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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: laylonlor on July 04, 2014, 12:00:15 PM
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i need 150 hp to the rear wheel, on my street glide, what size engine do i have to have :drummer:
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124
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Take the HD engine out and find something else if it is supposed to live more than 5000 miles! How well the S&S 124 is going to hold up only time will tell.
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Take the HD engine out and find something else if it is supposed to live more than 5000 miles! How well the S&S 124 is going to hold up only time will tell.
Ain't that the truth! Mine is broke down with 19k. Sad.
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need a granite color, don't like s/s's advertising on the engine, want a sleeper , with welded wheels, and Dewey's heads , woods cam, 150 hp to the rear wheel
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need a granite color, don't like s/s's advertising on the engine, want a sleeper , with welded wheels, and Dewey's heads , woods cam, 150 hp to the rear wheel
They make a granite 124 now.
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I'm gonna have to call JD :cucumber:
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S&S 124 can get you close to 150's without having to go B2 route and crazy compression or a happy dyno. Jims 131 can get you there with the right headwork, cam and compression. G^2 126 which is an S&S motor can also get you there at bookoo bucks, compression. I have 2 of the 3 I mentioned and both over 150 with Sach's touch. I just wouldn't expect under mid 11.x to 1 compression which on a bagger can be a bit daunting on the reliability side. Mine are all capable daily drivers, with the expectation that they can break, but that is a representation of the quality heads/work I got from Sachs that I don't and didn't need over the top compression to make the numbers. Don't believe Jims or Ultima have the Granite colors, but you could redo your heads and turn your existing 110 cases it into a 124 and keep the "sleeper" look. Or buy the S&S granite, reroute the oil,mill out the logo to make it look like fins on the head.
Thus far I am not a fan of the new S&S cases in the stock form and the way the oil has to pass. If you were to do the custom work to have the oil pass internally then I would say you have something, but when you do it they say you no longer have the S&S warranty on the motor. always a catch 22.
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I do not care how you cut it, 150 real HP at the rear tire and have it live for any length of time from a HD engine is just like pissing into the wind and hoping you don't get wet. If that's really your goal and you want it to live you going to need to use something else. Now if what your after is a bar hopper that doesn't go on trips you might get it to live 2 or 3 riding seasons unless you live in an area like I do that we can ride pretty much year round.
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I do not care how you cut it, 150 real HP at the rear tire and have it live for any length of time from a HD engine is just like pissing into the wind and hoping you don't get wet. If that's really your goal and you want it to live you going to need to use something else. Now if what your after is a bar hopper that doesn't go on trips you might get it to live 2 or 3 riding seasons unless you live in an area like I do that we can ride pretty much year round.
I just want a damn motor that will survive a whole summer trip. Mine crapped out 3000 miles into a 3600 mile trip. VERY frustrating!
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All good and accurate advice here
The sleeper will come from kitting your 110 and having Herb in VA or Dave do the work. And of course Daves tune, he is very good.
Pipe remains the same, throttle body is adequate. Cam will be changed.
Not too hard or expensive. Actually the S&S cylinders are not too far from stock look and are available in Granite. Would use CP full skirt pistons.
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150 HP out of a 124 with mild compression and the right dyno is doable... no problem. 150 HP out of a 124 measured with a strain gauge dyno instead of an inertia dyno, probably aint happening on pump gas... not on a naturally aspirated V-Twin anyway.
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Any stock BMW K1600 or jap bike make this out of the box for a lot less than we pay and 100% reliable. On top of that you can take a curve as well at speed.
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Any stock BMW K1600 or jap bike make this out of the box for a lot less than we pay and 100% reliable. On top of that you can take a curve as well at speed.
That K1600 is nice. The seat height is 29.5 inches though I don't think I could touch the ground, at all lol...
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sounds like that's the way to go :drummer:
All good and accurate advice here
The sleeper will come from kitting your 110 and having Herb in VA or Dave do the work. And of course Daves tune, he is very good.
Pipe remains the same, throttle body is adequate. Cam will be changed.
Not too hard or expensive. Actually the S&S cylinders are not too far from stock look and are available in Granite. Would use CP full skirt pistons.
