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Custom Vehicle Discussions => CVO™ Road Glide Custom® => Topic started by: Phreakyz on December 14, 2018, 05:35:33 PM
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Anyone had any experience tying down a new CVO Road Glide?? We are getting ready to head to Florida for the holidays and I am trying to figure out a strategy. The fender design is different to accommodate the 21 inch wheel and it is almost flush to the forks, the new chin spoiler and the chopped engine guard cover up the frame and make it hard to locate any spots… A friend of mine recommended handlebar straps that cup over the grips but I’m afraid they might tear up the grips or damage the fly by wire sensor for the throttle.....
Any advice would be much appreciated!!!
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If I were strapping a 19 in I'd try to use the lower triple tree as my primary lashing point.
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Another.
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Lower triple trees being creative with soft ties first then tie downs. For the rear you can't beat the Yelvington rear bolt on brackets, They are black, blend in to the background and are so easy to use.
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When the dealer delivered my ‘19 they used the fairing support bracket. Up where it attaches to the frame, where a regular engine guard would attach. They put soft ties on each side and then hooked the straps to the soft ties.
Good Luck.
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Lower triple tree like Puzzled says is where tie downs are attached when the Road Glides are delivered to the dealer. I use soft ties on them then tie downs to the D rings in the floor, I then run a ratchet tie down through the rear wheel with one of those el cheapo fake lambs wool velcro shoulder belt pads wrapped around it to protect the finish on the wheel and attach to D rings flush mounted to the floor in my trailer. This combo works with lowers as well.
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I use soft straps around the frame under the passenger pegs and pull back and out for my primary set. As you can see in pics I tend to go with a little overkill when strapping my bikes in.
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We all have opinions, but the photo of the Gray bike above shows tie-downs going to the rear. Something as small as the front tire going flat, a front strap failing etc and then those rear straps will pull the bike straight out of the chock and the bike will fall over
Never pull to the rear without at least 4, two front and two center pulling forward. But even then not sure why any need to pull bike to rear.
The two he has at center are a great idea, they just need to be angled way more to front. Towed for a living for awhile, never personally had a failure, but I have seen above set-up fail, more than once.
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Thanks for all of the great pics and ideas. I will play around with it and see what I can do.
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B & W Biker Bar.....very easy. No straps needed. I've hauled my Ultra Classic from San Diego to Key West, Maggie Valley, Black Hills, Colorado and back to San Diego....much faster than straps and much more secure.....no straps and no wheel chock needed. Many full time RVers are using the Biker Bar.
See it here..... https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=114635.msg1456267#msg1456267
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B & W Biker Bar.....very easy. No straps needed. I've hauled my Ultra Classic from San Diego to Key West, Maggie Valley, Black Hills, Colorado and back to San Diego....much faster than straps and much more secure.....no straps and no wheel chock needed. Many full time RVers are using the Biker Bar.
See it here..... https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=114635.msg1456267#msg1456267
I actually considered that from the beginning however the '19 has an ABS line that runs outboard on the frame rail RT side. I thought that the clamps would not be able to grab without damaging the line so I did not gamble on the 377.00 purchase price.
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I thought the same as above as far as why pull backwards with rear strap. Then I saw why, pulling back helps guard against the bike shifting side to side. Also I never use S hooks. Always use spring loaded hooks that latch. I do mine the same as Puzzled. If it's good enough for his bike with all the time and money he puts into his creations it's good enough my bike .
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I use a Condore and soft straps on the forks just above the fender mount. I have hauled all my bikes with the straps above the fender from Michigan to Daytona for the past 30 years. That way you don't put any load on the front forks seals. JMO
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B & W Biker Bar.....very easy. No straps needed. I've hauled my Ultra Classic from San Diego to Key West, Maggie Valley, Black Hills, Colorado and back to San Diego....much faster than straps and much more secure.....no straps and no wheel chock needed. Many full time RVers are using the Biker Bar.
See it here..... https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=114635.msg1456267#msg1456267
In the last 2 years I have had the worst luck of anyone I've talked in transporting. 2 years ago coming back from Daytona with 2 bike in the trailer. I had a really good high dollar strap just break the ratchet mechanism and dump the fairing of my bike into my buddy's. didn't really hurt his but it did mine. So I bought a Biker bar and loved it. But they are not bullet proof. Coming back from MITM in Eureka springs was leaving a truck stop at 20mph and hit a pot hole that ruptured the trailer tire and broke the wheel. It broke the attachment on the bar and dumped the bike on its side. And yes it was on the bike correctly. So now its biker bar a few straps to hold the front tire and knoockerz on each side of the bike!
BigLew
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There is definitely more than one way to strap a bike down. It comes down to what works for you and what you are comfortable with.
I like lots of straps....
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Look at this load... I no longer transport that many. To much risk/work. 8-10 is plenty depending on what they are. Hotrod's take up some room. Stock bikes are much easier for me.
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Hey Mike how wide is that trailer?
BigLew
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Hey Mike how wide is that trailer?
BigLew
my 20', 28' and 38' all were/are 8.5' wide. I have a 7' wide trailer also and I wouldn't do that again. The wheels stick out regardless so I might as well get the box that wide also.
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38x8.5
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I actually considered that from the beginning however the '19 has an ABS line that runs outboard on the frame rail RT side. I thought that the clamps would not be able to grab without damaging the line so I did not gamble on the 377.00 purchase price.
wonder if you could slide the clamp in between the abs line and frame
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wonder if you could slide the clamp in between the abs line and frame
I am not sure but at over 350.00 bucks it was too much money for me to gamble and then have to try and sell if I couldn't get it to work. Would be a nice thing for the Mfg to research and let consumers know! Might have made them a sale!
