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Custom Vehicle Discussions => CVO™ Road Glide Ultra® => Topic started by: gabe on April 11, 2011, 08:23:04 PM
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hi wondering if there is a clutch lever that would make holding clutch in a little easier on 2011
real pain when in traffic
thanks Gabe
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No help from me but Thanks Gabe, for posting. My 2011 FLTRUSE is my first hydraulic clutch. This thing is waaaay harder to pull than any bike I've ever owned. What the hell is the hydraulic part for anyways!
I know I'm gettin' older but Dayum!
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Maybe the VPC clutch can resolve your problem if it fit the hydraulic clutch......
www.aim-tamachi.com
AIM Corp
Huntington Beach,CA 92647
Phone 714 848 3030
E-mail info@aim-tamachi.com
I hope this will help you
My wife also is complaining about the hydralic clutch when she is in stop and go traffic or in the twisties.
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well i dont feel so bad now , there is others with the same problem now we need to found a fix
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called my dealer Cox's hd Rock Hill talked to bill in service a real gear head. he was not aware of any fix for problem .
10 minutes later i get a call bill is on the phone he asked his techs they did not know of anything so he called Harley about problem they told him because of 110 they have a heavier spring in it so there is the answer.
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Unfortunately, anything they could do to reduce the effort at the lever would require them to also spend money on the entire clutch system to increase the torque capacity. So far Harley's answer to increased torque capacity, over many years, has just been stronger and stronger springs which is the cheapest way to bandaid the problem. They are leaving it up to the individual riders to spend the bucks, which is the way they tend to deal with most of the other shortcomings of their products. Get used to it.
One solution that allows for the use of "softer" springs is the variable pressure clutch you can find in the aftermarket (see the post from BALIS above). That design uses centrigual force and weights to increase the clamping load on the clutch plates as rpm's increase, so the springs don't have to be as strong. I haven't used one myself, but there are some folks on the site who have. Perhaps they will share their experiences.
Jerry
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That was my first complaint regarding the SERG... the clutch was STIFF considering it was a Hyd unit.
UI've adjusted.. but on the wife's '11 RK I had to install a reduced effort clutch.
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well i dont feel so bad now , there is others with the same problem now we need to found a fix
thanks for information i called them the best they can do is about a 10% improvement for $300.00
which is better but not much for the money
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Maybe the VPC clutch can resolve your problem if it fit the hydraulic clutch......
www.aim-tamachi.com
AIM Corp
Huntington Beach,CA 92647
Phone 714 848 3030
E-mail info@aim-tamachi.com
I hope this will help you
My wife also is complaining about the hydralic clutch when she is in stop and go traffic or in the twisties.
thanks for information
gabe
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I put the tamachi device in my '01 SERG. Still in there. Nice job keeping the clutch from slipping but I did not notice a differnce in the pull. And, I didn't have to grind the derby cover. Some do, I understand. It was in the instructions as I remember.
Didn't know that about the 110.
Thanks!
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I put the tamachi device in my '01 SERG. Still in there. Nice job keeping the clutch from slipping but I did not notice a differnce in the pull. And, I didn't have to grind the derby cover. Some do, I understand. It was in the instructions as I remember.
Didn't know that about the 110.
Thanks!
The only way it would decrease the lever effort would be if you used a lighter spring. If you were just looking to increase the capacity of your clutch to reduce slipping, you probably didn't use a lighter spring and therefore wouldn't have seen reduced lever effort. :nixweiss:
Jerry
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Jerry
Not that I know anything about clutches but it looks like there moving the point at which whatever in there pushes on the other thingy, to take advantage of leverage to make it easier at the lever. While using the stock springs. :nixweiss:
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Jerry
Not that I know anything about clutches but it looks like there moving the point at which whatever in there pushes on the other thingy, to take advantage of leverage to make it easier at the lever. While using the stock springs. :nixweiss:
You're right, one of the ways they address the issue is through leverage. The VPC units come in three versions if I remember correctly, each different pressure plate contacts the spring at a different distance from the center of the spring. The other method they use to alter effort and clamp load/torque capacity is through various springs, from the stock 1996 level spring to at least two heavier springs. The current CVO110 engines use a stronger spring than the 1996 standard springs or the previous SE springs used in the CVO103. Fine tuning the effort versus clamp load will probably require utilizing both strategies, spring choice and pressure plate choice.
