BP;
Here's what I used on my '07 SERK CaCo Blue (the nicer color!).
1. Custom Passing Lamp Bracket Kit HD part # 69227-04A $283.95 ( I chose this style as I didn't care for the type with bottom tubular support strut --as in the above pic)
2. Auxillary Lamp Bulb Kit(pair) HD part # 68348-05 $67.95 (The reflector style on these matches the SERK's headlight reflector, and they have replaceable halogen bulbs)
3. Passing Lamp(pair)
VISOR STYLE Trim Rings HD part # 69732-05 $45.95 (I chose this style of retaining ring/light molding/trim ring--other styles will work)
4. Hardware Kit HD part # 69235-04 $ 9.95 (Required for bikes with quick detach windshield. Merely longer bolts.)
And to help you avoid the several 'snags' I experienced, here are some tips:
1. Do not leave the dealership with out the trim or retaining rings!! My dealer's parts man didn't tell me they weren't included in the kit, and the outside labeling on the box does not say they
are NOT included in the kit! The kit's directions tell you to REUSE your old trim rings and lighting elements! What, they assume all people already have existing aux. lights and are just changing
bracket styles? Grrrrrr. One extra trip to the dealer.
2. The stock bike has acorn nuts on studs for the existing windshield docking hardware. The needed hardware kit (part # 69235-040 has longer (1/4" maybe) torx driven screws. If you want to preserve the look of the acorn style nuts, one will either have to track down longer studs or fashion your own from threaded rod. I can't remember the pitch just now). To remove the studs I tightened two compatibly threaded nuts(tighten against each other) onto the outer threaded portion of the stud to remove them. Some came out with the acorn nut, but others didn't. There was some type of thread lock compound on them and I reapplied some on reassembly. You know how these bikes vibrate.
3. There are two spacers (thick washers) included in the hardware of the passing lamp kit, and these must be located as indicated in the directions on the lower mounting bolts only( none on the top two ) between the windshield docking grommet(bushing) and the nacelle. The single very thick washer is not used on our bikes.
4. Make sure you tighten the nylon lock nut on the bottom of each lamp housing stud securely enough (but not so tight that you can't reposition the lights) BEFORE you thread the wire through the hollow stud, otherwise you won't be able to fit a socket to retighten later when you find out they are not tight enough to maintain position. I had to modify an open end wrench so I wouldn't have to disassemble everything.
5. Like you, I did NOT relocate my turn signals. I felt that being further apart up on the handlebars was better and I didn't want to mess with the internal bar wiring. So I 'plugged' the unused open
holes (in the brackets) with the torx head screws (and nuts) intended for the turnsignal's mounting on the new bracket. You will have the "directional standoff" part leftover from each side.
6. I leave the actual routing of the wires to you, but once inside your headlight, you will want to tie your new light's single (per side) grey wire into the auxillary switch located on the right rear of your nacelle (referenced from the operator's position). My bike has an unused switch on each side and the dealer was no help in telling me which one was to be used.
I've attached a few pics. If you need any other guidance you can PM me as needed.
Have fun.
leoniru