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I had a K1600 GTL last year. Loved the engine but they have a few quality issues to work through before I get another one. Issues with hand controls that shorten out, first model with a slipper clutch resulting in a very annoying drive line lash.
But it handles great and the engine is one if the best I ever had in an MC.
It did not feel that high to me. Seat is narrow in the front and my inseam is 31-32.
That K1600 is nice. The seat height is 29.5 inches though I don't think I could touch the ground, at all lol...
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this is a Harley chat, we don't care about no bmw, they have a chat room ,you need to go over there, were talking about more hd hp :nixweiss:
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i have a hayabusa with 200 hp , that's the only non Harley i would ride
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sorry don't mean to sound like an azz hole, but us Harley guys like loud mc's and things we have to rebuild every few hundred miles,if we wanted to ride dependable mc's that made a lot of hp we probly would get a bmw or a japbike, but there to dame dependable........lol, :2vrolijk_21:
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sorry don't mean to sound like an azz hole, but us Harley guys like loud mc's and things we have to rebuild every few hundred miles,if we wanted to ride dependable mc's that made a lot of hp we probly would get a bmw or a japbike, but there to dame dependable........lol, :2vrolijk_21:
I've been on a Harley for 6 years running, so yeah, I know what you mean 8)
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I hade a couple of Busa's but none of them at 200hp. What mods did you do to get that hp? (170ish at the crank if I recall correctly)
i have a hayabusa with 200 hp , that's the only non Harley i would ride
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My bagger with a 117 makes 123/130 and I break stuff (belts,transmissions,clutches). My Ducati makes 150 at the tire, all day any day with 73ci. You are asking a lot
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head/cams package from Carpenter racing.. full exhaust, power commander and a good tune 2008 orange busa,....
I hade a couple of Busa's but none of them at 200hp. What mods did you do to get that hp? (170ish at the crank if I recall correctly)
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Nice! (And really fast!)
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sorry don't mean to sound like an azz hole, but us Harley guys like loud mc's and things we have to rebuild every few hundred miles,if we wanted to ride dependable mc's that made a lot of hp we probly would get a bmw or a japbike, but there to dame dependable........lol, :2vrolijk_21:
amen to that!!
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I just want a damn motor that will survive a whole summer trip. Mine crapped out 3000 miles into a 3600 mile trip. VERY frustrating!
Jswerve, what happened to your motor? I must have missed it in an earlier post. Was it a 110?
I feel for you. These HD engine issues are getting too common and too expensive!
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Jswerve, what happened to your motor? I must have missed it in an earlier post. Was it a 110?
I feel for you. These HD engine issues are getting too common and too expensive!
Exhaust valve on the rear cylinder stuck open then the intake valve hit it and bent. Yes 110 with 19k
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Exhaust valve on the rear cylinder stuck open then the intake valve hit it and bent. Yes 110 with 19k
Will it be a HD warranty repair?
This is why I might not do a cam job yet on the new 2014. I do not want the moco to try and slide out of the warranty.
BTW I'd love the 150hp but just don't trust it for touring and I am getting tired of spending so much on HD. I mean chit when you spend 40K for a bike it sucks to have to spend 2k more to make it run the way you like it. Maybe some of us are just never satisfied. ;D
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Will it be a HD warranty repair?
This is why I might not do a cam job yet on the new 2014. I do not want the moco to try and slide out of the warranty.
That is dependent upon your dealer. The one I landed at is covering it.
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That is dependent upon your dealer. The one I landed at is covering it.
Good deal. The dealer I am at indicated they can keep me covered if I at their shop. Breaking down on the road may be a different matter? As you might have seen on my other thread about the 255 vs A 54 I am on the fence about the cam work.
Sorry bout the HP thread jack back to the big bikes.
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Don't side-step the torque delivery/torque peak, just to see an hp number.
145-150 ft/lbs is a pile-o-fun. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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you talking to the rear wheel? and 124 ci?
Don't side-step the torque delivery/torque peak, just to see an hp number.
145-150 ft/lbs is a pile-o-fun. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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Yes, and Yes.