One thing that could help is a combination of a better basic clutch, like something from Rivera or Barnett with more surface area (and thus more torque capacity) along with the VPC. I've never researched it, but for someone willing to spend the money it might be possible to make that 10-20% improvement more like a 30-40% improvement. Just thinking out loud here. Has anyone actually done this on a 110?
Jerry
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I don't like the clutch pull either. I've lost some hand strength over the years. So I notice the increased pull in heavy traffic and at long lights. Isn't gettin' old wonderful? So How much would it cost to replace the factory hydraulic clutch with a cable clutch? I doubt I could do this myself so The labor would probably be the killer here. My friends 09SERG was traded off because the original owner could not deal with the hydraulic clutch. Just thinking out loud.
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I know the clutch-lever task cause of the vrod of my wife.
http://oberon-performance.co.uk/ (http://oberon-performance.co.uk/)
With this lever, you can change the distance between grip and lever,
which helped out my wife.
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One thing that could help is a combination of a better basic clutch, like something from Rivera or Barnett with more surface area (and thus more torque capacity) along with the VPC. I've never researched it, but for someone willing to spend the money it might be possible to make that 10-20% improvement more like a 30-40% improvement. Just thinking out loud here. Has anyone actually done this on a 110?
Jerry
I changed to a Rivera when I built my 120. Clutch lever effort, even with stiffest diaphram spring, is less than the stock 103 it replaced. Had considered a VPC, but decided heavier duty clutch was the best way to go.
A different style clutch lever to gain extra leverage could be the least expensive alternative.
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interesting. one of the things i love most about my SESG is the ease of use in the hydro clutch...
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My wife just pruchased 2011 CVO Softail, she also complained about the clutch effort during stop and go. I did some research, 1. J&P Cycle has some Ergo wide levers that reduce the level angle by 10 degree and will fit the hydraulic clutch. 2. I called and talked with AIM, with the stock CVO 110 using the stock spring they suggest to use the VP84T Variable Pressure Assist, i was told it would reduce the clutch lever effort by 20 percent at low rpm's.
Part numbers J&P Cycle 510-202-01 Chrome Ergo Wide Lever
AIM-VP84T
Hope this helps, I am waiting on the parts will let everyone know how it works. :orange:
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I have also ordered the AIM VP84T for my ultra and hope i will feel a difference in lever effort. :pepper: :apple: :jalapeno:
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My wife just pruchased 2011 CVO Softail, she also complained about the clutch effort during stop and go. I did some research, 1. J&P Cycle has some Ergo wide levers that reduce the level angle by 10 degree and will fit the hydraulic clutch. 2. I called and talked with AIM, with the stock CVO 110 using the stock spring they suggest to use the VP84T Variable Pressure Assist, i was told it would reduce the clutch lever effort by 20 percent at low rpm's.
Part numbers J&P Cycle 510-202-01 Chrome Ergo Wide Lever
AIM-VP84T
Hope this helps, I am waiting on the parts will let everyone know how it works. :orange:
The AIM Pressure Plate should help, but those levers you mentioned won't fit your bike. See attachment copied from the 2011 J&P catalog.
Jerry
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That VPC is the way to go!
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My bag the J&P levers are 510-207.
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The AIM Pressure Plate should help, but those levers you mentioned won't fit your bike. See attachment copied from the 2011 J&P catalog.
Jerry
You are correct, the help desk was not much help.
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My dirt bike has a hydraulic clutch, going to liter hydraulic fluid would make a very big difference. Not sure how this might apply here, wonder if you could open up an orifice or something.... Just thinking out loud.....
