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[Gank]

Ok I have a pretty stock 2000 SERG with the 96 CI engine.  It has approx 40,000 miles on it.  The PO put in a Commander Engine control system.

The problem
When I put it away last Nov, I filled the tank with premium fuel and fuel stabilizer, on a trickle charger.

I took it out of storage two weeks ago, and it started fine.  I have put 123 miles on it, but I have noticed that for the first mile or so, the engine sounds likes its switching from 1 to 2 cylinders and backfiring, then when it heats up, its great

Today I role about 10 miles, added some new fuel, octane boost and some fuel injector cleaner, and it runs like crap.

The engine surges, sounds like its running on two cylinders then back to one.

Last year I had the fuel lines replaced with new braided lines replacing the old rubber ones. 

Any ideas?  fuel pump?  Dirty fuel filter?  Is the Commander module acting up?

cheers

[Twolanerider]

Ok I have a pretty stock 2000 SERG with the 96 CI engine.  It has approx 40,000 miles on it.  The PO put in a Commander Engine control system.

The problem
When I put it away last Nov, I filled the tank with premium fuel and fuel stabilizer, on a trickle charger.

I took it out of storage two weeks ago, and it started fine.  I have put 123 miles on it, but I have noticed that for the first mile or so, the engine sounds likes its switching from 1 to 2 cylinders and backfiring, then when it heats up, its great

Today I role about 10 miles, added some new fuel, octane boost and some fuel injector cleaner, and it runs like crap.

The engine surges, sounds like its running on two cylinders then back to one.

Last year I had the fuel lines replaced with new braided lines replacing the old rubber ones. 

Any ideas?  fuel pump?  Dirty fuel filter?  Is the Commander module acting up?

cheers

Unfortunately the only answer anyone could give remotely based on all that's described is: "yeah sure, could be anything you mentioned." 

That being so start off with what you can that is easy and cheap to try.  Unplug the Power Commander and take it out of the loop.  If the bike runs immediately and obviously different you've found your culprit.  If that's not it; keep looking.  Along with the things you've mentioned also include cam position sensor, crank sensor, plug wires, coil and anything else I've forgotten.  While some things may be much more likely than others you can't dismiss anything.

[Gank]

Thanks, I'll start with the commander today.  I really dont want to take this to the stealership.

[Joel]

A cold engine will requier more fuel and if the filter did trap sediments than the pressure may be right but the volumm could be low. If the filter has never been changed it needs to be.
Another thing is when a spark plug gets old or some carbon is on the electrode, voltage will find the easiest path to ground, when you remove the spark plugs look at the porclin for any dark line traveling from top to bottom, look inside the wire boot with a flashlight for any line inside of them, if on either than replace both plugs and wires.
If my bike was doing as you decribe with the milage yours has,  I would start with the filter, plugs and wires. These are things that do cause the symptoms your bike has.
Another thought is have you cleaned both battery cable connections and ground cable to frame?
Poor grounding will affect sensor and computer operations.

[Gank]

The plugs and wires got replaced two years ago, maybe 7,000 miles on them, but will look at all you have pointed out, thanks

[Unbalanced]

Turn the ignition on and listen for gurgling from the gas tank may have holes in lines cause lack or intermittent fuel pressure issues.

Check for intake leak this will cause stalling.

I doubt it's a 96" btw prolly a 95"

Unconnected the power commander see if the bike idles.

Check the fuel line pressure should be if memory serves 52-58 pounds

Next you check to see if the throttle body set screw moved you should have about .003 under the throttle blade for air to come in to idle.

Also clean the IAC sensor.   Intake air control sensor

Hope you find the cause.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HD Street Performance]

Harry, you have good points but this is a Marelli injected bike so it will need a proper adjustment of the stepper, throttle position sensor, and air bleeds cleaned. Be sure to check the tank filter after the checks mentioned by unbalanced

[popsracing]

And never use fuel stabilizer the stuff is garbage...your gas will be fine over the winter without any additive.

[grc]

And never use fuel stabilizer the stuff is garbage...your gas will be fine over the winter without any additive.

Very bad advice my friend.  Considering what's in modern gasoline, storing a bike for several months with just pump gas in the tank with no stabilizer is asking for trouble.  You'd be better off draining the entire fuel system.

Jerry

[RonandJanet]

Yes if you have ethanol (most do) in your gas you must add additive or you will have problems.  I have to add stabilizer to my gas for the yard equipment and boats too. Anything that is going to sit for a while (around 2 months and more) add the stabilizer to insure it will run later! Small cost compared to the work to repair. 

[hrdtail78]

I would pull the pump and ECM fuse and let it sit for 15 minute.  This procedure needs to be performed every time the battery is disconnected or went low.  This can really screw up the warm up area, but doesn't affect a warmed up engine as much. 

[popsracing]

Very bad advice my friend.  Considering what's in modern gasoline, storing a bike for several months with just pump gas in the tank with no stabilizer is asking for trouble.  You'd be better off draining the entire fuel system.

Jerry

Used Stabil once about ten yrs ago in my mower and it crystallized in the carb...if you look at the cap of a bottle of it that's been sitting on the shelf for a while you'll see what i'm talking about...I have used Lucas Oil Stabilizer with no ill effects but not sure if it did any good or not...I've been storing everything over the winter with nothing added and have yet to have a problem so I say stabilizer is not needed.

[bigchuck]

As others have said start with the spark plugs. They can tell you a story. "Look first where the light is best" meaning start with the easy/cheap stuff first. Don't make it harder than it has to be. Personally I'd put a set of plugs in and check plug wires and go from there. It's always a good idea to have an extra set of spark plugs in your saddlebag, so if they don't fix the problem you still haven't wasted any money.

[Gank]

Thanks  I will do so this week, there is a local mechanic Im going to take it too if I cant resolve it myself

[Unbalanced]

This maybe over the top but when checking the sparkplugs if yours have a screw on cap validate that the caps are on tight.   While playing with the PV last week we found a spark that one of the caps was only on by a thread but hidden by the wire from plain sight so I would suggest removing the spark plug and check the top as well.

[Gank]

Tahnks for all the help
I started with the wires, that are only three years old, and they looked fine
I changed the plugs, the front one was really black and covered in soot
The rear was worn but normal
I then cleaned the air filter cause it was full of oil

NO CHANGE

So off comes the bags, off comes the seat, off comes the power commander.

Bike works great.  This is an old old power commander, must be an original.  There is a repair center here in town I will take it too to see if its repairable or just a paper weight

So my Harley is running nice again, without the expensive trip to the Stealership... and my son is happy cause my spare bike, the concours is his to ride with me.

Win Win Win situation

[Unbalanced]

before you take the pc3 in see if you can connect it to your computer and pull the map out of it.  If you have to replace it, it might save you having to get the bike re-tuned.