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[kojack]

Never saw that before.   So,  I have the entire intake off the bike,  sprayed intake runner cleaner in around everything, wiped it down and cleaned it all up.  air blasted the filter, etc.   while she sits now,  with everything off,  it works like a charm,  it started and raised the idle right away,  and the idle stayed there.   I let it sit for 3 or 4 min running like that then cracked the throttle.  down to 1000.  I played with the low idle screw that goes to the cables,  and never touched the high rpm.   It idled for 15 mins no issue.  Funny thing is as I was screwing in the low idle screw,  it would reduce the idle instead of what I thought it would do.  backed it off and bammo.  idled around 950,  I would like it a little higher as I am not a purist and care not if I have potato or not.  but it sat and idled happily.  Now,  cracking the throttle sounded and felt "crisper" as well.  There was still a little stumble but nothing like before.  Could my filter be REALLY CLOGGED?   I can see some light through it but I am not sure how much I would see with a new one.  Next up is swap my plug wires and go for a run.   if that does not cure it,  I am going to sit,  and add some fuel through the PCIII on the low end.

[kojack]

Oh,  BTW,  what is the hose that goes from the bottom of the intake backing plate,  to the little chorme tube that seems to be connected to the heads?

[kojack]

Remember I mentioned a "squeak" noise from my motor.   Well I have a video of it now.  I will figure out how to post it after.   You can hear it,  It sounds like a glitch in the video but its the motor make that noise.  and it sounds like it came from the front cyl through the intake.

[kojack]

Well,  after getting everything put back together,  I now idle at 1400 rpm.  I added more fuel in the low end,  but I am going to go more.   Should be pretty good after that.

[FLTRI]

Well,  after getting everything put back together,  I now idle at 1400 rpm.  I added more fuel in the low end,  but I am going to go more.   Should be pretty good after that.

Sounds like you have messed with the cold/warmup idle screw, the warm/hot idle screw, or both.
When the bike is dead cold start it up and see what rpms you have. If the cold rpm is too high or low shut it off asap so unnecessary heat builds up so you can retest after adjustment.
(You may have to back off the hot idle screw because it is confounding the warm up adjustment)
Once you are happy with the cold startup idle speed, let it completely warm...like ride it around for 5 mins. Once completely warm readjust the hot idle speed to 900-1050.
Once this is done unplug the ECM fuse under the righ side cover in the cute black fuse holder for 5mins.
Plug the fuse back in and ride.
THIS ASSUMES THE IDLE - 1500 rpm FUEL MIXTURE IS CLOSE. Gotta be close enough for the mechanical idle speed control (ISC) to work properly.
If you do not have a way to measure AFR and think you will be able to guess your way through a Magneti Marelli idle setup and tune, I can tell you from many years experience working with these MM EFI systems, it will drive you completely nuts trying to figure out how get the thing running right.
There's 100s of threads in the Harley forums out there with folks trying to get it right.
Find a tuner that really knows MM EFI and you will be very happy. Otherwise find an Indy who will convert you to a carb then ride.
Hope this helps,
Bob

[kojack]

I am my indy.   I just never adjusted a  MM before.   I never touched the two screws that are covered in epoxy.  I know better than that.   So,  the single t8 screw I have been adjusting,  adjusts both cold and hot idle?

[Twolanerider]

I am my indy.   I just never adjusted a  MM before.   I never touched the two screws that are covered in epoxy.  I know better than that.   So,  the single t8 screw I have been adjusting,  adjusts both cold and hot idle?

No, not and cold idle are separate screws.  Check your service manual or at least visually and specifically look at the bell crank behind the face of the throttle body.  You'll see the other screw back there.  Set them one at a time.  Do the cold idle (assuming you're starting with a cold bike).  Get it where you want it.  Go through the shut down/pull the fuses/wait procedure.  Then do it all again for the regular idle setting. 

I've read service revisions that say this isn't necessary.  Or steps can be handled differently.  But, hundreds of years ago when Marelli first came on the scene, that was the recommended idle setting procedure and it works almost all the time.  I throw in the "almost all the time" because sometimes Marelli bikes are just a little quirky and an idle setting you just changed won't be where you had it.  Then you just do it again.  It doesn't happen often; but once in awhile.....

Since it seems you're tackling this (as a bona fide indy shop) without benefit of manual nor background that has you familiar with the old bikes here's a suggestion to consider.  Just FWIW.  Get a Clymer manual.  They are not factory manuals.  They will once in awhile suffer a little in comparison.  But in some ways they are better.  They're not written so much with the professional audience in mind.  They tend to do a little better sometimes describing the steps and processes in a way that is more for the home wrench.

They've also usually got some pretty good wiring diagrams that are for many easier to read too.  So it's a win-win with that material that an indy shop will need sometime too.

[kojack]

I have the manual,  just it's misplaced since we moved.   Well,  I know its idling now,  ha ha.   around 1500 rpm hot.  a little to much for my liking.  1100 would be ideal.   Twolane,  can you send me your email so I can email you a video of the "squeak" in my motor that I have been mentioning?

[kojack]

oh,  my hot idle goes to 2000rpm just for a second and then drops.   I am going to hunt down the screw for that one.   

[Twolanerider]

oh,  my hot idle goes to 2000rpm just for a second and then drops.   I am going to hunt down the screw for that one.

At least get a parts manual so you can see the exploded views rather than just wondering if something is out there and hoping you might then have a way to fix/adjust/find it.  Often times the exploded views in the parts manual are more and faster help than the descriptions in the service manuals anyway.

[kojack]

awesome.  thanks brother,  you are awesome.   the one in the front is the "hot" idle and the one on top is the cold idle I assume?

[Twolanerider]

awesome.  thanks brother,  you are awesome.   the one in the front is the "hot" idle and the one on top is the cold idle I assume?

That's affirmed.

[kojack]

thanks brother.  I will figure this stuff out.   Time to get her back on the lift and go through it again.

[FLTRI]

I am my indy.   I just never adjusted a  MM before.   I never touched the two screws that are covered in epoxy.  I know better than that.   So,  the single t8 screw I have been adjusting,  adjusts both cold and hot idle?

First, the two epoxied screws are nothing more than idle air bleed for each cylinder. If you have a stock engine the is no reason to consider adjust these.
If you have a modified engine the ECM has no way to adjust for the changes.
All you have is a power commander that can add or remove fuel and timing.
Idle control, warm up steps, etc are not adjustable with a power commander.
This is one reason for all the conversions to carbs.
The other reason is a complete misunderstanding how the MM actually works and folks get to twisting screws and end up with a mess. I've seen and corrected many of the MM bikes after too many cook ruined the stew.
Like I said these are very difficult to get right with engine mods..even for the seasoned tuner.
This is why I suggested you have a guy who really understands the system to at least help you with idle speed control through the temp range.
But good luck in any event,
Bob

[MLCRISIS]

There are several good threads out there concerning switching these "classics" to carbs. Seems like it can be done relatively cheap. Depends on how long you plan on keeping the old girl. Other option is the T Maxx. I have that setup on my 01 SERG, came with the bike, runs very good. Don't know if I would have sprung for it as they are not cheap.