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I have the same issue and was looking at buying the AIM VP Clutch...did you guys challenge AIM on the model they recommended for the 2012 CVO Street Glide? According to the website the VP84T with stock spring only goes up to a 103 engine. Did you do it anyway and it worked?
I had the VP on my 05 CVO Fatboy and gave me a 25% reduction which was wonderful. However according to their graph I should do the VP92T that would cover the 110 engine which only gives me a 7% reduction.
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Here is a solution that most won't like but it cost around $5.
:apple:
Seriously though I always just put er in neutral at Stop lights so I don't have to hold in that heavy clutch all day long.
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Yep not exactly what I was looking for, but thanks for the effort! And what is this Neutral you speak of? I can never seem to find it.
I ordered the VP84T. I'll post my review of it once I get it on my new 2012 CVO Street Glide. Meanwhile I sure would like a lead on reduced reach lever for the hydraulic clutch. I've searched all over. :-\
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HDDIVA
After switching to Redline Transmission oil with Shockproof the " Neutral Issue" went away. Hope this helps. Sorry I can't help with the clutch issue. I had to trade my wife's CVO in because of the clutch.
Jerry
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After questioning another forum member I decided to cancel the vp84 and go with the vp70t. Its not rated for the 110 but I'm having 0 issues and no longer need reduced reach levers even for my small hands. I highly recommend!
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I'm having the same problem. I'm blaming it on arthritis. A lot better sounding than just being "weak" :P. In truth, I'm fine until I've been riding a while and my arthritis pain kicks in. I've thought that an adjustable set of levers would probably work. Until now, I haven't been able to find any. Now I see a bunch of them on J&P's website.
Here's a link:
http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-parts/2011-harley-davidson-cvo-road-glide-ultra-fltruse/roland-sands-design/levers?results=100 (http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-parts/2011-harley-davidson-cvo-road-glide-ultra-fltruse/roland-sands-design/levers?results=100)
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I'm having the same problem. I'm blaming it on arthritis. A lot better sounding than just being "weak" :P. In truth, I'm fine until I've been riding a while and my arthritis pain kicks in. I've thought that an adjustable set of levers would probably work. Until now, I haven't been able to find any. Now I see a bunch of them on J&P's website.
Here's a link:
http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-parts/2011-harley-davidson-cvo-road-glide-ultra-fltruse/roland-sands-design/levers?results=100 (http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-parts/2011-harley-davidson-cvo-road-glide-ultra-fltruse/roland-sands-design/levers?results=100)
Those adjustable levers from Roland Sands won't fit the CVO hydraulic clutch, even though the catalog fitment page claims they will. I've verified with them that the fitment information is incorrect in the catalog.
Looking for different levers to reduce the reach is not going to be a fruitful search. Any lever that reduces reach will also reduce travel, and that will not allow full clutch release with the hydraulic clutch.
Jerry
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That makes sense. With the cable clutches you just have to keep the cable adjusted (or a bit tighter than the normal play) and they work. Because normally, there's a little extra slack and as long as you keep it adjusted, they work fine. I guess then when you pull the hyd. clutch lever, it doesn't disengage the clutch any more than needed? Ie. there isn't any extra "play"?
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That makes sense. With the cable clutches you just have to keep the cable adjusted (or a bit tighter than the normal play) and they work. Because normally, there's a little extra slack and as long as you keep it adjusted, they work fine. I guess then when you pull the hyd. clutch lever, it doesn't disengage the clutch any more than needed? Ie. there isn't any extra "play"?
The difference is that a cable clutch has adjustable free play, so if you reduce lever travel and reduce freeplay at the same time you can still get the clutch to release completely. There is no free play in the hydraulic clutch, and there is no adjustment. You would have to change the sizes of the pistons in the master cylinder and actuator to be able to obtain the same release rod travel with less lever travel. Btw, even if such parts were available, making the change would increase the effort at the lever, which is not what anyone here is after.
Jerry