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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: +RO@D*R@GE+ on July 07, 2014, 01:00:23 PM
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can you adjust the clutch on a 2012 cvo road glide? I was told you couldn't but it seems like it needs it
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No adjustment that I know of. Seems to be an ongoing battle with the hyd clutch.
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There is no adjustment on the hyd. Clutch. Check your fluid level careful. As your clutch wears the fluid level will increase so a small amount will need to be removed.
How many miles do you have on your bike? And what gives you the feeling the clutch needs adjusted?
I am sure if you give a little bit of a description of your problem someone may have ran into the same thing and give you some more information. A hyd. clutch does give a different feeling than a cable, at least a little to me.
Todd
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What exactly makes you think the clutch needs adjustment? Hydraulic clutches are self adjusting, just like disc brakes.
The biggest problem with the Harley hydraulic clutch over the years has been air in the system, and it's not always easy to bleed it completely. If you're having a problem where it seems like the clutch isn't releasing completely, the first thing to check is for air in the system. The other possible problem areas are the actuator (slave cylinder) at the trans side cover, and of course the master cylinder. It's a very simple system.
Jerry
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I've never accepted the fact that a hyd. clutch can't be somehow adjusted (to engage the clutch at the lever sooner or later) even though it's not in the service manual. But admittedly I haven't figured it out in part because I'm not an engineer. I have tried altering the thickness of the clutch plates and the steel plates, and that doesn't do it.
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Jerry, you may be able to answer this question about the hydraulic clutch. Can it be gravity bled? I personally have never tried it before and all my friends have cable clutches.
Some one else may know the answer as well.
Todd.
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you might want to check to make sure the master cyl isn't over full as the clutch wears it will put more fluid back in the master cylinder but it's hardly noticeable, that and air in the system. This is the same as your hydraulic brakes no adjustment nessessary. There is also a small bleed back orfice in the master cyliner even a small amount of dirt can clog this which will keep pressure in the system and not allow the air to naturally bleed.
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when I start the bike in 1st with the clutch pressed in it wants to buck forward ....also when riding I have to press the clutch in all the way into the grips before it will like to shift...just little things
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I've never accepted the fact that a hyd. clutch can't be somehow adjusted (to engage the clutch at the lever sooner or later) even though it's not in the service manual. But admittedly I haven't figured it out in part because I'm not an engineer. I have tried altering the thickness of the clutch plates and the steel plates, and that doesn't do it.
The only way to "adjust" a hydraulic clutch is to replace the master cylinder with one that moves a different amount of fluid when you squeeze the hand lever. (I've never heard of such a replacement master cylinder - but that would be the only way.)
When you squeeze the hand lever, "x" amount of fluid moves, which in turn pushes the slave cylinder/push rod "x" distance (approx. .065), which in turn releases the clutch plates. If you want the clutch plates to move a lesser/greater distance, you have to move less/more fluid which would require a different size/stroke cylinder in your master cylinder.
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when I start the bike in 1st with the clutch pressed in it wants to buck forward ....also when riding I have to press the clutch in all the way into the grips before it will like to shift...just little things
If you're bike want's to "buck forward" either when starting it in gear or when engaging first gear, the problem is one of several possibilities.
You may worn your clutch plates to the point you need to remove a small amount of fluid from your master cylinder.
You may have air in the hydraulic system which needs to be bled out.
You may need to replace the seals in the slave cylinder located in the transmission side cover.
You may have warped (out of flat) clutch discs/spacer plates.
You may have slightly overfilled your primary lubricant, resulting in excessive primary fluid on your clutch plates, causing them to stick together. When this happens they don't fully release when you squeeze the hand lever.
The first step I would take is to check the master cylinder and verify it is not overfilled (which can happen as the clutch plates wear, which displaces fluid into the master cylinder).
The second step would be to remove the inspection plate on your primary cover. Then using a dial indicator placed on the end of the pushrod, measure the amount of pushrod travel you obtain when on squeeze the hand lever. You should have a minimum of .065 pushrod travel when you squeeze the hand lever. If you have less, you need to bleed air from the system. If you bleed the system and are confident you have removed all the air, but still don't have proper travel, it's possible you need to replace the seals in your slave cylinder.
If you measure the proper amount of pushrod travel when you squeeze the hand lever, then your problem is mechanical (not hydraulic). Something is preventing your clutch plates from releasing when the pushrod moves.
Most common is either warped clutch plates or warped spacer plates - or excessive primary lubricant causing your clutch plates to stick together and not properly releasing. The service manual calls for 38 oz. "wet fill" or a 45 oz. "dry fill" of your primary. Personally, I fill my primary with 35 oz. "dry fill" to prevent oil from splashing on the clutch plates. To inspect your clutch plates, you will need drain your primary lubricant and remove the primary cover. Then remove the clutch and spacer plates and inspect them for flatness and wear.