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YES, you can get the number on a dyno with great conditions at the time, but, a day by day on various dyno's around the country it just doesn't happen. On a street HD with pump gas 130 is a number that seems to be the upper range that things begin falling apart on our beloved HD bikes. Sure we can all dream about 140, 150 hell even 200 but if you try and run that across the country in a touring bike they fall apart in short order.
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Good deal. The dealer I am at indicated they can keep me covered if I at their shop. Breaking down on the road may be a different matter? As you might have seen on my other thread about the 255 vs A 54 I am on the fence about the cam work.
Sorry bout the HP thread jack back to the big bikes.
IMO, you'll have MORE reliability with the 54 cam over the 255 cam. :o
John
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IMO, you'll have MORE reliability with the 54 cam over the 255 cam. :o
John
Well that pretty much sums that up lol :2vrolijk_21:
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thanks for the info ,..I think our thread got jacked :jack:
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thanks for the info ,..I think our thread got jacked :jack:
???????????
i have a hayabusa with 200 hp , that's the only non Harley i would ride
head/cams package from Carpenter racing.. full exhaust, power commander and a good tune 2008 orange busa,....
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:nixweiss:
I had a K1600 GTL last year. Loved the engine but they have a few quality issues to work through before I get another one. Issues with hand controls that shorten out, first model with a slipper clutch resulting in a very annoying drive line lash.
But it handles great and the engine is one if the best I ever had in an MC.
It did not feel that high to me. Seat is narrow in the front and my inseam is 31-32.
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:zthread:
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YES, you can get the number on a dyno with great conditions at the time, but, a day by day on various dyno's around the country it just doesn't happen. On a street HD with pump gas 130 is a number that seems to be the upper range that things begin falling apart on our beloved HD bikes. Sure we can all dream about 140, 150 hell even 200 but if you try and run that across the country in a touring bike they fall apart in short order.
Steve,
With a Wood 9F,(or other similar cams) at 11.2 cr(less ccp than a 110", and crate S&S engine is 10.8 cr) headwork, good pipe, t/body, or modified carb, seems to work at/very near those numbers I said.
An S&S .640 won't have the "hit" off the bottom, even at 11.7 cr, but it'll have a lot of whip out the back door.
200 ft/lbs or hp would be a supercharged/turbo bike, at least from what we've seen. :)
Scott
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Steve,
With a Wood 9F,(or other similar cams) at 11.2 cr(less ccp than a 110", and crate S&S engine is 10.8) headwork, good pipe, t/body, or modified carb, seems to work at/very near those numbers I said.
An S&S .640 won't have the "hit" off the bottom, even at 11.7 cr, but it'll have a lot of whip out the back door.
200 ft/lbs or hp would be a supercharged/turbo bike, at least from what we've seen. :)
Scott
Seeing the number is one thing but unless I am missing it, here most if not all the members are looking for a Touring style bike that needs to be able to tour the country, run pump gas and not fall apart. I have yet to see any 11:1 HD type engine live long enough to be in any way shape or form fit those guidelines. As I said for a bar hopper/ in town hotrod it's fine but not for a touring bike that's going to pull a trailer or double up loaded type bike.
IMHO too many people are pumping numbers and give people an unrealistic idea that it's all well and good to have a 130 square HD type engine and have it live under the above conditions. Only problem is once people get those type numbers the bikes begin falling apart at a much faster rate than they do to begin with. Try getting one of the above 130 Hp builds stuck in traffic! I've been doing this for along time (40+ years)and I am well aware of how to build HP and torque but I'm also smart enough to understand the limits for the conditions the engine is intended to operate in.
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Seeing the number is one thing but unless I am missing it, here most if not all the members are looking for a Touring style bike that needs to be able to tour the country, run pump gas and not fall apart.
I can't speak for everyone else, but for ME, this is EXACTLY what I want.
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Seeing the number is one thing but unless I am missing it, here most if not all the members are looking for a Touring style bike that needs to be able to tour the country, run pump gas and not fall apart. I have yet to see any 11:1 HD type engine live long enough to be in any way shape or form fit those guidelines. As I said for a bar hopper/ in town hotrod it's fine but not for a touring bike that's going to pull a trailer or double up loaded type bike.
