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Author Topic: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?  (Read 1496 times)

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Liferjoesquid

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2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« on: September 03, 2019, 06:21:35 AM »

Howdy all! This is my first post and I’m hoping for some wise technical advice!

I have a 2001 FLTRSEI2 with 42k miles on it.  Voltage meter reads 12vdc at idle but gets up to 14vdc at 2800 rpm.  I replaced the stator as recommended by the local hd shop.  No change.  I’ve replaced the voltage regulator twice.  No change.

I stumbled on a charging system troubleshooting procedure on the J&P Cycle website which included a voltage regulator bridge rectifier diode check.  I’m including it along with my readings.  I’m looking for a sanity check from anyone who knows more than to see if this makes any sense.

1. Battery Test
The battery needs to be a fully charged battery and load-tested to ensure proper readings. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

Mine:  12.7 vdc

2. Charging System Voltage Test
Start motorcycle, measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

Mine: 14.1 vdc

3. Check Connections/Wires
Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to NO. 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

Mine:  nothing out of the ordinary noted

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check
Each of the following tests isolate the stator and rotor. If the AC Output test fails and Resistance Check and Stator IB Test pass, then the rotor is at fault (Pull primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:

Unplug the regulator plug from the stator.  Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.  The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specifications)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm.

Mine: 45 amp system:  22vdc@1000 rpm; 44vdc@2000rpm

Stator Resistance Check:

Switch your multi-meter to Ohm x 1 scale.  Probe each stator wire with meter leads and check resistance on meter.  Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms.

Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

Mine: 0.1 ohm

Stator IB test or Ground Check:

Switch your multi-meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi-meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.  If there is continuity to ground, your stator is shorted to ground.

Mine:  infinite resistance to ground.  I checked several good ground points to be sure.

5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:

This check is for testing the diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC current.
Switch multi-meter to Diode Scale.
Place your multi-meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi-meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.

Mine: infinite reading

Next, switch your multi-meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be infinite.

Mine:  0.525 vdc

With your meter on the same setting, place your multi-meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.  The meter should read typically around .5 volts.

Mine:  0.5 vdc

Next, switch your multi-meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be infinite.

Mine:  infinite

So my diode check measured the exact opposite of what should have been read per this procedure.  I checked to ensure my Fluke was set on diode mode and ensured the test cables were correctly in place.

The stator is fine yet I keep failing voltage regulators.  In my poor defense, I have been purchasing low dollar Chinese made crap.  I just don’t want to purchase a $150-$200 unit, have it do the same thing, then not be able to return it.

And to throw another wrinkle into this mess.  I stumbled across a thread that discussed the difference of the stock 1-phase charging system and the 3-phase systems.  In a nutshell the 1-phase systems drop to 12vdc at idle speed by design then pick up to 14 vdc when off idle.  This is apparently considered normal.  I have the 1-phase system

So now I feel like I’ve been chasing ghosts.  Is my regulator fried based on the J&P Cycle test or is it working properly?  That’s what I really want to know.
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chaos901

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2019, 12:20:59 PM »

That test #2 makes it appear that the charging system is working correctly.  At 2000 rpm the voltage should be right around 14.2 volts.  If it gets above either 15 or 16 for more than 5 seconds it will start to throw an "overvolt" code, since you did not mention any codes I suspect it is not.
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hawgzilla

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2019, 05:18:01 PM »

What makes you think there’s a problem?  If it’s the low volts at idle, what is your engine idle speed?  Sounds like the system is working just fine.
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grc

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2019, 05:54:13 PM »


The only test you ran that seems bad is the diode test, and those tend to be erroneous quite often on earlier systems.  If the rectifier wasn't working correctly, you wouldn't be getting the DC voltages you reported.  The rest of what you reported is normal for the model year.  What you see at idle is normal, once again for the model year, and it gives you a good reason to not let the bike sit idling for extensive periods of time.

Jerry
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2018_FLTRXSE

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2019, 06:15:03 PM »

This sounds very similar to what I was experiencing with my 2001 FLTRSEI2

(Except voltage... mine was stuck and discharging while running)

However, Mine also has a Hannigan sidecar with some added electrical goodies attached to it.

This being said, I have opted (in lieu of buying the cheap Chinese crap) the 3 phase components appropriate for 2006-2007.

Having gotten them from another member on the Board, here they are if you so choose to go there:

29943-06 Rotor

20087-06D Stator

3050 stator screws x4

74505-06 Regulator

74115-06 wire harness pigtail - replaces current power and ground leads to regulators.  It's just a cut and splice under the bike.

This is a 32 AMP to 50 AMP charging system upgrade.

This should eliminate the annoying voltage drop at idle. (I'm still waiting for all the parts for the swap.. dealers out here dont have squat in stock)
« Last Edit: September 04, 2019, 03:01:47 AM by 2018_FLTRXSE »
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Liferjoesquid

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2019, 01:48:10 AM »

That test #2 makes it appear that the charging system is working correctly.  At 2000 rpm the voltage should be right around 14.2 volts.  If it gets above either 15 or 16 for more than 5 seconds it will start to throw an "overvolt" code, since you did not mention any codes I suspect it is not.

Thanks Chaos.  When I first noticed this I wasn’t sure if normal or not. I assumed it was not and started troubleshooting.  I failed the very first rule of troubleshooting; understand what is normal and why it is normal. 
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Liferjoesquid

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2019, 01:50:04 AM »

What makes you think there’s a problem?  If it’s the low volts at idle, what is your engine idle speed?  Sounds like the system is working just fine.

After all I have read from you guys I’m inclined to believe the system is acting normally.  I simply didn’t understand the operation of the system and what is considered normal. Thanks for the assist!
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Liferjoesquid

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Re: 2001 FLTRSEI2 - voltage regulator fried or normal?
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2019, 01:53:53 AM »

The only test you ran that seems bad is the diode test, and those tend to be erroneous quite often on earlier systems.  If the rectifier wasn't working correctly, you wouldn't be getting the DC voltages you reported.  The rest of what you reported is normal for the model year.  What you see at idle is normal, once again for the model year, and it gives you a good reason to not let the bike sit idling for extensive periods of time.

Jerry

Thanks GRC.  What I really needed was an objective set of eyes.  Thanks for providing common sense approach.  I think I got so wrapped into the weeds with the data, I was losing the bigger picture.Thanks for putting my head back on straight.
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