These are all simple things to check and simple tasks to perform with basic hand tools (with the exception of a dial indicator) and a service manual. Certainly nothing I'd pay a service technician to trouble shoot.
Good luck... :2vrolijk_21:
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Jerry, you may be able to answer this question about the hydraulic clutch. Can it be gravity bled? I personally have never tried it before and all my friends have cable clutches.
Some one else may know the answer as well.
Todd.
I haven't tried it either Todd, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. The only real requirement for gravity bleeding brakes is that the master cylinder be significantly higher than the calipers. With the hydraulic clutch on a Harley the M/C is definitely significantly higher than the slave cylinder. I've found with the clutch that it is also necessary to manually bleed the small amount of air that often gets trapped at the banjo fitting for the line at the M/C, and I assume you would still need to do that.
The biggest PITA with the Harley system is actually filling the system if its been apart to replace things like the line. That might be a good time to try the gravity method, so you could do something else for an hour or two or ten while capillary action does its magic. A good pressure or vacuum system would still seem to be the best and quickest approach however.
Jerry
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I haven't tried it either Todd, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. The only real requirement for gravity bleeding brakes is that the master cylinder be significantly higher than the calipers. With the hydraulic clutch on a Harley the M/C is definitely significantly higher than the slave cylinder. I've found with the clutch that it is also necessary to manually bleed the small amount of air that often gets trapped at the banjo fitting for the line at the M/C, and I assume you would still need to do that.
The biggest PITA with the Harley system is actually filling the system if its been apart to replace things like the line. That might be a good time to try the gravity method, so you could do something else for an hour or two or ten while capillary action does its magic. A good pressure or vacuum system would still seem to be the best and quickest approach however.
Jerry
The tough part about gravity bleeding a clutch system is the extreme small volume of brake fluid contained in the clutch master cylinder. It can be done, but you'd have to stay on top of it to ensure you don't run the fluid so low that you expose the return hole, thus introducing more air into the system. Gravity bleeding works well to fill the hydraulic line and the slave cylinder, but pressure bleeding will still be necessary to remove air from the banjo fitting located on the side of the master cylinder.
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Thanks sadunbar and Jerry. It wouldn't take but just a small amount of air around the banjo fitting to really mess up the clutch feel.
Todd.
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My bike lurches forward with clutch engaged when it's cold. Once it warms up it goes away?
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My bike lurches forward with clutch engaged when it's cold. Once it warms up it goes away?
Drain a few oz. of primary fluid... Maybe 4 oz. Ride it until the primary has temperature, then let it sit until it returns to ambient and try it again. Slightly to much primary lubricant will stick to your clutch plates when cold, causing your "lurch". The combination of centrifugal force flinging the lubricant from your clutch plates and heat in the lubricant can allow your clutch to function normally when at temperature.
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Drain a few oz. of primary fluid... Maybe 4 oz. Ride it until the primary has temperature, then let it sit until it returns to ambient and try it again. Slightly to much primary lubricant will stick to your clutch plates when cold, causing your "lurch". The combination of centrifugal force flinging the lubricant from your clutch plates and heat in the lubricant can allow your clutch to function normally when at temperature.
It's just barely to the sight glass(the fill line).Does it expand after warming up? :confused5:
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It's just barely to the sight glass. Does it expand after warming up? :confused5:
Primary fluid sight glass??
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Primary fluid sight glass??
LOL sorry bro I just woke up! Ok I only put one quart in when I changed it. That put me to the bottom of the discs. Should definitely not be overfilled!
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I haven't looked into it on the HD, but on other bikes I have/had I've shortened the pin between the lever and master to change the engagement/disengagement point of the lever to be closer to the grip. I don't know if this is possible on the HD though
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Isn't an overfilled primary the most common issue with clutches, hydraulic or mechanical?
An air powered bleeder works great for bleeding these bikes. There is a separate thread already on her showing it's use.
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Isn't an overfilled primary the most common issue with clutches, hydraulic or mechanical?
An air powered bleeder works great for bleeding these bikes. There is a separate thread already on her showing it's use.
yep...
At least it's a simple fix! :2vrolijk_21:
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My issue seems to be a little different. Its not a stock clutch in the 09 SERG but its been in the bike 12-15k miles. When the lever is released (all the way out) we are off and running. It almost seels like when I'm coming to a stop in first gear that the bike is still pulling. Not enough to drop the rpms but like the clutch is not completely engaging. Any ideas?
BigLew
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My bike lurches forward with clutch engaged when it's cold. Once it warms up it goes away?
Mine seems to be just the opposite. When its cold I can find neutral without much effort but once it warms up its hard. Clutch release is all the way out and it still feels like its pulling when the lever is fully pulled.
BigLew