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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: BC Bawb on June 24, 2021, 11:12:21 AM
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bike shut off at lowered rpms while riding, fired right back up, but had to keep rpms above 900, or just quietly shut off again? Then noticed I’d lost dam speedo, Continued for rest of ride home. Recently replaced stock passing & headlight w/ LED’s? BUT I’ve ridden 30+ miles on a few separate dates after LEDs install before to this occurring ,Any suggestions, obviously I appreciate this, since manual has disappeared, :-X :oops:
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Speed sensor failure- or associated wiring. Turn signals probably don’t self cancel either.
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Hawgzilla,
Appreciate the reply, I will check the turn signal Tell tale” symptom ASAP! This has had me baffled, and of course frustrated. I’ll get back to you soon as I have something to report. Again, Thanks, Bob
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Greetings hawgzilla, I finally got the speed sensor in & replaced, TY So Much, it stopped the stall issue at low speed and got my Speedo back! But the ride that verified the solution of the aforementioned stalling/speedo loss, now I have a volt meter that runs high (14-18) and my oil press gauge stays almost pinned till I slow down at a light or other reason to almost or actually stop?I have oil, all lights work, so I'm back being a numbskull looking for guidance, If of course you have some. I am truly appreciative of the last nugget. Bike runs fine just gauges are acting outside the norm. Obviously I am short on any wrench knowledge, and caught off guard with this new gremlin, TY again, Bob
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Bob, check the battery with a voltmeter. See if the readings you report there are the same that's showing on the gauge.
If it's actually too high far and away the most common culprit is the voltage regulator. Regulators and stators and rotors can be (mostly) diagnosed on the bike. Check Cycle Electric's website for a pretty good diagnostic tutorial. Only tool you'll need is a multimeter with which you'll actually be checking for some AC rather than DC readings from the stator. Double check all the cables for tight, clean, etc. But if you've got overvoltage it's probably a regulator.
If the regulator is putting out too much that can lead to other issues. So you want to chase that gremlin sooner rather than later.
If your oil pressure gauge is showing a moving needle (i.e., not just stuck high) it's as likely to be sensor as it is gauge. You can mount a manual gauge and plumb an oil line to the sensor hole just to confirm what the actual oil pressure is. And that's never a bad idea. But the sensor is cheap and you've got to unscrew the old one either way. So it's not unheard of just to replace the damn thing and see if that solves the problem. If not try the temporary mechanical gauge to confirm good function or bad readings. If good function then pop the fairing and swap the gauge. FWIW I'd not chase any other electrical issue until the overvoltage problem was solved though. A bad regulator is enough to keep me from riding a bike until it's fixed. A battery being cooked right under your butt is kind of an unsettling thought.
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Hey TwoLane, I have been sorrowful late In replying, haven’t had any free minutes to follow your advice YET. But I will ASAP, I had forgotten to mention that just prior to my recent speed sensor problem,etc., I had installed LED Hawgworkz head & passing modules. They didn’t interfere with radio, so I neglected to mention that install, however it appears that my current issues are all electrical related, so Hmmmm., I will be looking for that trouble shooting video when daughter/ grandson’s give me a breather. ( covid all around, 2&4 & 32) Again no words to properly say THANKS, that is till we can tip a few back? Bob
Ps: I’ll do my best to be more timely in my responses, and appreciation for the advice from all you forum savvy contributors!
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So sorry to read about the sick family LT. Have known way too many this damn bug has got hold of. Hope the bike problems end up being relatively simple to sort out.
Here's a link to the charging system check out. They're all having you do the same thing and this one is as good as any. Yours would be the 32 amp option (if the rotor and stator are still stock parts).
https://www.jpcycles.com/countersteer/how-to/step-by-step-instructions-for-testing-your-harleys-charging-system