IMHO too many people are pumping numbers and give people an unrealistic idea that it's all well and good to have a 130 square HD type engine and have it live under the above conditions. Only problem is once people get those type numbers the bikes begin falling apart at a much faster rate than they do to begin with. Try getting one of the above 130 Hp builds stuck in traffic! I've been doing this for along time (40+ years)and I am well aware of how to build HP and torque but I'm also smart enough to understand the limits for the conditions the engine is intended to operate in.
.......I'm gone............have a great day............... :2vrolijk_21:
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thanks for the info ,..I think our thread got jacked :jack:
There are different ways to look at power and I hope you find your 150hp mark. I like big power but need to do some real touring with my new Limited bike. I doubt that a 150hp Street Glide will make 20k/yr in big trips and week long rides but as a hot town bike it does sound thrilling.
I should start another thread to define what a touring bike really is. ;)
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I can't speak for everyone else, but for ME, this is EXACTLY what I want.
That was my goal too!
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Said it before and say it again, "my recipe" using the S&S crate 124" motor and throttle hog, Baker Street door, Baker HD throwout bearing, Baker attitude adjuster, Evolution Industries billet steel clutch. Just bolt the parts on, put in a stellar tune and ride it and don't do anything except buy tires oil and brakes from that point forward. You've got a big dumb motor that is detuned enough that it won't run hot and it runs tons of oil pressure and volume. You've got 3 stand up USA made companies that stand behind their products. Quitcher bitchin' and ride it. Bet it's got more balls than most riders are willing to push the limits of and will hold up a long time.
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Our HO(not crate engines or generic, garden-variety builds) 117", or 124" engines just keep on truckin'.
Have a Syracuse, N.Y., client with over 85,000 miles on his 124".
'Nuff said.
Scott
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I can't speak for everyone else, but for ME, this is EXACTLY what I want.
I do a lot of 124"`s for guys looking for the same thing,building one right now.10.5-1,S&S .585 cams,110 heads.VERY reliable motor with very nice power too
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The motors being described are in the high 120s to mid 130hp range and I have no doubt they are reliable. The op mentioned he wanted 150 out of this 6speed motorcycle. Apples and oranges.
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I got a S&S V111 not quite the 124 but I got over 40,000 mile without a single problem!
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Posts 46-48 sound like nice motors that really could be a nice strong touring ride. The Hp #'s that the OP is wanting rule out the touring ideology. Buy what you want just know what you are buying.
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Buy what you want just know what you are buying.
Seems I hit a nerve around here with my comments but the above statement about says it all. I have yet to see any HD based engine make about 130 that will fit the touring crowd and that's why I stated it. People want more, but then when things start falling apart they wonder why. Sure I want more, don't we all, but knowing when to stop for the intended purpose also needs to play into the picture. If you plan this kind of power and want to tour, it takes a bunch more parts to get the bike close to being reliable for Touring. The engine is just the beginning of the upgrades. Living in the LA area with our traffic and heat just kills these bigger power builds. It's not the size of the displacement of the engine yet the power they make. So if it's a 103 making 130 square or a 124 doing it really doesn't much matter. Transmissions and belts will start breaking, engines will over heat, clutches fail, compensator's will fail quicker, ect.
So you need to keep upgrading other components along with the engine to keep the engine reliable and the bike reliable. As long as you know and understand this great, do a high HP build and enjoy it, but if you plan to tour, you had better build something that's going to run on the crap fuel we have these days all around the country and live with lower power numbers. IMHO an 11:1 engine just isn't going to cut it in these larger displacement engines with what we have to live with today for Touring. I would much rather see a 10:1 engine making 120 square that will run all day on 89 octane with out over heating and enjoy it.
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..................a crate S&S 124/.640 cam is 10.8 cr, .2 of of a point shy of 11.0.........and low an behold we have a client in Syracuse, N.Y, that has 85,000 plus miles on his cross-country touring bike. .2 of a point of compression on those builds is NOT a game changer. No way, no how, even on Sundays.
It is not the mechanical number that the compression is set at, but rather the ccp.
That bike would not still have issues if in fact the squeeze was brought up 1/2 a point, only ting that would change would probably be better fuel economy..............oh yeah, and almost forgot, the fun also.............. :)
And that's right, the service manuals want 91 octane.........
