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[Twolanerider]

Jim,

Any photos of that?

I guess I need to have my bars come back about 2-3 inches and up about 2. Reading the above post from Spiderman it sounds like the 10" may be the ones but as always I am concerned about the looks too.........

[Robmay]

Wow. That looks a little tall for me. Got some other angles? Thanks!

[SPIDERMAN]

Wow. That looks a little tall for me. Got some other angles? Thanks!

Rob,
       They're only 2" higher than stock bars, but because Chubby' don't have the pull back that the stock RG bars do, the ones in the pic are pushed forward. Probably more than most people would since I tend to like what's referred to out here in Dago as " Gangsta " bars (the pushed forward look) You could take the same bars and pull them back to the rider 2" and they wouldn't be as tall. Just remember what I said about how to figure out what works for you and you should be fine. You really can't go by what someone else has, you've got to find you own comfort zone,

B B

[Robmay]

B B,

I got ya. That may be one way to go. Makes sense. Thank you!

[SBB]

These are not Chubby's but they are like Brian's in that they are 2" higher.
Did I like them? Couldn't get them sum beeches off fast enough.
Each to their own. I put the stock bars back on. Will post some pics after the SERG
gets home from the "SERGhospital".
"STOCK" the way all SERG's are!

 

[SPIDERMAN]

Chip.
       From the photo, it looks like those bars were pushed forward beyond their design tolerance on the drop (grip angle) They do look like they'd be miserable to ride, but I be willing to be you if you pulled them back 2" and adjusted the grips they'd feel better even though I think they'd still be wide. Those might be what Rob is looking for. You two need to get together.

B B

[SBB]

Chip.
       From the photo, it looks like those bars were pushed forward beyond their design tolerance on the drop (grip angle) They do look like they'd be miserable to ride, but I be willing to be you if you pulled them back 2" and adjusted the grips they'd feel better even though I think they'd still be wide. Those might be what Rob is looking for. You two need to get together.

B B

Here's another view!
Didn't get a "from the seat view" picture before the bars were replaced.
Someone may like them but no floating of my boat for me with these bars!


 

[porthole]

Here is a short video of my throttle.

I opened the throttle full and pulled the bars to the left. That is when the video starts, and I let go of the bars.

http://www.porthole2.com/porthole/Video/throttle_sticks.mpg

You might have to play it twice to smooth out the video.

[Eqcons]

For the 575 bars on the EG models I would say that about 50% of the time I end up using +2" throttle and idle cables. There must be some variance in the routing and or cable lenth from the factory. The consistant thing about Harleys is that they are inconsistant......

Looks like I'm one of the (un)lucky 50%, Jim - do you have the part number for the +2" cables?

Jim

[Pbody]

Looks like I'm one of the (un)lucky 50%, Jim - do you have the part number for the +2" cables?

Jim

Jim,
I just ordered all the parts for this upgrade on my CUSE2, including longer throttle/idle cables.  I didn't look at any aftermarket cable vendors, Goodridge, etc., but HD has a +3" as a next step up, for our model.  P/N 56778-04, for stainless steel braided throttle/idle set +3", is $106.28 at Zanotti.  I haven't received these parts yet, and I don't plan to start this project for a couple of weeks, so I can't provide any feedback on these cables yet.

I also recommend ordering a couple of the brass ferrules, P/N 56508-76.  When those things pop off and hit the floor, they sometimes sprout legs and disappear...

Charles...

[Midnight Rider]

Jim,
I just ordered all the parts for this upgrade on my CUSE2, including longer throttle/idle cables.  I didn't look at any aftermarket cable vendors, Goodridge, etc., but HD has a +3" as a next step up, for our model.  P/N 56778-04, for stainless steel braided throttle/idle set +3", is $106.28 at Zanotti.  I haven't received these parts yet, and I don't plan to start this project for a couple of weeks, so I can't provide any feedback on these cables yet.

I also recommend ordering a couple of the brass ferrules, P/N 56508-76.  When those things pop off and hit the floor, they sometimes sprout legs and disappear...

Charles...

Highly recommended!!!  There must be some trick to getting those little bastards back where they belong, but I must be too stupid to figure it out, or I'm not holding my mouth right.  Aggravating little chits...

[Eqcons]

Jim,
I just ordered all the parts for this upgrade on my CUSE2, including longer throttle/idle cables.  I didn't look at any aftermarket cable vendors, Goodridge, etc., but HD has a +3" as a next step up, for our model.  P/N 56778-04, for stainless steel braided throttle/idle set +3", is $106.28 at Zanotti.  I haven't received these parts yet, and I don't plan to start this project for a couple of weeks, so I can't provide any feedback on these cables yet.

I also recommend ordering a couple of the brass ferrules, P/N 56508-76.  When those things pop off and hit the floor, they sometimes sprout legs and disappear...

Charles...

Thanks Charles.  I though the 3" extra might be the only choice. What a pain!

Jim

[Eqcons]

Highly recommended!!!  There must be some trick to getting those little bastards back where they belong, but I must be too stupid to figure it out, or I'm not holding my mouth right.  Aggravating little chits...

Yup! Spent a happy 10 minutes on the floor looking for one this very evening! 

Jim

[SPIDERMAN]

I also recommend ordering a couple of the brass ferrules, P/N 56508-76.  When those things pop off and hit the floor, they sometimes sprout legs and disappear...

Charles...

Here's a couple of ideas. First, put a big white fluffy towel on the floor beneath where you're working. They ferrules won't bounce when they hit the towel. White is best since the brass will stand out against it when you drop one. Of course the trick to changing throttle cables is to have the adjusters as loose as they'll go and then tighten them up once you've got the switch covers in place. I don't know how many times I've watched friends struggle with this chore with the adjusters fully tightened. Also, a pair of bent needle nose pliers is a big help in holding the ferrule on the cable end and sliding it into the slot on the throttle grip.

B B

[Pbody]

Here's a couple of ideas. First, put a big white fluffy towel on the floor beneath where you're working. They ferrules won't bounce when they hit the towel. White is best since the brass will stand out against it when you drop one. Of course the trick to changing throttle cables is to have the adjusters as loose as they'll go and then tighten them up once you've got the switch covers in place. I don't know how many times I've watched friends struggle with this chore with the adjusters fully tightened. Also, a pair of bent needle nose pliers is a big help in holding the ferrule on the cable end and sliding it into the slot on the throttle grip.

B B

Thanks for the tips SPIDERMAN...  I don't usually think of laying a towel down BEFORE I start... 

Just a good reminder to observe the Rule of the 7 P's...
Charles...