Topic: Garage door opener problem (Read 4154 times)

ima29 · « **on:** April 06, 2009, 02:33:52 PM »

I just tried to program the garage door opener on my 07 CUSE and was not getting any indication of a reading by the receiver (led light). So after some searching on here for potential problems I have removed fairing and checked for obvious. Anyway I have done the "I want spots all the time" modification and have found that by returning to original the opener works. Does anyone know how to cure this to enable spots on high beam and the garage door opener functioning?

brhulen · « **Reply #1 on:** April 08, 2009, 02:21:01 PM »

Just a thought here. When you rewire or modify to having passing lamps on all the time are you losing your power source for the opener? Sounds as though that might be the problem. Dig a little deeper for the power source and I'll bet you'll solve the problem.

I'm in Delta Junction and we're talking about putting a ride together to run down to Skagway later on this summer. Would you or others be interested? Probably looking at a six day trip.

ima29 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 08, 2009, 07:28:09 PM »

I wished it was that easy but it seems to be the opposite. The power interuption to the fog lights when you go from low beam to high beam seems to activate the transmitter. Anyways, looking for suggestions.

Trip to Skagway sounds good as long it is not before the 4th of July. Have kings to catch and fish wheel in Chitna to contend to. Let me know, Kelly

arcticdude · « **Reply #3 on:** April 08, 2009, 10:11:54 PM »

You need to get your spot power from your unused fender tip light wire. It's tied into the ehadlight harness as a dead end. Everything works that way. I did mine in 07 when I got mine, so I may not be remembering the exact location of the power wire. You don't have to get into the high/low side of things at all.

ima29 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 09, 2009, 12:22:54 AM »

That is where i am getting power, blue fender tip lighting wire. The opener will not work if I am spliced to the yellow fog lamp wire either in line or only to the dash side of the yellow. I even tried taking power from the lighter knowing it should not matter and I was right. HELP!!!

arcticdude · « **Reply #5 on:** April 09, 2009, 10:47:26 AM »

Which side of the triple tree are you on? Meaning- standing looking at the front of the bike, is the splice on the left or right? I'm thinking the 06 was on the left, but the 07 was on the right. I made a jumper wire to go from the fender tip wire to the input on the deustch connector for the driving lights. Simply removed the original feed and inserted the new feed. Taped the original out of the way, so I can go back to OEM and any time with minimal work. Depending on what ends up happening for the weekend, I maybe able to get into mine to see exactly where I did my work. I've got the tighten the steering bearings anyway, just been putting it off.

ima29 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 09, 2009, 11:37:11 AM »

Sounds like the same thing I have done. The yellow wire and connector are on the left side if you are sitting on the scoot or right if looking from front to rear. Same here I ran a jumper from the blue wire and removed wire from deutch connector. I have tried it with blue just to the removed yellow (dash side) and have also tried with an additional jumper from the blue/ yellow connection back into the deutch connector. The fog lights happily work and stay on either way. The opener will not work unless returned to original. I have put it back to original for the time being as this time of year in Alaska you want a functioning garage door opener. Roads just dried up this week!!! I would just use one of my other transmitters but they are the old Stanley kind, huge and klunky, and unable to upgrade to one of the small units. About ready to go and buy a couple of new garage door opener complete units just to get the cute little key sized transmitters, hah #*^+.

ima29 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 09, 2009, 11:44:10 AM »

Arcticdude,
I just reread your post and may see possible problem if you can confirm. Are you connected with jumper from blue wire to the dash side of the yellow wire or dash side of duetch connector? I don't think the fog lights will be on all the time if you are connected into the connector. I believe the power needs to be ran to dash side of yellow. Thanks for looking.

arcticdude · « **Reply #8 on:** April 09, 2009, 02:43:32 PM »

IIRC, I found the "front" portion of the connector was the feed, while the "back" just went to the switch and I do seem to recall it was a yellow wire, with maybe a red trace onit. So I pulled the wire from the "front" and inserted my new power feed there. The original feed was only hot when the low beams were on.

