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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin' Eagle® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: PCC on December 28, 2004, 01:59:22 PM
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FOR ALL THOSE WHO INSTALL THESE BARS...PLEASE PLEASE HEED THE MANUFACTURER'S WARNING LABEL AND INSTALL A FULL LENGTH CLAMP!!! THEY WILL INDEED CRACK AND BREAK BETWEEN THE CLAMPS IF YOU DON'T. I HAVE SEEN TWO EXAMPLES OF THIS ON BARS IN RENO. I DON'T WANT TO SEE ANYONE GO DOWN BECAUSE THEIR HANDLEBARS BROKE IN HALF.
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I think PCC is referring to the top piece on the risers. Rather than use the two piece, use the one long piece.
I had this happen on a Heritage years ago and it's a strange feeling of insecurity when one side or the other, the bar comes right off in your hand at 80 mph. Heed the warning guys! [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
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Warning label mine had no warning label or instruction included in the box. You would think for $225 it would come with the fringin right clamp if it was supposed to be changed.
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Warning label mine had no warning label or instruction included in the box. You would think for $225 it would come with the fringin right clamp if it was supposed to be changed.
kind of like the MoCo....everything is ala carte.......seems to be a dangerous way of doing business
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That's interesting as mine didn't have any warning label either.
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I had a set break on a Pan Head chopper once. I was just lucky enough to have it happen as I was raising the bike to put up the kickstand.
I put a solid top clamp on the new bars and it stoped the torque twist between the risers.
I also put a solid top clamp my Roadking when I installed a set of Flanders Bars .
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Here was my solution but isn't right. The clamp pockets are not as deep on the full lenght one and the allen bolts stickup and hit bottom of the radio (front allen bolt) and the switch cover won't go on right (top hits rear allen bolts).
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This is a HD part #56170-83TA what has everyone else used [smiley=confused5.gif] this works but isn't right in my mind (just a good bandage till a good solution comes up).
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Am going to leave a message in the morning and ask what full lenght clamp they recommend that won't interfere with the radio or the switch cover. They say they will return calls just not open [smiley=confused5.gif].
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PCC thank you for mentioning the clamp (think I owe you a drink if we ever meet how about at street vibes) you may have saved a few lives with your observation of the stock clamps. Mobe thanks for posting the pictures so PCC could catch it. I think that is the greatest part of this site is that there is great wealth on knowledge and people willing to share it. THANK YOU ALL
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I was looking over on the Wild1 chubby bar site and found some interesting stuff about knock offs. Now I'm probably the only one here that didn't know what knock offs were. Actually I was expecting to find something else when I got there and was a little dissapointed. Then my wife explained what I was looking for was called knockERs! [smiley=grin2.gif] Oh well, after I got my nose to quit bleeding I read up on it and I need to check and see where my my dealer is getting my bars from. I told them I wanted Wild1 575 w/hyd.clutch. If they get them from Drag Spec.,Kuryakyn,or White Bros they are NOT from Wild1, they are Falsies! Opps, I mean knock offs, jippo junk. Artical uses better grammer. Has everyone purchased directly from wild1? If not you may check this out! I also saw they had some bar clamps and was wondering if the countersink holes are deeper so bolts won't hit as Magoo experienced. http://www.wild1inc.com/noknockoffs.html and http://www.wild1inc.com/accessories.html See Ya........JR [smiley=laugh.gif]
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J.Rud my bars came directly from wild 1, ordered them myself when the dealer was confused about double flats. And I to saw the full length clamp Wild 1 makes part#10104 but am waiting on an answer from Wild 1 before ordering and the clamp is $59.95 ouch that would make these almost $300.00 and they aren't that great.
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J.Rud my bars came directly from wild 1, ordered them myself when the dealer was confused about double flats.
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RRSTEVE-I would try to addjust stock bars 1st before buying new . can you get 2 inches foward or back with addjustment?-AK
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The stock bars cause my upper back to hurt between the shoulder blades after riding for several hours.
That almost exactly describes how the stock bars got to me. After awhile in the saddle it was right between the shoulders. In my case it was more on the left then the right. The angle of the stock bar's original installation already had it as close to me as it was going to get. After a bit of homework there seemed to be very few other options for the ElectraGlide; and none that seemed to match the geometry I was wanting/needing as much as did the 575s.
For what it's worth, at least in my case the bars made a real difference too. The discomfort between the shoulders hasn't shown up in some play afternoons that had me in the saddle for three or four hours and the wrist angle is a little more comfortable too.
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They are probably the best that I'm going to find I just wish they where a little taller. I'm 6'2" still a little lower than I would like but much better than the stock. My original problem was that my hands would go to sleep on me and that has not happened since I installed the bars.
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Just got a return phone call from a tech support guy at Wild 1 responding to my emailed questions about the clamp on the 575 bars. Here's what he said:
First off a recent order of bars they received were pushed through without stickers and that accounts for why some got them and some didn't. He went to explain, however, that the full length clamp is not a concern if the following is adhered to.
