After reading this and other posts about the 110 longevity, what else besides replacing lifters would need to be done to extend the life of the motor to 100K miles?
On my 2004 FLHTCSE, I had the Timken bearing upgrade done, switched to gear cams (adj push rods and new lifters) crank was to out of tolerance so went with S&S crank, fueling cam back plate and oil pump. Bike had 69K and ran strong when I sold it.
Would something similar need to be done to the 110?
Ride safe!
Yes, but different
Understand that the 110 is just a 103 with different heads and cams.
That said the heads carry heavy big valves and have a design that contributes along with the fast lift rate cam that pushes components such as the lifters and cam bearings to their limit and failures occur prematurely. Lean mixture and high cylinder pressures seal the deal and make things worse.
What to do:
Assumption #1 is the rings are sealing well and the cylinders are not distorted. Pull the barrels and measure! If bad go right to 113 or 117". If good clean and reinstall with new HD base oring kit.
Assumption #2 is there have neen no bearing or other failures that could have metal traveling. If that happened GMR gave a good description what needs to happen in the Nikasil thread. Full teardown
Have the heads gone through, new Bronze Manganese guides, serdi valve job, replacement conical or beehive springs with less rate and pressure, and premium viton seals. Replace valves as needed. Chambers CCd. The head chambers can be quite different on heads from the same motor, have them measured and fixed.
Replace the lifters with US made premium Delphis, S&S, or Johnson HiLift. Replace the inner cam bearings with HD torringtons or other premium full compliment needle bearings such as INA. Use HD adjustable pushrods 18404-08 or Smith Bros. Purchase "rocker lockers". Check the rocker bushings and shafts, replace with OEM as needed. Check oil pump, cam plate, and tensioners, replace with OEM parts as needed.
Check crank run out. My rule of thumb with a chain drive cam motor is <.006. Over that and we talk. New S&S crank is easy and works. A timken conversion is not needed unless this is going to a motor that gets pounded.
Bearings replaced with OEM if the bottom end is disassembled.
Finishing touches, cam choice. To go 100K miles I would go with a grind that is known to have conservative ramps such as Andrews and S&S cams. Assuming this is a nearly stock motor with no head porting no need to look at the cam as any more than a factory replacement. A little more duration is desirable. My needs are similar and as an example I chose an Andrews 54, pretty plain vanilla. Understand that all that said a cam chest inspection at ~every 30K is wise, better yet is preemptive maintenance, replace the lifters while there. Change the oil and filter every 5k. Use synthetic after a break-in on mineral based oil, 15-40
Get the bike professionally tuned with a flash tuner. It does not need to be rich and overly rich is as bad as overly lean. A good professional knows all this.
Covered some basics, there are some other minor details but this is a start.
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Topic: CVO 110 Engine Longevity (Read 31113 times)