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[papahead03]

So I just installed new cams, lifters, rocker lockers, and the added a fueling oil relief spring and plunger. I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge also. First start up it pegged at 60psi after about 5-10 seconds. Every time I start it climbs up but I kill it beforehand re it pegs. If I tweak the throttle doesn’t seem to rise any faster. If I leave the throttle alone it starts running like crap after 10 seconds and dies. Took the relief spring out and cleaned the plunder and bore. Nothing seemed wrong. I’ve seen other posts talk about orings. Is that a possibility? I also read that the reli f doesn’t come into play at idle so it’s most likely not the problem either. Anybody able to narrow it down at all for me?

[CVO Couple]

Have you remapped the the ecm for the cam change? Oil pressure seems ok for cold oil.


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[papahead03]

Oil pressure pegging at 60 is ok when cold? Ok I’ll check on that. As far as dying yes I remapped the ecm but I’m sure it could use some tweaks. I’m just not sure about that oil pressure. Pretty sure I’m getting some oil in the cylinder now cause I’ve pulled my brand new plugs every time I crank it. They’re black as hell and there is oil in the threads. I gave up last night in favor of sleep. I’ll pull the plugs and clean them and the treads when I get home. I will say this, it was down in the 40s and 50s this weekend and the oil did seem thick. But it still has me worried being that high. I’m worried to run it long enough to warm up cause I don’t want to blow any seals. I took my time on this build making sure I didn’t screw anything up. About a day and a half total. Not to mention everything else I did cosmetically. The oil cooler. Suspension and frame stabilizers.  No the cooler is not my problem that’s the first place I went, I already pulled it to run without and it didn’t change. Rewiring a few things. I spent every night for a week and a half working on this thing sometimes all night and just shower and go to work. The family keeps saying they miss me. And just when the ol lady thought she was getting me back cause she heard it start up, she walks out to me cussing and taking her back apart.

[HD Street Performance]

What is "pegged"? If it is 60 that is OK, if it is 80+ that is not. I would simply put the stock spring back in and move on. The twin cam does not need any additional pressure over what a good stock pump and plate provide. I do see the value of a better plunger that as a precision machined valve to seal better but no value to a heavier spring. One of the functions of the oil pressure relief is to regulate oil pressure when the oil is cold and highest viscosity. If somebody want to spend the money to get a Thayer or S&S 3 stage system now you have actually improved the oiling system by means of better scavenging and gear fit so they provide higher low speed pressure. Next step up a larger sump which helps reduce aeration. Just my opinion in the sea of them. Any internet post with the word "oil" will cause controversy in my experience.
The bike needs to be tuned and the intake seals checked for leaks. I would also do a sumping check, pulling the sump plug after 30 seconds idling, and see if the pump change was successful, no pinched suction orings. But the bike has to idle properly first. One quick check would be to start it, raise the idle, and let it sit at 2000 until it got some heat in it and shut it off. Check the oil on the dipstick and see if it is all still there, same reading on the stick as before the running.

[papahead03]

What is "pegged"? If it is 60 that is OK, if it is 80+ that is not. I would simply put the stock spring back in and move on. The twin cam does not need any additional pressure over what a good stock pump and plate provide. I do see the value of a better plunger that as a precision machined valve to seal better but no value to a heavier spring. One of the functions of the oil pressure relief is to regulate oil pressure when the oil is cold and highest viscosity. If somebody want to spend the money to get a Thayer or S&S 3 stage system now you have actually improved the oiling system by means of better scavenging and gear fit so they provide higher low speed pressure. Next step up a larger sump which helps reduce aeration. Just my opinion in the sea of them. Any internet post with the word "oil" will cause controversy in my experience.
The bike needs to be tuned and the intake seals checked for leaks. I would also do a sumping check, pulling the sump plug after 30 seconds idling, and see if the pump change was successful, no pinched suction orings. But the bike has to idle properly first. One quick check would be to start it, raise the idle, and let it sit at 2000 until it got some heat in it and shut it off. Check the oil on the dipstick and see if it is all still there, same reading on the stick as before the running.