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I may have gone overboard :) but here is the system that I came up with that worked for the 2400 mile trip there and back. I only had an old 6x10 enclosed trailer to work with so it was tight but worked out fine. 1. A good solid wheel chock mounted to the frame of the trailer. 2. Attached to the support behind the Fang where the standard engine guard would be (Thanks to Puzzled for the input) I used a second set of straps (Green Ones) to pull the primary strap inward to keep it away from the Fang Spoiler. 3. Straps on the rear curved floor board mount. To keep the rear from walking over bumps I lightly attached to the passenger footpegs. To add some stability from tipping I took the seats off and threaded forged 3/8-16 eyelets into the factory lift holes and strapped.
Pic 1
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Pic 2
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Pic 6
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I have tried everything. The solution that is far above any other is the Biker Bar. I have an 8.5 X 20 Trailer and tow 4 dressers without any worries. Eventually you will damage the fork seals or something else with straps. I know I used them for years and years. BUT The Biker Bare is so easy and quick and the bike rides on its suspension as it should. Also it is 2 minutes on and off.
https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/product/biker-bar
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I love my biker bar, but after what I went thru last year it’s. It enough. I still use a few stamps and a couple of knockers to keep it up right. Really depends on how far I’m pulling the bike
BigLew
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I have tried everything. The solution that is far above any other is the Biker Bar. I have an 8.5 X 20 Trailer and tow 4 dressers without any worries. Eventually you will damage the fork seals or something else with straps. I know I used them for years and years. BUT The Biker Bare is so easy and quick and the bike rides on its suspension as it should. Also it is 2 minutes on and off.
https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/product/biker-bar
He did state earlier that it isn't compatible with his bike due to a line running along the outside of the frame.
Glad you got it there and back. Looks like it worked out for ya just fine. I always run a strap through the front wheel around the wheel chock also but I don't see how to do that with that chock.
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looks like it will work with roadglide
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looks like it will work with roadglide
The one in the pix is an '18, the one in question is a '19. He had already responded to a question about it a while back.
I actually considered that from the beginning however the '19 has an ABS line that runs outboard on the frame rail RT side. I thought that the clamps would not be able to grab without damaging the line so I did not gamble on the 377.00 purchase price.
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looks like it will work with roadglide
That's an '18 I would think is the same. I am wondering if they pushed the line aside but that scares me a little. Would hate to damage the line! Would sure like to talk to whomever's bike that is? Here are some pics illustrating my concerns.
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That looks like the clutch main adjustment. If it is it is a cable. I would slip the Biker Bar under it, there should not be a problem.
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That looks like the clutch main adjustment. If it is it is a cable. I would slip the Biker Bar under it, there should not be a problem.
If it is a clutch line, it's hydraulic. No adjustment.
I agree with the slipping it up under it but then you may also run a chance of chaffing the line or rubbing through it unless you can get it totally out of the way.
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Something else I have always done to help support the bike and to take the load and flex out of the suspension is that I have a set of 4x6 blocks with some plywood screwed to the top that will just barely slide under the bike when it is vertical. When I start strapping the bike down it will tighten against the block so there is no load on the suspension and no movement in the bike to allow the straps to get loose when you hit bumps
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i've done that as well. i thought it worked quite well, but when i suggested it elsewhere, i got a lot of flack for it. so be it, still thought it worked well, and would do it again.
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Flack? It's the best thing to do to keep the bike secure!
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Ideally, you want the bike suspension to take up the bumps, just as if you are driving down the highway. Would you block the suspension while driving down the highway? So why the heck would you block it when tied down in a trailer? When you bottom out the suspension with the straps, you run the risk of blowing out fork seals and rear shock seals.
The best place to put your soft ties when tying down the front end is around the fork to fender mounts (I use lambs wool soft ties). When I crank down on the strap, all the load goes on the lower fork leg, and does not bottom out the suspension. The front end is held rock solid that way, and my bike rides happily down the road in the trailer.
I repeat, do not bottom out the suspension when hauling a motorcycle in a trailer. Bad things can & will happen!
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we weren't talking about bottoming out the suspension. we were putting a block under the frame and when you tighten the straps, it limits the amount the suspension can even compress. making the frame solid with the trailer as it were. if the suspension can't travel, then you don't run the risk of loosening straps over bumps, blowing seals, etc.
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I have an Aluma open trailer . The trailer frame is in the path of the mounting holes. Any thoughts. The biker bar techs said to NOT drill new holes
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I have an Aluma open trailer . The trailer frame is in the path of the mounting holes. Any thoughts. The biker bar techs said to NOT drill new holes
I mounted a quick detach bar for my Wheeldock on my Aluma and just use it. Yes I drilled holes in the trailer but I'd need to get under it to see what I did under there if anything for more support. The pix I have is too big for the forum. I'll have to resize it.
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I have an Aluma open trailer . The trailer frame is in the path of the mounting holes. Any thoughts. The biker bar techs said to NOT drill new holes
Maybe longer bolts
BigLew
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I use a Condor chock. I run a strap around the bottom of the fork by the brake caliper. One on each side. I then do a set by the passenger pegs or the frame area. I believe Condor even had a video of where they recommended, which is what I follow pretty much. I didn't have a problem with my Vulcan, Sportster, 2 Street Glides. I haven't done it with my 19' CVO Road Glide, but I don't imagine it being an issue.
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I use a Condor chock. I run a strap around the bottom of the fork by the brake caliper. One on each side. I then do a set by the passenger pegs or the frame area. I believe Condor even had a video of where they recommended, which is what I follow pretty much. I didn't have a problem with my Vulcan, Sportster, 2 Street Glides. I haven't done it with my 19' CVO Road Glide, but I don't imagine it being an issue.
I use a condor too...good advice, I’ll try it