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Custom Vehicle Discussions => CVO™ Road Glide Custom® => Topic started by: Powermaker on April 03, 2019, 12:07:30 PM
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Anyone used the B & W Biker Bar with a '19 Road Glide? Read that there may be issues with the abs line running along the frame and wanted to see if anyone had any first hand experience.
Thanks
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I am interested in this as well.
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If you do use one, in a wood floor trailer, you MUST do major reinforcement of the frame/supports under the floor of the trailer. This unit puts the complete weight of the bike on one small area of the trailer floor. If you bolt it to only the plywood, any significant impact will easily rip it from the floor and the bike will go flying.
I did see one at Bikeweek this year where the fellow had added two extra 1.5 tubular crossmembers under where the unit was bolted. Seemed pretty safe this way. Otherwise very scary proposition.
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If I go this route, it will definitely be anchored to the steel structure underneath.
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If you do use one, in a wood floor trailer, you MUST do major reinforcement of the frame/supports under the floor of the trailer. This unit puts the complete weight of the bike on one small area of the trailer floor. If you bolt it to only the plywood, any significant impact will easily rip it from the floor and the bike will go flying.
I did see one at Bikeweek this year where the fellow had added two extra 1.5 tubular crossmembers under where the unit was bolted. Seemed pretty safe this way. Otherwise very scary proposition.
I have not done any reinforcement of the plywood floor in my toyhauler and I've covered 8k miles and ocean to ocean twice with my bike mounted to the Biker Bar. The Biker Bar comes with two steel plates 1/4"x3"x4" that the bar mounts to (see the pics that I just took). I'm just not sure how you'd rip those steel plates through any plywood? My bike has ridden more than 10k miles mounted to that Biker Bar since I went full time RVing 18 months ago and no issues. Go to the RV full timers facebook groups (I'm on those groups more than I'm here) and I've not read of one negative comment about the Biker Bar. I'm sure that somebody must have a negative comment but they would be far and few between and very hard to find.
Powermaker....to answer your question....with my 2013 CVO Ultra Classic I simply rolled the ABS brake line towards the top of the frame (above the clamps). The clamp doesn't go all the way to the top or bottom of the frame, it's more like this.... (O on the left and like this on the right O) ......the O being the frame and the parenthesis being the clamp. I've looked at others at the Grand Design RV Rally that also have the Biker Bar and they've all done the same. Pushed the brake line up (above the clamp) and it has stayed there.
I hope this helps.
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Powermaker if you have a question about that brake line, you can call B&W and talk with them about it. But to my knowledge, the brake line on your bike follows that frame the same place it does on older models that also have ABS brakes (my 2013 CVO Ultra Classic).
I will say that most people do not trailer their bikes and on as varied terrains as full time RVers do. I've been to three different Grand Design RV Rallies here in the west and many Momentum Owners (Grand Designs toyhauler line) own Harleys and use this same Bike Bar and a few are CVOs. One of those guys was another Moderator on this forum, Don Davidson (exact same model as I have) and he's also traveled coast to coast with his CVO Street Glide in the back.
Here's a close up the steel plates. You will get two of these when you buy the biker bar. They're pre-drilled and the 5/8" nut is already welded on the plate.
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Locked and loaded....
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Thanks for the replies. Love that momentum. I wouldn't have given it another thought, but read a thread on one of these forums about the 2019 road glide cvo's having an issue clearing the biker bar mount. Thanks for the close up pics also, that's something you can't see in any of the video ads i've watched.
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We all have opinions, Maybe because I ran a tow company and saw so many towing disasters over the years it makes me more gunshy. But I wouldn't tow at all with the biker bar system bolted in like JCZ's is. To scary, so many bad things can happen if the load comes loose, a 900# motorcycle flying around will destroy everything it comes in contact with which would be very bad inside a ToyHauler. A couple pieces of steel and a few bolts or a small welding job would make this so much better and safer.
Also, just because someone is doing something does not make it right, or wrong. Just I wouldn't use one like they are.
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At first I was thinking there was no under plates. I wouldn't ever do that. The plates it comes with could be a bit bigger if I was only bolting to 1/2" - 3/4" plywood. Definitely better than just washers.
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At first I was thinking there was no under plates. I wouldn't ever do that. The plates it comes with could be a bit bigger if I was only bolting to 1/2" - 3/4" plywood. Definitely better than just washers.