Does your hi beam work correctly when you're got your setup done for the fogs? It certainly sounds like you're pulling the feed off the hi beam, thus killing it. I agree, this time of year, you probably want the garage door to work more than you want the fog lights! Where in the Great State are you?

ima29 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 09, 2009, 03:55:06 PM »

I'm going to recheck this thing this weekend as it looks like ok ridin weather till then and I get to watch my new grandaughter then, got to get them used to the garage noises early!! Sounds like we have done the same except you are into the front side of connector with your jumper from the blue wire. Certainly gave me something to look at, thanks.

I am located in Wasilla/ Palmer area about 40 miles north of Anchorage.

arcticdude · « **Reply #10 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:40:39 AM »

Man, have you guys seen some growth in that area!!! I was there in 94 and back again in 02. The Palmer-Wasilla highway intersection was "in the middle of no where" in 94 and by 02 it was like being in the lower 48!!! Fast food joints and banks on every corner and traffic backed up a couple of miles!! I couldn't freakin believe it.

ima29 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 10, 2009, 10:24:09 AM »

Yes, and in '89 we only had 1 flashing light all through Wasilla area. We now have 7 stop lights, 3 overpasses and a Vice President nominee!!! We have lived here in the valley since '79 so have seen quite a few changes, most for the good. What I don't like is the combat fishing now and shortened hunting seasons. The hunting and fishing are still both good but have to get up earlier and work at it a bit more.

hunter · « **Reply #12 on:** April 10, 2009, 11:04:53 AM »

I made my own garage door opener and hocked it up to activate when I press left turn signal. works great and only cost me $20 for a set of male/female connector. I can plug and unplug it in seconds without removing any parts of head light. just reach from behind the fork and take it out.

arcticdude · « **Reply #13 on:** April 10, 2009, 04:58:21 PM »

Quote from: ima29 on April 10, 2009, 10:24:09 AM

Yes, and in '89 we only had 1 flashing light all through Wasilla area. We now have 7 stop lights, 3 overpasses and a Vice President nominee!!! We have lived here in the valley since '79 so have seen quite a few changes, most for the good. What I don't like is the combat fishing now and shortened hunting seasons. The hunting and fishing are still both good but have to get up earlier and work at it a bit more.

I'll agree the combat fishing ain't my cup of tea, but man that salmon is so tasty!! Sure beats the sh!t out of what we get down here!!!! In Oklahoma they're typically serving Atlantic salmon, which might as well be flounder compared to Alaskan. In 02, we were in Haines the opening day of crab season. Waiting for the boat to get us, having dinner in a waterfront restaurant, listening to nothing but whacking mallets. Still talk about the taste of those crabs to this day. Puts everything we get down here to shame. All we get are frozen crab legs. I don't even waste the water cooking them.

ima29 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 10, 2009, 06:01:34 PM »

You are probably familiar with the "Deadliest Catch" tv series. What we do is the "laziest catch". For our salmon meat haul we subsistence fish with a fish wheel. Ever see one? I agree with the crab. Nothing better than fresh. I'm not sure people know there are only 2 fisheries, 1 late spring in Southeast AK and the other more bountiful in the winter. A lot of the retail crab could be a year old or perhaps more.

ordlord11 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 11, 2009, 12:45:59 PM »

has anyone had any problems programming the 09 Garage Door Opener?

arcticdude · « **Reply #16 on:** April 15, 2009, 07:50:50 PM »

ima29,

I got mine apart so I can tell you exactly what I've got, which works for my. There is a 2 wire (blue & black) black connector on the rt side as you're looking at the front of the bike, fairing off. The blue wire is your power feed. I ran a wire from there to a 12 or 16 pin connector under the left corner of my radio. There are a couple similar connectors there and this one is the most hidden one. There's nothing back behind it. To help differentiate, there are 2 orange wires and a yellow wire on one end and a orange and a red wire on the other end. It's the yellow wire that I removed from the connector and replaced with the feed from the blue wire. That should do it for you. Hope this helps!

arcticdude · « **Reply #17 on:** April 15, 2009, 09:48:48 PM »

To clarify, I pulled the yellow wire from the front side of the deustch connector and plugged in the feed from the blue wire. THe rear of the connector goes into the dash switches.