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"i need 150 hp to the rear wheel"
You may WANT 150 rwhp, but I seriously doubt you NEED 150 rwhp. Are you planning to race that Hog, or do you just want bragging rights at the local watering hole? If you want some serious horsepower, forget making the engine bigger and get yourself a nice blower setup instead. It's not going to be terribly reliable anyway, so just go for the big numbers. Really impress those other guys, at least while it's actually running.
Jerry
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The mechanical number is important and as the displacement gets larger it becomes more and more important. If it didn't matter than 8:1 should be fine and we all know that's not the case. Fuel across the country varies and an 11:1 engine isn't going to run properly on much of the fuel that is out there today. As a matter of fact 10.5 is pushing it with any combination of camshaft design on a large displacement engine. Small displacement engine are different. If you really think that people are going to run 130 square plus and not have other issues and a shorter life engine and bike, you are dreaming. I've been at this a long time and what I've said is what I and many others have seen. Let's see who here has a big HP build (130 +) and has had no issues for 20K+. No customers brothers uncle stuff but a personal owner that can come in and tell us what they have and the miles on the build with Nothing done other than changing the oil filter and such. Then, tell use what non-stock parts are on the bike. There is going to be a long list of other non engine parts that have/had to be upgraded to handle the power and I've list just a few of these before.
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"i need 150 hp to the rear wheel"
You may WANT 150 rwhp, but I seriously doubt you NEED 150 rwhp. Are you planning to race that Hog, or do you just want bragging rights at the local watering hole? If you want some serious horsepower, forget making the engine bigger and get yourself a nice blower setup instead. It's not going to be terribly reliable anyway, so just go for the big numbers. Really impress those other guys, at least while it's actually running.
Jerry
Ain't want and need the same word? :D
If the OP wants 150rwhp then he should buy that, no matter what is cost or how it lasts. As long as he goes in head up and in the know then there ain't no problem if and when he comes apart. It might make for a great tale about black and blue smoke every where. :huepfenlol2:
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My 127 makes 145 tq and 140hp it has about 40,000 on it yes it caused grief with the baker DD6 and I had to swap out the belt for a chain, the S&S clutch holds up perfectly no issues but lots of heavily loaded touring on this into vegas down to new mexico I have a jag oil cooler on it but it it has only been to 220 once, running a 51mm SE carb and Rb racing black hole pipe, I ride it very hard, Burnouts, full throttle bang shifts etc, it doesn't use any oil It doesn't run as good on 89 for sure it pings but 91 or 93 is just fine. This is a 4.25 bore with 4.5 stroke. The only things I changed from how it was delivered from Ultima is I put in S&S lifters right at the beginning and the 51mm SE carb which is much better than the 45mm mikuni that it came with, it really screams lots of power from about 2000 rpm and up to about 5200, I did try a bigger cam but ended up putting the 640 lift 268 duration cam it came with back in as it worked better. I used Mobil one at the beginning and switched to Syn3 for most of it's life, I might pull it down this winter, check the run out on the flywheels etc but it runs great. 10.2 compression.
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My next upgrade I have been thinking about is to put in the 126 S&S motor, this does make 150hp with 4 3/8 bore
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:nixweiss:
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My 127 makes 145 tq and 140hp it has about 40,000 on it yes it caused grief with the baker DD6 and I had to swap out the belt for a chain, the S&S clutch holds up perfectly no issues but lots of heavily loaded touring on this into vegas down to new mexico I have a jag oil cooler on it but it it has only been to 220 once, running a 51mm SE carb and Rb racing black hole pipe, I ride it very hard, Burnouts, full throttle bang shifts etc, it doesn't use any oil It doesn't run as good on 89 for sure it pings but 91 or 93 is just fine. This is a 4.25 bore with 4.5 stroke. The only things I changed from how it was delivered from Ultima is I put in S&S lifters right at the beginning and the 51mm SE carb which is much better than the 45mm mikuni that it came with, it really screams lots of power from about 2000 rpm and up to about 5200, I did try a bigger cam but ended up putting the 640 lift 268 duration cam it came with back in as it worked better. I used Mobil one at the beginning and switched to Syn3 for most of it's life, I might pull it down this winter, check the run out on the flywheels etc but it runs great. 10.2 compression.