My guess is that who ever CVODON was talking about that pulled loose through the plywood did not use the 1/4" steel plates that come with the bar. Then they may pull loose from the plywood. But there is no way these plates of this size are going to pull through plywood.....not even 1/4" plywood. It would take much, much more than a 800 or 900 lb. motorcycle.
The other advantage is that the weight is straight up and down and when locked in it's solid mounted to the trailer chassis (no shock suspension or lean angle to pull on the mount).....it's mounted as one with the chassis. That is, if your trailer floor is mounted securely to the trailer chassis. In my photos you can see the steel cross beams of my RV, under the floor. It's not going anywhere. If you have a Harbor Freight Tools trailer (or some other cheap trailer) you might want to reinforce the mount to the frame by welding additional supports.
By the way.....in the photos I posted above you will notice that the Biker Bar is mounted right above one of the steel cross beams of my trailer chassis. If that floor pulls loose I have a lot bigger problems than the floor of my toyhauler or the bike to worry about.
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Some pics of my experience with the Biker Bar.....
On top of the Colorado Rockies, Hoosier Pass 11,542'....
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Daytona Beach, Fl....
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At the Mexico boarder in San Diego....
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In the Black Hills of South Dakota....
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In Maggie Valley, NC....
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Back to the opinions which we all have. I disagree with JCZ strongly. But then I have no dog in this hunt actually. I would never buy a biker bar and will continue to tie mine down to E-Track that is run from front to back of the trailer and bolted/welded to the trailer frame not the plywood.
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With all the other full timer RVers and snowbirders in Quartzsite, Az. in the winter.... (there would be a lot of Biker Bars in all of these units)...
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Back to the opinions which we all have. I disagree with JCZ strongly. But then I have no dog in this hunt actually. I would never buy a biker bar and will continue to tie mine down to E-Track that is run from front to back of the trailer and bolted/welded to the trailer frame not the plywood.
That's true....we all have an opinion. However, mine is based on real world personal experience and not something imagined. The Biker Bar works and works very well. Nothing wrong with E-track when it's installed correctly....just that Biker Bar is much faster, easier and more secure than using straps and I speak from personal experience with both. Jusayinzall.
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:worthless:
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:worthless:
LOL.....Years ago I was constantly posting that on this forum.
There are lots of photos on this forum but here's a link to a few.....
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=111630.msg1425466#msg1425466
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=79634.msg1420629#msg1420629
This guy is living proof of the dangers of using straps (and now uses the Biker Bar).....also other interesting posts in this thread...
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=112475.msg1434436#msg1434436
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LOL.....Years ago I was constantly posting that on this forum.
There are lots of photos on this forum but here's a link to a few.....
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=111630.msg1425466#msg1425466
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=79634.msg1420629#msg1420629
This guy is living proof of the dangers of using straps (and now uses the Biker Bar).....also other interesting posts in this thread...
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=112475.msg1434436#msg1434436
But do you remember what happened with his BB? Hit that big pothole, blew the tire after the trailer went airborne and when it came down, it straightened out one side of the clamp on the BB.
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Just ordered it, looked under my low hauler enclosed mc trailer and it has already been reinforced with metal when the original owner installed wheel chocks. Going to make my job a little easier.
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Just ordered it, looked under my low hauler enclosed mc trailer and it has already been reinforced with metal when the original owner installed wheel chocks. Going to make my job a little easier.
where did u order from I see them on ebay 344 is that a fair price thanks terry
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where did u order from I see them on ebay 344 is that a fair price thanks terry
I started to order from them for the $344, but they wanted to charge me $20 more for tax even though I didn't live in Maryland where it said they were from. I ended up buying from the seller from Tennessee for $349, no tax, and free shipping.
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I started to order from them for the $344, but they wanted to charge me $20 more for tax even though I didn't live in Maryland where it said they were from. I ended up buying from the seller from Tennessee for $349, no tax, and free shipping.
thanks
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Guys you're ordering these on the net....just want to suggest reading the fine print. There are different models of bars for different models of Harley. I know there's one for "touring models" and one for "sportster" models but beyond that, I'm not sure (ie. is there a model for Dynas, Softails, etc.?). Just want to bring this to your attention as I've heard about others ordering the wrong bar. :2vrolijk_21:
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Got the one for the Harley touring!