Whne you need to tighten steering bearings, it's not that bad a job. I just did mine since I last posted. You can pull the radio- 4 allen screws and several electrical connectors. The head bearing nut is right there. There's a couple of locking tabs to keep the nut from turning, only one of mine was used. I think if I had a thin enough wrench (and it wouldn't have to be that thin), I could do the job without removing the radio. Just disconnect a few of the radio electric connections to make access easier. I only had the front fairing off, had dinner, drank a few brews and listened to some classic rock. It's all back under it's cover and tools put up. Relatively simple.

JohnT. · « **Reply #18 on:** April 16, 2009, 09:55:04 AM »

Never had an issue with mine. Works great, have had my riding buddys amused as to how I can open my garage as I pull up to the house before. Love it!

ima29 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 16, 2009, 03:17:09 PM »

Thanks for the info Arcticdude. pretty sure that is what I have but perhaps on other side of connector. Good idea to check head bearings. Where they loose and how many miles do you have?

arcticdude · « **Reply #20 on:** April 16, 2009, 03:26:42 PM »

Mine were severely loose and had been for some time. I've got maybe 15k on her. It was bad enough that using the front brake caused a thump and movement in the handlebars. I expect that the races didn't get seated when she was put together, so a little riding fully seated the bearings and gave me a ton of play in the bearings.

There's no reason for the garage door opener to be affected by the spot mod. If you've done what everybody else has done, I'd be looking to see that the opener is connected to where it should be. That may turn out to be the problem. We've seen several bikes with the seats hooked to the accesory plug and not the correct seat plug. Maybe that's what's going on here.

ima29 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 16, 2009, 04:06:55 PM »

More food for thought. Next time in there I'll check wiring diagram also. It's like it should work connected the way I have it. Interesting about neck bearings as I have been on the Alcan twice now and didn't notice anything going on and they seem to be tight when sitting on jack. I'll have to put a wrench to them to make certain. I have about 18k miles now. Have new concerns now. Have to gusset saddlebag support brackets as they bent forward which is weird. Forward pressure on hitch from trailer. I suppose I'll have to slow to 70mph through the whoops on the Alcan this summer, ha!!!

arcticdude · « **Reply #22 on:** April 16, 2009, 05:26:51 PM »

ima,
You just need to check the "fall away" for your neck bearings. There should be a slight resistance as you start to turn the bars, but VERY slight. I think it's like 2 or 3 lbs to start the bars moving when you pull on the end. You should find the exact measurement in your manual.

That's pretty normal with your fender supports and trailer. Everytime you have the tongue a little heavy, it's pushing down (and forward) on the fender. Did the same on my 01. I just drink my beer faster now, so the cooler gets lighter faster. Takes the weight off the fender! Those whoops are killer, aren't they! Have you gotten her airborne yet? When we rode it, it was raining so we had to deal with the calcium carbonate (I think) that they use to control dust. Man, that stuff was better than any grease I know of!! One time, the rear wheel started sliding to the right and it didn't stop until it went off the edge, where the saddlebag caught it from going any further. She tried to stop next to me, but slid about 75 feet on down the road. There was an inch of stuff stuck to her front wheel! It sure made for "fun" riding!!! I wouldn't have missed it for the world.

ima29 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 16, 2009, 09:34:17 PM »

Always a story/ adventure each time you ride the Alcan. My first time having electric brakes last summer and when going through Stone Mountain area we came around a turn doing about 85 and found 4 sheep on the road. No time to do much but hit the brakes and aim for a lamb instead of the 1 ewe. Had lamb butt hair at the end of 1 highway peg. They seemed to be OK as were running like h#**. The brakes worked. Had all 4 locked up with blue smoke trailing. I think we went by the sheep doing 40-50 with the brakes on!!

