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Author Topic: Heat Demons  (Read 37297 times)

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Midnight Rider

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Heat Demons
« on: August 05, 2007, 11:39:14 PM »

Well, looks like I am the first to get these installed...worked on it off and on yesterday afternoon and today.  Sorry, no pictures...Diva is visiting her daughter in Tampa, so did not have a photographer to document the event.  I'll try and hit the high points...this is for 06/07 bikes that already have the heated grips...earlier/different models would be virtually the same process.  Since we have internal wiring, IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO DRILL ANY HOLES IN THE BARS!!  All wires from the new controller will fit into the existing holes for the switch harnesses.

On the Batwings, remove outer fairing, radio, CB, XM, etc to gain access to the middle part of the handlebars...you will need the space to pull the wires.  Remove clutch and brake reservoir/levers and let them dangle by the lines.  Take the screws out of the switch covers on both sides and let them dangle as well.  I installed the Heat Demon switch on the right side, as I already have the Legend Air switch on the left.  It will work both ways...the instructions assume you are putting it on the left, taking the place of the clutch assembly clamp.  DO NOT forget to put a spacer between the brake lever and the brake switch on the right side before removing (a piece of cardboard box works well, about 1" square).  If you have non functioning HD heated grips on the bike, unplug the connections  where the wiring comes out of the hole in the middle of the bars, on top of the bar risers.  If you've ever thought about changing bars, now would be a good time to do so, as this would be much easier on the bench than mounted on the bike.  I just clipped the connectors off the stock grips to use for the new heater connections.  Yank, pull, cuss the old grips off the bike, after releasing throttle cable tension, and removing cables from old grips. 

The little flat plastic fish tape they provide actually works quite well for fishing the wires...just wet it with a bit of Windex prior to inserting...this will provide a bit of lubricant to help it slide past all the other wires in the bars.  Push fish tape in whichever end you're putting the controller on, and out the other end...fairly easy.  Pull the yellow and white wires on one of the heating elements through to the other side, leaving spare hanging out the end.  Insert this element inside the end of the bar, then pull the slack out from the other end.  The elements fit tightly...put the gap on bottom so all the heat will travel upwards through the metal.  After they are inserted, the gap is small...maybe 1/4", if that.

Insert fish tape from the controller end until you can pull it out of the middle hole in the bars, on top of the risers.  Pull red and black power wires into bars...excess wire inside the fairing, leaving about 4 or 5 inches hanging out the controller end.  Insert controller wires into existing switch harness holes, and push out the end of the bar.  I put a piece of shrink wrap on the controller wires in case of chaffing. You should now have Yellow, White, Black, Red, and all the controller wires hanging out the controller side of the bars.  Make all connections on the controller, and elements...I used the little connectors provided.  They actually worked quite well, and I'm not a big fan of those type things, but these are different than I've used before, containing dialectic grease that squeezes out when you've got them right.

On my bike, I then wired up the old power supply for the HD heated grips to the Red and Black wires (they are shrink wrapped).  If you look at the wiring diagram, the triangular shaped Deutch connector has Black, Red, O/W wires...you only need the Black and Red...they are fed from the 5 amp fuse on the main fuse block.  Others will need to find a different switched connection to power everything up.  It's a good idea at this point to wire everything up and test operation of the controller and heating elements.  I used jumpers to do this.  This power supply is hot when the ignition switch is in the on position, or to the Accy position, so if you play your radio while it's cold weather and you're washing/servicing your scoot, and you've had the heaters on, don't forget to turn them off!!  They pull 3 Amps, so the 5 Amp fuse should be just right.

After everything checks out, make your final connections up, then insert the heating element for the controller side of the bars into the end of the bar, folding up all the wires on the inside of the element, then just stick it all in.  This concerned me a bit, but the inside of the element does not get hot enough to damage the wiring (let's hope).

Put everything back together, adjust controlls to suit you, ensure the throttle cables are functioning fully, adjust as needed.  You might lube the cables while you've got this all apart, and grease the steering neck too.  Sew it all back up and you're done.

Not a hard job, just aggravating, so grab a couple of brewskies, smoke 'em if you got 'em, and take your time.

