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[kojack]

First, the two epoxied screws are nothing more than idle air bleed for each cylinder. If you have a stock engine the is no reason to consider adjust these.
If you have a modified engine the ECM has no way to adjust for the changes.
All you have is a power commander that can add or remove fuel and timing.
Idle control, warm up steps, etc are not adjustable with a power commander.
This is one reason for all the conversions to carbs.
The other reason is a complete misunderstanding how the MM actually works and folks get to twisting screws and end up with a mess. I've seen and corrected many of the MM bikes after too many cook ruined the stew.
Like I said these are very difficult to get right with engine mods..even for the seasoned tuner.
This is why I suggested you have a guy who really understands the system to at least help you with idle speed control through the temp range.
But good luck in any event,
Bob

Thank you bob.  yes my engine is modified.   It is ported with 211 cams. 

This issue I have,  and have mentioned many times is there is NO ONE within traveling distances that is able to work on MM bikes. I know more about the MM fuel injector system than the 2 local dealers, that's why I am learning.  I want to make it run right.  I am very technically minded.   I have a mind for figuring out things.  If I don't know,  I ask.  I am a question asker.   I guess without the scanalyzer I cannot adjust the air bleeds to make it run correctly with my mods.   I am not converting to carb,  that's a step backward in technology that I am done with. 

I have read that a performance inc.  throttle body makes tuning the MM much easier as its a different setup all together.  That is a last ditch effort however.   

I have read about the voltage method of adjusting idle.  how is that any different than setting each idle point using your tach as a guage?   What do I connect my Meter to?  are there leads etc to connect to?  I did raise the warm idle....ALOT,  and I know I did adjust it a fair amount on the screw.  But I guess The bike was not completely warm when I adjusted it I guess.  Pulled the fuses and bam.  1400-1500 rpm warm idle.   Now that I know that I can dial it in better.   

next up is the cold idle.  Another quick question Do I adjust the cold idle first? or does it matter.  I am close to having my warm idle nailed.  At least it stays running when I stop now.  ha ha.

When it gets down to 950 rpm every now and then a loud squeak comes from the front cyl.  I have a video of it,  it sounds the same if there was a digital glitch in the video,  but its my engine.  idle it up and it goes away.  Its like the motor stumbles and a squeak comes out of it.

[skratch]

When it gets down to 950 rpm every now and then a loud squeak comes from the front cyl.  I have a video of it,  it sounds the same if there was a digital glitch in the video,  but its my engine.  idle it up and it goes away.  Its like the motor stumbles and a squeak comes out of it.

could it be that when the idle gets down that low, the vibrations increase, causing the front motor mount rubber to squeak?

[kojack]

It really sounds like its coming from the intake.....I have a video but no way to post it.

[Unbalanced]

Post your video on YouTube then put the link here    

[kojack]

Ok,  Another update.  I watched the video and how everything works.  I now have cold/hot idle issues fixed besides my hot idle is a little low for my liking but that's ok.  I can adjust that easy.   Next up is the plug wires to see if that cures the sumple/hesitation etc.  Once I get the plug wires on I will report back.  I will also try to get the video posted as well.  Maybe the plug wires will fix up some more of the issues I have.  I know the bike starts and runs better since correctly adjusting the idle. 

[kojack]

I am guessing a lot of my problem is/was the TPS was out of wack.  Its dialed in now and the bike runs much better,  sounds much better and can lope along at 2000 ish rpm.   I am thinking with new plug wires I should be really pleased.  There is less popping on deceleration and less hesitation on acceleration.  I would like to give thanks to people who helped me out and gave me direction.  I now have a better understanding of the MM than both Harley dealerships now.  They are friggin quirky,  but are able to be tuned back to health.  I was never going to carb where I had to pull a choke, warm it up,  then keep it running with choke etc until warm.  She starts cold,  sits at 2 until she is all happy and warmed up.  then idles on the road at 1000 rpm.

Tomorrow is lift the tank, and install the wires.   Hopfully with a little more tuning in the PCIII,  I shall have it pretty well dialed by weeks end.

[Ironhorse]

There is less popping on deceleration

You may have already done this, but one thing you may want to do to get rid of the rest of the decel popping is check for exhaust leaks. Those are as notorious as intake leaks and even the slightest leak can affect the way it runs.

Here's what I do. Using a long neck Bic clicker, I start from the front and work back. With the bike running at idle, I work the flame all around the flanges and joints. Start from the head and work to the muffler. If at any time the flame dances, that means you have a leak there. If you are lucky all you need do is tighten down the clamps and bolts.

Good luck and I admire your doggedness in problem solving. My old MM bike drove me nuts. In the end I had to install the Zippers Thundermax kit. I should have went with a carb as it would have been cheaper.

[kojack]

I am planning to change out the exhaust to the fullsac header and some mufflers over this winter.  I am going to take it on a good shake down run today and hopefully it will be running much better.

[kojack]

Everytime I add something,  it keeps running better.  I added some more fuel in the low and mid range and installed the plug wires today.  I still have a hiccup every so often while crusing at around 2000-2200 rpm,  higher and its fine.  baffling to me really.  Maybe the crank sensor?  Other than that its running smooth.  I am changing the fluids tomorrow and get amsoil in there.  WIll make a big difference to smoothness as well.