Perfect, real person admitting it took more than just the engine. Something that others need to know if they want similar results.
127 cu in @ 10.2:1
S&S Lifters
New Transmission
S&S Clutch
Change from Belt drive to Chain drive
Added oil Cooler
Synthetic Oil
Requires 91 or better fuel to run properly
This is what people need to know and understand when thinking of doing a similar build and expecting it to live. Here in CA 91 fuel is the best we can buy and I know it's that way in other states as well. Lets hope more owners will chime in with what it really takes to keep a big HP build going. This way people may save themselves some up front by knowing what it really takes. Thanks for sharing with us.
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mine is just a lill 110 build with 124 hp 126 trq i did replace clutch & comp at time of build and so far its broke the trans and the comp starting make some noise...but it sure is a lot fun...and i do under stand toys break, its part of the fun ;)
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So how many miles from the build with the engine, compensator and clutch to the broken transmission? How many more until lastly the new compensator starting to make noise. These are just what I've been talking about and if enough people share information I bet were going to be able to clearly see how often what components fail versus the power output of the build. I really do not believe it has to do with the size of the engine but the performance level of the engine. Sure some are going to get more or less miles out of the same package due to how they ride but over all it going to show a trend of failed parts versus power output. Good information for all to see.
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i'm running a 110 with the same no's as you, i still have stock fly wheels in mine , but i was gonna tear it down to ck. things out,and was thinking of going bigger, using my stock cases , and bigger fly wheels,
mine is just a lill 110 build with 124 hp 126 trq i did replace clutch & comp at time of build and so far its broke the trans and the comp starting make some noise...but it sure is a lot fun...and i do under stand toys break, its part of the fun ;)
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it only took 5k miles after the build for tranny to break and 6.5k miles for the comp noise, it also ate up the best part of the rear tire :nixweiss: im sure my riding style has a lot to do with it...but like i said its a toy and im not mad about any of it, heck ive been breaking hot rods for 35 plus years, its how i keep my self from thinking about getting old 8)
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you running a bagger? i need some extra hp to run with the non baggers...lol :mango:
it only took 5k miles after the build for tranny to break and 6.5k miles for the comp noise, it also ate up the best part of the rear tire :nixweiss: im sure my riding style has a lot to do with it...but like i said its a toy and im not mad about any of it, heck ive been breaking hot rods for 35 plus years, its how i keep my self from thinking about getting old 8)
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Leave it stock, run a dished piston to lower the compression so kerosene can be run in it.
Done deal.
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Everybody should know it costs money to go fast :nixweiss: Well at least everybody............!
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I do not think this is about spending money to go fast, hell I do not even want to know what I've spent on my toys. Look at the crazy prices we all spend just to own a HD. It's more about what should be done to let people understand the limits of the package. IMHO trying to run anymore than 120/120 and expecting it to live as well as a stock engine (which isn't saying a whole lot these days) is unreal, unless many other non-engine upgrades are also made to go along with it. If these were done upfront many of the related failures should become a non-issue. If your plans are to run the bike across the country and Tour there needs to be a certain expectation of reliability in order to do it. Just because we can turn the power up doesn't mean we should all the time, and letting people know where to stop for the intended purpose, its going to be used in, has to be a part of that at some point.
For me I love the power and will always search for more, as the old saying goes...... The definition of enough power is when you never find the end of the throttle!
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No doubt , drive train has to be upgraded, in my case 128/136 ,belt,pulley, mainshaft,baker inner primary race all junk in 12k miles, never did a burnout FWIW. Rear tires every 4k miles, but does get 40mpg!
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I agree with SC, I am running a 120 151hp 146tq got 30K on this 120, toured the midwest 2 times, ride the bike everyday and see more than 200 miles most weekends. primary 24t and 37t and is set up with SO hyd tensioner and full Bandit clutch and basket set up, trans is Baker OD6, EKzzz 530 chain with 23t and 55t sprockets, 5th gear is 3.68 and OD is 3.17. get 38 mpg tune is the most important and done by Bob at RC, also running 10 row Jagg with Sky fans and head fans by Wards Part Werks. I keep the rpm's between 3K and 3500 and give me 70 to 86 mph. rarely let the rpm's below 3k unless it is flat or downhill, and this is a MM bike. all the work is perform by me and no problem taking the bike on the road with no worries. king tour pak goes on the bike when touring.
