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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: STICKMAN on October 08, 2005, 07:58:17 PM
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I had to take off my inner primary because of a seal leak. While it's apart I was wondering if the new H-D Automatic primary chain adjuster PN# 40063-05 would be a good thing to throw in there. I have heard from people that have the M-6 that the bike shifts a little smoother and quieter. Any thoughts?
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I had to take off my inner primary because of a seal leak. While it's apart I was wondering if the new H-D Automatic primary chain adjuster PN# 40063-05 would be a good thing to throw in there.
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Thanks GRC, I was kind of leaning towards getting one. Mine has always learched and clunked. [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif] I think they are all about $100.00, so I might try the H-D. I'll let everyone know how it does.
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Stickman,
I was also thinking og getting the HD Chain Adjuster, however I atlked with a few people who installed them. Thye were not to happy, switched to Haydes or Hb125.
Also check outh the Harley Tech Talk (HTT) website, lot of discussion of not being that good, some of the members on this site are also members of HTT.
Check it out. I am going with the M6 or Hb125.
geezerglide
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/M6-PRIMARY-CHAIN-TENSIONER-BY-HAYDEN-ENTERPRISES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35557QQitemZ4567875975QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Here is the m6 on ebay for 81 w/shipping/ins no tax I have bought from Wallyworld before and worked out well. I just ordered one now for my 05 banana
JP [smiley=banana.gif] [smiley=banana.gif]
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I went with the Harley model for $100.00. I thought they would honor fixing it if it failed or caused a different problem. My dealer doesn't even want you changing your own oil, let alone put in a chain tensioner. I havn't put it in yet as I'm still trying to decide if it's the seal in the inner primary or the main seal that's leaking.
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I went with the Harley model for $100.00.
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I actually like to work on the thing and prefer knowing how it all works so I have a better chance of understanding what is going wrong when I am on the road. My luck with dealer service has been not so good so far and I hope if I need to have a battle over warranty items some day I will be able to succeed. In the mean time let everyone know how the harley thing works out and i will post how the m6 does when I get it on. Be safe JP [smiley=banana.gif] [smiley=banana.gif]
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I bought a Hayden chain tensioner for my 98 Sportster and removed it right away because I didn't like the sound. I later traded the Sportster on the 03 SERK. I know the replacement due to sound seems picky but the material is different and it made a louder sound from the primary chain sliding accross a different material. I sold it on ebay. I am going to buy the Harley tensioner for this reason.
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I installed a HB125 hydraulic chain tensioner about two years ago and it works great. I've been wondering ever since why Harley didn't make one of their own.
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I tried the New Chain Tentioner from Harley after the bike warms up there is a tight chain noise ( howl) now I found out it's a bearing noise because Harley now says a bearing has to be changed in all Dyna bikes which comes with the tentioner every 15,000 miles Good Luck
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I tried the New Chain Tentioner from Harley after the bike warms up there is a tight chain noise ( howl) now I found out it's a bearing noise because Harley now says a bearing has to be changed in all Dyna bikes which comes with the tentioner every 15,000 miles
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I tried the New Chain Tentioner from Harley after the bike warms up there is a tight chain noise ( howl) now I found out it's a bearing noise because Harley now says a bearing has to be changed in all Dyna bikes which comes with the tentioner every 15,000 miles
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I tried the H-D unit while I was in there tightening my loose comp. nut.
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I am using the Hayden M6 (no extra noise) for about 9 months now however I use alot more preload than what the manufacturer suggests. :D ;) ;D :o ::) :-*
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I'm starting to think that the MoCo has decided to save a little cash by purchasing recycled pop bottles and then melt them down for tensioner shoes.
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I thought of that...but I have no experience with the other "auto" types so i have nothing to compare tension to. The shoe on it is probably 30 % longer than the stock shoe and nearly fills the entire distance between the sprocket and the basket....so the chain is riding a longer distance on shoe material and is a hell of a lot tighter. i have not had the opportunity to listen to a new Dyna to see if there is any noise. It might work ok on a non-bagger application cause the center to center distance between the sprocket and clutch basket is greater.
