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[Rimjam]

Had the outer fairing off the SERG for a little turn signal upgrade.  Almost ready to reinstall it when I decided to wipe accumulated dust off the inside with a cotton cloth. I was wiping gently when I heard a 'pop' & saw a small piece of plastic go flying. Lower right hand mounting tab that the screw screws in to had broken off almost flush with the inside of the outer fairing.  Tried Super Glue  -  would not even begin to stick.  Anyone have similar problem?  What was the solution?

[Chains]

Use JB Weld. Clean area you are binding to and hit lightly with sandpaper. Let it set up for a day or so and you should be good to go.

[Twolanerider]

Use JB Weld. Clean area you are binding to and hit lightly with sandpaper. Let it set up for a day or so and you should be good to go.

Yeap. Been there an survived that no problem.  Youll be fine.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Not that it's an issue in this case, but I would like to share a tip here.

Our company is big in surface treating plastic parts, bottles, auto dashboards etc.

See our website at www.lectrotreat.com

Anyway, when it comes to adhesion of paints, glues, silicones, foam etc, using a surface treater will give you better sticking of your glue to the part.  As an example, if you take a felt marker and mark a line on a Tide bottle or any other household bottle, the maker will most of the time just wipe off with little left on the bottle.  Run the bottle through a surface treater and you will never get the ink off.

So how does that relate to us in our garage???  Our surface treaters are electric and we either create a corona discharge or a high voltage open air plasma discharge.  But the other used process is a Flamer.  No comment...

A flamer is an open air gas flame in a controlled length that when the plastic part is run under the flame, the blue part of the flame, it raises the surface tension of the plastic just like our electrical systems do.  Most plastic we deal with is around 30 to 38 dyne.  Dyne value is used to measure the surface tension.  When HDPE, oil bottles - Tide bottles - etc, is run through a flamer it raises the surface tension from 32 dyne up to water wet at 72 dyne.  Basically the Water Wet test is dunk the bottle in water and if it wets out, or no beading up of the water, it's water wet.  That is the opposite of what wax does to our bikes and cars.  Wax lowers the surface tension and water want to bead up or repel from the plastic.  We have some information on our website that may be of interest to some of you.

So in a situation like the broken shoulder for a fairing screw, if you can quickly run a butane torch over the part without over heating it, it will take to the glue a bit better.  But doing this by hand is somewhat subjective at best.  But I've done it several times at home to improve gluing plastic parts together.  Just practice on a sample part before you do the real part.  It will improve your repair.

Thanks for listening, or reading in this case...

[BigLew]

Thanks for the shared knowledge Dan.

BigLew

[CVODON]

Don is correct JB will work, but the repair of damaged front bumper covers, headlamp mounting tabs, resin core supports on the newer cars has created a totally updated industry of repair chemicals. I suggest you check with 3M or your local auto collision refinish supply store and see if a product does not exist that is the same composition as the fairing and will probably repair it better than new.
Just sayin, you can put a tab back on a bumper cover that is as strong or stronger than a new one with 3M's products and I am sure others exist that are at least equal.

[Twolanerider]

Not that it's an issue in this case, but I would like to share a tip here.

Our company is big in surface treating plastic parts, bottles, auto dashboards etc.

See our website at www.lectrotreat.com

Anyway, when it comes to adhesion of paints, glues, silicones, foam etc, using a surface treater will give you better sticking of your glue to the part.  As an example, if you take a felt marker and mark a line on a Tide bottle or any other household bottle, the maker will most of the time just wipe off with little left on the bottle.  Run the bottle through a surface treater and you will never get the ink off.

So how does that relate to us in our garage???  Our surface treaters are electric and we either create a corona discharge or a high voltage open air plasma discharge.  But the other used process is a Flamer.  No comment...

A flamer is an open air gas flame in a controlled length that when the plastic part is run under the flame, the blue part of the flame, it raises the surface tension of the plastic just like our electrical systems do.  Most plastic we deal with is around 30 to 38 dyne.  Dyne value is used to measure the surface tension.  When HDPE, oil bottles - Tide bottles - etc, is run through a flamer it raises the surface tension from 32 dyne up to water wet at 72 dyne.  Basically the Water Wet test is dunk the bottle in water and if it wets out, or no beading up of the water, it's water wet.  That is the opposite of what wax does to our bikes and cars.  Wax lowers the surface tension and water want to bead up or repel from the plastic.  We have some information on our website that may be of interest to some of you.

So in a situation like the broken shoulder for a fairing screw, if you can quickly run a butane torch over the part without over heating it, it will take to the glue a bit better.  But doing this by hand is somewhat subjective at best.  But I've done it several times at home to improve gluing plastic parts together.  Just practice on a sample part before you do the real part.  It will improve your repair.

Thanks for listening, or reading in this case...

Dan, I know this is better; and in a lot of cases I'll do it.  But whenever I've thought about it as an adhesion promoter when dealing with a busted tab on a fairing my special parts crawled up behind my belly button in fear of working with a flame that close to the edge of the "good" side of the painted fairing.  I'm just not that brave.... 

[Dan_Lockwood]

Dan, I know this is better; and in a lot of cases I'll do it.  But whenever I've thought about it as an adhesion promoter when dealing with a busted tab on a fairing my special parts crawled up behind my belly button in fear of working with a flame that close to the edge of the "good" side of the painted fairing.  I'm just not that brave.... 

Don, I did say practice first... 

[Twolanerider]

Don, I did say practice first... 

Oh yeah (on someone else's fairing  ).

[deldago]

What you need is a good old fashioned layer of asbestos to protect the paint before putting the flame to it!

[Rimjam]

Decided to investigate latest repair methods for fairing material as suggested above by CVODON.  One of the shop guys where I work is a decent body/paint man, showed him my problem with the broken fairing screw hole & he immediately suggested a 3M product #08115 that's just for this kind of plastic (ABS, HDPS?).  Let him give it a try, I'm impressed with the results, I'll try to attach photos.

[Chains]

Hope it does the job and without heat.  Had a body shop apply heat on my 1996 Ultra, scrapped the parts when the plastic warped. Not a fan of products requiring heat.

[Rimjam]

Here's the repair.  Seems to be strong.  I'll let you guys know how it holds up.

[CVODON]

To my knowledge "heat" has not been a part of plastic/composite repair ever, or for at least the last 25 years. If a body shop used actual heat on this type repair in that period they were out of skills before they started.
I feel the repair, if done correctly, using the 3M product is at least as strong as original if not more so.