The heaters work really well!!!  I think they get a bit hotter than the HD grips did, even when they were new.  There are four settings on the controller, amber, amber, red, red, then off.  If the LED's are too bright to suit you, hold the switch down for 3 seconds and the next time you switch them on, they will be much dimmer....probably nice for night operation.

I'm really going to enjoy these, and hope they are the last heaters I have to fool with on the bike.  Pretty simple parts, but effective.  Time will tell on the durability, but if they last, these will be nice for all bikes, not just the baggers. :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
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RJ749

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2007, 11:42:32 PM »

7 year warranty, I hope the grips are covered under it, I'm not sure I can buy enough beer to do that job. :huepfenlol2:
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2007, 11:56:49 PM »

7 year warranty, I hope the grips are covered under it, I'm not sure I can buy enough beer to do that job. :huepfenlol2:

The grips are covered, Rog....but because of my mods to the Legend Switch, and running it internally through the bars, I didn't want the richard head HD tech inside my bars.  Something would have come back broken.
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hard10

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2007, 11:57:06 PM »

7 year warranty, I hope the grips are covered under it, I'm not sure I can buy enough beer to do that job. :huepfenlol2:

I'm thankful I've got that 7 year warranty!

RJ749

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2007, 12:42:22 AM »

The grips are covered, Rog....but because of my mods to the Legend Switch, and running it internally through the bars, I didn't want the richard head HD tech inside my bars.  Something would have come back broken.

I know that feeling.  I can understand the concern.  I'm on my first set of replacements now.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2007, 01:07:43 AM »

Terry, instead of pulling the radio and moving everything else around it (granted, that's more hassle in my case than most others) might it be easier to just quickly pull the tank and fairing cap?  That'd give good access to the bottom of the bars too.
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2007, 11:37:36 AM »

Terry, instead of pulling the radio and moving everything else around it (granted, that's more hassle in my case than most others) might it be easier to just quickly pull the tank and fairing cap?  That'd give good access to the bottom of the bars too.

Don...It would be a tight fit for the hand to get between the bottom of the inner fairing and access the hole in the middle of the bars.  The opening on my bars is facing the front of the bike and is also angled down a bit.  I don't think I could have found the fish tape had I not had plain view of the wiring coming out of the bars in the middle...and with both harnesses for the switches coming out there, it a pretty nice wad of wires, so there's not much room to see/feel what's happening there.  If you can see under the radio with the outer fairing off, it might help a bit.  The only wire in your case that would be an issue there is the power supply wire, so you just might be able to get that one to feed out by doing it the way you are thinking.  If you have enough access to feed the fish tape from the middle part of the bars to the end for the controller, you'll be good to go. You just have to pull the small power wire in there.  With my bike, pulling the radio out is not a huge deal, as I've "practiced" a few times. Is that making any sense?

I had to do some additional work with my Legend Switch...found a potential short in the wiring because of my modifications...it's good to go now though, but had to pull the wires back out and reroute them back to the inside of the bars a different way.  I'd been having one of those intermittant problems on the bleed side of the system...found the cause.  It's bullet proof now, but that was a bugger to pull back through.  Legend now offers a switch with 1" on one side of the switch and 1 1/4" on the other (right hand) side.  They did basically what I did to make it fit bars like ours, except they use a lathe instead of a hand held Dremel tool... ;)
« Last Edit: August 06, 2007, 11:42:30 AM by TCnBham »
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I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

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Twolanerider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2007, 12:19:21 PM »

Don...It would be a tight fit for the hand to get between the bottom of the inner fairing and access the hole in the middle of the bars.  The opening on my bars is facing the front of the bike and is also angled down a bit.  I don't think I could have found the fish tape had I not had plain view of the wiring coming out of the bars in the middle...and with both harnesses for the switches coming out there, it a pretty nice wad of wires, so there's not much room to see/feel what's happening there.  If you can see under the radio with the outer fairing off, it might help a bit.  The only wire in your case that would be an issue there is the power supply wire, so you just might be able to get that one to feed out by doing it the way you are thinking.  If you have enough access to feed the fish tape from the middle part of the bars to the end for the controller, you'll be good to go. You just have to pull the small power wire in there.  With my bike, pulling the radio out is not a huge deal, as I've "practiced" a few times. Is that making any sense?

