Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[FXR4seattle]

So, I had to do a new ring gear on my FXR4, and decided while I was in the primary that I might as well upgrade to an Auto primary chain tensioner. I replaced the stock one with the Harley auto one. The B version. I have installed it, and test riddent the bike around the block. No faster than 30 so far. slight whine at idle, I figure that is normal. my question is the following.

1. How does the tensioner not ratchet too tight? it seems like IF you ride "hard" with the bike it may ratchet too tight and then would stay there., I have heard this can cause tress on other bearings and may cause them to fail.

2. How does the tensioner work. I get that its spring loaded and that it ratchets. Once it goes up a notch, is it still spring loaded for a lower tension? The notches are tiny. I would almost rather they be larger to allow slightly mor play before going tighter.

   Anyway, I was wondering about thoughts, or if I need to switch to a different one. Fully understanding how the Harley one works may make me slightly less paranoid.


6/14/13

   So, I ditched the new harley tensioner after taking the bike on the freeway and back home. Checked it after that, and the chain almost seemed like a guitarr string. some movement, but definately not enough to get rid of the paranoia. So...I immediately ordered the Hayden, while cursing myself for not doing so in the first place!!

   I have been riding around with the Hayden for a few hundred miles now and love it. Bike shifts great. There seems to be less jolting when throttling down. Bike is smoother. very slight whine at idle, but they say that will go away. still using harley primary oil. Tried synthetic in there (yes for wet clutch application) and it seemed to make a little more noise. Harleys stuff seemed a little thicker, so I went back to that.

   Thanks!!!

[North Georgia Hawg]

Get a Hayden!

[dartman]

The one you had was fine I never had to adjust the OEM ones more then once or twice, you are correct the new ones tighten and dont release.

[01fxdxt]

I find it a bit amusing that the MoCo now sells an old style manual set one  as a Squawking Chicken part.And before the aftermarket was tripping over each other to make an auto one.

[grc]

So, I had to do a new ring gear on my FXR4, and decided while I was in the primary that I might as well upgrade to an Auto primary chain tensioner. I replaced the stock one with the Harley auto one. The B version. I have installed it, and test riddent the bike around the block. No faster than 30 so far. slight whine at idle, I figure that is normal. my question is the following.

1. How does the tensioner not ratchet too tight? it seems like IF you ride "hard" with the bike it may ratchet too tight and then would stay there., I have heard this can cause tress on other bearings and may cause them to fail.

2. How does the tensioner work. I get that its spring loaded and that it ratchets. Once it goes up a notch, is it still spring loaded for a lower tension? The notches are tiny. I would almost rather they be larger to allow slightly mor play before going tighter.

   Anyway, I was wondering about thoughts, or if I need to switch to a different one. Fully understanding how the Harley one works may make me slightly less paranoid.

   Thanks!!!

You were much better off with the stock setup IMHO, but if you really want an automatic adjuster you'd be much better off with either the Hayden spring loaded tensioner (no ratchet) or the SOHOT HB-125 hydraulic unit.

The Harley unit only works one way, tightening.  Once the ratchet mechanism catches in it's new tighter position, the only way it will loosen up is when you go in there and manually release it, right before you take it out and throw it away.  It didn't make much sense when they first released it, and it still doesn't make much sense. 

JMHO - Jerry

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The OE tensioner in that bike is just fine.
Scott

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

HD did revamp the it with a a change to tooth angle. Even on the 124 that we do the stock auto item works fine. Have not had issues on the newer version .  But understand there is much less room in the new primary due to the gear change and if the chain gets just a touch too loose it will slap the inner.  love it hate it what ever.. or buy a hayden with a spring to bounce all over the place while it runs   or a HB hyd oil item that will not pump at 70% of the time, until you run it down the road for many miles with the chain hammering away.   

[djkak]

...But understand there is much less room in the new primary due to the gear change and if the chain gets just a touch too loose it will slap the inner.  love it hate it what ever.. or buy a hayden with a spring to bounce all over the place while it runs ...   

If the inertia of the rotating primary and transmission components will bottom-out the shoe of the Hayden tensioner while simply revving the engine in neutral, just imagine the action during a crisp downshift, or during engine braking. The only thing preventing the top span of the primary chain from contacting the inner housing is the shoe’s mechanical stop; the springs appear to be simple “window dressing”. JMHO.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The OE unit, as I mentioned is absolutely fine.
Scott

[SneakyPete]

I've had the HD auto tensioner on my bike for 60K miles with no issues whatsoever.  Chain stays taught, but not tight, barely any wear on the shoe.  I installed it because it was available at the time, but agree there was nothing wrong with the OE tensioner to begin with.