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[dlg]

All,

    I just installed a reverse gear on my 2011 CVO street glide and I have one issue that keeps me from using it. According to the instructions you shift into first gear and then into neutral, this stops the transmission from spinning.  But it keeps spinning and would grind the reverse gears if I tried to use.  My wife's bike is same year and model and will stop the transmission when I go from 1st to neutral.  How do I know "no clunk" as long as I hold the clutch in. I have 44k miles on it.  Not sure how to resolve.  Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
David

[LilysBigDaddy]

One of the members JoeVib has this, I think his was a Baker, If you don't get a reply on this, but you probably will, you could contact him, you out there Joe?

[JoeVibe]

Mine is a Baker F6R and it works from the stock foot shifter, with a push button operated "safety" solenoid to keep it from going into reverse when it's not supposed to. With mine, when you're in first gear, you press the button and downshift one more time to put it into reverse. Up shifting one time puts it back into first. It'll only go into reverse when the safety button is depressed.

From your description, it sounds like yours is like Judy's (LovemyCVOgirl). Judy's is a Champion unit, has a shifter on the right side of the trans to put it into reverse and I seem to remember Judy explaining the procedure as you did. I've only seen her use it once so I don't want to tell you something wrong. Hopefully Judy will see this and be able to help you.

Once you figure it out you'll love it! Definitely one of my favorite mods!

Joe

[grc]

After you shift into neutral, are you keeping the clutch lever pulled in or releasing it?  I haven't read the instructions, but I would assume you would want to keep the clutch disengaged.  If you have the clutch lever pulled in and the trans is still spinning, your clutch is dragging.

Jerry

[dlg]

Hi Jerry,

    Thanks for getting back to me. You do have to keep the clutch in and I actually looked at my hand to make sure.  I also followed your direction on another post and bled the clutch and as I was doing that I notice some play in the lever before it makes contact with the plunger.  I took the lever off and found that the bearing put a grove in the piston.  The piston when pushing on it moves about a 1/8 inch freely.  On my wife's bike there is zero play, and her bike works as expected.  I am going to have the clutch reservoir replace under warranty.  Next step would be to replace the clutch pack, which looks relatively easy. 

[mcdonaldroadcapt]

I have a champion on my 08 CUSE and instructions say the same. I have learned over time that you have to place lever in reverse IMMEDIATELY after clicking first and back to neutral. If you wait two seconds it will still grind.

[dlg]

I did get it to work when the bike was cold.  It was very consistent for about a minute and worked great.  As you can see from the picture I may not be getting all of the hydraulic action from my master cylinder, so the dealer will replace that next week.  As I mentioned my wife's bike works as expected.  If after replacing the master cylinder it is the same I will take a "flyer" and replace the clutch, which has 45k on it, I know it is not much but it is worth a shot. 

Thanks for the reply,
David

[Twolanerider]

I did get it to work when the bike was cold.  It was very consistent for about a minute and worked great.  As you can see from the picture I may not be getting all of the hydraulic action from my master cylinder, so the dealer will replace that next week.  As I mentioned my wife's bike works as expected.  If after replacing the master cylinder it is the same I will take a "flyer" and replace the clutch, which has 45k on it, I know it is not much but it is worth a shot. 

Thanks for the reply,
David

Not that you may not need new clutch plates but think just a moment about the process.  If you're working from Jerry's suggestion that the clutch may be dragging (for whatever reason) a new set of plates will be thicker than what you've got now.  Whatever is causing them to drag now will still be there and the potential drag will only be worse with new thicker plates.

[dlg]

Twolanerider, you make perfect sense!!  This may seem strange but I am hoping they are warped do to heat.  This could be one of the problems. 

Thanks,
David

[Twolanerider]

Twolanerider, you make perfect sense!!  This may seem strange but I am hoping they are warped do to heat.  This could be one of the problems. 

Thanks,
David

Certainly can never pre-judge what you might find so it doesn't hurt to take a look.  While in there and before disassembling the clutch itself be sure and use a feeler gauge to measure the actual travel of the clutch.  It's not an unknown problem to find a little less travel than the factory specs there.  You're looking for at least .065".

[dlg]

As you can see from the pictures my wife bike releases more then my bike.  I think the control change will resolve this.

[dlg]

My bike

[Twolanerider]

With .073" travel you're above Mother Harley's spec to have released the clutch.  More travel, if you can get it, obviously will not hurt your cause so there's nothing lost in the effort.  Will be interested in seeing how this one plays out.

You'd written the cylinder will be replaced under warranty.  Since there is full travel and it's apparently bleeding out ok what rationale is being used for the warranty repair?

[dlg]

Hi Twolanerider,

        Three pictures up you can see the bearing seized at the end of the lever and caused the grove damage.  What I cannot post because it is too big is a video of the lever action.  I can move the lever about a 1/4 inch before the hydraulic is actuated, so they are replacing the master cylinder based on the damage and the lever video.  So I am losing some travel based on the two pictures above.  I agree with you that .73 is above the spec, but because of the reverse gear I need it to be as much as I can get, so if I can get it to the same or more distance as me wife's bike then the transmission will not grind with putting it in reverse.  Also I have been noticing that the bike does creep forward when in gear and the clutch is in.  I put in the reverse because I cannot more the bike back with it in gear and clutch pulled in, if the clutch worked properly, i probably would not have put in the new gear.

David

[Twolanerider]

Hi Twolanerider,

        Three pictures up you can see the bearing seized at the end of the lever and caused the grove damage.  What I cannot post because it is too big is a video of the lever action.  I can move the lever about a 1/4 inch before the hydraulic is actuated, so they are replacing the master cylinder based on the damage and the lever video.  So I am losing some travel based on the two pictures above.  I agree with you that .73 is above the spec, but because of the reverse gear I need it to be as much as I can get, so if I can get it to the same or more distance as me wife's bike then the transmission will not grind with putting it in reverse.  Also I have been noticing that the bike does creep forward when in gear and the clutch is in.  I put in the reverse because I cannot more the bike back with it in gear and clutch pulled in, if the clutch worked properly, i probably would not have put in the new gear.

David

Chalk this up to the category of "things that might help but probably won't."  Just something else that's cheap enough to be worth trying.

Some of the aftermarket (Barnett writing about it most) have stressed that some fluids have more of a tendency to cause a little drag than do others.  I've read various explanations ranging from viscosity difference to a host of chemical properties differences.  The short of it is that, maybe, with the right/wrong discs mixed with the wrong fluids, the drag issue can be anywhere from more pronounced to even threatening lockup.

All that being at least a question it's a cheap thing to see if another primary fluid helps at all.  I personally use B&M Trick Shift and have seen it recommended by more than one aftermarket clutch supplier.  There are other good ATF's that are sound considerations too.

One last caveat for consideration.  As much as I prefer a good ATF for the clutch discs and as a primary fluid I know I'd at the very least want to do some more homework before using it in the newer bikes with the "new" compensator.  That comp assembly gives enough trouble as is I know I'd make my fluid choice based on supporting the compensator first and the clutch discs second.