I had to do some additional work with my Legend Switch...found a potential short in the wiring because of my modifications...it's good to go now though, but had to pull the wires back out and reroute them back to the inside of the bars a different way.  I'd been having one of those intermittant problems on the bleed side of the system...found the cause.  It's bullet proof now, but that was a bugger to pull back through.  Legend now offers a switch with 1" on one side of the switch and 1 1/4" on the other (right hand) side.  They did basically what I did to make it fit bars like ours, except they use a lathe instead of a hand held Dremel tool... ;)

Thanks TC.  You're describing exactly what I was expecting. 

I paid particular attention when doing the power saddlebag locks.  With the tank out of the way and the fairing cap removed there was access to that hole in the bottom center of the bars.  Not great access.  But access.

Since it's such a quick thing to at least try it that way I likely will when the time comes.  Doing it from front on mine is more of a chore.  Someone never left good enough alone and all kinds of stuff has migrated in their. 
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2007, 12:36:42 PM »

Thanks TC.  You're describing exactly what I was expecting. 

I paid particular attention when doing the power saddlebag locks.  With the tank out of the way and the fairing cap removed there was access to that hole in the bottom center of the bars.  Not great access.  But access.

Since it's such a quick thing to at least try it that way I likely will when the time comes.  Doing it from front on mine is more of a chore.  Someone never left good enough alone and all kinds of stuff has migrated in their. 

I've had the cap off, but not the tank at the same time, so can't relate to that one.  If you can stick the fish tape in there and have enough leverage to push it, you'll be fine that way.  Running the wires from one end of the bars to the other was not a big deal at all.
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I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

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Fullsac X Pipe w/2" Baffles
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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2007, 12:40:10 PM »

I've had the cap off, but not the tank at the same time, so can't relate to that one.  If you can stick the fish tape in there and have enough leverage to push it, you'll be fine that way.  Running the wires from one end of the bars to the other was not a big deal at all.

Was hoping the one-end-to-other pull wouldn't be a huge chore.  I don't even have the Legends wiring added in. 

From what I looked at previously I think access will be good enough with the tank out of the way.  If so that will be a much easier approach on the red bike.
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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2007, 02:01:56 PM »

TC-

Thanks for the excellent write up as usual.  Be a fall/winter project for me.  Just when I thought I wouldn't have to pull the outer fairing/radio again.     :-\
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2007, 03:38:32 PM »

TC-

Thanks for the excellent write up as usual.  Be a fall/winter project for me.  Just when I thought I wouldn't have to pull the outer fairing/radio again.     :-\

See how Don's install goes, or another SEEG bike...there's really only the two little wires in the black shrink wrap that must come out of the middle hole on the bars.  Might be able to do it by removing the inner lower, as he mentions.  If you've already got heated grips though, I'd pull the fairing to make getting to those connectors easier.
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2007, 11:06:33 PM »

Terry,  as usual, great report.  Thanks.  One question.  When installing the Heat Demons, do you reuse your old grips, or are they replaced?
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2007, 10:41:28 AM »

Terry,  as usual, great report.  Thanks.  One question.  When installing the Heat Demons, do you reuse your old grips, or are they replaced?

You have to replace, Henry.  The heated grips have the rheostat in the left grip...looks like...well, it looks like a small dildo attached to the inside of the grip.  At any rate, all the wires, etc render the old grips useless, plus, you wouldn't want the knob on the left grip still on there when it's not functioning.

I elected to go with the Stealth collection non-heated grips, mostly because they fit my hand well, and I wanted to maintain the stock match to the floorboards, pegs, etc.  Plus, I like the fact that the HD grips do not require glue on the left grip.  Many of the grips I tried out were too fat for my hands, so my selection was somewhat limited.  My second choice would have been the Aileron (sp?) grips by HD...they were actually very comfortable, but I was unsure about the way they would look on the bike.
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

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spydglide

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Re: Heat Demons
« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2007, 01:18:21 PM »

thanks, TC.  I may just have to ride to B'ham.  :P har!  :huepfenlol2: spyder
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