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[kustomhd66]

Hello
This part #36819-07 is pain in the a$$. I does not last my 124" engine. I have Barnett Scorpion lock-up clutch and forged basket by Barnett as well. Also using Schaeffler angular contact ball bearings 7200-B-XL-TVP. Now after 3000 miles pushrod is done and ball bearing was eating Barnett pressure plate. I need to have new plate, pushrod, snap ring, and ball bearing. Or does anybody have better idea to solve the problem? Maybe need to change back cable operated clutch? Not sure if it is possible to do it. Thanks in advance. Ride Safe

[Cecild211]

Not sure what is going on.  But I can speak to the fact you want to ensure there isn't any pressure on the rod by adjusting the clutch adjuster in to it touches and back it of 180 to 360 degrees. 

If this rod spins constantly it will have a melt down.  Should only turn when clutch is engaged

Not sure if this helps but I have had this experience.

Another cause but most likely not yours is a warped main shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Twolanerider]

Not sure what is going on.  But I can speak to the fact you want to ensure there isn't any pressure on the rod by adjusting the clutch adjuster in to it touches and back it of 180 to 360 degrees. 

If this rod spins constantly it will have a melt down.  Should only turn when clutch is engaged

Not sure if this helps but I have had this experience.

Another cause but most likely not yours is a warped main shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No adjustment in hydraulic clutch.

[FlaHeatWave]

Hello
This part #36819-07 is pain in the a$$. I does not last my 124" engine. I have Barnett Scorpion lock-up clutch and forged basket by Barnett as well. Also using Schaeffler angular contact ball bearings 7200-B-XL-TVP. Now after 3000 miles pushrod is done and ball bearing was eating Barnett pressure plate. I need to have new plate, pushrod, snap ring, and ball bearing. Or does anybody have better idea to solve the problem? Maybe need to change back cable operated clutch? Not sure if it is possible to do it. Thanks in advance. Ride Safe

'Have witnessed a friend have the same issue with his '12 CVORG 124 HC, Barnett Scorpion, Lock-up, Forged Basket, (idk if he's using the Schaeffler Bearings??),,, the Rod has "welded" 2x,,, He has tried everything that Barnett has told him to try, including replacing components in the Scorpion that Barnett has Warrantied and sent to him...
His Scorpion will make a "squawking" noise (shudder) from time to time when engaging the Clutch from a stop...

Several Indys are using this set-up in their Big# Hydraulic Clutches;
All OE with The Alto Carbonite Plate Kit, AIM VP-95, SE HD Spring and Redline Primary Case Fluid or Formula+

No Slip, Quiet, Motorcop Friction Zone, Easy Neutral, NO PITA...

Good Luck...

If you find a solution,,, Let us know...




 





 

[grc]

Not sure what is going on.  But I can speak to the fact you want to ensure there isn't any pressure on the rod by adjusting the clutch adjuster in to it touches and back it of 180 to 360 degrees. 

If this rod spins constantly it will have a melt down.  Should only turn when clutch is engaged

Not sure if this helps but I have had this experience.

Another cause but most likely not yours is a warped main shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With a hydraulic clutch the rod has no adjustment and runs zero lash.  The rod isn't supposed to spin, that's what the release bearing is for.  If the rods are welding themselves to the mating parts, I'd be inclined to believe the bearing is the problem.

Jerry

[kustomhd66]

With a hydraulic clutch the rod has no adjustment and runs zero lash.  The rod isn't supposed to spin, that's what the release bearing is for.  If the rods are welding themselves to the mating parts, I'd be inclined to believe the bearing is the problem.

Jerry

That's correct.  Bearing was the problem. If something good, the bearing did not break and causing damages clutch and primary.

[kustomhd66]

'Have witnessed a friend have the same issue with his '12 CVORG 124 HC, Barnett Scorpion, Lock-up, Forged Basket, (idk if he's using the Schaeffler Bearings??),,, the Rod has "welded" 2x,,, He has tried everything that Barnett has told him to try, including replacing components in the Scorpion that Barnett has Warrantied and sent to him...
His Scorpion will make a "squawking" noise (shudder) from time to time when engaging the Clutch from a stop...

Several Indys are using this set-up in their Big# Hydraulic Clutches;
All OE with The Alto Carbonite Plate Kit, AIM VP-95, SE HD Spring and Redline Primary Case Fluid or Formula+

No Slip, Quiet, Motorcop Friction Zone, Easy Neutral, NO PITA...

Good Luck...

If you find a solution,,, Let us know...

Thanks for info. Sounds like my case. Squawking, and I hate that noise. I'm using Red Line 70W90 NS GL-5 gear oil in primary. This will reduce squawking. Next oil change I will install Altos and AIM and let how they will work.

[kustomhd66]

Hello
Problem solved. I wrote to Barnett this matter, and they sent new, different B-friction plate with the new judder spring and seat. Just installed clutch yesterday and squawking is gone. Big thanks for Mr Chance Darling at Barnett.