He said their problem with bars braking between the clamps stems not from road vibration but from stresses that accrue if a bike is straped down down by the handlebars (like while trailering the bike). He said that this stress will flex the bars between the risers and that this, combined with vibration while under this stress, is what will lead to the problem. Normal riding, however, will not. He also said the same applies to stock bars.
So, basically, when the warning sticker is applied it's a "cover all the bases" kind of thing so that bikes that are trailered won't have to worry about it. Apparently this stress problem can occur very very quickly in the above outlined circumstances.
If the bike isn't trailered you should be ok though. Even if the bike is trailered and you don't pull hard on the bars you should still be ok.
For what it's worth; given the guy's tone of voice and comfort with the facts and circumstances he was describing he didn't seem to be winging it and he felt comfortable with the facts as he was describing them. Based on this morning's phone call I'll still definitely eyeball the bars very closely whenever the fairing is off just to make sure. But I'll not be gutting everything immediately to do the job over again.
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I suggest that all of you play it safe, rather than be sorry. I never trailered my Heritage (the bike that this happened to me on) and the bars were only on there a few weeks. They tried telling me that I leaned on the bars to heavily or pulled on them too much. Please be safe guys, don't gamble with your life!
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I suggest that all of you play it safe, rather than be sorry.
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Well at least they give the same answer or we talked to the same person because I was told the same thing. Twolanerider the guys name wasn't John was it. Still doesn't solve the problem of the clamps hitting radio and the switch cover.
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Well at least they give the same answer or we talked to the same person because I was told the same thing.
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Well at least they give the same answer or we talked to the same person because I was told the same thing.
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No I didn't get an answer on the solution of the allen bolt hitting other than he said don't bother buying our clamp you don't need it use the stock ones(2 piece clamps) so I think I will buy a second HD clamp $15 and have my friend machine the pockets to the right depth and install it problem solved and its a full lenght clamp.
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I went ahead and ordered the HD one piece clamp and took it to a machine shop where I had the cast in spacer in front ground off and the pockets deepened by 0.20
I installed it last night and everything clears the radio nicely. Here is a photo of the finished clamp.
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Mobe, your fairing has been on and off so many times it's got to have more miles than the rest of the bike by now! By the way, did you ever find out anything on that back wheel tracking so far off center? I looked at the red bike later that evening and it was where'd you expect it to be; then I forgot to say anything to offer it up for comparison.
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Twolane: I noted the next time that I rode home from the HD shop and there are absolutely NO right hand turns. EVERY turn is left. I rode the B/B on the same path and the rear tire was identical to what you and I saw in the garage that day. I rode mine down the road for about 3 miles then pulled over and it is tracking right where it is supposed to. The B/B bike was in the center that day because it was trailered in, not ridden.
Actually the machined clamp was put on the B/B bike. I've had another one machined but am still too lazy to put it on.
By the way you have to grind the very front of the clamp off also, (not shown in the picture), so that it will clear the ignition switch panel. [smiley=earmuffs.gif]
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Twolane:
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Yesterday was indeed a nice day for putting on a few miles.
We went south through Seneca down to Noel and then took highway 90 all the way over to where it ends in Washburn.
Beautiful ride, and lots of curves.
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Received my bars today with both sides machined, warnings on both ends and in the middle that says "IMPORTANT: MUST USE A FULL / ONE PIECE TOP CLAMP TO SECURE HANDLEBARS TO RISERS. DON'T USE SEPERATE TOP CLAMPS, I.E. ON ROAD KINGS YOU MUST REPLACE THE TWO STOCK CLAMPS WITH A FULL CLAMP.
I will be using the one piece clamp and get it machined.
Thanks
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Advice a worth what you pay for it. Even from a manufacturer. I can tell you that I have seen their bars without top clamps crack on MULTIPLE occasions on bikes that have never been strapped down. SO if you're willing to bet your life on that guy's take....GO FOR IT!
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I had the dealer install the bars while rebuilding my bike, and the tech said he had to lenghten the control wires to the bars 3 inches (about 32 wires). I hadn't read anyone having to extend the wires. Does this sound right? He did run the wires inside the handlebars. Thanks
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I have put these bars on 2 seegs, an 04 and an 05 and did not have to lengthen the wires on either.......Mike
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Your mechanic that ran the wires was either lazy or you got jacked.
Mike
Thanks MFG, just reminded me that I got ripped off again, on my stainless steel cables I was told had to be replaced. Getting a worse and worse sense of fullfilment as the days go by. [smiley=nervous.gif]
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Call them up in your usually calm and persistant demeanor and question the bill and offer them the wonderful opportunity to reimburse you with product that you want not the stuff they thought that you wanted.
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Thanks MFG, just reminded me that I got ripped off again, on my stainless steel cables I was told had to be replaced.
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Brake lines have to be replaced with 2" over stock.
Throttle cables only need to be rerouted.
Clutch line is fine.
Mike
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For those of you who haven't made the change to the 575's Custom Chrome part number 26145 (one piece clamp )will work for the SEEG's ( and I presume all electra glides) without modification. The mounting holes are already recessed and its a direct bolt on. It can be found at page 4.52 of the '05 CC catalog and costs a mere $15.24.
Dan
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Anyone had a 6 speed trans and have to replace the clutch cable to? Dealer says it is to tight.