and it's FREE!

[jdracing]

That's the map I'm running on my SEEG with V&H Dresser Duals, Samson Rolled Thunders, and a Ness Big Sucker.  Modified as suggested by Syclone.  Have to work really hard to make it ping audibly (like lug it in 5th at 20 MPH--I was trying to see if I could do it).  Performs much better than the canned map (I have the same version SERT as you) for the stock headers, SE Mufflers, and SE air cleaner.

[103_RK]

JDRacing, I am going to try the Fatboy map if one more thing doesn't work out.  I found out my injector setting in the ECM Tuning COnstants table was 4.18 and supposed to be 4.35.  After changing this setting, I now need to go back where I started to make sure that wasn't the problem.  I will probably change to the Fatboy map this afternoon.

[Unbalanced]

Some of the guys are changing the injectors to 4.22 instead of 4.35.   This was seen in maps by HD Maps (matt g).   I ran it for a while on my wifes bike and my only complaint is the Fuel tables are all over the place as were the VE Tables.    Personally I prefer to see set F/A tables such as 14 to 1 at 20 perecent down to 12.8 or 12.6 at WOT (100 perecnt)

Then tune the bike based on Volumetric Efficiency and timing.

Works much better and its much easier when you want to make subtle changes to know that your VE is correct.  This is generally done by making all the tables X number than using VE to get there.   If you get there when you say I want 14 to 1 later all i do then is adjust the A/F and i know its right because the Volumetric efficiencies are already right.

-harry

[103_RK]

I tried the fatboy map and it wasn't better than mine.  I has an ecm failure and had to take the bike to the harley dealer.  I am close with my map.  It still stumbles a little between 1750 and 2000 rpms.  I may let the harley dealer look at the map since the bike is there anyway.  I think my extended warrenty will cover the ecm.  I hope they will do something about the race tuner.  I am not sure the race tuner will work with a new ecm  I know the race tuner marries itself to the ecm.  I think it uses the vin number and may work with the new one.

[Unbalanced]

If your stuck let me know I have a few maps you can try only takes a few minutes to setup / download / go for a ride

PM me with an email address or phone number, if you want to give one a try for the SERT.

-harry

[103_RK]

email is scon@comcast.net.  What does "PM me" mean?

[syclone]

pm = personal message

[Unbalanced]

I will send them off to you tomorrow.  Check your mail around noon EST.

-harry

[103_RK]

Thanks Unbalanced.  Hopefully the new ecm will be in soon and I can be riding.

[porthole]

[porthole]

Harry - Syclone

How familiar are you guys with the SERT mods?

I am thinking that when I get my bike back (2 weeks now for a stupid bent valve) I want to make any changes that will help lower the rear cylinder temp.

I believe that my engine problem is due to the higher heat levels in the rear cylinder allowing the oil to coke and gum up, especially in th eguide and the valve bent because of the gummed up guide. The bike was not fully warmed up yet and that is the only thing that makes sense.

There are no SERT tuners around here so I am making any changes myself. Right now I am using the recommend map with the only change being to lower the rev limit.

map = 05 FLHTCSE2 #13 127HX022

Bike is stock except for SE air cleaner and V&H ovals With duals

Thanks