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n572/johnca58/lighthouse.jpg) (http://s1140.photobucket.com/user/johnca58/media/lighthouse.jpg.html)
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09 CVO Fatbob with the with the HD 110 upgrade. hc 10.5 pistons, 259e cam with perfect fit pushrods, springs gaskets ect. Propipe and tuned on the dyno 110.74hp and 120ft/lb torque. I have over 15k trouble free miles since the build and love the bike.
In my limited I want to stay a bit more conservative and quiet.
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I agree with SC, I am running a 120 151hp 146tq got 30K on this 120, toured the midwest 2 times, ride the bike everyday and see more than 200 miles most weekends. primary 24t and 37t and is set up with SO hyd tensioner and full Bandit clutch and basket set up, trans is Baker OD6, EKzzz 530 chain with 23t and 55t sprockets, 5th gear is 3.68 and OD is 3.17. get 38 mpg tune is the most important and done by Bob at RC, also running 10 row Jagg with Sky fans and head fans by Wards Part Werks. I keep the rpm's between 3K and 3500 and give me 70 to 86 mph. rarely let the rpm's below 3k unless it is flat or downhill, and this is a MM bike. all the work is perform by me and no problem taking the bike on the road with no worries. king tour pak goes on the bike when touring.
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n572/johnca58/lighthouse.jpg) (http://s1140.photobucket.com/user/johnca58/media/lighthouse.jpg.html)
Agree with tuning being one of the most important parts.Bob tuned mine also (1200 mile round trip to have him do it and would do it again) and is making 138/139 on a crate 120r and has had zero motor issues in 10000 miles in all conditions. I run it very hard but it is also great when following some buddies that "are in no rush"...
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Guess that about wraps that up.............. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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John
That is one great looking bike! I can appreciate all the work it took to get there from the early model year start.
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"Let's see who here has a big HP build (130 +) and has had no issues for 20K+. No customers brothers uncle stuff but a personal owner that can come in and tell us what they have and the miles on the build with Nothing done other than changing the oil filter and such. Then, tell use what non-stock parts are on the bike."
I have over 20k on the 124" in my Deuce that made 134/130 SAE. Nothing done in that time except for oil and filter. The non-stock non-engine parts are a Rivera Pro Clutch. Compression is 10.8:1, gear driven S&S .640s, CV 51 carb. Gets about 45-46 MPG when touring. No oil cooler and never runs hot (maximum 260ish oil temp) even in 100+ Alabama temps.
Not arguing...just sayin'. :)
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Thanks Don, all your work keeps the engine top end going great and Darkhorse work keep the bottom end together. I wouldn't change a thing on the engine.
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So all these engines are in the 120+ range are taking out other components on the bikes............ pretty much sums up what I've said. While our sampling here is less than 7 bikes total, the trend starting to show is already pretty clear! It looks like most of the owners posting have all added clutches, transmission components at a minimum to keep them together. Others have added oil coolers, cooling fans, chain drives ect. With that in mind if your plans are to go into this power range be prepared to add a few thousand more dollars to the build above the engine cost at a minimum to add the necessary support items to have them live.
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"Let's see who here has a big HP build (130 +) and has had no issues for 20K+. No customers brothers uncle stuff but a personal owner that can come in and tell us what they have and the miles on the build with Nothing done other than changing the oil filter and such. Then, tell use what non-stock parts are on the bike."
I have over 20k on the 124" in my Deuce that made 134/130 SAE. Nothing done in that time except for oil and filter. The non-stock non-engine parts are a Rivera Pro Clutch. Compression is 10.8:1, gear driven S&S .640s, CV 51 carb. Gets about 45-46 MPG when touring. No oil cooler and never runs hot (maximum 260ish oil temp) even in 100+ Alabama temps.
Not arguing...just sayin'. :)
And pipes that should not make that kind of power.. I was wrong twice HA HA ..
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