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I am using the Hayden M6 (no extra noise) for about 9 months now however I use alot more preload than what the manufacturer suggests.
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O'Fender,
I had a little email conversation with Hayden, since the instructions said to set the play at 5/8" for a regular Big Twin, but to set it at 1/2" for a stroker.
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Why?
If it's a piece I had limited or no experience with and I had specific guidance from a manufacturer that had significant experience I think I'd take their advice
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TwoLane,
I guess because I would prefer a little slack versus the possibility of trashing a bearing.
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So :othe instructions call for 1 inch of free play between the chain and the tensioner ( before releasing spring tension) Should I go with that to avoid a potention bearing problem?
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I put in a Hayden M6 at the 500 mile mark with the freeplay just as Jerry mentioned. Halfway between the regular 88" and the recommendation for a "stroker". Checked it at the 10K mile mark with no appreciable change. I will be checking it again this fall at the 20K mark, but I have had several M6's and my experience is that they require absolutely no attention whatsoever.
Wish I could find a woman like that!!!! [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]
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So
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I tried it at 1" and 1 1/8th" and at 1 3/16ths..all cold measurements...before releasing the retaining tab.. it howled/whined at every setting.
And this is exactly why the manufacturers ratings don't work (it will be noisey) so increase the preload. That slack will increase with heat. I don't know how to measure the slack I just know when I am assembling it where it needs to be, for it to be quiet and thats about 1/2" of travel between the shoe and the spacers!!! compress the spring after you tighten the adjuster down (I use channel locks) and the chain should be at the perfect setting otherwise it's noisey. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
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All this talk about too much or too little spring tension makes a pretty good argument for the hydraulic unit, the HB125. That unit uses a small hydraulic cylinder, open at the bottom, similar to a hydraulic lifter, to dampen compression and a return spring to do the actual pushing up against the chain. The spring isn't all that powerful, acting only to keep the shoe pressed against the chain. The cylinder allows movement, it just dampens it and then returns to the preload, also a dampened movement.
When I installed mine, I was concerned about a number of things--too tight being the number one. But I followed the instructions, and there it's been for about two years now. I never had any noise at all, although the manufacturer mentioned that there might be a slight whine for the first couple hundred miles or so. Shifting is definitely crisper and neutral is a snap.
Anyway, if you haven't bought the M6, you might consider the HB125.
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And this is exactly why the manufacturers ratings don't work (it will be noisey) so increase the preload. That slack will increase with heat. I don't know how to measure the slack I just know when I am assembling it where it needs to be, for it to be quiet and thats about 1/2" of travel between the shoe and the spacers!!! compress the spring after you tighten the adjuster down (I use channel locks) and the chain should be at the perfect setting otherwise it's noisey. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
I was talking about the new H-D auto tensioner not an m6.....and by the way..the chain will run tighter (less slack) when hot....I'm sure you ment "decrease" with heat.
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I was talking about the new H-D auto tensioner not an m6.....and by the way..[highlight]the chain will run tighter (less slack) when hot[/highlight]....I'm sure you ment "decrease" with heat.
Absolutely correct.
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O'FENDER,
Can you run that by me again. I'm about to put this thing in. What spacers are you refering to?. The intructions reference the freeplay in the top of the chain where you would take the measurement for the stock adjuster. Are you taking it down at the shoe? Also do you think 1/2 is good for my 95 or should I go to 3/4?
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Stickman,
O'Fender was referring to the M6, not the H-D part. The M6 has shims (spacers) that you place under the spring to set the initial preload, and you measure between the top of the shims and the bottom of the shoe. I'm not familiar with the H-D part, so I can only suggest to follow the instructions that come with it precisely.
Jerry
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That makes more sense. I would think that more tension would create more noise but it sound like it's the other way around?
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Well the new adjuster is in and I hear no unusual noises, seems to shift smoother.
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I put in a Hayden M6 at the 500 mile mark with the freeplay just as Jerry mentioned.
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i use the m-6 in my bike and it works great. i have about 10,000 miles on it with no trouble. the instructions tell you to that stroker engines require a tighter chain tension.