I have never had an issue with the saddlebag support brackets but this new trailer is heavy. We were on a 8 week trip. Have to say I love the trailer and scooter seems to be fine pulling her. Have cammed for more torque and dropped 2 teeth on the primary. Great trailer pulling power. Stock ultras seem to be amazed as my wife and I with 600lb trailer pull away from them on the hills at or above 70 mph.

arcticdude · « **Reply #24 on:** April 17, 2009, 12:49:59 PM »

600#?

You'd better lighten it up some. The rear tire won't hold up. I had a friend on his way to the 105th in Milwaukee pulling his trailer (which wasn't as heavy as yours) had the rear tire go at 70 or so. Slapped him down on his right side. Spend like 4 wks in ICU. It wasn't pretty. Tell the wife to stop packing all that chit!! She only needs 2 pair of underwear, 1 hooter holder, 2 t-shirts and a pair of jeans per week. Anything else is overkill!!

arcticdude · « **Reply #25 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:03:43 PM »

ima,

Well I really was off on the head bearing tightening on ours. I did the original tighten the large nut under the radio and went out for a ride. Couldn't tell a difference. So I got looking at the damn thing and turns out there is a nut UNDER the upper triple clamp that is the bearing adjuster nut. It's a star nut and you are supposed to fashion a "wrench" out of 16" of drill stock to then drive the thing clockwise to tighten or counterclockwise to loosen. It's fairly easy to break off a tab on the star nut, so you have to be careful with what you use to tighten it. Of course, it doesn't spin easily! So you may break off a tab anyway! If you turn the fork to the right and look up under the upper triple clamp, you'll see the tabs of the star nut slightly sticking out. You just loosen the large nut under the radio and tighten the star nut, then tighten the large nut and put the fairing back. Pain in the a$$ easy!

ima29 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 27, 2009, 01:37:54 PM »

I still have not gotten into the fairing again to check things out. Waiting for some powder coating to get done and hope to get in there on Thursday. I see what you mean about the star nut. Finally opened the service manual and now know what you are talking about. I'll let you know how it goes as I checked the play and needs tightening. Hopefully off to the peninsula this weekend for camping and soccer games if weather permits.

arcticdude · « **Reply #27 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:21:25 PM »

The other thing I forgot to mention was when you pull the radio, it's a rather tight fit between the metal chassis brackets. In sliding it out the first time, I hit the CD cover against the large wiring loom above the radio and knocked the hinge loose. The hinge does pop back in place, as it's just a straight piece of wire with a spring wrapped around it. The screws that hold the radio in place are allen, so you need a decent set of ball end allen wrenches, if you don't all ready have a set. You can do it with a normal set, but the back 2 screws will be a pain.

ima29 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 27, 2009, 05:57:39 PM »

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention in last post if you have ever actually read in the service manual on how to check if the steering bearings need adjustment. I got lost when I was reading if I'm to hold to the left or the right and how many times the forks actually swung. Seems kinda hokey to me. Seems like it has changed somewhere along the line. I believe it is hold to the left and let go and they should swing right, left and begin right again. Not enough swings and you are to tight, if they begin to go left again then you are still too loose.

arcticdude · « **Reply #29 on:** April 27, 2009, 06:30:41 PM »

That's it exactly. They should swing right, then back left and then just start right again. I couldn't see a difference, no matter which way I started, either letting them swing left first or right first. To tighten, you stick the "tool" up on the left side and push forward and to loosen, you stick the tool up on the right side and push forward. Since mine were loose, I only stayed on the left side. You can leave it just a touch loose, because when you tighten the large nut on top, it will tighten ever so slightly.

Author Topic: Garage door opener problem (Read 4154 times)