Thank you. I’m not sure what pegged is because the gauge only goes to 60. I shut it off when it got that high for fear of damage. If I understand correctly, check for sumping, if there is no sumping issue then more than likely everything is probably ok? Could the breather cause high oil pressure? I changed out the screens and umbrella flaps. Had to change those orings underneath since I had it apart. I threw a tune on the bike for my build but I haven’t taken it out for an auto tune run yet. I’m a mechanic by trade, but first Harley I’ve torn into so, and it’s mine, so I’m nervous about doing something wrong.


And yes I know oil discussions stir the pot. I tried reading ever post I could find but none really had my specific symptoms that I could tell. I waited until I couldn’t think of anything else to do. My manual just says check the pump and hoses for blockages. But it also says to get it to operating temp first and I just have been fun shy on running it too long. Maybe I’m overreacting based on fear of screwing up my bike, but I can’t afford to throw anymore money into it right now. I trimmed the spring a little last night after reading on the fueling page about their spring. Didn’t seem to do anything, but once again it’s still cold so the spring probably doesn’t have anything to do with it yet. Lost the stock spring during the build. Spent a half hour last night tossing the tool boxes trying to find it. Guess it got tossed in the trash with the old gasket pile or something.

[HD Street Performance]

There are some easy things to check for sanity. Feeling slight pressure coming out the breather holes, good, they are a one way valve. Checking the oil level as I described. Fix the idle issue right in the shop before going for a ride, what tuning device? Is this idle issue cold only? Check the OP with a higher limit mechanical gauge.

[CVO Couple]

Breather assembly is unrelated to oil pressure. Breathers can be install improperly and cause problems.


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[papahead03]

There are some easy things to check for sanity. Feeling slight pressure coming out the breather holes, good, they are a one way valve. Checking the oil level as I described. Fix the idle issue right in the shop before going for a ride, what tuning device? Is this idle issue cold only? Check the OP with a higher limit mechanical gauge.

Thanks. I just got off the phone with Jim? at Fuelmoto. Got the cams and tuner from there. PV1 tuner. He said my bike needs to relearn fuel trims so that could be the problem with the idle. Or the IAC now that it’s asking for different values than it wanted before. Either way he said run it and let it learn then go from there. Same with the oil pressure. He said let it get warm and then see what I have. Said his bike gets pretty high with cold weather and thick oil until it warms up. Worst that could happen is blow one of the orings and maybe shoot some oil out the breather right? Hopefully. I do have a 100psi gauge I was planning on throwing on there tonight so I could see how high it’s going. Just have to finish the money making work so I can go home and do the fun work. Will definitely check for sumping before I go though. Checking the oil level and drain the sump. Thanks for the advice looks like I just have to ride her out and take the chance.

[papahead03]

Breather assembly is unrelated to oil pressure. Breathers can be install improperly and cause problems.


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Well here’s hoping I got it right. Like I said I’ve taken my time at each step trying to make sure I got it right. Unlike my last clutch job where I was so confident I was good that I didn’t test it after I was done. Found out when my buddy needed to go somewhere and o rolled out of his garage that it wasn’t good. Spent 2 days bleeding and rebleeding my hydraulic clutch, has the primary back open 3 more times. First I found I missed getting the back plate from the old clutch out. Put it all back together still wouldn’t work. Finally realized I  Put the back spacer ring in the front. 2 days over that mess because I was confident and rushed. Not this time. Double cleaned everything before I installed it. Even went and bought an in/lb torque wrench. I never messed with in/lb torque specs on anything before and I’ve been wrenching for a living over 20 years. German specs and loctite was always good enough for me. Not on this project. I double checked all torques before I wrenched it down. Went by the torque pattern too. You can imagine my frustration when I was so meticulous and still seem like I have issues.

[papahead03]

There are some easy things to check for sanity. Feeling slight pressure coming out the breather holes, good, they are a one way valve. Checking the oil level as I described. Fix the idle issue right in the shop before going for a ride, what tuning device? Is this idle issue cold only? Check the OP with a higher limit mechanical gauge.

Found the stock spring. I put it back in last night. Doesn’t look like that much oil coming out when I open the case up but I’m still gonna check it after I run it at normal temp. One of my idle problems is I forgot to have them add the cams to my tube so timing is probably a little off. Put my 100psi gauge on so I’ll know for sure what pressure when I run it. I’m gonna double check my valve lash before I run it but other than that I think I’m ready to go. Gradually getting a warm and fuzzy about my work. Thanks for the advice. By the way it says you’re a vendor. What type and where at?